Monday, June 11, 2018

Summer Jumpsuit Brown, Black and White Striped Rayon Twill - Vogue 9260




Summer time sewing! 
 I was so happy when the rain stopped. Being so anxious to show you my latest sewing project, I quickly got ready to take a few pictures outdoors.  



This jumpsuit was half finished for about two weeks.  Friday evening I was determined to finish it.  This lovely brown, black, and white striped rayon twill was purchased several months ago from Mood online store.  It's still available.  It has a smooth hand and it's floaty.  Perfect for the summer time comfortable.  This new jumpsuit is perfect vacation sportswear.  Of course, it's good to wear for Saturday lunch with the girls or a nice stroll in the park with your better half.  Rayon is easy to press, but does wrinkle a bit.  No worries with this fabric.  The stripes makes them barely noticeable.

The pattern that I used to make it is Vogue's very easy 9260, copyright 2017.  I think I bought it last year, but I hadn't decided on how I would style it.

The description is very brief:  very loose-fitting pull on romper and jumpsuit have cold should and length variations.  The "cold shoulder" description shoulder be "cold arm" instead.  It comes in two size groupings:  XS-S-M and L, XL,XXL.  The second grouping was the only copy at the Orland Park JoAnn's. So I just bought it with the thought of adjusting it as needed. So I used the large and scaled it down.  I guess somewhere between a medium and large.  As the large was much too big for me.  This pattern has a lot of style ease.  The finished bust is 48.5 inches and the finished hips is 50 inches.  Both well above my measurements. I scaled it back at least 4 inches in both areas.

My finished jumpsuit looks similar to the drawing.  I don't think the "cropped" pants is quite the look for me.  So I lengthened the pants by several inches so that the hem falls around the heel of my shoes.  Outside of that it does look like the drawing.

The instructions were a piece of cake.  Nothing difficult or confusing.  (It seems like I always say that. ;-) )

I like the style of it.  The drawstring, the cold arm, and the wide pant leg.  No real dislikes.





I did make a few more changes in the construction of it.
  • Instead of purchasing cording, I made my own.  Cutting the fabric on the bias about an inch wide, two pieces 12 inches long for the loops and one piece 20 inches long for the drawstring.   Plus it is a perfect match for the jumpsuit.
  • I added 1.5 inches to the length of the bodice.
  • The raw edges were serged.  To finish the cold arm opening I only turned the cloth once.  So you can see the serged edges.
  • The instructions say to cut the elastic the measure of your waist plus an inch.  I cut it 5 inches smaller.
I will make it again.  I think I will use the bodice and make a skirt waist dress instead of a jumpsuit.  I do recommend this fabric and the pattern to others.  The fabric is perfect for those fun floaty summer projects that you might be planning.  The pattern is very easy and does not take long to sew.  


Side Note- I was a little worried about how the photos would turn out.  I had a chemical facial peel and laser hair removal less than 24 hours before the pictures were taken.  I'm glad that they were publishable as I didn't want to wait another day before posting something to the Mood Sewing Network blog and my own blog.

Happy to be back sharing my sewing adventures and hope to post again soon.  

Have a great one!







Wednesday, June 6, 2018

Eyes Closed Shut in Simplicity 4112




I cannot for the life of me figure out why my DD always has her eyes closed when I trying to take pictures.  This time I decided to go ahead with the posting, instead of taking more pictures again.

Another early spring 2018 project finally making it to the blog.  The (S4112) pattern is out of print, but still fashionable.  When I approached her with the idea to make a blouse, I was aiming for the another view pictured on the envelope.  She favored the second view.  So that what I made.

She is wearing it with a denim skirt that I made for my sister many years ago.  (No review on that today.)  

Simplicity gives sparse descriptive information.  All is stated is misses shirt and sash.  I will add Nehru or mandarin collar, button up with two sleeve variations.  Sizes 4 to 20.  I used size 12 with modifications.  

This was a fairly easy blouse to sew.  The instructions were typical and I did not see anything confusing in them.  There are a few pattern flaws and construction steps that I'd like to point out.  But first, I must say that this is a wearable muslin.  Because I didn't make one; I should have all things considered.

  • The front and back pattern length are different.  Matching up the notches, the back is slightly longer than the front.
  • There is more ease in the neckline.  I made it work by easing, soft gathering to make it fit.
  • There is some pulling at the neckline.  That could be due to my daughter's square shoulders.  Something that I have adjusted in the past, but some how forgot for this project.
  • The armhole has more curve in it than expected, considering setting/curve of the sleeve, even with gathers, if that makes sense.
I like the sleeve variations and the longer hemline with the sash.
No real dislike beyond the small things mentioned above.

The fabric that I used came from Vogue Fabrics in Evanston.  I think I bought it a few years ago.  It's a lightweight cotton blend.  Easy to sew and press.  Perfect for a button up shirt.

I doubled the front facing to help support the buttonholes and buttons.  To make the buttonholes, I sewed each once then again to get a nice even stitching.


The minor flaws are just that; easy to correct.  So this is a pattern that I would consider using again for her and maybe myself.  I have two copies. 

Anyway, this one is a short review on a pretty simple blouse to sew.

Happy Sewing!
C



Tuesday, June 5, 2018

V1570 In Black and White






This is another outfit that I started while at Sew Camp Spring 2018.  All fabrics purchased at Fabric Mart.  I actually didn't bring any fabric with me on purpose.  The goal was to purchase fabrics to sew while at camp and to purchase fabrics to be shipped home.  

Between the two coordinates, I was most interested in making the pants.  I am always on the hunt for bottoms that give me a little volume to help balance out my silhouette.  The drape was interesting and added just a little imaginary hip.  Looking at the model on the envelope, she reminds me of a former me.  Way back when I was a rail.  Time has past and I'm a much bigger lady.  The good news is I can sew whatever I want.

Anyway, this outfit is part of a pseudo wardrobe capsule that I kind of decided to do as I shopped the floors at FabricMart Fabric.  I like both coordinates, but I think I like them better with other pieces.  More on that as I continue to work on the capsule.  


I used Vogue 1570 for my outfit.  It is described as A: fitted top has front and back princess seams, back invisible zipper and asymmetrical hem.  Fitted pants have back invisible zipper and front overlay. It comes in two size groupings 6-14 and 14-22.  I used 14 and 16 with modifications.

My finished garments do look like the drawing on the pattern envelope.  There was nothing in the instruction or construction of the outfit that was confusing.  I did, however, have to do a little tweaking with the neckline and one of the armholes appeared to be slightly larger than the other.  More on that later.

I had a lot of likes for this pattern:





Top:
  • Shoulder seam.  It's not straight on, from ear to center shoulder tip.  It curves around to the front.  That's a cute detail.
  • Asymmetrical hem.
  • Peak a boo front yoke
  • Topstitching

Pants:
  • Overlay as stated above
  • Slim pant leg - easily worn with a variety of tops.  Sews up quickly.
The top is a lightweight striped cotton blend pique, which I thought would be perfect to play up the design lines of the top. It is softer than most piques that I've own/touched.

The pants is a lovely medium wool crepe.  Love, love this fabric.  I wish they had more in other colors.  I bought all they had.  Same for the pique.

There were a few challenges with the top.  I almost gave up on it.  After I made my usual adjustments, I had to do quite a bit of tweaking along the side seams, below the bust and in the armhole areas.  I think I ripped out the sleeves at least three times before getting it to a good, not perfect, state.  Once that was done, The front neckline gapped a bit more on one side.  Odd.  So I ended up undoing quite a bit of topstitching to adjust the length of the front neckline.  Truth be told after all that tweaking, I can't remember how much for each tweak. Lol  



The pants were easy.  I extended the back curve about an inch tapering into about four inches into the inseam.  At the center back, I raised it about an inch or so and tapered to zero near the dart.  The front pant does not have darts.  Knock it off!!  No way!! I added some.  Lastly, I lengthen the pants by three/four inches.

I plan to make both coordinates again.  At least one more top, for my sister. And one pants without the overlay.  It's a nice fit. After all those adjustments, I need to make them at least one more time.

I'm glad I was able to workout the kinks.  These are two pieces for my black and white capsule.  More in months to come.  I do recommend it, because of the likes I mentioned above.

Happy Sewing!
C





Monday, June 4, 2018

McCall 6886 Easy T-Shirt Dress Hacked at Sew Camp Spring 2018




It's always a good day to talk about my sewing adventures.  Especially when the sun is shining and I have at least three pictures to share while I talk about it.  This dress was finished almost two months ago. 

Finally, I was able to take a few pictures of me wearing it.  I started and almost finished it at Sew Camp Spring 2018.  On our shopping day, I decided to purchase another copy of McCall 6886 from Fabric Mart.  It was only 25 cents.  I thought it would be a perfect project at the retreat.

This is a very basic t-shirt dress pattern that has three different necklines and three different lengths.  Actually, you can make the length whatever you want.  It comes in sizes 6-22, which is great.  I think this is the type of pattern all of us sewists should have in their collection.  There are so many possibilities.  And it can be used as a sloper to create and adjust other patterns for knit tops and dresses.



I purchased this really great knit with good color and recovery.  I didn't decide to use it for the dress until we returned from our shopping day.  My project started with, of course, cutting out the pattern; then making my usual fit adjustments.  Starting with size 14, I made a FBA, swayback, and prominent shoulder blade adjustments.

Before my adjustments, I decided on the length of the dress minus the flounce that I created.

FBA - I slashed and spread the front about 2" creating a bust dart slightly rotated for a more flattering look.  Because the spread was more than an inch, I used the Palmer-Pletsche "Y" FBA.  After all the slashing and spreading, I removed some of the excess width below the  bust area.  See picture below.




Swayback - To start, I made a tuck in the back pattern where my back curves to eliminate the pooling of fabric.  Next, I created an even more pronounced curved line along the lower back area where I made the tuck.  At the hem, I added the same amount that was tucked at the lower back.


Prominent Shoulder Blade -  Here again, I slashed and spread the desired amount and added a dart at the shoulder seam.  This adjustment gives me enough room across my upper back.

The flounce was so easy to create.  First, I determine the length.  Then added seam allowance to that number.  Next, I measured the width of the front and back of the dress.  Then, I cut one rectangle for the front and one for the back.  If the width of the front and back are the same, you only need one.  Next, I made slashes about every inch and spread the tissue for the desired  amount.


The flounces were sewn together.  Then attached to the bottom of the dress.  No hemming required.


More Changes:

I used a black lycra knit for the sleeve and neckband.  To finish the sleeve, I added a band in the dress fabric.  This I thought was a nice finishing touch.  Plus it breaks up the pattern of the dress.  The pattern neckband is always too long.  I generally shorten it by about 2" to eliminate gapping.




The style lines dress were the same as the drawing with the exception of the flounce.  For me, everything about the process was pretty easy.  Even the drafting of the flounce.  This is something a beginner can do with no problems.


What I like about it?

Everything: the pattern adjustment, drafting, sewing and wearing it. I really like the movement of the flounce around the bend of my legs.   So, I'm cutting another one cut this week.



Stay tuned!

Cennetta

Friday, June 1, 2018

Highlights - My How Times Flies

Hello June!

The months of April and May went by so fast.  It's a blur to me because both months were jam packed with events and activities.  There were a few moments, actually a lot of moments were I did sew.  But that is as far as it goes.  Many projects to share.  I just need to take photos.

So, let me give the highlights of my many events and activities:

House

Starting from early March, I had some pre-estimates done for water seepage in my basement.  I couldn't believe it.  I've only lived here about 2.5 years.  So you can imagine my frustration with the entire situation.  Of course, I will spare you all the details.  Anyway, Everdry will start working on resolving the problem early Monday morning.  I hate having work done.  It's such an inconvenience.  But it's necessary.  The affected area are the crawl space, sewing studio, and laundry room. This entire situation has occupied too much of my thinking time and has kept me up at night trying to figure out how to best tackle the situation.  Today, I am at the point of, "let's get it done."  On the positive, after it's done I will finally start to organize my sewing studio.  Okay enough on that.

Haute Couture Club

The HCC fashion show was on May 5th.   I had twelve outfits modeled.  That's a record for me.  My daughter, sister and I each modeled four outfits.  This should never happen again. ;-) 

The hard work and effort made by the club members help make the show a success.  It always makes me happy to see all the ladies lined up back stage awaiting their turn to strut the runway in the custom made clothes.  It is certainly a proud moment for everyone that participates.  Now that it is over, I can calm down and start to think about what I might want to put in the show next year.

The HCC June banquet is tomorrow at the Yacht Club of Chicago.  This will be the final event for the 2017-2018 year.  Currently, I serve on the Board of Directors as the Nominating Committee.  This post is supposed to be for two years.  I served for three.  The installation of the 2018-2019 board is part of the activities planned for the day. We will have a guest speaker,  Professor Sandra Henderson-Williams, who has worked in the fashion industry for over three decades. I'm looking forward to attending.

We welcome new members.  Please go to our website On the homepage you can click the link under "join or renew your membership today!"








Mood Sewing Network

I'm playing catch up.  Several garments made with Mood Fabric, but no posting in awhile.  So, hopefully this weekend I'll get the pictures I need to complete the posts.

Sewing Projects

In summary, I made:  1 coat for my daughter (fashion show); 1 blouse for my daughter; 1 dress for me, 4 pairs of pants for me; 2 tops for me; and 1 jumpsuit for me.  These are the garments I hoped to blog about this month.

Fabric

OMG!  I have amassed a huge amount of fabric over the past two months.  I need to sew like the wind!  There are many, many ideas in my head for summer and fall.  Starting with some summertime sewing.  I purchased several yardages of green textiles.  Most of it I want to have sewn before September.   Take a look.  Pretty, right?  Anyway, I love them all.





Other Fun Events

Spring Spa Weekend at the Fontana Avani Spa at beautiful Lake Geneva.  I love this place.  My sister, cousin, and bestie also made the track up to Wisconsin for a fabulous spa weekend.  Here is the link if you are interested:  Fontana Avani Spa Resort




Doc's patient and staff appreciation cook out in Pottawattomie, Indiana.  Great food, location, music, and great time.
Part of the band


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