Friday, October 12, 2018

Mood Taupe Sweater Knit Rayon - Perfect for TNT T-Shirt Dress Vogue 1314




Now, who doesn't love a great t-shirt dress?

My latest dress made is my TNT V1314 t-shirt dress in Mood's Taupe Sweater Knit Printed Rayon Jersey.  Believe me, this one fabric you don't want to pass up!  It is a super soft beefy knit.  It really doesn't look like sweater knit, but it's much thicker than your average rayon jersey.  The drape is fluid, and it lays gently against the skin.  It is great!











Vogue 1314 is in high rotation on the cutting table.  This is the third dress that I've made this year.  And I've used the pattern a total of eight times so far. ;-)

Guess what?  This will not be the last time you see this pattern made up in some amazing fabric.  It's quick and very easy.  From cutting table to hem, it's takes me about 2.5 hours to crank one of these babies out.  Perfect go to pattern when you need a simple, cute dress that is also great staple that you can dress up or down.

I like wearing this version with shoes that pop and a great statement shoulder bag.


With that being said, I'm off to a great start with my Fall wardrobe. Quick, easy, and ready for the crisp, cool breeze of the fall season.  That's all for now!

Happy Sewing!
C

Wednesday, October 10, 2018

McCall's Flounce Top Is Not The Top For Me - M7687



I so wanted this top to work for me.  But what was I thinking?  The volume of this top was all wrong for me.  My bad!

My goal of posting this review is to get all of my projects posted before the end of this year: good or bad; success or failure; in my closet or not.  This one falls in the category of failure to compliment my figure.  I started this project way back in June with a muslin minus the flounce. I completely worked out the fit and style issues.  So I thought.


As far as the sewing review is concern, making the top was a success.  I was able to achieve a good fit (I'll try a different view later.). The sewing process was not difficult and the instructions were typical, but easy to follow.

Just to be consistent with other reviews, let me include a few more points about the sewing experience process:

Pattern description and size:   Fitted tops have front and back princess seams, back button closure, and sleeve variations.  Sizes 6 to 22.  I started with size 16 with modifications.

My likes and dislikes:  First my likes; the sleeve variations and the flounce version.  My dislike:  back button closure.


Fabric:  This cotton voile came from Mood Fabrics.  It's a beautiful fabric to work with.  I'd hoped to post this project on the Mood Sewing Network; but because I wasn't all together happy with it, I chose not to.

Changes and alterations:  After making the FBA, I ended up with a lot of unwanted fabric below the bust area.  This always happens and I always forget to just remove it before I make the muslin.  It the same every time.  With this top, I noticed it was also a little roomy in the neck and shoulder areas.  But once I tweaked the muslin and made the changes to the tissue pattern, it was good to make.  Not to forget, I also did a prominent shoulder blade adjustment with a swayback tuck at the waistline.  I added a short sleeves.


Final notes:  The sewing process was fine.  I just made the wrong view for me.  I will donate the top to someone who likes it.  The back button closure is not my favorite detail, but I give it at least one more try.

Parting Shots:  Me wearing the top with another of my less favorable projects from the summer.  I'll review McCall 7726 soon.  In the meantime, make it a great day. 




I used the remnant to make seam binding for my Butterick 6329 jacket/cardigan.





Tuesday, October 9, 2018

DD's Swimsuit - No Longer A UFO! Butterick 6358 and McCall 7578


I'm so happy to finally post my first swimsuit ever.  I cut this suit out early LAST year for my daughter.  While organizing my September projects, I found this on top of one of my "to make" bags of sewing projects.  Mentally, I'm shook my head and said, "This does not make any sense."  Sew this up today.  And I did.  It was literally the first project that I finished in September.


My DD wanted a bikini and selected the top of McCall-view A M7578 and bottom Butterick-view B  B6358.  Of course, anything for the kid, I mean almost anything. Wink, wink.  We went to JoAnn's to get the fabric.  They have a fairly large selection of activewear fabrics.  For this suit, we didn't need I lot. 

I used a Schwertz microtex sewing needle, size 12



So, let me start with the bikini pants.  B6358 - Lined swimsuits are close-fitting, cut on crosswise grain, and elasticized.  B: Tie ends.  I used size 12.

I loved making these.  This was a fun project that turnout very well.  The fit was spot on.  The cute little tie and the peep hole add interest to a common bikini style.  Sorry no pictures of her wearing the suit.  I tried.., she said, "No, photo shoot for me." 

I followed the instruction and had no problems.  They really went together in no time at all.  They are completely lined with a white swim knit. I used a 3/8" cotton elastic for the legs and the center back section.  To finish the elasticized seams, I used a stretch zigzag stitch.  I finished the waistband on the serger.  That's it.  No time at all to make them.


Next, for the bra I used McCall 7578, view A.  It's really a workout top (to me anyway); my DD wanted to use it instead of the bikini bra that is include with Butterick 6358. 






M7578 -  It's described as close-fitting lined pullover bra with front and back princess seams.  I contracted the front and back to match the bikini pants.  Again, I used size 12, with modifications this time.

The bra was also easy to sew and is fully lined.  I just followed the instructions and had no problems.  Once I sewed the outer shell together, she tried it on.  Unlike the bikini pants it was too large in the bust area.  I simply increase the depth of the seams to get a better fit.  For the front and the neckbands I could have used size 10 instead. 

All in all both projects went together very quickly with minimal adjustments needed.  This experience has encouraged me to try a few more swimsuit projects.

Stay Tune!
C



Monday, October 8, 2018

Vogue 1352 - A Seemingly Easy Vogue Dress





I love wearing maxi dresses. Especially a comfortable one.  My review today is on a Rebecca Taylor Vogue pattern (V1352)  It's been out for a few years, copyright 2013.  When it was first published, I hesitated on buying it.   Then after about two years, I did.  If it works; good.  If not, in the trash it goes.

You're wondering why I hesitated?  The "required" FBA and the possibly of me not being able to get the "perfect" neck binding finish.  The FBA with all that gathering could be a bad look on me.  And who wants I wonky neckline on top of that. Anyway..,

There are only five pattern pieces.  Sounds pretty easy, right?  For the most part it was once I tweaked, tweaked it.


This is a pullover maxi dress with a gathered neckline. The front is a mock wrap bodice with a small inverted triangle at the center front.  It has short sleeves, and an elasticized waist.  I used size 16 with modifications.  Some I could have skipped if I may add.

The pattern is available in two size groupings:  (8-16) and (16-24).

The drawing and photos do look very much like my dress.  My neck binding is wider  because I didn't do the folder process.  I like the wider binding and the front opening drapes just a little, but the modeled dress does not.  I didn't think about making a tuck along the opening to reduce the length of it.   If I make it again, I'll make that adjustment.  Also, the back neckline is much lower on the modeled dress.  And I think my dress has a little more wearing ease than the one pictured on the envelope.


My fabric is a jersey knit from Vogue Fabrics in Evanston.  I bought three yards and knew that I'd make a maxi dress out of it.  I love the colors and the smooth hand of this knit.  It has a nice weight and great recovery.  I used a microtex sewing needle, size 12.

The instructions were typical and easy to understand.  But I didn't follow then to the letter. I also made a few fit adjustments.  All noted below:

  • I didn't do the double needle top stitches along the front and to hem the sleeve.  And no top stitching on the neck binding.

  • The first time I attached the neck binding I followed the instructions: basting it and matching the notches and circles, with right sides together.  When I tried it on, it didn't lay flat as illustrated on the envelope. So, I decided to take a break and think about how to make it work.  After a  day or two, I tried it on again to determine the amount of excess binding to remove.  The neck binding was about six inches too long.  Luckily, I did not removed the gathering stitches.  I measured each section of the dress bodice: front 6.5; sleeve 4.125; and back 5.5 (I created a center back seam that wasn't needed.  More below on that.).  For the neck binding, I reduced each section by an inch and removed the basting  so I could stretch the band to fit each section of the neckline.  I did not change the location of the center front large circles where the front opening is attached.  If that makes sense.  The results were perfect.  The band lies flat and smooth.  I didn't in case the raw edges of the binding.  Maybe next time.  I like the width of the binding as shown on my version of the dress.





Portion of the neck binding with the new marking on it.



  •  The construction of the sleeve was a little weird too.  The ends are not sewn together, but overlapped at the top of the side seam.  If you follow the instructions, you'll end up with raw edges showing on the right side of you dress.  I curved the outer end into the armscye so that no raw edges were exposed.  Note:  the armhole is wide and low.  It wouldn't hurt to raise the armhole about an inch or two.  That will eliminate the exposure of your under garments.

  • I didn't cut the back on the fold.  I should have.  This dress is roomy and I really didn't require a prominent shoulder blade adjustment.  Anyway, the center back seam took up the added width of that adjustment.  Save..,
  • Full bust adjustment - just a small one to add a little width and length.  This FBA does not create I bust dart.  

  • Finally, I added a few inches to the length of the dress.
After working through all those changes and adjustments, I still like the dress for the ease of wear, the mock wrap bodice, and the gathered neckline.



I have an obscene number of dress patterns to try, but I'll kept this one for me just in case I want to make it again.



Vogue rated this dress as easy to make.  It is once you've worked out the kinks.  Remember, it's very loose fitting.  The armholes are low and the neck binding may be too long.  Other than that it's good.

Happy Sewing!
C








Friday, September 28, 2018

Style Maker Fabric Fall/Winter Tour






It's feeling much like fall these days.  I love the cool crisp mornings and the sunny afternoons that the Autumn season brings.  Fall also marks a new season to start a new wardrobe.  My first two fall garments are made with Style Maker Fabrics.  They have an entire store of new, beautiful textiles to start your new fall wardrobe with.

I'm new to Style Maker Fabrics.  Michelle contacted me to join the SMF Tour group and I'm glad I did.  It was a good introduction to work with her great fabric.  Through Instagram I learned about SMF and their textiles.  But had never made a purchase.  Now I will definitely use their fabrics again.

The new fall collection has so many lovely fabrics to pick from.  It was so hard for me to pick something; I wanted about 10 different fabrics at first look.  Forcing myself to select two (my choice), I focused on my color palette for fall.  Fall colors earthy; deep and vibrant colors like burnt orange, chocolate brown, firm and ever greens, and golden yellows.  These are some of my colors for fall.



I love a good print and I love sewing neoprene/scuba knit.  So, I just couldn't pass up the splattered paint rust, black, and sage scuba knit. The scuba knit was great to work with.  It has an impeccably smooth hand. The stretch is tight and great for active wear as well as fit and/or flare coordinates.  I love it.


My pattern an oldie but goodie Simplicity 1314.  I've made two other dresses using it.  So I decided to add a handpicked beaded zipper.  Luckily for me, I finished it in time to make it my annual "birthday dress".  More on pattern adjustments here







My second choice was a rust medium weight textured cotton cloth; soft and a dream to sew.  Amy also selected this fabric making the cutest cuffed pants.



I wanted to start by fall wardrobe sewing with a jacket/cardigan to help fight back the early morning or the night chill of the Midwestern winds.  I also wanted to make something that was special.  This fabric has a very rich color with the right and wrong sides looked the same.  So I chose a unlined jacket, Butterick 6329, view D.

This jacket is described as an unlined jacket with a snap closing.  It's relatively easy to sew and the style line is relaxed and had quite a bit of wearing ease.  I was able to skip my usual fitting adjustments only making slight changes along the side seams and adding 1/4" to the center front.  Because of the simplicity of the pattern, I decided to add something special to this piece as well.  Hong Kong finished seams was the perfect element.  This additive made the inside pop.  Every edge of the jacket sections is finished except for seam the that joins the facing to the jacket.







I really love how this jacket turned out. And I hope to make a few more possibly using the recommended medium weight moderate stretch knit fabric.  For the most part, I constructed the jacket as indicated omitting the topstitching around the front and neckline.  I did not add a snap either.  The instructions were easy and typical.  If you decide to make it, make sure you carefully mark the large circles and match them as instructed.


The sewing process was great for both projects.  I used a microtex schwertz needle, size 12. The pressing was easy and resulted in a crisp finish.  Both garments will be in high rotation this fall and winter.  I've already worn my dress on Sunday.






So in conclusion, I highly recommend that you take a look at the selection of new fall fabrics at Style Makers Fabrics.  I also recommend both patterns:  Simplicity 1314 and Butterick 6329.

Happy Sewing!
C




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