Monday, October 20, 2008

Finding the Right Slack - McCalls 5710 - Part II


I used the guidelines described in Threads magazine article: "Adjusting Pants from Waist to Seat" to make some of the needed adjustments to fit McCalls 5710.


First, I reduce the length of the back crotch by 1/2 inch. Then I removed 5/8 inch from the center back seam to increase the body space.



Next I added 5/8 inch to the side seam to compensate for the decrease in width.


The front crotch length was decreased by 1 inch. Above are the two pattern pieces side by side to show the body space area. Note the back piece is about 2 inches longer than the front. This compensate for the curve of the buttock and the sway back. Imagine the back pattern piece having flexibility to curve slightly as a sway back would.


Additional adjustments made:






Sway back adjustment of Back Yoke


and
Length the pants by 4 inches.




Stay Tuned! Finished pants post is next.
Happy Sewing!

10 comments:

Carol said...

I'll follow your progress with interest. My pants never fit right, even though I am very close to standard pattern measurements. I've tried a few alterations but I haven't got it right yet. I have the article you mention (the magazine gets a different cover picture here in Australia) so I think it's time to spend a day making pants fit me properly. Looking forward to seeing what you do next.

Birgitte said...

Very interesting, and clear photos with explanations as well. I'm the opposite; flat rear, straight back, so I guess I could reverse... DD on the other hand would need this exact alteration. Thank you :))

Cennetta said...

I'm glad to be of help to my fellow stylists! ;-)
Happy Sewing,
C

Kat said...

Cennetta, You took some length off the front between the crotch and waist--why? Are you going to true the side seams then because they won't match. Maybe I missed something on this.

Cennetta said...

Kat - I didn't true the difference. Instead I eased in the difference at the side seams. It really wasn't that much to ease. Next time I'll consider truing the side seams.

Kat said...

Thank you so much, Cennetta. For some reason I've always had an aversion to doing what you did because the usual sewing mantra is to shorten both the back/front by the same amount. It's nice to know you did your own thing and it worked just fine. You did this because...you find the front crotch too long?

Cennetta said...

Kat - Yes the front crotch line is too long. The curve of my sway back is deep and requires a litte more length. If I shorten them by the same amount, the front of my pants is higher the back at the waistline. So I do this to level the waistline.

Kat said...

I'm going to try doing that to my front if I have a problem with my current pants draft, Cennetta. My front crotch is always too long, and I have the same issue as you.

Anonymous said...

The pants look great on you.
I am a bit confused about the sway back adjustment. Shortening the front is the adjustment? I get wrinkles at the back of the thighs because of my sway back, would these be eliminated if I do the same?
Thanks.

Cennetta said...

Hi Anonymous - Sorry about the confusion. I shorten the front pant because the crotch length is too long. This is done on both front and back back; Just a little more on the front. I make this adjustment because my torso is a little shorter than the standard pattern draft. For the M5710 pant, I made the sway back adjustment on the back facing (waistband) so that it would fit the contour on my back. The shortening of the back pant does help slightly with sag and wrinkles. I hope this helps. Please review the post just before this one for more information on fitting the crotch area of the pant: http://themahoganystylist.blogspot.com/2008/10/pants-finding-best-fit-part-i.html. If this is not clear, please e-mail and I will send you copies on the information that these changes are based on.

Thanks,
Cennetta

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