Inspiration Coat and McCall's 5247 - Final Chapter

I finished DD's coat on December 23rd, but didn't get a chance to post my final review of the process until now.

Making this coat has certainly been an adventure. Last Summer, DD and I spotted this coat at the Nordstrom online store. Immediately she requested that I make it for her. I agreed, but needed to find a pattern to follow. Then to add to the challenge, I decided that I wanted to "think like a designer" and create a fall collection for myself and DD. Well, I been successful with creating DD's collection, with only two pieces to go. But as for me, The challenge was too great. I only came up with three dresses so far. Back to the coat...,


I really wanted to have the coat made by Christmas; and it was, December 23rd. My version is slightly longer than the inspiration coat. It green (loden) instead of black. DD was very happy with the results.

Over the past few weeks, I have documented my process on creating this coat on my blog. I will refer to those posts throughout this review as not to rewrite the process. There goes.

Pattern Description: McCall's 5247
MISSES’/MISS PETITE LINED COATS: Fitted coat, mid-knee length has princess seams with topstitching trim, side seam pockets, mock flaps, back button-on band and vent; coats A and B have stand-up collar; coat A has purchased trim; coat B has contrast collar and cuffs; coat C has notched collar.
Pattern Sizing:
6-22. I used a size 8.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? The top portion of the coat is similar to the original coat; the bottom is totally different. More on that below.

The instructions were pretty clear, but I ended up developing my own method of putting the coat together. I spent some time studying the pictures inspiration coat and the pattern pieces. I also studied the construction of some of my ready to wear coats to get an idea of how to attach the lining at the bottom of the coat.
Starting the Process

Fabric Used: I purchased the coating from Ann's Gorgeous Fabrics
Polyester Satin Lining in winter green from JoAnn's Fabrics.
I found the buttons at Vogue Fabrics. In the notions sections Vogue has sale items placed on the counter near the register. One of the on going sales items is a box of buttons. So the customer can fill a cup with buttons, which is provided by Vogue. Each cup sells for $2.00. Well I stood there and selected each button to go into my cup making sure I had enough for the coat.
Buckle was hard to find. So I went to the thrift store to see what I could find there. Found the buckle for $1.60 attached to a belt.




Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I started the process of redrafting the pattern the Tuesday before Christmas.
Redrafting, Fitting and Muslin

Second Fitting

Making more adjustments

Would you sew it again? I probably will not sew this particular version of the coat again. But I will certainly challenge myself with more interesting projects in the years to come. It was a great experience.

Conclusion It was a challenging experience with good results. I made my DD happy.

Urban College Girl - Last Knit Top M4303

I made view C previously with modifications to the sleeve. This is the fifth and final knit top for DD's UCG collection. I've completed most of it with only a vest and pair of slacks to go. This review is of view A.

Pattern Description:
Misses/Miss Petite Tops for stretch knits only. Tops have neckline variations, back zipper closure, topstitching and sleeve variations. Top A and B have sleeves with slanted hems. Top B has lace edging. Top C and D have two piece sleeves and purchased trim. Top C has contrast lower sleeves.

Pattern Sizing:
X-Small to X-Large. I made a small.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Pretty much. I omitted the zipper and front and back neck facings. Instead I used the binding method described in Kwik Sew's Beautiful Lingerie, pages 26 and 27.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes. They were easy to follow.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? My DD likes tops with bell sleeves. No dislikes.

Fabric Used: Knit fabric from Vogue Fabrics

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Only if DD wants another top out of this pattern.

Conclusion Easy top to make.

Urban College Girl - Second Skirt S4961

I made this up after completing the coat.

Pattern Description: Misses' Pleated Skirts in Three Lengths. View D with modifications.






Pattern Sizing: 6 - 20. I sewed size 8.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? The front of the skirt did. I changed the back and added two inches to the length of the skirt.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes. They were straight forward.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Like pleated skirt. Great match for the plaid fabric that I had in my stash. Nothing to dislike.

Fabric Used: Red/Blue plaid from Vogue. Purchased about three years ago.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I dont' know what I was thinking when I purchased this fabric; I only brought 1 1/2 yards. I didn't have enough fabric to properly line up the plaid pattern on the skirt pieces. So I eliminated the two side back panels. I used the center back piece to cover the entire back of the skirt and added darts to fit the waist.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I have many more skirt patterns to try.

ConclusionThis is a great wardrobe builder.

Hoodies - M4675

I've made view C of McCall's 4675 twice before for my DMF. He really likes them. So he asked me to make a few more. Sorry this photo isn't good. No pictures of him wearing it. Maybe he'll let me take one later; but I doubt it. :-)

Pattern Description:
MISSES’, MEN’S AND TEEN BOYS’ TOPS, PANTS, SOCKS AND BLANKET: Tops A, B have V-neck, shaped hemline and contrast binding; top C has side slits and hood with drawstring; pants have casing with drawstring; socks have non-skid bottom; instructions given for blanket with contrast binding.
Pattern Sizing:
X-Small to X-Large. I made an X-Large.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes and No. I added a front pocket using the pocket pattern of Simplicity 5362
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. They were pretty straight forward. Nothing confusing or complicated.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Fabric Used: Anit-Pill Fleece from JoAnn's Fabric

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I made minor design change by adding the pocket. I made three of them: grey, blue, and black. The grey and black have the front pocket with no side opening at the hem. The blue hoodie has the openings, no pocket. I overlocked all of the edges. So I didn't tuck in the raw edges as suggested by the instructions.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes. My cousin wants this same hoodie in a plum colored fleece.

ConclusionThis was a easy hoodie to make. I would recommend it to others

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Inspiration Coat and McCall's 5247 - Part IV

Yesterday I spent the majority of my sewing time redoing things that didn't look good:

1. All of the tabs were ripped out and replaced with tabs that were a combination of the lining and fashion fabric.
2. Ripped out the sleeves and removed the excess in the arm hole area.
3. Replaced the 1/2 inch shoulder pads with 1/4 inch pads.
4. Remade the belt; it was too short by a few inches.
5. Removed the pockets and resewed the side seams.
6. Removed excess from hemline of the lining.

Additional work done:

1. Attached lining to sleeves.
2. Applied interfacing to the hemline of the coat.
3. Top stitched the front and collar.
4. Made button holes.

Today:

1. Go to thrift store to look for a buckle. I have searched the internet and stores. Can't find one that I like for this coat.
2. Hem the lining and coat.
3. Sew on buttons.
4. Tack lining to the shoulder and underarm seam allowance.
5. Attach buckle if I find one.
6. Press and I'm done.

McCall's 4175 - Second Jacket

While I was waiting for DD to come home from work, I sewed another jacket from McCall's 4175. This time view C. I made a few changes.


At the front, I added button loops and a tab/placket (I am not sure what it's called-couldn't find it in any of my reference materials). I have seen this style on RTW garments. (Didn't do the final press yet.)



On the sleeves, I added rhinestones. These I purchased from Hancock's several months ago. The original plan was to add them to a pair of jeans but was concern about the application and the prongs...,



The rhinestone were only applied to the sleeve; not the seam allowance. I used the seam allowance to cover the pronged area to protect the skin and other clothing worn underneath the jacket.