An important meeting was scheduled for Monday, first day of my vacation. So I decided to take Friday off and come into the office for the meeting. The rest of this week is reserved for me and whatever I choose to do. Mostly sewing to complete DD's collection coat.
Friday I was able to redraft the pattern and sew the muslin. The process was very time comsuming but well worth it. I was careful in my redrafting of the pattern measuring and calculating every change needed to make the pattern work for the inspiration coat, but I still have to make several more changes based on the muslin fittings one and two.
The first draft of the front and back pattern pieces were too long so I shorten them by 2 1/2 inches. The bodice pattern pieces are cut off 4 1/2 inches below the waist line.
I divided the side front and side back pattern pieces into two sections to follow the style of the inspiration coat. Seam allowances were added to the redraft of these pieces. This was also done to align seams with pleats of the bottom half of the coat.
The collar of the inspiration coat is taller and does not overlap. My first draft of the collar only included more height. DD will decide on the overlap. It gets very cold in Chicago.
The front skirt pattern of the coat is the wideth of the finished front and side front sections plus eight inches for the two pleats. I did the same for the back skirt pattern. Each piece is 16 inches long
Additional pattern pieces needed: Collar tab 7 1/2" long 2 1/2" wide; Belt 20" long, 3: wide (place this piece on fold--will adjust as needed for circumference of hip area--didn't make a muslin yet.); and 4 tabs 6 1/2" long 3" wide; 4 tabs 5 1/2" long 3" wide.
Muslin: I need to decrease the length of the shoulder seam. I included a broad shoulder alteration with the redraft of the pattern. The front and side front joining seam is slightly off. In the bust area, I will decrease the joining seam of the front by 3/4" and increase the joining seam of the side fron by the same amount. The lower part of the bodice needs to be taken in a little, but I won't reduce the side seams until I put the shell of the coat together. I want to make sure DD has enough move to add a sweater or jacket.
The back also requires some adjustment at the seams where the back and side back pieces are joined. At the base of the neck, I will take in the center back seam by 1" at center back. The collar is a waddler. Again, I'll test this as I go on the actually coat to allow for move to layer underneath the coat.
I cut the pattern at size 8; could have cut size 6.