Thursday, June 11, 2015

Haute Couture Club of Chicago June 2015 Luncheon at Wildfire - Downtown Chicago

Last Saturday the Haute Couture Club of Chicago held it's annual Spring Luncheon at the Wildfire Restaurant in downtown Chicago.  The food was delicious and the company was amazingly delightful.  I cannot say enough about this beautiful group of sewists.

Today I wanted to share some pictures from our luncheon. We come from all walks of life with a broad range of professions from teacher to lawyer to physicist.  It is always a joy to come together to share our passion for creativity and sewing.  At each event I have the pleasure of meeting someone "new".  Not someone new to the club, but new to me. 

I had the pleasure of sitting with Ms. Beatrice and Ms. Jean.  Both ladies are 94 years old.  Imagine that!  They joined the HCC in 1966!  I was only 4 years old.  WOW!  Both taught home economics; they still hold validate drivers' license; and are members of a bowling league.  AMAZING!!!

The old board was honored and the new one installed.  Wendy and Susan will co-chair the fashion show 2016.  Maria will continue as President for the year 2015-16.  I can't remember all of the installations, but here is some photos of the new board. 

The Haute Couture Club of Chicago is a wonderful group of creative people, who come together to learn, share, and explore sewing activities.  Please if you are in the Chicagoland area, you should consider joining the club.  You won't be disappointed.

Happy Sewing!

Wednesday, June 3, 2015

3-Dimensional Floral - Inspiration

Today's inspiration comes from the runways of D&G, Chanel, Stella to name a few. I love their interpretation of florals in their spring collections. Some are subtle and some are over the top. What do you think? Enjoy!

Sunday, May 31, 2015

Python on Stretch Cotton Sateen - Butterick 6169 and Burda 6879

I'm simply loving Moods stretch cotton sateen fabrics. The selection includes gorgeous silky smooth solids to audacious bright prints. The coloration is flawless. These beauties are versatile and are great for summer dresses, pants, skirts and jackets. I recently ordered five different yardages to perk up my spring/summer wardrobe.

By now it's clear that I love a great bold print.  For my jacket, I used beige/brown python printed stretch cotton sateen.  I couldn't pass it up. Wink, wink.  The warm beige solid sateen was perfect for my pants.  The online photo does not do this buttery fabric justice.  It almost looks off white in the photo.  It actually has a soft yellow under tone, which is a great hue against my skin.

This is the first time I used Butterick 6169, jacket and Burda 6879 pants, view B.  There are several things about both I'd liked to point out to fellow sewists who are thinking about trying them.  Let me begin the reviewing process with Butterick 6169.

It is described as semi-fitted lined jacket with shoulder pads, seam detail, welt pockets, exposed zipper and two piece sleeves.  The sizes are from 6 to 22.

This moto style jacket is very popular.  I have a few similar patterns, but I chose this collarless version to test the construction process.  I agree with the average pattern rating.  The construction process was not difficult, but did requires a little more time to install the zipper. There was an error in the instruction #5.  It stated .., pin remaining zipper tape (face down)..,.  It should be face up as the other zipper tape instruction #3 should be installed face down.

After I installed the zipper, I tested zipping it up and down.  It kept getting stuck.  So after I constructed the jacket, I understitched both sides.  This stopped the facing from getting caught in the path of the zipper pull.  The understitching does show, but is not unattractive.

When I was done, my jacket did look like the drawing.  I had to make several adjustments based on my body shape.  I also made a few other changes, my preference. Changes include:

  • Full bust adjustment
  • Sway back adjustment adding the amount of the tuck to the hem of the back pattern pieces
  • Decreased the top of the sleeve by 1/4" to 1/2"
  • I interfaced all four pieces of pattern 1 with a lighter weight interfacing.  This works better for me.  It keeps the sizing and flexibility of all four pieces the same.  It's easier to work with in my opinion.
  • The pocket bag falls below the hem.  So I trimmed off some of the seam allowance to avoid bunching up the pocket between the jacket and the lining.  I posted this on Facebook a few days ago and Kenneth King stated to allow the pocket to sit in the jump pleat at the hem of the lining.  Next time.

  • I only ordered two yards of the python sateen.  So I ended up "piece milling" the front facing.  This is something my grandmother shared during one of our many conversations about sewing years ago.  It does not look too bad if I must say so myself.
  • Added an inch to the length of the sleeves.
I really like how my jacket turned out. The python print is definitely the speaker in the jacket, but the neutral color will allow me to get quite a bit of wear out of it.  I can pair it with neutrals, brown, off-white, orange just to name a few colors.  This jacket is a winner.  I may make it again, possibly in a faux or genuine leather.

Now for the pants.  Burda 6879 offers some interests to the pants leg and the back yoke. See my latest installment of "Notes on a Pattern" .  

These pants have a slim pant leg with over-lay option.  Top open front pockets, three piece back yoke and belt loops.  The sizing is from 8 to 18.  It is recommended that you use stretch fabrics:  cottons, gabardine, lightweight wools and imitation leather for the contrasting fabric.

My pants did look like the drawing.  The instructions easy; nothing difficult or confusing. My likes are noted in my Notes on a Pattern post.  No dislikes.  I really like this pants pattern and will definitely use it again.

With all pant patterns I need to make a few changes starting with lengthening them at least 3 inches.  For these I added about a 1/2 inch to the side seam allowance.  I was afraid the sateen did not have enough stretch in it.  I made a small crotch adjustment for the front pant and slightly changed the curve of the crotch on the back pant.  For the back yoke I increased the width of the seam allowance for a closer fit at the waist.

I like these pants and will use the yoke and pocket for other pants.  And I recommend the pattern to others.  You may need to tweak the pattern a bit as they fit close from the waist to the knee.

The overall outfit is a success.  I love the stretch cotton sateen offerings at Mood Fabrics.  So you will see a few more garments sewn using them.  I recommend the sateen.  There is a sizable online selection to choose from.  The colors are vibrant and the hand is smooth and soft.  No fussing with sewing or pressing.

Try them.  That's all for now.

Happy Sewing!

Wednesday, May 27, 2015

Preview of Simplicity Dress 1103 - Three Dimensional Flowers

Here's a preview of my newest Simplicity Dress 1103.  It includes three dimensional flowers. This is not something that I would have previously considered.  One of the Haute Couture Club member, Andrea is the inspiration/encouragement for this dress.

Also, I been the embellishment in current online runway photos.  Review later.

Happy Sewing!

Tuesday, May 26, 2015

Notes on a Pattern - Burda 6879 and Vogue 1436

Last week I finished my wearable muslin for Burda pants 6879 (will review soon).  I bought this pattern because of the pockets, the overlay on the front pant and back yoke design.

The Pockets -

The pockets are much like the pockets you see on jeans, the opening is below the waistband instead of at the side upper hip.  In recent years, I've had issues with pockets that open at the hip.  The small "pot in my belly" causes the pocket to stand out.  I hate that look.

But against my better judgement, last year I made another pair of side pocket pants.  And the unattractive pocket opening stood out like a sore thumb.  Quickly, I added a buttonhole and button to close the gaping pockets.  Their must be a better way to resolve the gaping side pocket.

So Burda 6879 is one quick fix solution.  I came up with the "idea" of transferring this pocket design to other pants that I like.  My first attempt is with Vogue 1436.  I'm making these pants next week.

Overlay on the Front Pant -

The overlay is just another design element to jazz up a pair of pants.  It gives you the option to use lace or stretchable leather/suede in a contrast fabric.  Great design option.

Back Yoke -

There two pattern pieces for the back yoke.  The finished yoke has three sections: two sides and a center piece.  It's another great design option as well as an opportunity to make no hassle adjustments.  With most jean or back yoke patterns the back of the pant stand away from my waist.  The side and center york are join wear you would make a dart.  So it's easy to make deeper seam allowances without distorting the look of the yoke.  This is another option I will use for back yoke pants.

That's all for now.

Happy Sewing!

Friday, May 22, 2015

Black and White

I love the combination of black and white. This year alone I've already made two dresses. More to come later this year. In the meantime, here is some inspiration from the runway.

 Enjoy! Cennetta


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