Summery Pleated Top - Vogue V1387

Pattern Description:  Misses' top:  top has self-lined yokes, front pleats, shaped hemline, and very narrow hem.  A, front longer than back and B, back longer than front, wrong side shows,  A: mock wrap, pullover, fitted through bust, no shoulder seams, elasticized tie ends for casing, underarm inset, and armhole bands.  B:  loose-fitting, collar, front bands with snap closing, and long sleeves with pleats, placket and snaps cuffs.  I made view A.

Pattern Sizing:  Size groups (6-14) (16-22)  I used size 16 with modifications.  See previous posts for more information.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, for the most part.  I added two pleats and lengthen the hem a bit. 

 

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical.  The only little hiccup was inserting the the gusset at the lower armhole.  It is important to mark as indicated and sew the exact seam allowance throughout.  For the hem, I never follow the instruction for that.  I stitch two rounds to make the hem.  first round sew hem at 1/8" trim where necessary.  Then, I turn the hem and repeat, no trimming.  This gives me a clean, nice finished rolled hem.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I like the style of the top.  No dislikes.

Fabric Used:  The fabric feels much like a rayon challis, but it doesn't press as easy.  So, I suspect that it is a blend.  I really like it doesn't wrinkle easy.  I purchased it at Hobby Lobby last year.


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  See this post for alterations/adjustments.  Additionally, I made adjustments to the placement of the gathers across the back for better fit near the arm area.  Second, I think the placement of the pleats can also be adjusted to fall more over the bust area. Finally, I added the same width to the lower portions of the top to match the width of the upper bodice.  

Extra:  I shorten the recommended elastic length and made the ties longer. 

 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, I plan to make it again soon.  And yes, I do recommend it to others.

Conclusion: I'm happy with how this top turned out.  It was fairly easy to sew.  This top can be worn during the warmer alone: Or it can be worn in the cooler months layered with a cardigan or jacket. 

Happy Sewing!

C

Notes on a Pattern - Vogue V1387

Today, I wanted to share a few notes on Vogue V1387, view A.  This pattern has been in my collection for a several years.  I hesitated to attempt to make the full bust adjustment (FBA).  I thought about it and determine the following would be the way to go.  There is probably a more effective solution, but this is how I chose to tackle the fit adjustment.

I started with slashing the upper bodice vertically from the pleated area to the waist, adding paper to fill the space.

Next, I added length by slashing the front bodice horizontally.  The same amount of length was added to the back upper bodice (not shown).

Then, I redistributed the pleats and the space between them.  Now, there are three pleats instead of two.

After making these adjustments, I made a muslin to check the fit.  When I tried on the muslin, I identified a few more adjustments needed.  NOTE:  don't skip sewing the armband and gusset. It will help you determine if there is a good fit in the armhole and bust and upper back areas.

Additional adjustments after fitting the muslin:

• more vertical width (front bodice) resulting in a fourth pleats.
• more vertical width across the back.  I noticed pull at the shoulder blades.
• added tuck in the yoke at the upper back.
• added length where the shoulder seam would be.
• reduced fullness at the lower back just above the waist.

More later.

Happy Sewing!

C

The Brocade Makes The Jacket - Butterick B6915

A little over a year ago, I briefly mentioned my work on the muslin for the jacket of this pattern.  Since that time, I did more tweaking of the pattern and decided to use a beautiful brocade that I purchased from Mood Fabrics several years ago during a visit to New York.  

I thought the style of the jacket was the perfect match for the brocade.  Granted I did want to reduce any chance of something going wrong or turning out wonky before I cut into my fabric.  I really love the fabric and wanted to make something special with it.   

We are now in the hot, muggy days of summer.  It was 94 degrees when I took the photos of me wearing my outfit.  Though the coloration of my new suit is bright and cheery, it is perfect for the fall/winter season.  

Pattern Description:  Classic two-piece suit with a twist.  Lined jacket draws asymmetrically across the body and fastens with three buttons.  Jacket features flap detail at front.  Pants come in ankle length and includes invisible zipper on the side.  View C are wide leg pants.  I made view A and B.

Pattern Sizing:  It comes in two size groups (8 - 16) and (18 - 26) I used size 16 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, my outfit does look like the drawing and the suit that the model is wearing.  

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical and easy to follow.  There was nothing confusing about them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  

Likes -

• The asymmetrical style line of the jacket.
• The pleats at the neckline of the jacket
• The princess seam.

Dislikes -

• The one piece sleeve.  I prefer a two piece sleeve for a suit jacket.  These sleeves were snug and there was too much in the sleeve cap for my fabric.  When I made the muslin the amount of ease in the sleeve cap was easy to work into the armhole.  But in the brocade it was slightly difficult.  I had to set the sleeve three times.

Fabric Used:  My fabrics were purchased at Mood Fabrics during a trip to met up with several sewing friends (Carolyn, Andrea, Gaylen)  in New York.  My jacket fabric is a silk brocade and the pants is a medium weight polyester satin.  

 
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I made several pattern adjustments beginning with the full bust adjustment and my usual back adjustments.  I also lengthen the sleeves and added an inch width to the upper arm area.  For the pants I had to lengthen the leg and crotch.  Sorry no photo of that adjustment.

After making the adjustments and a muslin, I still needed to make a few tweaks as I sewed.  Below is a photo of me fitting the lower half of the jacket along side of photo of the finished outfit.  See the difference in the flare of the peplum.  I ripped it all out and reduced the peplum along the sides. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I think once is enough.  But, I do recommend this pattern to others.  You should make a muslin before cutting into your fashion fabric.

Conclusion: I'm pleased with how this suit turned out.  I'll probably wear it the first chance I get when cooler weather returns.  This pattern is not difficult to sew. It's time consuming and you should take your time and enjoy the process.

Utility Jumpsuit - McCall's M7908

I'm so happy to be able to sport my new jumpsuit. It turned out pretty good.  I'm going to make another one. Lol

Utility jumpsuits are somewhat on trend now.  I just like the way it looks.  

Nordstrom $149

Way back in the 70's when I first started making my own clothes, I made a similar jumpsuit out of a knit fabric my late grandmother gave me.  I wish I had a photo of it.   

Anyway, here is my review.

Pattern Description:  Jumpsuits have fitted bodice with princess seams, exposed front zipper, and semi-fitted straight leg pants with neckline, sleeve, pocket and length variations. A, B, C, D neck and B armhole finished with purchased bias tape.  Note: Separate pattern pieces are included for cup size A/B, C, D.

Pattern Sizing:  6 - 22.  I used size 16, cup D, view C with modification.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, my jumpsuits looks like the photo envelope

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical; nothing confusing in them.  But I had a little challenge with getting the base of the exposed zipper presentable. I tested an alternative construction method that I saw on social media; it worked only slightly better than what's in the instruction guide sheet. 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  

Likes -

• The style of the jumpsuit. 
• The stretch denim fabric from Textile Warehouse.
• That the pattern include different pattern pieces for A/B, C and D cup sizes.  It reduced the amount of pattern adjustments for me.
• The princess seams.  Easier to fit.

Dislikes -

• The neckline is too "open" for me.  It stands away from my neck.  Next time I will bring it a little closer.
• The exposed zipper instructions.  It could just be me. Lol

Fabric Used:  I used a stretch woven denim that I purchased from the Discount Textile Warehouse.  It is so forgiving and comfortable to wear.  I prewashed and dried it before cutting into it.  The fabric was softer and easier to work with.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I tweaked the  D cup pattern, swayback adjustment and lengthen the pants leg,  I don't like cropped pants.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, and yes.  I like it well enough to make it again.  And, I do recommend it to other sewists. 

Conclusion:   I'm happy I finally made my jumpsuit.  My sewing buddy, Marcy, was the motivation for getting this made this spring.

Happy Sewing!

C

 

The Thimble

Sewing by hand..., Is it still a thing that sewists do a lot of? Or is it a sewing skill that is less preferred and is rarely used? 

A few weeks ago, a longtime friend asked me if I had ever used a blind hem foot? I had to admit that i had not. I revealed that my refer to hand sew invisible hems. After my answer,  we continued to just talk about sewing and other things. But later that day, I pulled out the many, many sewing machine feet that I own, thinking I should try it. Soon, I pushed them aside and started to pull out my thimbles. I have a few functional and for show ones. 

I actually love handstitching. Beading is a favorite.

One of the first things that I teach young sewing students is some basic handstitching. I also teach them that you can make an entire tailored suit by hand, but you can not make one by machine. 

One of our first projects is to make a needle book by hand. A few examples.

My second question is, what are your thoughts on handstitching? Machine vs. Hand sewing? 

Happy Sewing!

C

Trending: Junk Ties - Simplicity S4762

 

Good evening Sewing Friends,

Have any of you heard of "junk ties?"  Well, Bethanie (one of my friends from church) asked me to make her a denim tie using some jeans that she wanted to "upcycle".  She indicated that she had her own findings to decorate the tie.  

I have seen a few junk ties on Instagram, but I wanted to get a little more information on how to style them as well as what the price points for a finished tie.  What I found online was a wide variety of styles and price points.  Click here is see.   I think junk ties are another canvas to express your own personal style and creativity.  You can style it simple, chic or audaciously over the top.  The price $25.00 to $160.00.  

My challenge, if you will, was to craft a denim necktie for my client to personalize.  Good thing, I have at least ten different patterns that including a necktie.  I chose Simplicity S4762, view E.

This pattern may be OOP, but you can still find it online.  My copy to about twenty years old, and this was my first time view E.  The pattern consists of boys' and men's vests and ties.  The sizes include S - XL.  I used the men's tie, view E.

Before cutting into Bethanie's jeans, I made a prototype just to see how the tie would turn out.  It was exactly as expected and look like the tie pictured on the envelope.  It was a bit narrower then the desired necktie.  The next one, I made it about 1.5" wider, which was closer to the width needed.  (The first two tie were made using some denim from my fabric collection.)  Lastly, I cut into her jeans to make the final tie.  To finish it, I added one of the pockets to jump start the design process.  In total three neckties made to achieve the desire look. 

For some reason, I thought sewing a necktie would be more difficult than making a bowtie.  It was actually easier.  And the instructions were simple and easy to follow.  Definitely, a beginner could easily make a necktie.

I really like how all of the ties turned out, narrow or wide.  I considered making a few more "junk ties" to gift and/or sell.  So, I will definitely make more ties and recommend this pattern to all level sewists.

In conclusion, this was a fun little project.  Each tie took less than an hour to make from start to finish.  Great beginner project with great results.

Here is Bethanie's final design for her personalized "junk tie."

Happy Sewing!

C