Bold Necklace - Fashion Trend 2008

My best Christmas gift was crafted my DD. In August I posted five must haves and planned to at least make the dress and blouse. Needless to say, neither was made (yet).

The inspiration necklace was priced at about $2 grand. I expressed the desire for the bold gold necklace to my DD (jewelry crafter). She and I went to a new bead store across the street from Vogue Fabrics on Roosevelt to see what they had to offer. We picked up several types of beads, but didn't find any that resembled the bold gold necklace that I wanted.



DD made my first bold necklace from some black marbled stone. It's nice, but didn't quite satisfy the desire. Unbeknownst to me, DD went on a hunt and found an online supplier of gold and silver materials for jewelry crafters. This was her "Big" gift to me for Christmas, and she made a pair of earrings too!

Found the Right Slack - S2860

I am so pleased with the results of this pattern and would encourage you to go out and grab a copy. It's a very good fit without going through my usual crotch curve alteration.

Pattern Description: Misses' pants with individual pattern pieces given for slim, average, and curvy fit. Includes customized fitting instructions.

Pattern Sizing: sizes 8 - 22

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes. There was nothing confusing for me. Great instructions -- Several tips were included on how to make fitting adjustments. They lack instructions on making a sway back adjustment to the waistband and the adjustment on the length of the crotch was different from my normal adjustments. See my adjustment method hear. Also see comparison of M5710 and S2860 here.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? There are a few things that I really liked about it. The claim of an "amazing fit" was achieved. The instructions on how to make the fitting adjustments were pretty good. The pattern seam allowances were 1" instead of the usual 5/8", which is a plus when making adjustments. The process of constructing the pants was different from the typical instructions that you see with the big four, applying the waistband section to each piece of the pant before joining the side seams and CB seams.

Fabric Used: Polyester Gabardine (Vogue Fabrics) for the wearable muslin and very nice wool suiting from Fishman's Fabric.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I only made a few fitting adjustments.
- I added approximately 3 inches to the length. The pattern's inseam measured 33 inches, which enable me to put a generous hem the pant.
- Sway back adjustment to the back waistband.
- The seam allowances were 1 inch. I ended up sewing at 1 1/4" inch allowance. Based on my measurements I collected the curvy version, but I think the average version would have been better for me as far as wearing ease.
- I added a full lining to my second wear (wool), cutting it crosswise.
Assemble the lining, sewing all seams together except for the CF at the zipper opening; then finishing the edges. The lining was cut 2" shorter the pants.



This time I didn't follow my normal process of attaching the lining to the inside of the pants after attaching waistband; then hand stitching the inside of the waistband. Because of the pant construction, I followed the process below: Pin lining to inner waistband. This was a first for me. Only problem, I had a little trouble figuring out how to completely attach it and secure the waistband.



Lining attached to waistband



Next, I attached the lining to the fly/zipper.



There is a slight opening just below the zipper that I didn't attach. During the process I didn't consult any manuals or sewing books. Later I will search for some instructions on making a more polished look.



To secure the waistband, I simply stitched in the ditch of the side seams.



Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Sure will. This pattern fits very well and can be used as a sloper for altering other pant patterns. Additionally, I can use it to add welt or side pockets.

Conclusion: This pattern offers some great fitting options. It is versatile and can be used as wardrobe builder.

The Sloper Pattern - S2860 Fitting Pants PT III

I call this the sloper pattern. It's all about making the perfect fitting pant. The pattern cover says:

- Contoured Waistband - comfortably sits 1/2" below the natural waistline
- Side Seams - Hang straight without pulling toward the front or back
- Center Seam - Has enough room for movement without sagging or creeping

Sounds good, right? Wait it gets better..., The pattern including three patterns for three different body types: slim, average, and curvy. So course, I'm trying it out. Part of my evaluation is to compare it to the adjustments that I currently use for getting the right fit for me.



The pattern instructions are pretty good. They include information of how to determine your figure type and how to select the appropriate pattern pieces for that figure type.



Details on fitting the waistline using darts for each body type.



Illiustrations and instructions on fine tuning the pants as you go.

Illiustration of the body space of the M5710 pattern.

The body space of the Simplicity pattern (2860) is narrower than the space of the M5710.

Here are the back patterns of S2860 and M5710 side by side. I can see the similarity in the shape of the side seam, but the crotch line is different. Based on my measurements, I should use the curvy version of the pattern.Finally, I placed the back of M5710 over the back of S2860 to further compare the two. The crotch curve is quite different. The base of the crotch line falls about 1 1/2" lower than the M5710. I'll see how big of a difference this weekend.

Happy Sewing!
C

Pants - M5710

This fall season I plan to make several pairs of pants. After taking inventory of my fall wardrobe, I realized that many of the pants from last year were worn or in disrepair. So I need to beef up my wardrobe with some new slacks. So I chose this pattern to start the with. I didn't make a muslin; I just started with my usual adjustments then worked from there.

Pattern Description: MISSES’ PANTS IN TWO WIDTHS AND SASH: Semi-fitted, floor length pants have yoke, side front pockets and back zipper; pants A, B have slightly flared leg; pants A has sash; pants B has purchased belt; pants C has flared leg.

Pattern Sizing: 6 - 20. I made size 14; view A

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes. Nothing deceiving about the photo or the drawing.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes. Nothing confusing or difficult. Standard instructions for yoked pants.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The flared leg attracted me to this pattern. After I completed them I remembered I didn't particularly care of pants with a back zipper. With the sash across the opening, it's not as easy to undo and slip off the pants. I don't like all of the adjustments needed to remove them. Next pair I'll make a mock fly for a front closer. Also I think I prefer wearing a wide belt as oppose to a sash. Because of my sway back, the sash doesn't lay as flat as I would like across the back.



Fabric Used: I used a wool blend from my sash, purchased at Discount Textile Warehouse last year.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made my usual adjustments. I also fully lined them.



Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I plan to make at least one more pair this season. I like the cut on these pants. They are comfortable to wear. And yes I recommend them to all level sewists.

Conclusion: These pants are easy to make, very comfortable and stylish.

Finding the Right Slack - McCalls 5710 - Part II

I used the guidelines described in Threads magazine article: "Adjusting Pants from Waist to Seat" to make some of the needed adjustments to fit McCalls 5710.


First, I reduce the length of the back crotch by 1/2 inch. Then I removed 5/8 inch from the center back seam to increase the body space.



Next I added 5/8 inch to the side seam to compensate for the decrease in width.


The front crotch length was decreased by 1 inch. Above are the two pattern pieces side by side to show the body space area. Note the back piece is about 2 inches longer than the front. This compensate for the curve of the buttock and the sway back. Imagine the back pattern piece having flexibility to curve slightly as a sway back would.

Additional adjustments made:

Sway back adjustment of Back Yoke

and

Length the pants by 4 inches.

Stay Tuned! Finished pants post is next.
Happy Sewing!

Tip-Toe Through the Tulips Cadena Mode - Fall 2008

The Cadena Mode Fall 2008 issue is just as beautiful as the previous issues that I own. This is a great fashion magazine. In this issue, Cadena is featuring florals, interesting embellishments, unique silhouettes, the color palette ranging from bold brights to soft neutrals hues. There is something for everyone: classic designs to the latest trendy chic Runway styles.

One of my favorite design elements of this issue is the Tulip. This design is featured in day wear and in eye-catching evening attire.








This Evening Gown - Is not a Tulip, but the skirt imitates flower petals.



Cadena is published in the Spring and Fall and can be purchase at Fishman's Fabric (Desplaines and Roosevelt-Chicago). I've already reserved my copy of the Spring 2009 issue.

All photos from Cadena Mode Fall 2008 magazine.

Play Up Plaids and Stripes

More on Fashion Trends - This fall play up plaids and stripes

Straight Lace - New Look 6824

New Look 6824

I made this dress to wear on the climax of our annual Unity Conference (church) and to celebrate my birthday. Lace is all the rage this year. So I decided to incorporate it into my dress. For the conference, the women dressed in white/ivory and the men dressed in black suits. Hence my color selection.

Pattern Description: Misses Design Your Look Dresses. This pattern includes a variety of necklines, skirts, and sleeves style that can be mixed and matched. I chose the combination of B+C+E+G.


Pattern Sizing: 8 - 18. I made size 14 with my usual fitting adjustments.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? As far as the lines of the illustration, yes it looks like the drawing. I made a few changes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, they were easy to follow. I noticed that there was no instruction to stay stitch the front bodice. I did before clipping the allowance and attaching the side front bodice.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the various options of this pattern, "mixing and matching pattern pieces. You can get a lot of use out of this pattern, creating several different dresses. The pattern also had the vintage style of the 60's, which I love. My dislike is that there were no instructions on how to incorporate lace into the design of the dress. See view B+D+G.

Fabric Used: Polyester lace,dull satin, and lining purchased from Hancock's Fabric.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made my usual fitting adjustments and added lace to the design of the dress.

Fitting:
Front bodice - FBA


Back Adjustment- The necklines of most New Look patterns are too wide for me. So I folded out the excess and rotated the decrease to the waist dart. I also added to the shoulder and armhole seam for more move across my upper back. The one thing that I forgot to do was the sway back adjustment. It does not look too bad, but I recognized it was needed for this particular dress.





Added 2" to the length of the skirt.


Design:

I couldn't find adequate instructions on how to incorporate lace into the dress so I followed/created my own method. I also wanted to use the scalloped edge of the lace at the hem of the sleeves and skirt. So I cut the lace crosswise placing the lace even with the unfinished hemline. I finished the edges of the skirt and sleeves for the satin only. Next, I hemmed each portion of the skirt and sleeves before sewing the pieces together. Then I joined the lace to each piece of the dress, no lace on the collar. After that I constructed the dress following the pattern instructions.





My preference is to completely line my dresses. So I cut the skirt lining to match that of the dress, shortening it by 1 1/2", then attached it at the waistline after machine stitching the hem and back slit.

Dress inside out


I also made a sash, cutting a piece a fabric 5 1/2" inches wide and 55 inches long.

Dress and Sash


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will use this pattern again as there are more design options. And yes I would recommend it to others. It's not difficult to sew and gives the sewers some creative options by combining various bodice and skirt designs within the pattern and with other patterns.

I bought these shoes to wear with the dress, but decided to wear the pair photographed.



Here is my flickr photo set.

Conclusion: I really like this dress. It suits me. My DD says it's very June Cleaver-ish and is not a surprise that I like this style or pattern. A beginner could sew this pattern with no problems.