Monday, January 19, 2009

Two UFO's Done! - Simplicity 3690 for DD



These UFO's are from the Urban College Girl Collection 2007. After I finished DD's coat I started working on dresses for me. Good thing she hasn't expanded in the last year. lol

Pattern Description: Misses' Top, vest in two lengths and pants or shorts. I made views A and D.



Pattern Sizing: 4 - 20. I made size 8 for DD.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes. I added a couple of pockets: one the right back and one left front and of the pants. Other than that it looked like the photo and drawing.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes. I looked over them and added under stitches to the construction of the vest.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Like: DD and I liked the style. And I like that the coordinates were simple pieces that I could sew up pretty fast.

Dislike: What appeared to be a simple pattern for the vest, turned out to be a little wonky. This was a surprise given my DD is very easy to sew for when it comes to alterations.

I read a few reviews after making it to see if anyone else had issues with the vest. Ann (Gorgeous Things) had some problems with the neckline and bust area; and she recommended that you make a muslin, which I didn't. It's not bad, but I noticed a little gaping at the neckline (back) and a little winkle at the bust line. I needed to do a sway back alteration.


Fabric Used: Wool blend from the Textile Discount Warehouse.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:

Vest: I didn't make any fitting alterations, but I did under stitch the vest around the neckline, front, and bottom were the lining attaches to the vest.

Pants: No fitting alterations. I added a coin pocket and a welt pocket.

Coin pocket was added to the seam on the left front were the yoke is sewn to the waistline of the pant. To create a coin pocket, I cut one lining and one fashion fabric pocket 4X4 square.

The lining is placed on the desired location for the pocket on the right side of the pants. It is attached at the seam allowance starting at the 3/4 inch point. Sewing from the edge, pivot, and then along the upper stitching line ending at 3 1/4 point, pivot and stitch to the top of the seam allowance. On an angle the pant and the lining are slash to the corner of the stitched seam.



Turn the lining to the inside and press.



View from the wrong side.




Place the pocket evenly over the lining. Stitch 1/2 half seam allowance along the two vertical sides and the lower width. Sewn pocket.




Turn to the right side baste the pocket to the upper edge of the pants.Then attach the yoke to the waist of the pant.



Finished coin pocket.




I followed Debbie Cook's method of making double welt pockets.







Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, but I probably won't sew the vest again. DD wants a few more pants made from this pattern. Of course with pockets. Yes, I would recommend it to others. But make sure you make a muslin for the vest before cutting into your fashion fabric.

Conclusion: This is a fairly decent pattern with the expectation of the "wonkiness" in the vest. DD really likes the pants. She says that they fit perfectly.

Sunday, January 18, 2009

The Peter Sow Dress - Part II

Yesterday, I made a trip to JoAnn's Fabric to meet two clients (Prom dress and graduation dress). We are at the initial stage of trying to find patterns and fabric. One purchased everything needed while the other client looked at patterns and fabric still trying to decide on style and color.

Of course, I took advantage of the pattern sale (Simplicity 99 cents). I found a better pattern for the Peter Sow dress. (Linda I bet this is the same one your were regarding to in your comment. Thanks!)



I'm trying to shop my fabric stash as much as possible. So I search through the silk cuts and found this as a option for copying the inspiration dress. It's not the same color, but follows the theme of audacious print. This is not the final selection, but an option. I would love to find something closer to the Peter Sow dress print.





In the meantime, I sewing UFO's. Two finished for DD on Friday evening. Review will be posted probably tomorrow.






Additionally, client sewing is coming due. So I'm working on several projects at once and will post as I go.


Stay Tuned!

Friday, January 16, 2009

Style Watching - Classy meets Sassy


I'm always styling watching, trying to keep up with the latest trends and searching for designs that suits my taste and fits my lifestyle. I've found my second inspiration outfit in Marie Claire 101 Ideas (Nov '08), featuring a Peter Som combo of tweed with audacious print dress and strappy heels.

Gotta Copy it! Here's the Peter Som dress without the coat. It goes for a cool $1,295. I could probably make it for under 50 bucks.



The Old Navy "steal" option goes for $34.50. Now that's more like it.



Strappy shoes: $57.75 at Macys.com



I can use McCall 5818 to copy the dress and New Look 6736 for the tweed coat (A little different).

Inspiration outfit #2 to copy in '09. The list grows on...,

Happy Style Watching!
C

Monday, January 12, 2009

Jacket No. 2 - McCall 4928 View B


This is the second jacket completed over the weekend. A few PR members have had great success with this pattern. It has classic lines and can be used again, again. Hmmm.., Probably a TNT pattern. ;-)

Pattern Description: MISSES’/MISS PETITE JACKETS: Semi-fitted, lined, below hip jacket with shoulder pads has sleeve, pocket and flap variations; jacket A has top-stitched front and flaps, above elbow sleeve length; jacket B has three-quarter length sleeves, flaps, contrast flowers; jacket C has pockets, long sleeves with slit; jacket D has top-stitched seams and pockets, purchased belt; jacket E has pockets, sleeves with slit, contrast flowers, contrast and self fabric fringes.

I made view B w/ sleeves of view C. I didn't make the flower.

Pattern Sizing: 4 to 20. I used size 14 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? They looked pretty standard for making a lined jacket with sleeve and pocket variations. I didn't spend much time reading them. I followed my usual method of constructing the collar and attaching the lining.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Initially what caught my attention was view E, the fringe on the collar and pocket. But when I paired it with the navy wool fabric from my stash, I favored the classic lines of this jacket. There is nothing to dislike.

Fabric Used: Navy Wool - I think its felt wool suiting, purchased at Vogue Fabrics a while ago.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:I made a few pattern alterations:

FBA - I'll let the picture do most of the talking.


I tried a slightly different approach. Using the method, the width of the front side (2) pattern was increased from the bust area to the hemline. I ended up sewing a deeper seam allowance to bring the hemline circumstance back to it's original measurement. I really didn't like sewing a deeper seam allowance for the Front (1) for fear of changing the shape of the jacket. But after I put the front and back together, it still looked like the pattern drawing.



Sway back and Broad Shoulder Adjustment. I did not add tissue to show the broad shoulder adjustment; I just adding about 1/2 inch to the seam allowance and decreased as I cut along the armhole.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes. I'm thinking about making view A. And yes, I would recommend it to others. This one is OOP though.

Conclusion: This is a classic jacket pattern with sleeve variations that can easily be used as a TNT pattern. Welt pockets can be added instead of the patch pocket or flap. So if you have it in your collection, give it a try.




Forgive the hem of my top. I was trying to show the finished hem of the jacket. It didn't show very well against the navy pants.

First Project of the Year! - McCall 5527


This is one of two jackets that I cut out before the holidays. I was able to finish both of them on Saturday afternoon. I wore this one to church on Sunday with a skirt I made (2 years old) from another McCall's pattern. Here's my review.

Pattern Description: Semi-fitted, lined jacket has front and back darts, single button closure and sleeve and collar variations.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes 6 - 20. I made a 14 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Pretty much. The jacket on the model appears to be a couple inches longer than my version. Could be that she is petite.

Were the instructions easy to follow?Yes. Nothing difficult about them. I competely constructed the collar/lapel before attaching it to the shell. Then I attached the lining/facing. This is the process that I usually follow when making jackets/coats for a similar style.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the design of the this jacket. The wide collar and lapel are what sold me. No dislikes.

Fabric Used: Wool Blend (loose basket weave pattern)purchased from JoAnn's Fabrics about two years ago.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made several alterations:

FBA - A picture is worth a thousand words. So here are the photos of the FBA.


Front Lining and Front Facing


Jacket Front


Checking the modifications of the three front pattern pieces.


Making the FBA on this type a one piece front pattern was alittle tricky for me. I added bust darts instead of trying to rotate the add length at the side seam to the verticle dart below the bust line.




Broad Shoulder and Sway Back Adjustments

The drawing shows the collar resting about an inch beyond the top of the shoulder seam. I didn't think to increase the width of the lapel and collar to maintain the design.




On the Hanger

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I plan to, but I have soooo many jacket patterns that I want to try. So not now; maybe later.

Conclusion: Cute little jacket that was easy to make and can be worn over dresses or other coordinating separates.

Friday, January 9, 2009

Graduation and Prom 2009 - Oh My God!

Commissions for prom and graduation dresses are starting to pour in. I'm limiting myself to only a few. Quality over Quantity is the goal. I really want to do more sewing for myself. Next Saturday, I have two appointments to talk about dress designs and fabric.

A few people approached me for other sewing jobs. Some I said yes to and others I gracefully said no. I promised myself no more stressful client sewing in 2009 or forever.

On the table:

I'm finishing up two jackets that I started at the end of 2008. All is left to do is hemming and pressing. My full reviews will be posted in a few days. Both jackets will complement skirts and pants already in my wardrobe. Next, I'll dig through the UFO's and find something that is nearly completed as my next project. Perhaps something for DD.

Happy Sewing!
C

Friday, January 2, 2009

Year End Review - Sewing Projects 2008

Happy New Year!

I'm full of hope for a prosperous new year and am grateful for the blessings of God. In November and December I thought about last year's resolution and wondered about how how of it was accomplished in 2008. Well, Lindsay's Year End Review was the first one of several reviews that I read on sewing goals and accomplishments. I was impressed by the testaments of my fellow bloggers and started to put together my own review. I borrowed bits and pieces on formatting from several posts to help me write my review.

My grade on achieving the goals set for 2008 is about C+ as I'm carrying several over into 2009.

*More Challenging Projects - The two most challenging projects were for clients - Vogue 1015 and Vogue 8355. I was pleased with the outcome of both, but at the same time recognized the flaws and areas where I need to refine and/or perfect my skills. Practice makes perfect. The rose belt was inspired by a dress/belt featured in Cadena magazine.



*Quantity over Quality - Hmmm ..., I sewed a lot considering, work and family. I think quality has improved. Last year I tried a few couture techniques and was pleased with the the look and affect of the new skills. I only accepted three commissions and a few alterations in 2008. For that I am pleased and proud of myself for learning how to say, "No, thank you."

I took a look at my Flickr photostream to count the number of garments made in 2008. To my surprised, I sewed 48 articles of clothing and accessories. Here's the breakdown:

Skirts = 1 + (1)
Pants = 8 + (5)
Tops and Blouses = 7
Jackets/Coats = 5
Gown = (1)
Accessories 3
Suits 1 + (1)
Dresses = 14 + (2)

() denotes articles sewn for someone other than myself

Make something from Leather - Researched the techniques and processes, but didn't try it yet.

New Specialized Sewing Machine - Researched - no purchase.

Refine Terms and Conditions for Clients - Written but still not finalized.

*Purchased More Reference Books - I purchased several craft book. Check.

*Organized - Working on it.

*UFO's - I only sewed three. The UFO's have increased by 20 percent. Grrrr!

* denotes On going goal.

Networking/Join Craft Organization
- I was fortunate to participate in two "Meet Up", one in Chicago and the other in Philly. But did not attend any conference or seminar. Still on the list. I did, however, become a member of ASG.


My Favorites 2008



Vogue Divine Details - 8355 Made for Ms. Paulette Bell. I was extremely pleased with the outcome of this suit. And so was Ms. PB.

New Look 6824 - My Birthday Dress. This dress was inspired by the 2008 Lace trend. Love it.

McCall's 5269 - This is a favorite too. The fit and style is just right for me.

McCall's 5466 - Can you tell I like satin. lol. After finishing Ms. PB suit, I didn't have much time to make a dress for myself. We attend the same church and were going to our Pastor's 31st Anniversary dinner. I missed it, stomach flu. But I wore my dress and matching jacket to two other occasions.


Most Worn in 2008


Dresses are my favorite; but because of my "occupation" I tend to wear pants more. All of the VC's Tech groups are in the basement of the administration building (Chicago campus). My group, in particular, gets to travel between the campuses for meeting and presentations. So I made several pairs of pants from V2812, M5710, and M5597 for comfort and ease of wear.

Least Liked 2008




New Look 6561 - This top just didn't work for me. The fit of the underarm, the position of the waist and elastic. I passed this on to my sister.

Simplicity 3673 - I didn't pass this dress on to anyone, and I do wear it to work. Its just not a favorite.

Well, that's it!

Happy Sewing! Enjoy life and learning!
Peace,
C

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