The Mahogany Stylist

Inspirational Wednesday - 2-15-2012

2012-02-15T09:09:00.000-08:00

Not much blogging or sewing going on. I have a mid-term on Thursday. In the meantime, here is a little inspiration from my Flickr contacts. Enjoy!

Celebrating the Life of Whitney Houston 1963-2012

2012-02-13T09:49:00.000-08:00

On Saturday evening my daughter told me that Whitney Houston died. I screamed! So today I'm celebrating the life of the very gifted Ms. Whitney Houston.

The Many Lines of My Jacket - HCC Stripe Challenge - Part III

2012-02-07T09:18:00.000-08:00

Happy Tuesday!

The Haute Couture Club - Stripe Challenge was held on Saturday. There were over a dozen participants. The ladies came up with some interesting outfits. (All will be showcased at the May fashion show. wink, wink)

But as for me, I used McCall 6294. This my garment serves a dual purpose: HCC Stripe Challenge and the Palmer/Pletsche contest.

My review:

Pattern Description:

MISSES' LINED JACKETS IN THREE LENGTHS: Jackets A, B, C have princess seams, back yoke, two-piece self-faced lapels with collar band, sleeves in two lengths with elbow dart, hook and eye closure; jacket A has long sleeves; jacket B has three-quarter length sleeves, unlined patch pockets; jacket C has long sleeves, unlined patch pockets with top stitching.

Pattern Sizing: 4 through 18. I started out with a size 16; but ended up scaling it down to a 14 with my usual adjustments.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it look like the basic design as illustrated on the envelope.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Easy.., No problems.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The design of the collar and the back yoke. No dislikes.

Fabric Used: The challenge organizers picked this beautiful striped fabric and made it available for members at a previous club meeting. Not sure of the fabric content, but I think it does have some rayon in it. It very easy to work with; sews and presses well. I only bought two yards; and after playing tetris with the pattern pieces on the fabric, I finally admitted I didn't have enough fabric for the entire jacket. So the under collar and the front facing is a stretch woven woolen (Rainbow). My DD gave me about 2/3 yd for my sleeves. The lining is china silk.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Before cutting into the fabric, I made several adjustments to the pattern:

- FBA – I omitted the small dart in the front
- Sway back adjustment - Then I added that same amount to the bottom of the back and side back pattern. Sometimes when I make the sway back adjustment the jacket/dress is slightly higher in those sections
- Prominent shoulder blade adjustment

Design changes:

- The back yoke was cut along the center. I added 5/8” seam allowance to one of the halves along the cut edge. This created the chevron effect in the back of the jacket.
- Added piping to the shoulder, front, and back seams. The pattern of the stripe was uneven so I wanted to break up the stripe a little bit.
- Contrasting fabric for the front facing and under collar. I had a limited amount of fabric.
- Lined the pockets. I like a clean finish.

For the upcoming fashion show, I will make M5818 (TNT) pants and a simple t-shirt (ivory) to complete the outfit. Of course the ensemble with include the Simplicity purse I had a few months ago.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I don't think I will sew it again, but you never know. I have a few more jackets I'd like to try. But I do recommend it to others.

Conclusion:

This was a great pattern to use for the stripe challenge. It allowed me to create an interesting garment for the Palmer/Pletsche contest as well.

Happy Sewing!
C

Gloves - A New Exploration

2012-02-05T16:56:00.000-08:00

If you remember last September I participated in a purse making workshop taught by John Koch. Well, John is a jack of all trades. This winter John has offered glove and flower making workshops. I've bought at least four glove patterns, but was afraid to try them. John Koch dispelled all my fears when I attended his January glove making workshop. It was a day long hands on workshop were sewists had an opportunity to learn to make gloves.

When I came through the studio door, John's display table had dozens of beautifully, hand created gloves on exhibit. Many designs I would have never thought of. Each glove is entirely hand sewn using embroidery floss.

After the lecture, we were able to pick out fabric and thread for our very own pair of gloves. For each participant, a basic instruction book and patterns were provided. Getting started, John measured our hands using pre-made, pre-sized muslin gloves. It was an incredible experience. We learnied about the various parts of the glove and how each part may need to be sized differently based on your hand and the style of glove you want to make.

The basic parts of a glove are the trank, thumb, and fourchettes. Each part can be reshaped and sized accordingly. My first pair of gloves is nothing fancy, but is the starting point of making beautiful gloves. This pair is standard with kind of blunt finger tips, size MM (medium trank and thumb). Next pair, I need to extend the thumb about 1/4" for a slightly better fit. I can also choose to get a little fancy, like the ones John made. Not too much too fast. A little at a time.

I'm certainly glad I was able to take advantage of the glove making class. And if you are in the Chicago land area and have four to six people who want to learn how to make them, Give John and call to schedule a workshop.

Janice - Thanks for the pictures. (I'm always forgetting my camera.)

Happy Sewing!
C

Mixed Materials - Burda Style 7303

2012-02-03T11:43:00.000-08:00

Today, is the first time in a long time I was able to get some blogging done. I've missed going to my favorite places for inspiration and motivation. So I am grateful to have a few hours to post about a few projects that were finished in January.

This first one, I contemplated throwing in the trash. I had a few fitting issues and construction woes. Then on Monday, I decided to remove the hem of the jacket, for the third time, hoping to get it to lie flat. It's better, but still not 100 percent. I think part of the problem may be due to the loose weave of the fabric and how I attached the lining to the armhole of the sleeve. That's my best guess.

So on Wednesday, I decided to wear my trendy, mix media outfit to work. Here's how I wore it.

Burda Style 7303 - complete review:

Pattern Description: Collarless princess seam jacket with pocket welts and sleeve variation. An almost A-line skirt with center seam option.

Pattern Sizing: This pattern comes in sizes 10 to 20. I used a size 14 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? It does look like the photo minus the trimming.

Were the instructions easy to follow? There is nothing confusing in them. I don't like attaching the interfacing to the lining. I skipped that. It didn't really need it; the skirt is faux leather. I did, however, add seam binding to the waist of the skirt for stability.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the classic style of the suit, and I thought it would be a good pattern to try my first mix materials garment. No serious dislikes.

Fabric Used: remnant boucle from Vogue, faux leather from Hancock's, red polyester lining from my stash, and black polyester charmeuse from Rainbow Fabrics.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Of course I made my usual adjustments: FBA, prominent shoulder blades, and lengthened the skirt a few inches. I also took most of the ease out of the sleeve cap, but later realized I should have left it in. The faux leather does not have much give and is snug around the upper part of my arm.

My design changes include:
- faux leather sleeves and pocket welts for the jacket.
- exposed zipper on the skirt.
- I like the front center open with the front facing folder down. It's the opposite of how the model is wearing the jacket.

Mishap #1 - While trying to get that final press before wearing the outfit, I touched to faux leather welt with the iron. So it lost some of the shine and "plastic" too. lol

Mishap #2 - I used a pressing clothe, but there are some areas of the faux leather that lost it's shaping and some luster. I probably had the iron too hot. So this is a point that you should consider if you plan to make a faux leather garment.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Not sure. I have many patterns to try. But I do recommend it.

Conclusion: Although I had a few mishaps with this sewing project, I received a lot of compliments. It's not hard to sew. And I think the jacket is good for making a Chanel style jacket.

All photos can be found here.

Preoccupied! January 2012

2012-01-23T22:00:00.000-08:00

Oooh! Too much of everything else is keeping me from sewing and blogging. Grrr! What is my preoccupation? Here's the short version:

Training - Business Process Analysis - Leadership Program - Six Sigma (the nerd in me, loves this kind of stuff.)
School - Taking a class in Statistics (more fun)
Work - It's picking up again. Thank God!
Most recently, addressing some health issues (not so fun)
ASG meeting - good program on silk
Finished Burda 7303 outfit (not too pleased with the outcome)
Working on my stripe challenge garment

Hopefully, this weekend I will get some sewing and blogging done.

Happy Sewing!
C

McCall's 6163 - The First Cut - My Wearable Muslin

2012-01-11T16:35:00.000-08:00

McCalls 6163

There another dress that was inspired by you. After seeing so many beautiful renditions of this dress on Pattern Review, I decided to give this dress a try.

This is my wearable muslin. After finishing the dress, I noted several things to change in the next version. The first is to use a better knit fabric. At first glance, I thought this knit was of fairly decent quality, but as I sewed and handled the fabric, I discovered it didn't have the texture or the durability that I assumed when I purchased it from the store. So I'm calling this my wearable muslin.

McCall's describes this dress pattern as a misses' and women's dresses and sash: Close fitting, above mid-knee length dresses A, B, C, D have mock wrap front, gathered at left side, collar, collar band, raglan sleeves, side zipper and stitched hems: dress A has below elbow length sleeves gathered with elastic; dress B has short sleeves and sash; dresses C, D have long gathered sleeves with cuff; dress D has sash with optional purchased tassels.

Sizing from 8 to 24W; I used 14 with modifications.

My dress looks like the dress worn by the model minus the belt. The instructions were typical and easy to follow. I used a knit jersey from Vogue.

My likes:

mock wrap dress - flattering

gathering or ruching at the side
full, gathered sleeve with cuff
loop closure on the cuff
center back seam for better fitting
belt option with tassel detail

My dislikes:

As pictured on the model, the cuff is wide. Note how it falls on the models hand. It's big enough to put your hand through the opening without unbuttoning the cuff. I like the cuff to fit closer to my wrist. Next time I will make the cuff smaller.
The vamp is a little low for my taste. I will raise it about a inch and half next time.
The collar band is too narrow for me. I'll add 1/4 inch to the next version.
The zipper is not necessary. I should be omitted from the design/instructions. I omitted it and was able to put the dress on without a struggle.

These changes (dislikes) will make the dress ideal for me.

I made a FBA following Ann's (Gorgeous Things) tutorial. This dress is short. I added two inches, could have added a few more. I also added elastic to the neck line to ensure a snug fit across the upper chest area. Sway back and a small shoulder blade adjustment as usual.

Like I said earlier, I will make this one again. It's a good one to try. Definitely a winner. It wears easy and not difficult to make.

Thoughts on Sewing for the Year 2012

2012-01-10T12:00:00.000-08:00

Quality - that's my main goal. Yes, to get as close to perfect as possible.

Every year I talk about quality vs. quantity. Am I achieving this goal? Sometimes. And other times, I get in a hurry to finish. That's when the quality diminishes. It's little things only recognized by me.

Much of my improved skill in sewing can be attributed to my fellow sewing, blogging friends who show a technique or express a thought about how to better execute construction techniques. So I'm constantly learning from you and other sewing related resources.

The List:

Reduce the fabric stash. Use what I already have to get it to a manageable level. I'm starting to forget what's already in the fabric collection.
Sew more Burda. I have years of magazines and patterns to chose from.
Sew Rhonda Buss designs. She designed several patterns last year that I want to try.
Spend some time sewing with my mom. Last year I thought about this, but didn't do it. She sews at her house and I at mine. We need to have a few meet ups.
Learn and try a few more sewing techniques. I like hand sewing and would like to try a few more couture techniques.
Make a Chanel jacket.
Make a Cadena inspired outfit.
Learn to make gloves (January 25th).

That's the short of it. We're already ten days into the new year. It's pass time to get it started.

Simplicity Deluxe Bias and Piping Machine in Review

2012-01-09T07:00:00.000-08:00

Simplicity has some nifty small machines designed to make custom trim to add to your sewn creations. I tested the Deluxe Bias Tape and Piping machine. And this little baby is able to crank out beautiful custom made single fold bias tape and piping in a fraction of the time it takes to make them the old-fashioned way.

Piping is a versatile embellishment that is easy to use. You may add it to the edge of a collar, pocket, hem, sleeve. And you can sew it between seams. It's also great for finishing home dec projects.
Single fold bias tape is great for neckline and armhole curves. I even use it for hems in dresses and slacks.

It took me a while to get the hang of it. I read the instructions, set up the machine and tried my hand at making piping. I wasn't getting the quality piping that I expected. So I went over the instructions again to discover I didn't make sure the heating element was properly fitted to the machine. Once I resolved the issue, it worked like a charm.

The machine comes with all the tools to create bias tape and piping. You'll need to buy the adhesive and cording. Simplicity carries a variety of tools to help make using the machine a smooth process, but I was able to get nice piping and bias tape without them. You can also purchase tips of different sizes for various width and core sizes.

Single Fold Bias Tape

Piping

What I like about this machine:

It is compact, easy to assemble and easy to store.
Once assembled a push of a button starts the process and produces perfect bias tape and piping.
You can make your own custom piping and tape in complementary or contrasting fabric.

What I didn't like about it:

No adhesive was included with the machine for make the piping. You had to go out and purchase that separately.
I wish the spindle for the adhesive had a cap or stay to stabilize it. The tape fell off the spindle a few times while making the piping.

This is a great small machine to have in your sew room. It's easy to assemble and produces perfect piping and bias tape.

Year in Review - 2011

2012-01-04T05:35:00.000-08:00

I pondered and pondered; what angle could I use to make my year end review interesting? Nothing came to mind. So I looked at my previous reviews for help. What I noticed is that all of them included a tally of projects I finished. I noticed a steady increase in the number of things sewn. In 2011 I sewed about 65% for myself. Whereas in 2009 its about half for me and half for others.

Does this imply my generosity is growing thin? Or is sewing for others becoming a bit too stressful? Or has teaching sewing replaced the client projects that I normally take in? Well it's a little of everything. When I'm too stressed, it's harder to control my blood pressure. Clients can be very demanding. Often, more emotionally, intellectually, and chronologically draining than my service fee could ever hope to cover. So I'm not accepting too many client projects. Secondly, teaching sewing has filled much of the time that I would use for client projects. There are only so many hours in the day. Finally, I get the most pleasure out of sewing for myself. There is no stress; I sew as I please. If I lose interest in a project, I can lay it aside and work on something else. There are no deadlines, no challenges other than the ones I impose on myself. It's the best.

By comparison, this year is my best year so far. It's been wonderful. I've improved in fitting patterns and garments. I've challenged myself to try some different techniques. In September I became a member of Chicago chapter of ASG. Wendy Grossman invited me to do a presentation on wardrobe building (fun). Sarah McFarland (Threads magazine) contacted me regarding my LBD, hounds tooth in the Reader's Closet (published in the March 2012 issue). Still teaching sewing and still a member of the Haute Couture Club of Chicago. This is a phenomenal group of friends, who have become a great source of inspiration and motivation. I've become very good friends with Sandra Young, Rhonda Buss, and Patricia Ferguson just to name a few. Fashion Show (HCC) weekend I meet some fabulous designers/sewists: Ann (Gorgeous Fabrics), Liana (Sew Intriguing), Kay (Sewing Lawyer), and Nancy (SewWest). Wonderful meet up. Then at the Pattern Review 10th Anniversary - Chicago, there was a sea of designers/sewists that I was able to meet, talk and laugh with over the PR weekend. Fabulous meet up. After meeting, Andrea (Knit-Knac) at Pattern Review, we became good friends talking on the phone at least four times a week. Then, we started having three way calls with Sheila Powell (Sheilaz-CTK). We have the best conversations that last for hours (but it seems like only a few minutes). Late fall Simplicity asked if I would review one of their small machines and be a feature sewist on Facebook Simplicity (fun). It's been a pleasure working with them. This has been a wonderful year of sewing and sewing related activities.

Last but certainly not least, I am happy that you continue to visit my blog and kindly leave comments. That is so appreciated.

So that being all said, here are several of my favorite things sewn in 2011. Heavy pictures:

Coming later this week, some thoughts on upcoming projects and activities.

Happy Sewing!
C

M5860 Jacket Paired with Vogue 7608-A

2012-01-03T00:00:00.000-08:00

I finished up M5860 in time to wear for a girls night out during the holiday week. A jean jacket that is figure flatting and stylish. I like everything about it:

patch pockets with flaps
top stitching
longer length (makes me look slim)
fitting along the sides

Pattern Description: Misses' Unlined Jacket: Fitted, unlined jacket has princess seams, patch pockets with flaps, collar and collar band, long, two-piece sleeves with cuffs and optional jewel stone embellishments.

Pattern Sizing: 8-22; I used 14 with my usual modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions were great; nothing confusing. Nice pro tips including for resizing the under collar and tip on how to reposition the pocket after making a full bust adjustment.

One of the things I plan to do better in 2012 is to take a serious look at the layout and include comments on that in my review.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Like above at the start of the review.

Fabric Used: I used a stretch woven twill fabric from Vogue. The stretch in the fabric made it easy to "curve" the pocket and flap into position after making a full bust adjustment. Great fabric to work with for this project. Stretch woven is not recommended, but it is a good choice. Especially with a FBA.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I made my usual adjustments, which are here. Additionally, I top-stitched around the flap and the pockets twice. I used smaller buttons on the sleeves in an effort to use what I ready had on hand.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I think I will make at least one more version of this jacket for the summer (white or beige).

Conclusion: This is a great slimming jacket pattern. Try it.

I made matching jeans using Vogue 7608. This time I made view A, flare leg pants. I changed the design on the pockets and exclude the design on the pant leg. Now I have a few pairs of jeans for the weekend.

Happy Sewing!

Laced in Butterick 5672 - The Last Dress Made in 2011

2012-01-01T23:38:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year!

I can't believe how quickly time flies. Over the next few weeks, I will review my last projects made in 2011. During the holiday break, I tried to spend as much time as possible sewing and setting sewing goals for 2012. .., 2012 that's sounds funny. This month I will post my favorite garment made during 2011. It's been a great year.

Anyway, I'm still working off my fall trend list of things to make. Lace is a favorite of mine. But how many lace dresses can a lady have? The last lace dress made, 2008, which I hate to admit is a little snug. Good thing is, I can whip a new dress up in a few hours. And this new dress was a easy one to make.

I used Butterick 5672 to create this dress. It's described as close-fitting, lined dress that has left side invisible zipper, left dart and left pleats from drape effect. The pattern is available in sizes 8 through 22. JoAnn only had size FF when I went to buy it. I purchased it anyway cutting it at size 16. I ended up scaling it down a bit as it was too big for me. I normally start with a 14.

Butterick's photo and drawing match my finished version of this dress. And the instruction were easy to follow.

The reviews on Pattern Review and in blogland encouraged me to try this one out. It suits me. The drapery and pleats help define my waist a bit. The classic look is perfect for me. And it was super easy to make.

I really like how this pattern comes together. It's important to note, I didn't need to insert a side zipper to get into the dress. Could be a combination of the stretch in the fabric and the width of the neck. It's large enough to get into the dress with no problem at all.

This lovely lace knit was purchased, where else, Vogue on Roosevelt Rd. It was about 45" width and only about 2 1/2 left on the bolt. I bought all of it. Fitting all of the pattern pieces as designed was a challenge. I played Tetris for a while before coming to the conclusion to cut the back skirt in two pieces with a center back seam and to shorten the sleeves by a inch or two. It worked out fine.

Butterick recommended moderate stretch knits only. This fabric had a lot of stretch. I want to say about 40 percent. I did follow the recommendation for the lining, tricot. Second note of caution: The drapery/pleats causes the hem to hang slightly uneven. And because the skirt is cut on the bias, I waited 24 hours before hemming.

I made my usual adjustments plus the changes above. The illustrations can be found on Flickr.

I don't think I will sew it again for myself. ..,many dress patterns in the collection I want to try. But I do recommend it to my fellow sewists. It's a great look.

I really like the styling and fit of this dress. It enabled me to fulfill one of the fall 2011 fashion trends.

Adding a Little Shine with Simplicity 2149

2011-12-29T06:00:00.000-08:00

This is the season for adding a little sparkle and shine to your wardrobe. So I paired Simplicity 2149 with some semi-shiny, striped fabric to create a festive jacket for my daughter.

Her work uniform (Macy's) is black attire. She wanted something festive to wear on Christmas Eve, which is a big work day for her. This jacket was perfect. The sparkle in the trim and the shiny fabric add a bit of pizazz to a what could be considered a boring black work uniform.

I made a combination of View D and E. A misses' jacket with 3/4 length sleeve Princess style front with pocket flaps and trim. My jacket pretty much follows the design line for view D with the trim of view E.

This pattern comes in sizes 6 to 22 and includes separate pattern pieces for A, B, C, and D cup sizes. I like this pattern because of the sleeve variation. And it can be used to make an overcoat (views A & B with collar). My daughter likes those views as well. My only dislike with the pattern is that the jacket/coats are unlined.

The fabric came from Vogue Fabrics. It's polyester. I struggled to get a deceit press on this jacket. A visit to the dry cleaners will remove the remaining stubborn wrinkles.

The instructions were typical for sewing this type of jacket. I didn't encounter any problems with them.

There are only a few alterations and design changes. Typically, I make a pigeon chest and sway back adjustments for my daughter. This time I skipped them. The front is cut size 12 and the back size 10 across the upper back. When joining the front and back pieces, I trued up the seams as needed. At the mid to lower back area I adjusted seam allowances where needed. Basically, I made the fitting adjustments as I sewed.

For the design changes: I omitted the buttons on the trim and the back tab. I also lined the jacket. To make the lining, I used pattern pieces for the shell omitting the front and back facings. I cut four of the front piece. Two for the jacket and two for the facing. Both facing pieces were interfaced. The lining was attached using the bag method. Interfacing the upper sleeve and back jacket would add stability to the entire neck area. I didn't think of that until I was finished with the jacket.

I will probably make this pattern one more time for my daughter. She wants view A. And I would recommend it to others sewists including beginners. If you are like me and prefer a lining that is easy to do. Just use the jacket pieces instead of the facings.

This is a fairly deceit pattern to sew. All levels should be able to make it with no problems. So, if this is your style, try it.

Haute Couture Club - Stripe Challenge It's In the Bag Part II

2011-12-27T19:38:00.000-08:00

Happy Holidays!

Now that the hustle and bustle of the holiday is over, I have time to sew and blog. About fifteen minutes ago, I finished my matching clutch for the Haute Couture Club Stripe Challenge outfit. (My baby sis was over when I made the purse so I asked her to model it for me.)

I used Cynthia Rowley's Simplicity 2350 pattern, view C.

Pattern Description: It includes patterns for three different bags: bucket, tote, and clutch. All have can be made with decorative trim, which you can purchase on the simplicity website.

Front of Bag

My finished clutch matches the design illustrated on the envelope. I applied the decorative trim slightly different, but the basic design is the same. The instructions were a piece of cake. Step 1 states to pin the novelty trims, I used stitch witchery to hold the trim in place. Once all trim was applied to the bag, I sewed each strip to the bag. I couldn't find the "right" cord ends. So I used two hair ornaments that I bought from a local beauty supply store. This bag is really easy. It took less than two hours to make.

Back of Bag

I like all three bags. Adding decorative trim makes it easy to make a one of a kind bag. And I recommend that you give them a try.

Of course, I used the stripe challenge fabric for this. It's a rayon, wool, poly blend. There is enough left to make an interesting outfit for the fashion show. More on that later.

Inside Bag

The quick and easy clutch is an attractive bag to add to your wardrobe. Try it.

Parting Shot: My little black dress made the March issue of Threads magazine. What an honor.

Happy Sewing!
C

Creative Stripes - Haute Couture Challenge

2011-12-20T09:18:00.000-08:00

One of the big trends of 2012 is stripes. Everything is striped: dresses, suits, tops, pants, handbags and shoes. Truth be told, every season stripes show up on the runway. But this season they are front and center in many of the designer collections.

No wonder the Haute Couture Club of Chicago included a Stripe Challenge for this 2012 Fashion show. This beautiful fabric was selected for the upcoming challenge. Each participating member purchased yardage to create a garment for the challenge. Now I am faced with the opportunity to create something beautiful to showcase in the fashion show.

Katherine Hepburn with Spencer Tracey

Of course, I turned to the fashion blogs and fashion sites to help stir up the creative juices. Then to top that off, Turner Classic Movies featured four films starring Katherine Hepburn and Cary Grant. Guess what? Ms. Hepburn sported several striped outfits. So I have several idea to help me come up with an eye-catching striped outfit.

Just in case, you want to follow along here are some inspirational garments made by some of my favorite designers.

10 Crosby Derek Lam

Thakoon

Tracy Reese

10 Crosby Derek Lam

Tracy Reese

Michael Kors

10 Crosby Derek Lam

Tracy Reese

Happy Sewing!

Faux leather/shearling and Simplicity 4356 - A Perfect Match

2011-12-17T10:23:00.000-08:00

I've wanted a faux leather/shearling coat for over two years. I thought about making Vogue 1198, but that wasn't quite the look I was thinking when I first envisioned a faux leather/shearling as part of my winter arsenal. So I started researching online stores and found a few that I liked at Nordstorm. Once I found the inspiration coat, purchasing the fabric was easy. Vogue (Roosevelt Rd.) has a large section of faux suede and faux leather shearling many colors. I went with this rugged texture.

I didn't necessarily want to replicate the Nordstorm coat, but to find a silhouette that match the pattern I was thinking about using hoping the design would be a good match for the fabric.

This morning I woke up to snow which I could do without for another twelve months. The blizzard of 2011 was enough to last me a lonnnngg time.

Simplicity 4356

There is not a lot of descriptive information on the pattern envelope. But I described this view as a shawl collar princess seam coat with patch pocket and cuffs. It comes in sizes 6 - 22. This pattern has been around for a while. I used it to make view C for my sister in 2006.

My coat has the basic silhouette of View A, but I made many changes to create the look I was going for. Most of the instruction were skipped because of way I wanted to use the fabric. But the basic construction method were the same as described in the sewing directions. This pattern is good basic shawl collar jacket/coat pattern. It's a keeper. I didn't have any dislike for it.

My changes were many -

I omitted the front facing and the use of the block for binding.
The pocket were finished by turning the shearling to the right side of it; then stitched. Next, I attached the pocket to the coat with the raw edges exposed.
To finish the center back of the collar, I following the same instructions for the cuff on the sleeve (#11 and #12).
I made a FBA and prominent shoulder blade adjustment. The fabric has almost zero give. So I cut the coat one size bigger to make sure I had enough wearing ease.
I eliminated most of the ease of the sleeve cap because of the bulky,stiff fabric.
None of the raw edges were finished.
Added about an inch to the center front; made buttonholes.
I lengthen the coat about two inches.

I can't say that I will or will not sew the coat again. I do like the purse and may make it using the leftover fabric from this project. This pattern is versatile and can be used as the basis for designing your own coat or jacket. I recommend it to other sewists. It not a difficult coat to sew. And the instructions for adding the binding are not hard.

More pictures can be found here on Flickr.

This is a fairly easy pattern to sew that will produce good result. I love my new coat and I will get a lot of use out of it. I'm wearing a Butterick top made years before I started blogging and Simplicity pants 2860 made October 2008

Another Burda 7576 Skirt for DD

2011-12-16T15:36:00.000-08:00

The silhouette of this skirt is very flattering. It's long and slick; it tapers as it approaching the hemline. The attractive center front seam instantly takes 10 pounds off your figure.

No doubt flattering on any figure. The skirt definitely works for DD. Here she paired it with a fitted RTW jacket.

This is part of her work gear.

DD found the fabric at Vogue's. She has a great eye for nice fabric.

Happy Sewing!
C

Faux Suede, Faux Leather - New Look 6067

2011-12-11T20:13:00.000-08:00

Saturday evening I finished New Look 6067, View D with belt. I made a few trips to the store in search of a fabric to make this dress. But after not finding that "perfect fabric", I turned to my forever growing collection of fabric. I decided on a faux suede. It's been in the collection for several years and no better time like the present to reduce the stash. It's sort of a taupe, camel-ish in color. The faux leather is leftover from a previous project.

This dress is described as: Misses' pleated dress in two lengths with sleeve and belt variations. It comes in sizes 6 to 16.

My dress looks much like the drawing on the envelope. My belt does not exactly meet in the front like the drawing, but the model's does either. If I make the belt again, I'll lengthen it so it does meet. View C appear to have a slim keyhole at the neckline. I wanted that same design element. So I modified my dress to include it. There were no instructions for that neckline variation. It's easy to do. Just sew from the top down about 1 1/2 inches stop, then start sewing again at the notch to the end of the CF. Finish the front facing the same way. After attaching the facing to the neck, sew the edges of the opening to the facing on either side make finish the keyhole.

The instructions were typical. Nothing difficult or confusing. However, I didn't like how the zipper is finished (#15). By the way, it calls for an invisible zipper, I used a standard one. I am so trying to reduce the collection, notion included. So I used what I had on hand.

The pleating on the bodice is what attracted me to this pattern. I made a few changes, some I've already mentioned. Others changes: lengthen skirt about three inches, omitted the lining, FBA, sway back, prominent shoulder blades.

The piping for the belt is made from the same fabric used for the dress. It's not difficult to make. It just takes a little time. I want to test using the Simplicity Bias and Piping machine, but I didn't have the fusible tape. So I had to make it the traditional way. Later expect a review on the machine. It's sure to speed up the time it takes to make custom piping.

This is a nice dress to have in your wardrobe. It sews up quickly and has some nice design elements. I probably won't sew it again for myself. I have about 500 dress patterns to try. Seriously, 500. But if you like this style, I do recommend that you try it.

Happy Sewing!
C

To Muslin or Not To Muslin - Fitting New Look 6067

2011-12-08T09:00:00.000-08:00

To Muslin or Not to Muslin. That is the question...,

While working on a muslin fitting for a client who sewed, she said to me, "When I sewed for people I never made muslins. I just went by the measurements." My reply, "Oh no, I have to make a muslin to get the fitting right. I'm afraid not to."

There are great benefits to making a muslin first especially when the garment is for someone other than yourself.

better fitting of the garment
helps avoid re-dos of garment
Saves money and time on fitting mistakes made

Now as for myself and DD, I don't always make a muslin. Our basic adjustments have been pretty much worked out using the big four patterns. I have a few patterns that I use as slopers that help make adjustment easier on new patterns. As a safety precaution, I cut one inch side seam allowances. This adjustment gives me a little more room to make changes if needed.

My biggest challenge is fitting my torso due to my fuller bust and prominent should blades. Both changes are made in the same reign of my upper body front and back respectively. But when it comes to the upper chest, neck, length of shoulder (from neck to ball of my arm) and my waist, there are almost no change needed from the pattern size 14.

One of my current projects is New Look 6067. Cute dress with pleating at the center front just below the bust area. This pattern has no bust or waist darts. My initial reaction was cute but I'll take a pass. My second thought, but I like it. I'll give it a try anyway.

Challenge: Full bust adjustment in the absence of a waist and bust dart (woven fabric).

So this project required me to make a muslin to test my solution for a FBA adjustment.

First the pattern: I slashed the pattern in the center of each pleat pivoting a few inches away from the armhole. Each slashed is spread increasing with width of the pleats and the bust area. Total amount of spread in the bust area is about 1 1/4 inch.

My typical prominent shoulder blade and swayback adjustments are shown below.

Second the muslin: Sorry it's on Rochelle and not me. But you'll get the idea of how it will fit. It looks like there is too much fabric around the armhole and side area. It's just that way on Rochelle. It fits better on me. When I tried on the muslin, I noticed the waist was a little high. I will add about an inch to the length of the bodice to correct that.

I hope this information is helpful. Now my question to you: Do you make a muslin? If not, what's your process for getting the right fit?

Happy Sewing!
C

McCall 6400 - Two More Tops; It's a Winner

2011-12-06T18:00:00.000-08:00

Yes, McCall 6400 is a Winner! I made two more of these quick and easy tops. Both made in less than two hours.

Fabric purchased at JoAnn's Thanksgiving sale. Each piece cost about $7.50. Great deal on pretty knit fabric.

I finished the neckline the same as the first, which was reviewed here..

Need I say more. This is a great little trendy top that sews up quickly with the least amount of effort.

Happy Sewing!
Cennetta

Hot Patterns Fringe Scarf-T - Another Easy Knit Top

2011-12-05T12:00:00.000-08:00

Hot Patterns Fringe Scarf-T

It's when awhile since my last post. I've had very little time to blog. So I chose to read a few blogs instead of writing a few posts of my own. I hope everyone is enjoying the holiday season. For over a week I have been suffering with whatever virus that's going around. I couldn't sew even though I wanted to. For two days all I could do was drink plenty of liquids and lie in bed.

Anyway, I have several knit tops to show and review. The first set was made with a free pattern from Hot Patterns, the Fringe Festival Scarf-T. If you remember during the summer, this was a free pattern available on the Fabric.com website.

This top goes together with no problem. Very simple and easy to sew. There are a few things I did differently. Here is the review:

This top is a pull-over, cap sleeved T-shirt that has center front & back seams, a curved hemline and a self fabric scarf tie at the V neckline. Fringe the ends of the scarf for a funky look, and add decorative stitches to the center front & back seams.

The sizes range from 6 to 26. This top can be worn be women of all shapes and sizes given a few adjustments. My tops did look like the drawing on page one of the pattern. It is a slightly longer than I expected it to be.

The instructions were okay. How to finish the section were the scarf meets in the center front were a little unclear. I decided to change the finishing of the neckline. The instructions tell you to press the seam allowance forwards the body of the top. Then stitch it in place. I didn't want stitching to show around the neckline. So I only turned down and stitched the center front. And at the center back, I folded the scarf inside as if I were going to attach the raw edge to the inside of the neckline only stitching about a 1/2 inch on either side of the center back seam to keep the scarf from bunching up around the neck.

After reviewing and cutting the pattern, I changed my mind about making the fringe for fear of making a mess trying to transfer the markings onto the fabric. But I quickly changed my mind again to give it a try. With the end of the scarf placed on the cutting mat, I used a rotary cutter to cut 4 inch fringes on each end of the scarf. This was achieved by slowly cutting them with no marking.

I omitted the decorative stitching at the center front and back. The print of the first top was speaking loud enough. And the second one looks good without it. I also made my usually sway back and prominent shoulder blade adjustments. No FBA. I just cut a size 16 through the bust area. The rest was cut at size 14.

What I like about this pattern was the fringe scarf. And I thought it would work well under a blazer. Plus you have the option of adding sleeves to it for a winter ready version. You can easily extend the cap sleeves or you can use the sleeve of M6241. My next version will have long sleeves.

The multi-color fabric (Vogue) is the leftover from a failed knit dress project from two years ago. And the gray knit (Hancock) is leftover from a drape neck cardigan made earlier this year.

In conclusion, this is a nice, easy top to make that is a great wardrobe builder. If you downloaded this pattern, give it a try.

Banana Puddin'

2011-11-26T04:00:00.000-08:00

Updated November 26th. I omitted a few necessary steps. Updates are in red. Sorry folks.

One of my favorite deserts is homemade Banana Puddin'. My mom makes the best. The custard is rich and creamy. Mmmm Mmmm good. My family takes an annual vacation to Wisconsin Dells, where we just chil-lax with the kiddies. We do everything from water parks, nature walks, sight seeing, and cook. Every meal except pizza night. This (Aug) year we asked my mom to make her famous recipe: Banana Puddin'. Neither of us knew how. For shame, for shame.

Thanksgiving is here, but it's not too late to add Banana Puddin' to your menu. Here goes:

You need about this much of the following ingredients to serve 20 people:

1 cup sugar
Vanilla extract to your taste (about 1 tsp)
6 eggs, separated
2 cups milk

1/4 cup flour

NILLA Wafers
5 bananas, sliced

Be warned these measurements are a guesstimate. My mom does not use measuring equipment. She makes statements like, "About this much." "Add sugar and vanilla to your taste." So you know there is a lot of tasting as you go.

Preheat oven to 350 Degrees.

Cookies and Bananas in the dish:

Arrange sliced banana and nilla wafers in baking dish like shown above. My mom sprinkles a little sugar over the banana slices as she layers.

Next, You need six eggs. Separate the egg whites and yokes into two containers.

In a small pot, combine about whole milk, vanilla extract, egg yokes (remember the above is a estimate. It's to your taste of sweetness and richness.) Combine flour and about 3 tablespoons of sugar in a separate bowl. Then add the mixture to the milk. This will become the rich custard after cooking. Over a low flame, stir the mixture until it thicken. You may need to add more sugar during the thickening process. Taste mixture to determine your desired sweetness. This process takes about 10 to 12 or until thickened.

Now for the egg white. This will become the meringue for the banana pudding. You have to beat it until it is white and fluffy. Tip: Add a dash of salt to speed up the process. This is done by hand, but if you use a mixer set it to high speed.

Pour pudding/custard over the cookies and banana slices.

Now add the meringue to the top. Then place in a preheated oven of 375 degrees. Bake until meringue is slightly browned.

Bake until meringue is slightly browned. (15 to 20 mins.) Now that is one delicious Banana Pudding. Enjoy.

Happy Thanksgiving!
Cennetta

McCall's 6400 - Easiest Knit Top Fall 2011 (with Simplicity 2315)

2011-11-22T09:00:00.000-08:00

Mc Calls 6400

This is the easiest knit top of the Fall season. Now, I wonder what took me so long to make it up. It's been on the short list since I purchased the pattern in September. The description is as simple as it is to make: Misses' tops: close fitting. That it.

It took me only an hour to make. It comes in two size combinations. I used Y size M adding a little width across the bust area. No other alterations made.

I think my version looks as it was intended, view C. The instructions were super easy. Making this top is akin to sewing the ever popular Vogue 1250 drape neck dress. I finished the neckline by adding a band. This was pretty simple to do. Cut a stripe of fabric about a inch shorter than the circumference of the neck and 1 1/2" wide. Join the ends to create a circle. fold it in half along the raw edges; Divide the band and the neck into four sections; then attach the band putting the band seam at the center back. Trim seam allowance; then fold the band to the inside and stitch in place. This creates a nicer finish.

Likes:

The neckline; you can drape it over to the side to expose a shoulder.
The cut of the top and how it drapes across the waist and hip. It has a slimming affect that we all can appreciate.
It's easy to sew. There are only two pieces. The front is also the back.

No dislikes for me.

The fabric is from my stash. I purchased it from Ann's Gorgeous Fabrics online store about three years ago. Beautiful fabric that was easy to work with. She has some great fun and funky knits that would be perfect for this top. I've already pick a few to buy for more tops.

This is a good one to try. It's easy and stylish; great for beginners.

The pants I wearing were made using Simplicity 2315. Another pretty easy pattern to sew. The pants are described as slim pants. My pants aren't as close fitting as the pants on the model. But that's good for me. If you want them to be skin tight, you'll have to reduce the width of the pant leg on the outer and inner leg. I made view E without the waist tabs. I wanted to be able to wear my tops outside the pants.

This pattern comes in sizes 6- 22; I used 14 with my usual modifications: lengthen the pant leg by 4 inches, adjust the crotch length and curve. I also add a front zipper fly. I don't like back zippers. This is an easy change to make. I simply follow the instructions given in M5818.

The fabric that I used is from Vogue on Roosevelt. It's a wonderful stretch woven that is soft to the touch on the right side, but on the wrong side it has the look and feel of denim. Perfect for me and very comfortable.

My likes:

This pattern is perfect for a pair of slim jean like pants that attractive and comfortable. The contour waistband is the best. I do plan to make a few more of these pants. They are perfect for the Chicago snowy winter; boot ready. You don't have to fold over and tuck them. They are already very close to your leg.

No dislikes except the back zipper.

I recommend this pattern to all level sewists. I think I may make View C, skirt as well.

More Vacation Garments with M6346 and M6083

2011-11-13T13:43:00.000-08:00

I'm so far behind. Still trying to review summer garments made for vacation. Well these are the last three. Then I can move on to more new projects.

Can you believe next week is Thanksgiving? Wow! I can't. Time is moving at warp speed. Christmas is around the corner. Don't blink. Lol

Now for the reviews:

My daughter asked for two dresses made using M6346

.

Pattern Description: MISSES' DRESSES IN TWO LENGTHS: Loose-fitting dress has elasticized neckline and sleeves.

Pattern Sizing: 8 - 22; I used size 10 with.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did. I made some slight changes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Nothing difficult or confusing in the instructions. Very easy to sew.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? DD picked this one. The ruffled skirt of view C is her favorite. No dislikes.

Fabric Used: Fuschia gauze and yellow cotton blend from Vogue.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: No alterations. I eliminated the little tie at the neckline.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? No. twice is enough. But I do recommend it to others. It's a quick little summer dress.

Conclusion:

This is a quick and easy pattern to sew. It's great for casual summer wear.

Second, short review:

I decided to make M6083 again. This time view E. I used my gift fabric from Andrea and omitted the pockets and belt. I only make a crotch adjustment and lengthen the pants.

This print is definitely the speaker and the jumpsuit didn't need a lot of details to be noticed.

I wore it the day we were out and about in St. Kitts. It's was just as easy to make as the first. That's it for clothing made for my vacation.

Now back to fall/winter sewing. Upcoming reviews on a few things cut and ready to sew. And to help celebrate Thanksgiving and all the delicious food we all plan to cook, I will post my mom's recipe for Banana Pudding, one of my favorite desserts.

Happy Sewing!
C

McCalls 6433 - Unity Conference Dress 2011

2011-11-12T12:00:00.000-08:00

McCall 6433

It has taken over a month to review this dress. The first photos were grainy and didn't show the details. The second set aren't too much better. So today I was lucky. Saturday morning bright and sunny, about 50 degrees. Perfect for the third photo session.

I'm a fan of the Palmer/Pletsch fitting system, and I love when the instructions are included in the pattern.

Pattern Description: MISSES' DRESS IN 3 LENGTHS: Fitted, lined bodice, front and back darts, stitched shoulder pleats, back zipper and self lined cap sleeve. A,B: A-line skirt, stitched pleats, C: Straight skirt, back slit. Optional purchased belt.

Pattern Sizing: 4-16

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes. They were typical; no problems with understanding the instructions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the design of this dress. The pleats at the shoulder and waist. My dislike is related to the drafting of the bodice front and back. Two of the views have sleeves, one does not. All three views use the same front and back bodice. The maxi dress is made out of knit fabric, which probably doesn't cause a big issue with the armhole. For me the lower portion of the armhole is too low for the sleeved view (red). I didn't notice this issue until after I set the sleeves. It's not a big problem; but it's noticeable in the feel and wear of the dress.

Note the difference in the fit.

Because I really like the bodice of this pattern, I tweaked the front and back to fit better. I plan to combine this bodice with another pattern. My inspiration is a dress from the Cadena Fall 2011 fashion magazine. But that's another review.

Fabric Used: Cream silk linen from Vogue in Evanston. Polyester lining.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Usual changes, FBA, prominent shoulder blades, sway back and lengthen skirt a few inches. I also added lining to the skirt. To make the front skirt lining, I used the skirt pattern for the maxi. For the back lining, I simply used the back skirt pattern.

The plunging neckline is too low for my taste. I bought it up about a inch or so. You might want to do the same as it is still cleavage baring. (This change was made in the cutting process.)

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I will use the bodice for another dress. And I do recommend this pattern. Make sure you make a muslin or paper (pattern) fit the bodice.

Conclusion:

Cute dress that is easy to make. I do recommend it to all level sewists with modifications.

A few more photos here.

Jeans for my journey - V7608

2011-11-10T20:42:00.000-08:00

V7608 Sandra Betzina

I wanted a new pair of jeans for my trip. This pattern fit the bill. It's been in the stash for a few years and is out of print. The pattern pieces were already cut and ready for use. That helped speed up the process a bit. I made them in one day (Thursday afternoon/evening).

Pattern Description: MISSES' JEANS Close fitted, straight-legged or boot cut, below ankle pants have contour waistband and yoke back below waistline and carriers, side front pockets and fly front zipper. Optional top stitching design and rivets. FABRICS: Corduroy, Denim, Stretch Denim and Brushed Cotton Twill. Lining: Cotton Twill. Unsuitable for obvious diagonals. Allow extra fabric to match plaids or stripes. Use nap yardages/layouts for pile, shaded or one-way design fabrics. *With nap.**W/O nap. See pattern envelope for additional information.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes A - J; view A

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? For the most part. I didn't do all of the top stitching and I used a decorative stitch on the pockets and front of the pant leg.

Were the instructions easy to follow? No problem with the instruction. On page 2 there are some helpful fitting instructions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I actually bought this pattern for view B. The photo of that view looks more like the line drawing of view A. Secondly I thought the decorative stitching on the pockets and pant leg was interesting. No real dislikes.

Fabric Used: Stretch black denim from JoAnn's and some leftover yellow cotton blend for the front pockets.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I only made part of my usual crotch adjustment and I lengthen the pant leg about 3". Also I left out some of the top stitching and omitted the rivet.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I will sew them again. Next time I will shorten the crotch a little and possibly do more of the top stitching. And yes, I recommend it if you have it in your pattern collection.

Conclusion:

Nice jean pattern with some helpful fitting instructions. These pants fit nice. I'm sure to get a lot of wear out of them.

Back From Vacation!

2011-11-10T12:00:00.000-08:00

Hello beautiful people!

I'm just returning from a fantastic vacation in southern caribbean. What a great time with family and friends. We cruised to Puerto Rico, St. Thomas, St. Kitts, Aruba, and Curacao. Here are are few photos from our trip. More are located here.

The Serenade of the Seas is beautiful.

Me in St. Thomas.

Early morning workout was in order to help burn off the rich delicious food eaten every meal on board. My cousin, Gerri, is fierce in the gym.

My girl, Ms. Tricey enjoying the sites and shopping.

Me in the garden in Aruba. To my surprise, Aruba is more like a desert island. A lot of cactus and super hot.

Megan's Bay in St. Thomas. Absolutely beautiful. We toured St. Thomas and spent a few hours at the beach (Megan's Bay).

This local resident has lots of family in St. Thomas. They were everywhere.

Barbara, me and Latrice in San Juan.

It's wonderful to be able to vacation. But I'm always glad to come home to get back to my routine. And no I'm not crazy. Lol I love my work, friends, family and am comfortable with my daily routine. My travels are but a small part of my life.

This week I'll post a few things I made before the trip.
Happy Sewing!
Cennetta

M5752 - The Perfect Knit Dress

2011-10-25T08:19:00.000-07:00

M5752

I don't know why I waited so long to make this dress. The pattern has been in my stash for three years. At some point, I cut the pattern out and returned the pieces to the envelope. It's been on my list of things to make, but never made it to the top until last Wednesday.

Here again I'm reviewing a pattern that is liked by so many sewists on PR. It's been reviewed 36 times. Is it worth reviewing again? Maybe.., Someone may have a similar body type and would like to read about my experience. So here's my review on the perfect knit dress. Oh yeah, It's a classic and has a bit of a vintage look.

Pattern Description: Misses' dresses with gathered wrapped bodice, gathered self-lined midriff, A-line skirt and sleeve variations in two lengths; dresses A, B have gathered shawl collar and extended overarms; dresses C, D have gathered shoulders; dresses A, D have gathered drapes; dress C sleeves are three-quarter length; dresses A, B, C, D lengths are mid knee.

Pattern Sizing: 8 -22; I used 14 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? It certainly did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I love the Palmer/Pletsch instructions. They make it easy for beginners to experiment with making fitting adjustments. Also, the cutting lines for many of the adjustments are printed right on the pattern. Over the years, I've found that the Palmer/Pletsch instructions and cutting lines help to make adjustments to similar styled garments. There were no confusing steps in the instructions. I didn't sew them in the same order. I try to put as much of the garment together before going to the ironing board. ie., sew the skirt(F and B) together, midriff, belt, front and back bodice at side and center back collar together before making my first trip to the ironing board. This saves me a little time.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked everything about this dress, both views. Nothing to dislike.

Ruching at the side.

Fabric Used: Charcoal/black knit with velvet floral print. This is one of the gifts that I received from Andrea. Nice fabric. Originally, I thought about making view D, but I didn't have enough fabric. So I quickly switch to view A. I used a black knit from my stash for the belt. I used a thin tricot for the midriff stay and lining to reduce bulk. The last thing I need is thickness around my mid section. :-)

Needle used: embroidery. The velvet floral seem to cause skipped stitches. So I switch the needle to an embroidery one hoping it would solve the problem. It did.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Yes, I made my usual adjustments: FBA, prominent shoulder blade, sway back, and a few inches to the length of the skirt.

I did notice the collar is a little too big. Next time I'll trim the center back seam to size 12.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes. I want to make view D and view A again (Summer). Yes. The design speaks for itself. Great design and easy to sew.

Conclusion: This is a great knit dress and Palmer/Pletsch makes it easy to handle fitting issues. From beginning to end I was able to finish it in six hours.

All pictures here.

Parting Shots: DD and friends hiking at Starved Rock.

Inspired by Salvatore Ferragamo - Simplicity 2812

2011-10-16T19:50:00.000-07:00

Oops forgot to press the loops on the sleeves. Easy fix.

Today I was able to wear my first made-by-me coat of 2011. Believe it or not, this coat was a UFO. I first thought of making it back in February 2010. The fabric was a gift from Marji.

Salvatore Ferragamo's collection is all about black and white houndstooth. His designs are featured in all the top fashion magazines and are also posted on the Style.com website. Both Carolyn's and Erika B.'s recent creations inspired me to finish this coat sooner rather than later. And I'm glad I did. I'm very pleased with the results and am eager to get some wear out of this coat before the Chicago winds become bitterly cold. The black and white pattern can be worn with some of my favorite colors: red and purple. And of course black.

I used Simplicity 2812 to design my coat. Although it's not a new pattern, it is still current and has a lot of nice design elements. This pattern has been reviewed about 18 times on PR. So, my use of the pattern may not give any new information about how the pattern comes together or how well the instructions are written. But I did want to share my experience on making this coat.

Pattern Description: Misses' lined coat in two lengths and jacket with collar and sleeve variations. (Simplicity's descriptions are so vague. Seeing the drawing gives you a better idea of what's available in this pattern.)

Pattern Sizing: 4 - 22; I used size 14 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes. My finished coat was close to the cranberry (drawing) version on the envelope.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes. For the parts I read. At a glance, none of the instructions were vague or confusing. Typical construction of a princess seam coat.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? There are quite a few things I like about this pattern: the gathered collar, welt pocket, empire waist, princess seams for easy FBA, and the tabs on the sleeves. I have no dislikes.

Fabric Used: Woolen black and white houndstooth and for the contrast a black woolen. Lining - basic polyester lining from JoAnn's in white. Before cutting fabric I preshrunk it by pressing with a lot of steam.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Many changes:

- I wanted to maximize the use of the fabrics. The houndstooth is a loose weave woolen. So I decided to make bound button holes in the contrasting black fabric (tighter weave). I made them using a combination of Summerset and Sherry's tutorials.

- I interfaced the entire coat except for the sleeves for more support and body.
- Sleeve heads were added.

- Contrast fabric tabs, loops, front facing, collar, buttonholes and pocket welts. The contrast makes the coat pop.
- My standard FBA
- Lengthen the sleeves about 1 1/2" and the coat about 2".
- Added about 1/2" to the center front of the coat. I like a little more overlap at the front closure of my coats.
- My standard prominent shoulder Blade and swayback adjustments

Challenges: Matching the pattern of the fabric across all seams with the given fabric yardage.

Learning: Making this particular coat, I noticed that my right hand is significantly larger than the left. (Got to exercise the left arm a little more.) And this is my first time making bound buttonholes. The tutorials made it easy.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I may make another view of this pattern, and I do recommend it to others.

Conclusion: I love, love my new coat. This was the perfect time to make it. Pairing the simplicity pattern with the fabric was great foresight on my part. It's classic and just in time share in the Ferragamo fashion sewing sphere.

All pictures are here.

Bag in Hand - Clutch Purses for Every Occasion

2011-10-10T12:00:00.000-07:00

How many of you are glad to see the come back of the clutch purse? Well, now they are hot. Do you think clutches are way too small and very inconvenient? Not to worry, they come in a variety of sizes and styles. Some even have a shoulder strap to free up your hands. I like the idea of clutching my purse every once in a while. Here are a few jazzy pocketbooks that caught my eye.

I know some of you style goddesses will make you own purse this season. Happy Creativity!
C

Inspiration comes from Vogue magazine.

Snake, Rattle and Roll

2011-10-07T06:00:00.000-07:00

Snakeskin is big this fall, heavily featured in magazines and on the runway. I've always loved snakeskin. It's exotic and beautiful.

A few years ago, I made a faux snakeskin jacket that I'm still wearing this fall season. It's a great jacket to throw on with jeans or a skirt.

Last month, I made my first structured purse using a snakeskin print fabric from Vogue Fabric. Later I will make a matching jacket. This fabric only cost $4.99 per yard. It's reversible and rich in appearance. I think Vogue had it in three different colors.

Today's snakeskin inspiration comes from magazines: Marie Claire and Vogue. Enjoy and have a wonderful weekend!

Love, love the killer boots. And check out the mixed media on the purse and jacket.

Interesting colors on these snakeskin clutches. Off topic - Kewl boots that look like shoes.

Dress and blouse - Snakeskin on top of snakeskin. Interesting..,

This and That

2011-10-05T08:19:00.000-07:00

Happy Wednesday!

It's been too long since I last blogged. But finally, I'm able to post a response to comments on the structured hand bag workshop that I attended. As always, thank you for your comments. Unfortunately, I won't be able to post the hand bag tutorial. John instructional materials are copyrighted. Can't tell you how that works exactly, but I don't want to do something to cause confusion. Again, I'm really sorry about this. I was so excited about sharing, I didn't think about how this may impact John. So, if you are interested in the class, give John a call and make some arrangements for a class. He is more than happy to give instructions. So here is his contact information again:

John Koch
1070 West Berwyn Avenue
Chicago, Illinois
773-275-4151

Two weeks ago, I received a great surprise from the postman. A package filled with Spandex House fabric from Andrea (Knit-Knac). She was fortunate to meet up with my home girl,Robin (Yarn Crawl) and Elizabeth (Sewn) in New York to, you know, fabric shop. Thank you, Andrea.

Coming, reviews on McCall 6433 and Simplicity 2812. The dress was made four weeks ago. Picture day was gloomy and the pictures didn't turn out to good. So I will try to get some decent pictures to go along with the review. In the meantime, I'm planning to use the bodice to make another dress. Simplicity 2812 is on the sewing table and almost finished. So far so good. This is another UFO that I started over a year ago.

Finally, more inspiration to come. There is quite a few fashion trends that I want to explore. So I will share my thoughts on them. The list:

Tan
Capes
Snake Skin
Clutch bags
Blue
Red
Lace
Graphics
Varsity Jackets
Shine
Accessories

John Koch - Creative Genius at Montrose Studio

2011-09-28T17:00:00.000-07:00

Last week I had the distinct pleasure of participating in a two day workshop at the Montrose Studio. John Koch is the owner and propetier of this eclectic studio located on West Berwyn Street. The location is unassuming, but when you enter your eyes are on visual overload. John makes everything. Customes, stage props, purses, shoes, hats. You name it. John makes it.

John made almost everything on this wall. The shop is filled with sculptures, pictures, hats, purses, beads and all the supplies and equipment needed to produce beautiful works of art.

John has degrees in Art and Design and Art History. He has dressed windows for Carson Pirie Scott and actors of stage plays. His work has been featured in newspaper and magazine. Looking through his portfolio is a sweet treat that you should not pass up if you happen to stop by his shop. Seriously, I could just watch him work.

Below, Sandy Young working her purse. This lady is a pro at making purses. She gets orders for her custom made bags.

Janice pictured here with one of John's petite purses.

Below are several purses designed by John. Many shapes, sizes and types to fit the occasion.

The Haute Couture Club coordinates workshops and seminars with local and national artisans to help us hone our creative skills. John Koch regularly gives workshops on designing purses, hats, and gloves. This was my first time attending one of his workshops and it was worth every cent.

So if you have a group or club in the Chicago land area that wants to take classes at Montrose Studio, give John a call. He would be happy to share his talent with your group.

      Montrose Studio
      1070 West Berwyn Avenue
      Chicago, IL
      773-275-4151

At the end of the workshop, I had made two purses: clutch and clarinet type bags. Both taking less than a yard of fabric, plus lining, and a few other notions. All in all, I enjoyed the experience and look forward to the next class.

I thought about doing a little tutorial on making the clutch bag, but I am not sure yet. Believe me, it's easy and you can modify the process to a very nice portoflio.

So here are pictures of my bags. The insides are just as beautiful as the outsides.

More pictures can be found here.

Happy Sewing!
C

Lady in White - Unity Conference 2001 - Burda 7576

2011-09-19T08:20:00.001-07:00

I originally considered using Butterick 5263 to make DD's Unity Conference outfit. But there were too many changes needed to bring the pattern up-to-date. So I decided to go with Burda International 7576.

This review will be on all three coordinates available in this pattern. So this is a long review.

Pattern Description: Often Burda is vague about descriptions and instructions. Their description reads: Coordinates - A: fitted B: Close fitting and C: Semi-fitted. My description - Fitted lined jacket with notched collar, pocket flaps, and peplum. Lined pencil skirt with front slit. Top with gathered neckline and collar, back loop and button closure.

Pattern Rating and Other Information: This pattern is rated average which I think is pretty accurate. I wondered about the description of the jacket. It states fitted. But after sewing it I noticed that there is quite a bit of wearing ease across the chest area. I wondered if my pigeon chest adjustment was too much (usual) amount. But I looked at the model wearing the jacket again and noticed that she was holding the left lapel and that there was a little more room across the chest area in the jacket.

Pattern Sizing: 10 -20; I used size 10 with modifications

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes it did. I added another button above the waist button.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Everyone knows how Burda does it. But enough to follow without getting confused. On page one - Interfacing. There is an illustration showing what needs to be interfaced. They forget to include information on interfacing the hem of the jacket. I did as I interfaced the noted pieces. It's not mentioned/shown until instruction 14. Step 38b - placement of the loops and basting. The illustration shows the loops too far apart. I've seem this illustration in other patterns as well. I like to put the ends closer together.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the outfit. This was a pattern that I selected for myself. But this became plan B when plan A (Butterick 5263) fail through. Jacket - the sleeve detail, lapel, and peplum. Skirt - front slit, tapered hem. I love the draft of Burda pencil skirts. Great silhouette. Top - Gathered neckline and back closure.

Oops.., It look uneven; but it's not. I just didn't properly lay it down.

Outside of wearing ease of the jacket, the pattern is pretty well drafted. All of the pieces went together with no problems. Attaching the lining to the skirt slit was a breeze.

Fabric Used: Polyester crepe and lining from Vogue's (white) and a purple/violet silky polyester (special occasion) from JoAnn's.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Jacket -
First, I wanted to get a visual on how the pieces would go together. Then I made a square shoulder and pigeon chest adjustments to the appropriate pattern pieces. See those changes here on Flickr.

I also added a button above the waist. It just looked better to me. I covered the buttons using the same fashion fabric as the suit.

Skirt -
After attaching and sewing the ends of the waistband, I hand stitched it to the inside of the skirt. My closures are a skirt hook and eye where the two ends meet at the zipper plus and button and buttonhole wear the waistband overlaps.

Top -
No adjustments for fitting. I moved the ends of the loops closer together for a nicer finish. And I didn't have three of the same button for the back closure. There were only two in the stash that were alike. I made a trip to Hancock's to buy more. And guess what.., they changed the materials used for that style. Didn't like them. So I just used what I had, having two button alike and one different.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I will sew it again for myself next time. And yes I do recommend it to others. It's a great outfit and the pattern goes together with no problems. Nice design lines and well drafted pattern. Make sure you work on fitting the front jacket to your comfort level.

Conclusion:

This is a great little suit pattern that can be sewn by someone with intermediate sewing skills. The look is clean and sophisticated.

Happy Sewing!
Cennetta

DIY Fascinators

2011-09-19T07:17:00.001-07:00

For a while I've wanted to try my hand at making hats. Not the crocheted type but ones made of wool felt or straw adorned with all the accoutrements that make it special. Since reading about fascinator's in a current issue of Essence magazine, I decided to try making one.

I purchased a petite hat on eBay. I needed a white one, but they only had off-white. So first, we tried to paint it pearl white. That didn't work. Then I decided to make a cover for it. Sorry I don't have any measurements and not many pictures. But it's not hard to do. Here's how.

- Place the hat top side down on the fabric; trace the outline. Cut the cloth, adding the desired seam allowance.

- Measure the circumference of the traced outline minus the seam allowance. This measurement (circumference) is the length of the fabric for the body of the hat.
- Next, measure the height of the body. Use these to measurements to cut the body of the hat. Add seam allowance.

- Double the fabric. Then place the hat top side down on the fabric; trace the outline of it. Then turn the hat right side up and trace the brim of it. Cut away the smaller oval. Next, cut away the fabric from the larger outline (brim) adding the seam allowance.

- Sewing; join the two short lengths of fabric for the body of the hat. Press. Make little slashes around the Oval (top of the hat). Then pin it to the body of the hat. Sew and press. Now turn it inside out and roll it down over the hat. For the brim - sew the outer edge of the brim together. Slip it over the top of the hat. Work the brim between the two layers.

- The hat band (ribbon) will cover the raw edges. Glue it in place. For the inside, add ribbon or lace, whatever you like, to conceal the raw edges on the inside of the hat. Add little hair comb clips to hold the hat in place when worn.

- Finally add (glue) feathers, flowers (Mine are handmade leftovers from a previous project), or ribbon to decorate.

And you are done.

Parting Shot: DD made this fascinator for me. Worn Unity Conference 2011.

To Color Block or Not

2011-09-14T17:49:00.000-07:00

It's no wonder color blocking is everywhere. The fall color palette includes strong, bright reds, greens and blues. I must admit this trend was a bit over the top for me. My thinking, one strong color is enough. Brights from shoulder to toe maybe too much for me. So for the sake of testing the trend, I looked in my already full closet to see if I could come with a color blocked outfit. So I paired a McCalls blouse (made 2010)and a McCalls skirt (made 2009) then added some grey patent leather shoes to see if it was a passable trendy outfit.

Oprah magazine has a different take on color blocking for the fall season. blocks of bold colors in one garment or accessory. Here's how.

Some curvy ladies may think this trend is over the top; Essence magazine shared these opinions for embracing bold colors.

What are your thoughts on color blocking?

How T

Free Online Pattern Drafting Classes!!

2011-09-13T06:34:00.000-07:00

Today I wanted to take the opportunity to let my readers know about a great learning site. On Rhonda Buss's blog you can find free pattern drafting lessons. Here are some examples of materials recently covered:

One piece lotus skirt

Waist cincher

Eight Gore Skirt

These are just a few lessons available on Rhonda's Creative Life blog.

Happy Sewing with Inspiration!
C

More Skirts - Quick Projects B3734 and B3858

2011-09-09T06:28:00.000-07:00

No doubt long skirts and long dresses have been in for a while. Marie Claire Real Style shows how you can get one maxi dress to create three different looks. Long gauze skirts are great for the summer and can be worn during the traditional fall days.

I used B3734 (OOP) to make two skirts for my DD. These were cut last year and stored in the "UFO bin". I just couldn't let another year go way without sewing up these easy skirts.

Pattern Description: Misses'/Misses/ Petite skirt - Skirt, above mid-knee, lower calf or above ankle, has elastic waist and tier variations. A, B, and E; purchased trim, C and D: optional crinkling. C, D, and E: narrow.

Pattern Sizing: XS - XL. I used size small. View C and View B no trim.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Pretty much. The length of the tiers and amount of gathering appeared to be like the pattern illustration.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Sorry. I didn't really read them. This pattern consist of making an elastic casing, gathers, serging, and straight seams. Not difficult to make.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? DD picked this for simple floaty, summer skirts. No dislikes.

Fabric Used: Gauze from Vogue.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: The only thing I changed was no trim on View B. Sorry, no pictures of this view. It's basically the same, minus the lower tier. So you get the picture.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Maybe. I've seen a lot of this style skirt through the years. I think it's a classic silhouette that repeats season after season. So I do recommend it to others. All level sewists can easily make it.

Conclusion:

This is a classic skirt design that all level sewists can make with no problem.

B3858 - Another OOP pattern, Also an easy skirt to make. This one is for me. And I am ashamed to say, it was stored in the "UFO bin" for over seven years. But the good thing is, I cut extra wide seam allowances. So fitting was no problem. This makes the second time I've sewn this pattern, made view B.

Pattern Description: Misses' loose fitting or semi fitted skirt has contour waist, shaped hemline and side zipper. A, B: A-line, below mid-knee at center front. A, C: narrow hem C, D: below mid-knee at center. B, D: purchased trim.

Pattern Sizing: 6 -22; I used size 12 cutting extra wide seam allowances.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes it did. I made View C.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Easy breezy.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I really like the shape of the hemline. No dislike.

Fabric Used: Rayon from JoAnn's. This fabric is soft and floaty. And the print is perfect for tropical vacation wear.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I only added extra wide seam allowances and lengthen the skirt a few inches.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I don't know. I have so many patterns to try. But I do recommend it if you have it in your collection.

Conclusion: Cut little flouncy skirt that easy to make.

Parting Shot: My sweet DD bought me a pair of KAI scissors. They are the best. Cutting with them feels like slicing through butter. Smooth and silky. She purchased these on eBay for about 15 bucks. Deal right. The green handled dressmaker's shears were a Japan exclusive (So they say).

Fall is Just Around the Corner

2011-09-06T12:00:00.000-07:00

First, thank you for your many, many visits to my blog. And those of you who have left a comment or sent me a personal e-mail, I'm especially grateful that you took the time to send me a message.

I hope everyone's holiday weekend was as planned: sewing, partying, or just relaxing. I had a great weekend enjoying visits with friends and family and a little bit of this and that mixed in. On Friday, the weather was hot and sticky, but by Sunday the temps had cool down to the lower 70's. It's still cool today. The good thing is the sky is clear and the sun is shining. I love days like this, when the air is crisp. Good sleeping weather.

Fall is just around the corner. Or should I say it's here..., I've given more thought to what I will make this fall, but feel like I can't get started until I finish up the few summer projects that are still in the works. On Saturday, I managed to finish up two skirts (will review next). I still have the unity conference outfits to make (white) and a few items for vacation. So the next two months my projects will be a mixture of summer and fall.

There are so many things I want to put at the top of the list, but there isn't enough time or enough me to get it all done. So I'm struggling with what to make first. Anyway, I wanted to leave you with a few things that have provided some level of inspiration for the coming, here already, fall season.

Something neutral or beige is on my list. I'm leaning forwards a beige coat. (Leftover from last year.)

Something with dolman sleeves. I like this top and the trousers.

Something red. I thought about color blocking red with something else. Red by itself is good.

These are but a few inspirational ideas on my fall list. What's on your list?

Happy Tuesday!
C

Another Great Pencil Skirt Option with B5566

2011-08-31T18:30:00.000-07:00

A great pencil skirt comes in handy when you're trying to sew up one yard remnants. Butterick 5566 was a good choice to move some remnants from the fabric stacks to the closet. I made two skirts. There isn't much to review as the pattern has been reviewed many times by other sewists, and it's a simple pattern.

So here goes the short review of my experience.

Pattern Description: MISSES' SKIRT: Semi-fitted, above mid-knee skirts A, B, C, D, E have contour waist and back. A: front overlay, outside stitched darts. B, C: front yokes (contrast B). D: contrast sides. D, E: princess seams. B, C, D, E: topstitching.

Pattern Sizing: sizes 6 to 20; I used size 14 with a few modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? For the most part. The model view appears to be a tapered at the hem. Not so in the pattern pieces. So I reduced the width of the hemline by 3 inches to get that tapered affect shown on the envelope.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Easy breezy.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? View B and A caught my attention. Their not your typical pencil skirt designs. No dislikes.

Fabric Used: White linen/cotton blend and Red tropical wool.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Added 2 inches to the length. White installed an invisible zipper; red installed a lapped zipper.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I plan to make view B and view A. And yes I do recommend it.

Conclusion:

This is an nice pencil skirt to sew. All levels can make with no problems.

Oops! Forgot to change my shoes. Lol

Burda Style Tank 07-2008-126
This is an UFO that I started over a year ago. All it needed was hemming.

Pattern Description: Tank top with gathering and waist panel at center back.

Pattern Sizing: 36 - 44; 4/6 - 14

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions were typical Burda Style. The top was simple to make. So this one wouldn't be difficult to make for an average sewist.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? This style tank reminded me of "back in the day" when as a teenager we knotted our over sized t-shirt for a more fitted look around the waist. I thought this was a cute style. No dislikes.

Fabric Used: Assorted fiber knit from Vogue Fabrics.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I made a swayback adjustment and added a little width at the side.

Flickr

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Maybe and Yes.

Conclusion: Cute little tank that is easy to sew.

The Meshing Truth about Simplicity 7013

2011-08-30T17:30:00.000-07:00

If you read my pattern reviews, you know I purchase a lot of my fabric from Vogue Fabrics. Frequently, I go to the Remnant section first. To see what pretty fabric I can find at half the price. Of course, the fabrics are short cuts; I haven't seen anything over 2 1/2 yards in length. And that's okay when I'm making separates, especially knit tops, summer knit dresses and slim skirts for myself. DD can get a jacket or a pair of slacks because of her size; it doesn't take as much fabric for her.

This next review is about a top that I recently made using Simplicity 7013 (OOP) and some mesh fabric that I found in the Remnant section. The length of the fabric was only 1 1/2 yards. You can definitely see through it. At the time of purchase, I didn't think about the two great tips/tutorials that Ann Steeves wrote about mesh knit fabric, here and here.

I ended up with a fairly decent knit top, but I have to wear a cami underneath it to "protect" myself. Lol I was lucky to already have a red cami that I had a few years ago, It's trimmed with black fold over elastic and is the perfect concealer.

Pattern Description: Simplicity description only states Misses' knit tops. I'll add six knit tops with sleeve and neckline variations.

Pattern Sizing: sizes 6 - 20; I used size 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? My version did not look like any of the views on the pattern envelope. I used the front and back of View F and the sleeve of View A. I like the one sleeve look, but always feel like one arm maybe cold while the other is comfortable.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I just looked over them; didn't really follow them because of the changes I made. But they look pretty standard.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the many options. And the fact that you can mix and match the pieces to fit your personal style. No dislikes.

Fabric Used: Mesh knit from Vogue Fabrics.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Construction changes:

I eliminated the facing. I cut a stripe of fabric about an inch shorter than the circumstance of the neckline and about 2 1/2 inches wide. Then sewed the ends together to create a circle. Next I folded to create a bias facing. Pressed. Stitched it in the same manner as a bias tape to a neckline or armhole.

I didn't hem it. The fabric does not fray.

Design changes:

Instead of using the pattern for one particular view, I combined the bodice of View F and the sleeve of View A.

I didn't do a FBA. It's not a bad fit, but there are a few horizontal lines. No pulling or tugging to get the top down though.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I probably will try another view later. And yes, I do recommend it if you have this pattern.

Conclusion:

This is an easy pattern that a beginner can sew.

Next, I review the skirt (B5566).

Evening Meshed in McCall 6319

2011-08-29T18:30:00.000-07:00

My obsession with fabric has rubbed off on my DD. These days she is serious about fabric shopping. She's always looking for the best deals. Three years ago on one of our trips to the Textile Warehouse on West 21st Street, she bought this mesh fabric. The store is huge, nearly a block long three stories of fabric and notions.

The silver mesh fabric used to make this dress was bundled with several other pieces and weighted. The bundle was priced at $2.00 a pound. Interesting way to sell fabric. The mesh fabric measured about two yards. It was first used to dress her jewelry table at artist alley. Then one day in June she said to me, "What could you make out of this fabric." I looked and sort of frowned, " I don't know. It's not something I'd want to wear." All the while, I was thinking what could I make. So I turned to the many fashion magazines on my table and started thumbing through them. To my surprise, several pages featured beautiful mesh knit garments. Now, this dress is the result of the inspiration from those garments. My fabric shopping, deal getting DD has a great dress to wear to the Captain's Ball.

So here is my review of this sewing project:
M6319

Pattern Description: MISSES' DRESSES: Fitted dress with tapered skirt has lined bodice and elasticized waist.

Pattern Sizing: 8 - 22; I used size 10 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Very easy; I had no problem with following them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the style of this dress and thought it would be a great way to showcase the fabric. The dress went together easily. I like the soft pleats at the waist and the asymmetric neckline. It's a good knit dress pattern. I only have one dislike which is the lack of lining for the skirt of the dress.

Fabric Used: Silver mesh fabric and black knit lining (Hancock, $6.99)

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I made a few fitting adjustments: pigeon chest and square shoulder. Details on that process can be found here. Because you can see through the knit, I added a skirt lining.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I think I may make a top for myself. And yes I do recommend it to others. It stylish and easy.

Conclusion:

This is a nice knit dress pattern that is easy to sew. A beginner should be able to sew it with no problem.

Happy Sewing!

C

Fall Is In The Air

2011-08-25T08:00:00.000-07:00

Still have a few summer projects in the works, it's past time to start working on my fall wardrobe.

At the top of the list are; a black and white hounds tooth coat. The fabric is a gift from Marji. This coat is right in line with the fall collection of Salvatore Ferragamo. Erica B. posted some of his fall collection on her blog. This UFO was started over a year ago. It's cut, ready to sew and would be the perfect alternative to the traditional trench coat. Vogue 1257 is also high on the list. I want to make this before the harsh winter comes. What's on your list?

A few months ago, I received the Pantone color palette for Fall 2011. I like phlox, deep teal, and coffee liqueur. You may see these colors in my fall wardrobe. The color report it below for your convenience.

Happy Sewing!
C

Chic Chapeaus - Hats Are Back in Style!

2011-08-23T07:00:00.000-07:00

Gene Tiernery - Hollywood Legend from the 30's and 40's
Great matching hat and purse

Ava Gardner - Hollywood Legend from the 30's and 40's

Back in the day, women almost always wore hats and gloves in public. It was an essential part of getting dressed to leave the house. Over time, that all changed. Nowadays it is rare to see women wearing hats in church. Since the courtship of Prince William and Kate Middleton there has been a resurgence of hat-wearing.

Last year, our church Unity Conference Coordinator announced that she'd like the women to wear hats on the climax of the 2011 conference. Of course, I thought about making my own. I wanted it to be unique. Another creative skill to add to my repertoire. The September issue of Burda Style magazine arrived just in time for me to take advance of its feature article on "DIY Trend", which teaching you how to make popular hats and fascinators similar to the whimsical styles worn by Princess Kate.

Essence magazine also featured an article all about the toppers, and how you can incorporate them into your style. I loved every one of them. So for your viewing pleasure hear they are:

That's all for now. More reviews still to come.

Happy Sewing!
C

Vogue 8717

2011-08-21T00:00:00.000-07:00

This is an outfit that I made about two months ago using Vogue 8717. But I'm still on the fence on whether I like it or not. With that said, let me begin my review. (The top is M5977)

Pattern Description: MISSES' VEST, JACKET AND PANTS: Close-fitting, 1" above waist, lined to edge vest A or jacket B have front slanted seams, back princess seams and snap closure. B: three-quarter length sleeves with stitched pleats. Pants C have high waist, straight legs, front stitched pleats, front and back darts, side seam pockets and back zipper. A, B, C, D cup sizes.

Pattern Sizing: 6 to 22; I used size 14 with a few modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Pretty much.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, they were.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I really like high waist pants, but have been reluctant to make them because my torso is a little shorter than average and my long legs gives the appearance of an even shorter torso. But I decided to try this pattern anyway. It has the multiple pattern pieces for various cups size. Which I also like. The jacket is okay. The pleating on the sleeves is cute.

Okay, now my dislikes: The high waist pants aren't the most flattering for me. And the various cups size didn't provide the best FBA. I feel some pulling at the lower armscye. My prominent shoulder blades make the jacket stand too far away from my back just below my shoulder blades. I am still not in love with back pants zippers. Surely, all my dislike are based on my personal preference and fitting issues. If this pattern suits you, try it. But make a muslin and make sure it's the right silhouette for your figure.

Fabric Used: A rayon blend from Vogue Fabrics.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: My usual adjustments: prominent shoulder blades, sway back, lengthen pant leg, and adjust crotch.
For the jacket, maybe I should have worked on the fitting some more to get the right feel and fit at the armscye and at the lower back.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? No, I will not sew this again. But do not want to discourage anyone else from trying it.

Conclusion:

I think this style will work better for others. This pattern is not difficult to sew.

Happy Sewing! Still several reviews to go.

Stay Tuned!
C

Sun Dress - Butterick 5351

2011-08-19T16:44:00.000-07:00

I wanted a simple sundress for vacation and this one fit the bill. Quite a few ladies had good results using this pattern and my experience was no different.

B5351

Pattern Description: MISSES' DRESS: Above mid-knee dresses A, B, C, D have fitted or loose-fitting bodice, A-line skirt and back zipper. A, B, C: shoulder straps. A, B: front and back band. B: pockets. C, D: elastic casing above bust. D: ruffle. Purchased belts.

Pattern Sizing: 8 -24. I like that it has a wider range of sizes. More ladies will have an opportunity to try this pattern. I used size 14 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn't really read them. I've made similar type dresses. It was easy to put together.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the simplicity of the style. It's comfortable and perfect for hot weather. No dislikes.

Fabric Used: I used a stretch woven cotton from JoAnn's.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I did a FBA. Oops no pictures. I just slashed through the center of the front bodice dart, pivoted to the right cutting most to the upper edge of the bodice. Then spread the opening to the desired width. I also added about a 1/2 to the side seam just in case. For the skirt, I added a few inches to the length.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Maybe and I do recommend it to others. It's a nice little sundress.

Conclusion: This is a fairly easy pattern to sew. A beginner should be able to sew it with no problems.

Parting shots: These delicious vegetables came from my mom's garden. Home grown veggies are the best.

The day I received these goodies, I rushed home to fry some green (ish) tomatoes.

Here's how - I start with green tomatoes that are starting to turn red, a little pinkish. They are a little juicer at that stage of ripeness. In a skillet (I use a cast iron one) pour about a cup of vegetable oil in it over a mid-high flame. Slice the tomatoes about 1/4 inch thick. sprinkle salt and pepper to your taste. Then coat each slice with cornmeal. When the oil is hot, gently place the slices in the skillet. Brown on each side to your taste. Remove from skillet. Let sit for 5 minutes. Then eat. Delicious.

Happy Sewing! and cooking too. Wink, wink.
C

Exploring the Cargo of Simplicity 5102

2011-08-17T12:27:00.000-07:00

For what it's worth, I've gotten plenty of use out of Simplicity 5102(OOP). I started my projects mid-July and finished the skirt on Saturday after returning from Wisconsin Dells.

I made variations of three of the six views on the pattern envelope. I personally believe you should use the pattern based on your own personal taste mixing and matching different suggested elements plus adding a few of your own.

I decided to make these garments because I am in much need of some "fun" casual wear. The blue pants were almost finished when I decided I needed the beige cargo pants for vacation. Lucky me, both pair were complete before vacation. I envision myself wearing the shinny blue pair for a Saturday night out; or perhaps, weekday dinner engagement. Whatever the event, I'm sure to get wear out of all three garments.

Pattern Description: The descriptions of the Simplicity patterns are so vague. This one simply says, "Misses' pants in two lengths and mini skirt." I'll include: pants with zipper, pocket and draw string variations. skirts feature cargo and side front patch like pockets.

Pattern Sizing: 4 to 18.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Basically, yes. I thought the width of the pant leg for view A were wider than the ones pictured on the envelope, but for the most part the basic look was the same. I excluded four of the zippers from view A, and I made functional zipper pockets for the front. For view C, I made the pant long added a belt and eliminated the elastic hem. For view F (skirt), I only added two pockets instead of the four.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes. I had no problems with them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like all the style variations for the pants. My only dislike is back zippers for the pants. I guess that's more of a personal preference.

Fabric Used: View C - Beige stretch woven twill, a gift from one of my sewing buddies. View A - Blue shinny denim look fabric from JoAnn's and View F - Grey linen blend from the Vogue Remnant's room.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: For the pants - I made my usual crotch adjustments and lengthen the pants about 4 inches. For View A - I made functional zipper pockets, eliminate four zippers, and installed an invisible zipper on the left side. For View C - I made a belt for this view and installed a front zipper. Finally for View F - I eliminated two cargo pockets and added a few inches to the length.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Maybe. And yes, I do recommend it to others. I think advanced beginners can sew this pattern with no problems.

Conclusion: I enjoyed making these garments and will get a lot of wear out of them. This pattern is not difficult, but some of the details do take time to sew. It's important to take your time. You don't want your garment to look "homemade".

All photos are on Flickr.

Zipper Pocket

2011-08-17T11:06:00.000-07:00

I wanted to write a separate post on how I created zipper pockets. All of the information on "how to" and the photos of the pants are on Flickr. The next post, I will review the pattern and how I used it to create two pair of pants and a skirt.

Some patterns include zippers as a design element on the garment. Sometimes the design element has no other function. It's simply for visual appreciation. The pattern (S5102-View A) that I used had seven zippers: six for "decoration" and the other to get in and out of the pants. I decided to only use three. And all are functional.

The first step to making the two front, hip zippers functional is as follows:

Step 1 - I traced the zipper line on the wrong side of the pants. This is my guide for sewing the rectangle for the zipper. (Sorry it's a little hard to see here, but I hope you get the picture.)

Step 2 - On the right side of the pant, I place the pocket square. (You can determine the size of the square based on the position of the pocket and size of the opening.) This is done before sewing the rectangle for the zipper.

Step 3 - I stitched a rectangle where the zipper would be positioned. (shorten the stitch length 2.0.) Start stitching in the middle of one of the long sides of the rectangle. Make sure you complete the rectangle.

Step 4 - 4. After the rectangle is stitched, cut along the line through the pant and pocket layers stopping about 1/4 inch away from the short sides of the rectangle. At each corner, make diagonal cuts to form a small triangle. Be careful not to cut through the stitching.

Step 5 - Pulled pocket through the opening and form the rectangle with your fingers. Then press.

Step 6 - Place zipper under pant.

Step 7 - When the zipper is correctly positioned, pin it to the opening.

Step 8 - Sew the zipper in place.

Step 9 - Turn pant to the wrong side. Pin the lower edge to the upper edge making a nice little pouch. Sew the two side and the upper edge of the pocket. If the zipper is extended past the pocket, trim the excess.

Step 10 Serge around the stitch edges. Your done.

Next, my review of pants and skirt made using Simplicity 5102.

Happy Sewing!
C

A Little Twist on the Bubble Skirt - Burda 07-2010-108

2011-08-16T14:03:00.000-07:00

After seeing Amanda and Sonoemi's versions of this skirt, I put it on my "to make" list. I had some reservations about making it for myself, thinking it was a bit on the youthful side. But, what the hey.

Burda Style 07-2010-108

Pattern Description: Above the knee knit bubble skirt with a twist at the hemline. The skirt has a waistband and side invisible zipper.

Pattern Sizing: Sizing 36 to 44; Burda Style magazine pattern 07-2010-108

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did. This skirt is featured three times in the 07-2010 Burda magazine. I like all three style options of this skirt.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Typical Burda instructions. The only part I paid any attention to was how to attach the lining to the skirt to make the bubble affect. The rest of the construction was pretty simple.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I really like this skirt. Simple with chic style. It can be for work or weekend social outings. This is a comfortable skirt that will travel well. No dislikes.

Fabric Used: Jersey knit from JoAnn's (Global traveler collection). Knit lining from Hancock's.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I used a size 44 initially but had to trim it down to 42. As usual, I added a few inches to the length.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will make another skirt. Probably in a navy jersey for the fall. And yes I would recommend it to others. It's a nice skirt.

Conclusion: This skirt is trendy, but classic at the same time. At first look, you might think it's more for the twenty or thirty-something age group. But it works equally well for a "mature" woman. The skirt was pretty easy to make. The hardest part was putting in the zipper. If this is a style you'd like to try, making the Burda skirt is worth your while.

I wore this skirt to dinner and a concert. It can be worn to work with a nice jacket or cardigan.

Tidbits on the bubble skirt -

The (balloon) bubble skirt first appear in the Christian Dior 1959 collection. Yves Saint Laurent designed a bubble skirted dress. Since that time the bubble skirt has appeared in stores, on the runway, and in commercial patterns.

Below is the 1959 bubble (balloon) skirted dress.

Jason Wu designed this pricey tulle bubble skirt. You can have it for $1,995. But why pay that amount when you can make it for a fraction of the cost, plus you can feel extra special because you made it yourself.

Here are four ladies on the runway modeling bubble dresses. This is an interesting take on the bubble skirt. Evening wear with ballet slippers.

Closing Comments on the Sade Concert -

She was exceptional! After an hour of the smooth soulful crooning of the fabulous John Legend, Ms. Sade graced the stage. She sang all of her hits from the eighty and ninety with cuts from her latest CD sprinkled in. Every melody possessed the classy, smooth voice that she is known for. The band was strategically positioned on stage in front of a huge screen where her fans could see an occasional prelude to some of the her songs. The visuals were just enough, not a detraction from the "real" action on stage. This was my first time attending a Sade concert and hopefully it won't be the last. Ms. Sade is a classic beauty who gives an excellent performance. There were no uncomfortable delays. The audience never lost interest. Everyone involved was on point. The production was definitely a smooth operation. So I leave you with this video.

I'm Still Here

2011-08-15T12:42:00.000-07:00

It's been awhile since I last blogged, but I will return this week. .., lots of things to share. Quick summary:

made skirts, pants, dresses
saw SADE in concert
vacationed in the Dells
work - some changes, but our team is still receiving assignments

Stay tuned. More to come.

Happy Sewing!
Cennetta

Parting Shots: My DD a few months old and at 18 months. She tuned 24 on August 2nd.

Knit Tops A Plenty - M6036

2011-07-28T07:30:00.000-07:00

The topic of this post is to review M6036. But the underlining subject is to discuss some of the issues related to fitting my DD’s torso. Over the past few years, I tried to figure out which adjustment would best resolve the pulling cross the upper chest area. I tried making a broad and square shoulder adjustment. But that didn’t completely resolve the issue. This year I made a muslin out of some cheapo knit. While fitting the t-shirt, I realized she also has a pigeon chest. Dah.., This means her collar bone and (rib cage) chest area is more pronounced than the rest of her upper body. I pulled out my “sewing Bible”, Vogue Sewing, to see what it says about diagnosing this type of adjustment. The illustration showed the same type of pulling at the armholes that I’ve seen in RTW and a few garments that I’ve made for her.

So following the instructions in Vogue Sewing, I made the adjustments to the pattern.

The good news is the pigeon chest adjustment is similar to the prominent shoulder blade adjustment. So it’s easy to do. It’s a matter of slicing the pattern in the right place and then spread it for the needed amount of space. The bad news is there is still a problem with fitting the back torso. Because her chest is pronounced, her back is slightly concaved and swayed which creates vertical and horizontal pooling of fabric in various regions of her back. Sometimes, I’m able to fold some of the excess fabric out along the center back and across the lower back (horizontal fold), but there are instances where my method does not completely solve the problem. Suggestions are welcome.

All year long, she has been begging me for t-shirts. Finally, I sat down to revisit the fitting issues. For the most part the issues are resolved. So I made her three t-shirt using M6036. I’m still not satisfied with the fit right at fold between the chest and armhole. It hollow there.

My second issue is upper finishing of the armhole. On some t-shirts it looks bulky across the ball of the shoulder. I think that can be easily fitted by trimming away most of the seam allowance. I need to do a little more tweaking, but that’s it. Knits can be very forgiving. With right amount of stretch in a “good” knit fabric, fitting becomes less complicated. To conclude on the fitting part, I was able to produce a few decent t-shirts for her by making a few adjustment s in the front and a sway back adjustment.

Here is the rest of the review:

Pattern Description: MISSES' TOPS: Close fitting, pullover tops A, B, C, D, E have rounded or scooped neckline; top A has purchased lace appliques; top B has contrast flowers; top C has front ruffles; top D has appliques cut from lace fabric; top E has neckline ruffle.

Pattern Sizing: X-Small to X-Large

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? The basic t-shirt yes. But as for the embellishment, I didn't do any. I wanted to get the t-shirt fitting down pat.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yep. I just glance at them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the embellishment options. I use them later. No dislikes.

Fabric Used: Sweater knit from Walmart; jersey knit from Vogue(Evanston) and JoAnn's. All of them had a fair amount of stretch and great recovery.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Most of the alterations are discussed above. Other changes:

Added some rushing on the sides of two t's.
Modified the sleeve length.
Added a neckband.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes and yes.

All photos are on Flickr.

Conclusion: I used this pattern to help address some fitting issues for my daughter (sloper). There is nothing difficult about making the basic t-shirt and the embellishment designs could be used to spruce up your shirts.

Summer Dress Challenge 2011 - Finale PT V New Look 6824

2011-07-25T08:00:00.000-07:00

Finally, I finished my Summer Dress Challenge. I started making this dress early June and six weeks later it's finished. I've made at least two other dresses, several tops and bottoms in the course of making this dress. Why did it take so long? After accepting Faye's invitation to the Summer Dress Challenge, I decided I wanted to do something a little different and "challenging". So I pulled out ole' faithful (NL6824) and some beautiful silk dupioni from Fishman's, and decided to follow Susan Khalji's underlining technique.

If you follow my blog, you'll know that NL6824 is one of my TNT patterns. This is the forth time I've used it and it has helped me produce four nice dresses. Can't say which one I like the best, all of them fit well and suit my taste and figure.

Following Susan Khalji's technique was a learning experience and was a bit of a challenge when it came to all the hand stitching and transferring of ALL the markings onto the underlining. It was certainly worth all the effort though. This approach is not for the faint at heart, it takes a lot of patience and time. The hours I invested were equalient to the amount of time that I spend making a prom dress, wrap and purse. And as I hand stitched the underlining to the dress, I decided I wouldn't do this type of work for pay unless someone had a lot of money to spend and to pay me. Lol. It's an undertaking to say the least.

Some might say, now where would you wear this type of dress? My daughter's friend, Joanna, married on Saturday. So I thought this would be a good occasion to wear it. And of course, I'll wear it to the captain's ball while on vacation.

Since this is the forth time around, do I really need to give the description and size? I guess so for new followers.

Pattern Description: Misses dress with various neckline, sleeve and skirt options. You can design your look with mixing and matching pattern pieces.

Pattern Sizing: 8 - 18; I used 14 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes. Similar to the coral view on the pattern envelope.

Were the instructions easy to follow? This time around I didn't look at the instructions. I chose this pattern because I was familiar with the instructions and I had already worked out the fitting issue. It was the perfect pattern to use for this projects. My focus was on getting the technique down pat.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love this pattern. You have so many options for designing your dress. I could easily use it four more times and get four more looks that work for me.

Fabric Used: Silk Dupioni (Fishman's); silk organza and china silk (New Rainbow). Originally I thought I would use silk charmeuse for the lining, but the china silk worked best for the weight of the dupioni.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Oh boy, many changes and alterations. Above all else, I did my usual FBA, sway back, prominent should blade, a few inches to the length of the skirt adjustments. All are illustrated in previous reviews and on Flickr. The other changes are related to follow Susan Khalji's technique. That information can be found here PT 1, here PT 2, here PT 3, and here PT IV.

Lining attached to the hem.

Lining skirt and bodice lining sewn to waist. Lining hand stitched to invisible zipper.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Like I said, "This is one of my TNT. I will probably make another version within six months. And Yes, of course, I do recommend it to others.

Conclusion:

Follow Susan Khalji's underlining technique was a great experience. I learned how the color of the underlining affects the color of the fashion fabric; the underlining can also affect the drape of the garment; how to baste the underlining to the garment pieces, and how to ultimately create a better dress. Note on the pattern: this is one of my go to patterns. It has good bones and I've worked out the fitting issues so that make the whole process fifty percent easier. Try both the pattern and the technique. Both are worth your while.

Jewelry; bold and simple.

Shoes from shoesonline.com, J. Renee.

Parting shots: Here are a few photos from the wedding. The bride and groom were graciously beautiful.

Happy Sewing!

Thanks for Your Visits and Comments

2011-07-19T07:51:00.001-07:00

Thank you for commenting on my latest posts. I really like receiving your comments and hope that you will continue to share your thoughts on my blog. Please expect a visit from me soon. Friday was the last day of a three-day business processing and mapping meeting. All appropriate stakeholders made the trek from their respective campuses to the Hilton Garden Inn in Kankakee, Illinois. It was intense. We reviewed previously discussed business processes, the corresponding process maps, and completed the future state documentation for each associated unit. Talk about TIRED. I didn't sew a stitch last week. But Sunday afternoon I was able to sew the lining for my Summer Dress Challenge. It's almost finished. I need to sew the bodice lining at the waist, armholes and along the zipper. Then I'm done.

In the meantime, I have a few more reviews on sewing projects completed in July.

Happy Sewing!
C

Ponchos in Summer - Simplicity 4781

2011-07-15T22:00:00.000-07:00

I'm always looking for ways to jazz up the wardrobe. But at the same time keeping it classic. This next review is on a fall/winter accessories or cover up pattern. This has been in the collection for a while. But is not outdated or dull.

This poncho is great for keeping the chill off your arms in those air conditioned theaters and restaurants. It's also perfect for fall like evenings that we sometimes get in the summertime.

S4781

The view that drew me to this pattern is the one I'm reviewing today.

Pattern Description: Misses' ponchos, vest, scarf, head band and bag.

Pattern Sizing: XS to XL, I made large. I made view A.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? You really don't them. But, yes they were easy to follow. This is one of the one hour patterns. It didn't take me an hour to make the poncho.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the simplicity of it. I may make up the scarf, vest and head band for myself and for gifts. No dislikes.

Fabric Used: Knit from Walmart and a stable knit from Vogue. Both have been is the stash for a while.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Instead a sewing a small hem, I serged the edges.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I've already made two ponchos. I will sew a few of the other views. Yes, I recommend it if you have this pattern in your collection. It's easy.

Conclusion: This is an easy pattern that a beginner could sew with no problems.

Talking Wardrobe Building - Presentation at the ASG meeting in Chicago

2011-07-13T16:03:00.000-07:00

A few months ago, Wendy G. asked me to be the guest speaker at one of monthly gatherings for American Sewing Guild. I gladly accepted and was thrilled at the opportunity to share what "little I know" about wardrobe building. Surely, I'm no expert. I pick up bits and pieces here and there. And like many of you, I love clothes that look and fit well.

My little talk was well received by the ladies. Big thanks to Wendy G. Susan G.- you certainly captured the essence of the presentation in your blog post, Thank you. It was an honor. More details on the presentation are here: Sew Chicago

Happy Sewing!
C

The Cardigan of Simplicity 2424 - Threads Collection

2011-07-13T12:00:00.000-07:00

I've been loving the cardigans that Carolyn makes and finally decided to start making my own. I'm going to get a lot of mileage out of this pattern. I can see myself making this cardigan over and over again. I already have the fabric for the next one.

Simplicity 2424

Pattern Description: This is a Threads pattern that includes a jacket, dress, and knit cardigan.

Pattern Sizing: 8-24; I made 16; I was concerned about the bust area and didn't want to make bust darts.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? A piece of cake. This pattern was very easy to follow and I had no problems sewing up the cardigan. I guess I'm on a easy, make it quick kick. I need to get back to my silk dress. That's another story.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It's something that I've been wanting to make for a while. And I decided to make it. I consider this my test/mock garment.

The side seam is more like a side back seam.

Fabric Used: I purchased the knit fabric at Walmart several years ago for a dollar a yard. I bought all that was left. So I was able to make this cardigan and two other toppers that I will review later this week.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Added about an inch to the length. That's it. Future cardigans, I may have to make some alterations. This knit is very stretchy. I'm surprised; it has great recovery too.

I did notice that the shoulder seam is a bit long and that I need to trim the allowance of the armhole.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I plan to make at least five more. Lol This is a good sloper for a simple cardigan. Yes, I do recommend it to all level sewers.

Conclusion:

This is a simple versatile style that's a wardrobe staple. And it's easy to sew.

Simplicity 5956 - Just as Easy as Vogue 1250

2011-07-12T16:00:00.000-07:00

I picked up this very nice knit fabric at Vogue. It was about 1 3/4 yards and perfect for another easy knit dress. I thought about making Vogue 1250 out of it. But it darned on me I had another very easy Simplicity dress that I hadn't years in years. The first dress was made in 2004; long before I started blogging and reviewing patterns. So here's my review.

Simplicity 5956

Pattern Description: Misses' knit dresses or tops and knit or woven skirt.

Pattern Sizing: 4 -18; I made size 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions were as easy as Vogue 1250. No problems. It took about two hours to make as the pattern envelope suggests.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like that it was another variation of a drape neck dress. The design of the front drape overlapped inside and connected to the front armhole which made for a clean finish. Additionally, the back of the dress is cut in two pieces. This give me better a fitting opportunity for a sway back.

This dress is A-line, not fitted or penciled like the Vogue dress. I think this silhouette looks better on me. No dislike.

Fabric Used: I think the fabric is a rayon jersey. It's similar to the fabric I used for the first version of V1250. I purchased it for under $7.00.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: My alterations were minor as the fabric had quite a bit of stretch in it. I did a sway back adjustment and lengthen the dress by a few inches. Also, I hand stitched the back neckline and back armholes. That's it.

I had limited fabric, but I managed to line up the print at the back seam.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? This pattern is a keeper. I could go for another dress and a top or two. And yes, I do recommend it to others. It's super easy and stylish too. This pattern is out of print; But if you have it in your collection, give it a try. It's an alternative to Vogue 1250.

Conclusion: This dress sews up very quickly and a beginner could easily make it with no problems. I highly recommend it to all level sewers.

Vogue 1250 - The Second Time Around

2011-07-12T09:00:00.000-07:00

Two weeks ago, I finished my second Vogue 1250 dress. The fabric is a tighter weave than the first dress. So I graded up a 1/2 size to make sure it fits. On the back bodice, three inches above the waistline I scooped out about 1/2 inch hoping to pull the lower back closer to my body. It's better. So, I know many of you have made this dress multiple times. It's definitely the most popular dress pattern of the summer.

Next, I revisited a dress pattern that is as easy as the Vogue 1250. My full review will be posted this evening or tomorrow morning.

Stay Tuned!
C

4th Blogiversary!

2011-07-04T10:57:00.000-07:00

Today is my 4th blogiversary and Independence Day. Wow! Exciting! It doesn't seem like it's been four years! It's amazing to look back and see how far I've come since 2007. The first post that anyone commented on was July 23rd. That post featured the faux leather outfit that I made to wear to a John Legend concert. I was kinda of skinny then, to say the least. My photographer's (DD) picture taking skills have improved. My sewing is better too. Some of that credit goes to the fabulous sewing fashionistas that inspire and teach me in the blogasphere.

This next year, I plan to incorporate more couture techniques into my projects. My dress for the Summer Dress Challenge is still not done. I will wear it to a wedding later this month and then again while on vacation. The zipper is in, but the sleeves are not. The final processes are to complete the lining and attach it to the dress. Then I will be done. In retrospect, I think the Summer Dress Challenge was supposed to be something less labor intensive and more something to stay cool in. My dress doesn't exactly fit that description. Since the start of my dress, I've made a few others (quick and easy), several tops, coverups and a cardigan. All will be featured here soon.

So, I hope everyone is enjoying their holiday weekend. It's beautiful in Chicago, and I've enjoyed being away from the office for five solid days. So, beautiful ones, that's all for now. Have a great day!
C

Summer Dress Challenge 2011 - Sewing and Fitting PT IV

2011-06-28T08:16:00.000-07:00

First, thanks everyone for your comments on my recent sewing projects. As always, I appreciate your kind words.

This weekend I sewed and did a preliminary fitting of my Dress Sew Along project. I know I'm already seven days past the deadline, but that's all right. The dress looks good. And I wanted to share my progress.

I really like the way this dress is coming together. Sewing silk is a dream.

I must admit, sewing the underlining to the fashion fabric was not my favorite part of this process. My stitches are looonnng. Lol

As I was fitting the bodice, I kept forgetting that I made larger seam allowances to help with the fitting. The lower armholes crumble in my armpits. I will trim off the excess before I add the sleeve caps.

No zipper yet. I thought I had one. Yesterday I picked up a sage invisible zipper. May be I'll put it in tonight.

Here's a full front view of the underlining. It gives the dress a little more body. The silk is a lighter weight dupioni. Holding it to the light, I can see through it. So the underlining and lining will make the dress opaque.

Parting Shot: My friend, Patti Ferguson, gave me this beautiful 4-ply silk charmeuse. The Haute Couture Club has a "Sew Red" challenge this fall. I'll use it for that challenge. Thanks again Patti.

By next week I should have the zipper and the sleeves in. May be I'll have the lining sewn together as well. Until then, Happy Sewing!
C

Jewel Box Friday - Pandora Bracelets

2011-06-24T08:16:00.000-07:00

I've been tossing around the idea of doing a weekly post about jewelry. My DD makes costume jewelry, sometimes with semi precious stones and sometimes with gold and/or silver. She always coming up with interesting pieces. And of course, I'm always willing to "model" and sometimes buy the jewelry.

The latest creations are her version of the Pandora Bracelet. She and I have spotted the bead laden bracelets on celebrities (pictured in magazines). Everyone is wearing them. Here are few that are in my jewelry box.

The beads can be purchased at Fire Mountain Gems or Oriental Trading Company. Below are two more one for me and the other for me DS.

So, what do you think about Pandora Bracelets?

V1100 Black and Red

2011-06-23T07:37:00.000-07:00

V1100

I finally finished this outfit. The dress took the longest. During the process of making it I had a few pitfalls. For one, I should consider the possible issues with the neck band and the fabric weight. It would have been better to use a light weight fabric. It was a challenge to create a smooth neck band. A few months ago I got this bright idea that I needed to go up a size for a little more room (easier fitting). Wrong.., This is the third dress cut at size 16 that turned out to be too big, especially above the bust line.

The good thing is; I finished both pieces. Now I can finally wear them to work. I know it's summertime. But I live in Chicago. One day it's 95 degrees and the next it's 70. So I will have opportunities to wear it before the fall season comes.

Pattern Description: MISSES' JACKET, TOP, DRESS, SKIRT AND PANTS: Loose-fitting, lined jacket A has two-piece collar, two-piece, three-quarter length raglan sleeves with cuffs, front princess seams, mock welts, inverted back pleat, slightly flared back hemline and single buttonhole and button closure. Semi-fitted, lined top B or below mid-knee, straight dress C has neck band, front pleats and back zipper. C: center back hemline slit. Straight, below mid-knee skirt D has raised waistline, back zipper and back hemline vent. Straight pants E have back zipper, waistline is finished with grosgrain ribbon. Purchased belt.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes 6 to 20. I made size 16 scaled down to a 14 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? The instruction were okay. Vogue did not provide instructions on how to finish the neckband. I slip stitched it closed. The next item is not a change in the construction. The jacket has a back pleat and it's lined. The instructions are to leave the lining separate from the hemline. I connected it. Then I noticed that the lined opened pleat looks a little wonky, but it hangs well.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Dress - I liked the neckline; keyhole and the pleats. I dislike the bulkiness of the neck band. It hard to get a smooth finish.
Jacket - I like the pleated back, the cuffs, and the two piece collar. Having two separate pattern pieces for the collar is great; the upper collar slightly rolls under to create a nice finish. This is not really a dislike of the style or pattern, but I wish there were instructions on how to attach the lining to the jacket with pleats.

Fabric Used: Red wool and lining from New Rainbow Fabrics. Black wool from Bubby's. Jacket lining from JoAnn's.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I did my usual adjustments plus cutting at a larger size. Then scaling the dress back down to size 14. For the jacket, the instructions say you should top stitching the entire hemline. I only top stitched to the seam line of the front side. I also sewed the lining to the hem of the jacket.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I probably won't sew this again. I have a lot other patterns I want to try. The dress is a silhouette that is common in many of the dresses I sew. The jacket is somewhat different for me. It's a good compliment to my current wardrobe. I like the look of both garments. If this is your style of dress and/or jacket, try it. Be careful with the neck band. You want to achieve smoothness. It is a focus point and a less than polished look will draw attention. Also, I don't think many people can make this straight out of the envelope. It may be a good idea to make a muslin.

More Pictures Here.

Conclusion: This pattern has good bones to it and is worth a try. This five piece wardrobe is a good choice for complimenting your work gear. The jacket can be worn over other similar styles.

M6078 - Easy, Cute Top

2011-06-20T12:12:00.000-07:00

I'm still not finished with the Summer Dress Challenge. I took a good look at the projects started way back when and decided I needed to do some damage control. No more UFO's. This top and several others were sitting in the bag.

I needed/wanted a new top to wear to a baby shower on Saturday afternoon. So I quickly sewed up this one. Yes quickly. It took about two hours.

M6078

Pattern Description: Misses' tops: Top A has front and back stitched pleats, front drape, lapped back and extended shoulder seams; top B has stitched front pleats and drape; top C has front drape and contrast loops.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes X-Small to X-Large; I made size M; view C.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes. I didn't make contrasting loops.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Very easy. All levels can make this top.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the drape neckline and the ease of making this top. Dislike: None.

Fabric Used: A four way stretch knit from Vogue. This was in my stash.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I only added 1/2" to the side seams and a few inches to the length. For the side seams I slightly tapered in after the bust area through the waistline.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I plan to make the another views. When I don't know. I still have a bag of knit tops to sew plus a few dresses. But I recommend it to everyone. It's easy to sew and comfort to wear. No fuss and stylish. You can't beat that.

Conclusion: This a stylish top that is easy to sew. A beginner can make this with no problems.

Summer Dress Challenge 2011 - Marking, Aligning and Basting Part III

2011-06-14T11:28:00.000-07:00

I think the today is the last day for the Dress Challenge. I'm no where close to finish. Oh well..,

The next step in the process of underlining is marking it. The underlining is the canvas for marks to guide stitching. I cut the underlining first leaving the seam allowances wide to allow leeway in fitting and design. Pictured below is the front bodice, which is cut on the fold. I apologize for the lighting. The markings aren't clear, but I hope you'll get the general idea.

Mark all stitching lines. They can be referenced from a muslin that was used to fit the garment. Then copy every detail: notches, grain line, and circles.

The next step (not pictured) align the fabric and underlining. Match the grainlines. Be careful. Make sure nothing gets trapped between the layers. Next pin in the seam allowances. The pins should be perpendicular to the stitching line. Finally, smooth the layers. Check and repin as necessary.

Baste the layers together.

After the alignment process is finished carefully baste the layers together by hand. Do not machine stitch. Hand stitches gives you better control in keeping the layers from shifting.

Use rayon or silk thread. It goes in smoothly and pulls out easily when it's time to remove it. Use new thread for every line. You want one continuous line of thread for each seam. Go pass the points of intersection to give yourself a clear indication where the seams cross.

After all pieces have been carefully marked, aligned and basted, sew everything together for a fitting.

Other Considerations -

Let bias cut-layers hang before joining.
You can shift color with underlining. Off white organza is unobtrusive. But a pale pink matched with chocolate underlining changes the color to rum pink.

My fabric has a boarder print. I'm not using it in the dress, but I will use it for the sash. My next steps are to sew the dress together for fitting. Maybe I'll have it finished by the end of the month.

Happy Sewing!
C

Summer Dress Challenge 2011 - Selecting Underlining Part II

2011-06-10T09:01:00.000-07:00

I decided to underline my garment when I purchased the fabric. Underlining in some cases provides stability. But underlining also can play other roles in a garment depending on the effect you want to achieve. You have to consider what you want the underlining area to do: drape, stand up, or fold. For a fitted, boned bodice your may use flannel to camouflage and muslin for strength. Silk organza would be perfect to add lightweight support in a skirt or sheath dress.

For my Summer Dress, I decided to use silk organza because it's stable and easy to work with. It's a perfect match for silk dupioni. In any case, you want to cast the correct underlining. Here are some options to consider:

Lofty - single or double faced cotton flannel camouflages construction details.
Heavy - Cotton broadcloth, muslin, crinoline, and twill offer firm support.
Drapey: Silk crepe de chine and rayon maintain movement.
Light - Silk chiffon is gentle; silk organza, crisp. Cotton voile or cotton batiste add soft support.

Pretreat your fabrics. Steam the fashion fabric and wash any cotton underlining in hot water. Do not wash silk organza; it won't shrink.

Fabric and Underlining Combinations -

Silk Chiffon and Silk Chiffon Underlining
Linen-Silk Blend and Muslin Underlining
Four-Ply Silk Crepe and Silk Crepe De Chine Underlining
Silk Dupioni and Silk Organza Underlining
Wool Crepe and Silk Organza Underlining

That it for the installment. Next Marking the inner layer and Aligning the underlining and fabric.

Happy Sewing!
C

The Haute Couture Club Luncheon at the Chicago Yacht Club

2011-06-08T08:24:00.000-07:00

All the sewing ladies converged in the Chicago Yacht Club for their annual luncheon. The June Luncheon parts the close of our year. We will not meet again until September. The luncheon event includes the announcement of the new officers, fall challenges, fashion committee and the theme.

The is my second year as a member and it's still fun. The atmosphere is festive. There is continuous chatter and jiggles throughout the room. No uncomfortable silences; everyone is gay.

It was quite sunny and very HOT in Chicago on Saturday afternoon. It must have been about 95 degrees; humidity about 67 percent. HOT.., It was good to be in a place that wasn't too warm or too cold. Our hostess for the luncheon was Jane Vartan. I believe her husband is a member of the Chicago Yacht Club. And because of his membership we were are to have our annual event at the club. Thank you Jane. It was wonderful.

So not to be too chatty, here are the pictures from the luncheon.

Marty Moser, Club President. She is holding a piece of the candy that Jane made for us.

My girls.

Carol Scott, Fashion Show Committee 2011

Debbie, Mary and Sandy (Fashion Show 2011)

These lovely ladies made their sheath dresses during the Helen Haughey workshop. Beautiful craftsmanship.

Kathy M. designed and sewed this beautiful silk jacket.

Ms. Evans is so delightful. It's always good to see her. She is sporting a jacket made by her daughter Francine D.

The Fashion Show 2012 committee taking the Oath.

Rhonda B. will head the Fashion Show Committee 2012

V1097 is the November group challenge. The club members are to use this pattern to create their one of a kind coat or jacket.

More pictures can be found here.

Happy Sewing!
C

M5974- What I Wore to the Fashion Show

2011-06-06T21:46:00.000-07:00

M5974

Pattern Description: MISSES' AND WOMEN'S DRESSES: Dresses A, B, C, D have bodice variations with front pleats, neckline variations, self-faced midriff, pleated skirt front, back zipper and sleeves in three lengths; dresses A, B have scoop neck; dress A has short sleeves; dress B has long sleeves; dresses C, D have wrapped bodice, “V” neck and self-ties; dress C has three-quarter length sleeves; dress D has long sleeves; dresses A, B, C, D length is 1" below mid-knee.

Pattern Sizing: 8 -24W.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Nothing confusing.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the "V" neck, the tie, and the full skirt. Nothing to dislike.

Fabric Used: Jersey knit (Vogue Fabrics - I shop there a lot.)

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I need a FBA, prominent shoulder blade and sway back adjustments. Also added a few inches to the skirt and about an inch to the sleeve.

NOTE - I cut this dress at size 16. Palmer Pletsch side seam allowance is 1". I sewed at least 1 1/2 side seams. The dress was still a little big through the shoulder to the hip. It may be a combination of the stretch in the knit and sizing. I could have easily made the size 14. Wearing it, I noticed the shoulder seam was about a 1/4 inch too long. The belt is a little too short for me. Next time I'll add a few inches to it.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes and yes.

Conclusion: Nice mock wrap dress. A beginner can sew this dress with no problems.

V1250 - The Easiest Dress Ever

2011-06-05T17:40:00.000-07:00

Vogue 1250

Pattern Description: MISSES' DRESS: Close-fitting dress.

Pattern Sizing: 6-20; I used size 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? A piece of cake. This pattern only had three pieces. Simple: 1, 2, 3 and it's done.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It was easy, attractive, and sewed together in two hours. No dislikes.

Fabric Used: Jersey knit; I think rayon from the remnant room at Vogue for about $10.00.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I added two inches to the length. Instead of machine sewing the hem of the sleeves, I hand stitched them. It was easier to control the fabric. I added stitch witchery to the hem of the dress to help control the movement of the fabric as it passed through the needle path.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? YES, and YES. Carolyn is my enabler. Lol After reading her post about her third dress, I couldn't resist. My next version, I will tweak it just a little. At the small of my back it stands away from my body. I want it to lay closer to me.

Conclusion: This is a great dress that is super easy and super cute. It's sews together within two hours time. Love it.

V1205 - Lady in Red

2011-06-04T21:21:00.000-07:00

Pattern Description: Misses' Dress, Close fitting, tapered, above mid-knee, lined dresses. A, B have front gathers, shaped seams, back darts, back invisible zipper and back vent. A: gathered, contrast upper left front.

Pattern Sizing: 8-22. I made size 14 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? No problems and nothing confusing about them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Everything. The style and fit. I even liked that this pattern had a back facing that attached to the lining. No to dislike. This is a great dress.

Fabric Used: Moderate knit from Joann's (red), Contrast animal print from Hancock. BTW- It's swim suit fabric. Imagine that. It's perfect for the contrast.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I did my usual FBA, prominent shoulder blades and lengthen it a few inches. For the contrast, I made the lining from the same fabric instead of the tricot lining. I liked it better.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Not for myself. My sister wants one. I do recommend it to others. It's a super cute dress that sews together with no problem.

Conclusion:

I love, love this dress. It easy dress to sew with great results.

Alvin Ailey Dance Troop - Chicago May 2011

2011-06-03T20:15:00.000-07:00

On May 21st I had the pleasure of going to see the Alvin Ailey Dance Troop at the Auditorium Theater. It was great!

Me holding the program.

The photo below is from Revelation which was danced at the climax of the show. Wonderful, wonderful.

After the show we floated over to Amarit for dinner. The tasty food was well presented.

We started with the cucumber salad.

Then some delicious Thai fried rice (chicken).

To finish, A crying Tiger (grilled steak). That sauce on the side makes for a very tasty steak. So if you are in Chicago, stop by Amarit at 600 South Dearborn. The food is good and the atmosphere is pleasant.

Happy weekend everyone! Saturday (June 4th) Is the Haute Couture Club annual spring Luncheon. Stay Tuned.

Cennetta

Summer Dress Challenge 2011 - NL 6824

2011-06-03T11:37:00.000-07:00

Finally, I decided on the dress I will make for the Summer Dress Challenge 2011. The challenge is from June 1st through the 15th. I'm using silk dupioni (Fishman's), silk organza and cotton muslin (New Rainbow) to make the pink view with scoop neckline (NL6824). This will be the forth time around for this pattern.

As part of the goodie bag (PR Weekend in Chicago), I received the May issue of Threads magazine. It's loaded with techniques and tutorials that will help improve sewing skills. Susan Khalje's article on underlining gave me a whole new prospective on underlining garments. I'll incorporate some of her principles into this garment.

This, of course, will be one of many posts about my experience. I hope it's interesting and helpful to you. Thirteen days to go. Hmmm.., We will see how it goes. No doubt I will finish the dress. By the deadline, that's questionable. Lol

Happy Sewing,
C

Butterick B5382 - Still Back Tracking

2011-06-02T10:45:00.000-07:00

Pattern Description: MISSES' DRESS: Straight, fitted dresses A, B, C, mid-knee, have front pleats, raised waist seam and back zipper. A: self-faced cap sleeves. B: three-quarter length sleeves. C: long sleeves.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes 8 -22.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Pretty much. Beginners take your time with making the pleats. It's really not hard to do. It just takes a little patience.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The pleated neckline and the empire waistline. Nothing to dislike.

Fabric Used: Jersey from JoAnn's Fabrics.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I did my usual FBA, prominent shoulder blades, and added some length to it. For this dress I thought I needed to move up a size, but ended up increasing the side seam allowances and cutting away to excess. I've used size 16 a few times lately and found that I'm more a 14 with my normal pattern adjustments.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes. I may make one more version of this dress. And I do recommend it. It's easy and comfortable.

Conclusion: This is a nice pattern that you can sew up fairly quick with no problems. Try it if you haven't already.

Butterick 5471 & M5527- A Little Back Tracking

2011-06-01T14:30:00.000-07:00

I hope everyone had a great holiday weekend. Like so many sewists, I planned to do a lot of sewing over the weekend. But I was only able to finish one of the two red dresses on the sewing table.

Today I won't post the dress as I plan to wear it this weekend and want to post a photo of me wearing it. So for now, I'm back tracking. In April I made three pants, a dress, and a jacket using Butterick 5471.

My first thought was to use this pattern to create a wardrobe: jacket dress and pants. But that plan changed after I purchased the fabric for the jacket and dress. So I only made a coordinating jacket and dress. Then I used the pants pattern to complement a modified version of M5527 (View B). This review is mainly about B5471.

Pattern Description: MISSES' JACKET, TUNIC, DRESS AND PANTS: Loose-fitting lined jackets A, B have princess seams, side front seam pockets, yoke and notched collar, top stitched hem. A: turned back cuff. B: long sleeves with stitched hem. Semi-fitted tunic C or dress D have front seam details, top stitched neckline and back zipper. Semi-fitted pants E have darts, mock fly closing, side seam pockets and waistband.

Pattern Sizing: Sizing 6 - 20. I used size 16 and ended up taking it in and cutting off the excess. More on that later.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? No and yes. In the photo the dress appears to be more tapered than it is in real life. Maybe it's me. The jacket is boxy like the line drawing.

Were the instructions easy to follow? No problems with any of the instructions. Pretty standard.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the princess seams on the front of the dress and on the jacket. The jacket is a little too boxy for my figure and/or taste. For me, I need more tapering at the waist.

Fabric Used: I used home dec fabric from JoAnn's (cotton blend) for the green and white ensemble. For the pinstriped pants I used a polyester from Vogue Fabrics. I brought it in three colors for three pairs of pants and one jacket.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I made quite a few alterations and design changes.

Jacket -

FBA and Prominent Shoulder Blade Adjustments
Contrast Pocket lining, under collar, and back yoke(lining)

Dress -

FBA and Prominent Shoulder Blade Adjustments
Omitted the facings
Lined the dress
Lengthen by three inches

Pants -

Decreased crotch length and Adjusted crotch depth
Lengthen by four inches
Added flap to right back

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I think I'm done with this pattern. I have many in my collection to try. But I do recommend it to others with modifications to suit your personal style.

Conclusion: This is a nice wardrobe pattern that is great for beefing up the spring/summer wardrobe.

To add some variety, I made M5527 (View B) jacket to match one pair of slacks. I've used it before. This time I extended the length of the jacket. When I extended the length I forgot to take into consideration that the mid section is fitted and does not fit over the upper hip area easily. To save the jacket, I made a loop for the closure instead of the buttonhole. This worked just fine. Hopefully the next time I try this design change, I'll remember to add more width across the hip area. Below are pictures on the pants suit.

More pictures on this project can be found here.

Simplicity 2583 In The Navy

2011-05-26T11:39:00.000-07:00

I hope everyone is well. Since the fashion show, I haven't been able to get back into the routine of posting and reading. But yesterday I was able to read about some of your projects. It made me to want to add to my ever-growing list of things to make.

Since April I've made several garments. I don't want to forget the important details about my experience so I really need to get them all written.

Today's review features one of the most recent dresses I made, Simplicity 2583. I've had this pattern in my collection for a while. Many have made and reviewed it on PR already. Last week I decided to use some of the fabric that I purchased at Buddy's in February.

So here goes my review:

Pattern Description: Misses'/miss petite dress or tunic with front and neckline variations. I made the beige dress view - minus the trim on the sleeves.

Pattern Sizing: 4 - 22; used 14 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Pretty much.

Were the instructions easy to follow? piece of cake. Nothing confusing.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I think what initially drew me to this pattern was the keyhole neck variation of the tunic. There is nothing to dislike.

Fabric Used: I used a woolen from Buddy's shop on South Wabash. The trim I purchased at Vogue some time last month.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I made my usual adjustments to fit my body. FBA, prominent shoulder blade, sway back, and a few more inches to the length. (My version is still a few inches shorter than the dress worn by the model.) One design change: omission of the trim on the sleeves. I thought about lining this one but decided to go ahead with the facing instead.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Hmmm.., I don't know if I will. I have so many patterns. These days I'm noticing that I keep making the same style (straight skirt). So, this summer and coming winter I'm going to change that up a little bit.

Conclusion: This is a nice pattern to sew. A beginner should be able to sew it with no problems.

Parting shots: I'm almost done with Vogue 1205. Let me tell you, this is a great small dress. I decided to make it in red with the white and black contrasting strap.

Pattern Review Weekend - Chicago 2011

2011-05-18T12:20:00.000-07:00

Wow!
The Pattern Review Weekend was fun filled and exciting. It was so nice to meet the ladies. Warning: This is a pictorial post. Here we go:

Deepika, Owner and Creator of PatternReview.com. This is the 10th Anniversary, 250,000 members strong. Come join us.

Ting Wong, Our Hostess for the Conference. Thanks, Tina!

Robin Martin shopping at Fishman's Fabrics.

Kelly Adams holding one of books, designed to help her keep track of fabrics and notions.

Kelly's pattern catalog

The ladies shopping at New Rainbow Fabrics

More shopping

Still more shopping at Soutashe (Ribbons, Buttons, and Accessories). Great store!

Beautiful Belt

Andrea is going to make it.

Rolls and rolls of beautiful ribbon.

Jacqui chillin' after shopping.

Rose adding up all those receipts

Dinner at Berghoff.

Andrea- Yes, I made this outfit. And let me tell you how.

Perfect fit and great style.

Angela Wolf, local designer and speaker for the day.

A few of the PR members: Jacqui Rocha Lovelace, Kyle Burkhardt, Jeanette Marie Price, Sherill Miller, Leslie Lawson, Melody Gardner, Connie Bontje

Me contributing to the pattern swap on Saturday.

PS –
I bet you’re wondering if I’ve sewn anything lately? You know me.., Sure I have. I just haven’t taken the time to write about it. Reviews are forthcoming.

Parting Shot: My Sweet Pea graduated from the University of Illinois at Chicago, earning her Bachelor Degree in Business Administration – Management. I’m very happy for her. This is one of three pictures. I was too excited to think about pictures.

Happy Sewing!
C

Butterick 4386 Is a Winner - Easter Dress 2011

2011-04-26T13:26:00.000-07:00

Every year I make my DD an Easter dress. This year was no exception. I picked the pattern; she picked the fabric.

We were lucky. The sky was clear and sunny. Perfect for pictures outside.

B4386 View B

Pattern Description: MISSES’/MISSES’ PETITE DRESS: Semi-fitted, straight dress in various lengths has back zipper closure and back seam slit. A: self bands. A, D: sleeveless. B: contrast collar and bow. B, E: cap sleeves. C: below elbow sleeves and self sash. D: patch pockets. F: long sleeves and front drape.

Pattern Sizing: 8 - 12. I used size 12 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Pretty much. I made a few small changes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? There was nothing difficult about them. Typical instructions. The dress went together with no problems.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the retro look of the collar and bow. No dislike.

Fabric Used: Silk Dupioni and Ambiance Bemberg Lining. Both fabrics are a dream to work with.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Alterations:

-I did a pigeon chest adjustment on the front bodice and facing. I also folded out a small tuck(not pictured) at the neckline to eliminate the gap at the neckline.
-Added an inch to the length.
-I made a small sway back adjustment.

Construction changes:

- The front and back dress are underlined with bemberg lining.
- Single fold bias tape was added to the hem.

- Double fold bias tape was added to finish the armholes.

- I prefer the invisible zipper

- Added a straight eye about an inch above the slit.

Design change:

- For the bow, I sewed the two pieces together to create a wide bow instead of the narrow one for view B.

Caution:

- There is a lot of ease in the sleeve cap. So you may want to remove some of it for a smooth finish.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I don't know if I will sew it again. But I do recommend it. It a great wardrobe builder.

Conclusion: This is a great little dress pattern that is fast and easy. Just like the pattern says. A good wardrobe builder.

Thank you!

2011-04-20T09:15:00.000-07:00

Everyone,

To all my faithful readers and commenters, thank your for continuing to stop by. The Haute Couture Show was a great success and I am looking forward to trying something new for the 2012 show.

Ann Steeves has published an article on Threads that showcases some of the beautiful garments modeled from this year's show. Take a look.

Enjoy!

Cennetta

The Ladies - Breakfast at Tiffany's - LBD's

2011-04-19T05:38:00.000-07:00

My sister, DD and I all modeled dresses for the Breakfast at Tiffany's - Little Black Dress segment.

DD's Dress -

S2248

Pattern Description: Misses Dress with sleeve and back variations. Project Runway pattern.

Pattern Sizing: 4 - 20; I used size 12.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes. it did. I made the chartreuse version on the envelope.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Typical simplicity instructions for this type of dress. Nothing confusing about it.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the neckline and the back yoke of this dress. No dislike.

Fabric Used: A poly blend jacquard from New Rainbow Fabric and china silk for the lining.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: This one was easy to fit. Aside from the sway back adjustment, I tweaked it as I sewed taking a chance that it would fit okay. Size 12 is a little too big for DD from bust line through the hip area. I added about 1 inch to length for a slightly deeper hem. This dress has front and back facing, which I do not like. I lined the dress.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I don't think I'll sew this again. I have hundreds of dress patterns. Seriously, hundreds.

Conclusion: This is a fairly easy pattern to sew. I chose this silhouette to contrast the other two LBD entries made by yours truly.

My Sister's Dress

Wouldn't you it? I do not have a deceit picture showing the front of the dress. Sorry.., If someone gives me a better photo I'll post it later.

B5277

Pattern Description: MISSES' DRESS AND BELT: Semi-fitted, lined dress, mid-knee has raglan sleeves and back zipper. A: self-fabric belt with buckle. B: attached mock front belt with buckle. C: collar with purchased pin.

Pattern Sizing: 6 - 22. I used size 12.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? No problems with the instructions. Easy breezy.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? My sister and I liked the collar and thought this was a good basic dress pattern for her. No dislikes.

Fabric Used: silk dupioni from New Rainbow Fabrics and china silk for the lining.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: My sister is easy to fit. I only made two changes: Added about 2 1/2 inches to the length and used size 10 at the waist. Design change: I hand picked the zipper and added glass beads.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I may make this dress for myself. The view in green.

Conclusion: This is a basic shift dress pattern that is easy to sew.

My Dress - New Look 6824 hounds tooth

This dress was completed in November 2010. So there you have it. Three LBD's for the Breakfast at Tiffany Fashion Show segment.

The final outfit modeled was I faux leather outfit that I made 2007. My sister did the honors since I have changed sizes again. sigh, sigh.

Happy Sewing!
C

Claire Danes Inspirational Dress - B4941

2011-04-14T09:45:00.000-07:00

This is one of two dresses my DD modeled in the show. It was inspired by a dress worn by Claire Danes. Her dress is a sheath. But I decided to use a shift dress pattern by Butterick. The goal was to create my own version of the pocket embellished dress.

Review:

Fashion show segment - American Beauty

Pattern Description: Career Casual Wardrobe pattern - shift dress, bias long skirt, princess seam jacket with collar, and slim slacks.

Pattern Sizing: 6- 22. I used size 12.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, except for the pockets and the piping that I added.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, I really didn't use them. I basically followed my own method. I didn't use the facings because I prefer to lining my dresses. So I only used the front and back for my dress. More on that later.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? This one has been in my collection for over fifteen years. I needed a simple pattern to create the "look" of the inspiration dress. This one fit the bill. No dislikes.

Fabric Used: Wool gabardine for the dress and china silk for the lining, both purchased at New Rainbow Fabric on Roosevelt.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Alterations - Pigeon chest adjustment

This time I decided to try a pigeon chest adjustment hoping for a better fitting dress. In the past I had a few challenges trying to get the best fit for DD. Last time I measured her, it dawned on me that I should try a pigeon chest adjustment instead of a mini FBA.

Design Changes - Piping was added to the armholes, neckline, and pockets to copy the design elements of the inspiration dress.

I used an invisible zipper instead of a regular one.

The facings were omitted. Instead I used the front and back dress pattern to make the lining.

Pockets:

Here are the steps that I followed to create the pockets.

Step 1 - For the pocket, I used the pocket pattern from S2508, pieces 15 and 16. The pattern was scaled down to fit the size of the dress. Here you can see how the piping is pinned to the pocket. At the curves I clipped the allowance of the piping to ease it as I pinned it to the pocket.

Step 2 - I sewed the piping to the pocket using black thread on top and red thread on the bobbin.

Step 3 - I place the lining (cut crosswise) over the pocket. Then stitched. At the upper edge, I slightly pulled the piping to curve it at the seam allowance.

Step 4 - At the top, I stitched the opening about 2 inches on each side leaving an one inch opening to turn the pocket.

Step 5 - Turned pocket.

Step 6 - Press the pocket.

Step 7 - Using a slip stitch and sewed the opening closed.

Step 8 - Make a bow. Fee Style. I didn't use a pattern to make this box. It was sized based on the size of the pocket flap for the dress.

Step 9 - Follow steps 1 through 7 to complete the flap.

Step 10 - Attach bow to flap step 11 - Test positioning flap and pocket on dress. When the position is right, stitch to front of dress.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? No. I'm going to make a matching jacket. If others want to recreate the Claire Danes dress, this is one approach. It depends on what the sewist/design wants to create.

Conclusion: I'm satisfied with my copy of the C. Danes dress. So this project worked out well for me. And DD likes the dress. I can't beat that.

V2237 - Fashion Show Dress

2011-04-13T12:32:00.001-07:00

I was not able to take pictures at the show, too busy. So, for this review, I'm using the garment review photos. Ann and Summerset's suggestions worked like a charm. I was able to sew through the mylar dots with no problem. The rest of the dress was pretty easy to put together. This is the third time I've made this dress.

Review V2237

This piece was featured in the Red Carpet segment.

Pattern Description: A floor length, close-fitting, straight, and lined dress has boning, foundation, inside belt, shaped back hemline and back zipper.

Pattern Sizing: 8 -18; used size 12

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? No problems and nothing confusing.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The simplicity of this pattern was perfect for the fabric that I selected. Anything with too much structure would have made the piece too busy. The outer dress was two pieces, front and back with three pattern pieces for the foundation. Simple. No dislikes.

Fabric Used: Sequined, knit fabric (mylar dot). This fabric was the devil to sew. I tried stretch, ballpoint, and sharp needles. None worked. So, I posted my woes and several ladies posted recommendations. THANK YOU. I tried Ann's and Summerset's suggestions. Both worked like a charm. Ladies, if it were not for you, I would have given up on putting this one in the show.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Alterations - I lengthen the dress. My sister is 5'10". I added straps and installed a invisible zipper.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? The fourth version is hanging in my closet. I was supposed to wear it to my Pastor's Annual Banquet last year, but I ended up wearing something else. So maybe I'll finish it this year. Yes, I do recommend this pattern to others. It's simple enough to make and it's a classic evening gown.

Conclusion: This is a simple evening gown that you can easily jazz up using a fancy fabric or adding embellishment. The community of sewists/designers helped save this dress from the trashcan.