Today, I wanted to share a few notes on Vogue V1387, view A. This pattern has been in my collection for a several years. I hesitated to attempt to make the full bust adjustment (FBA). I thought about it and determine the following would be the way to go. There is probably a more effective solution, but this is how I chose to tackle the fit adjustment.
I started with slashing the upper bodice vertically from the pleated area to the waist, adding paper to fill the space.
Next, I added length by slashing the front bodice horizontally. The same amount of length was added to the back upper bodice (not shown).
Then, I redistributed the pleats and the space between them. Now, there are three pleats instead of two.
After making these adjustments, I made a muslin to check the fit. When I tried on the muslin, I identified a few more adjustments needed. NOTE: don't skip sewing the armband and gusset. It will help you determine if there is a good fit in the armhole and bust and upper back areas.
Additional adjustments after fitting the muslin:
- more vertical width (front bodice) resulting in a fourth pleats.
- more vertical width across the back. I noticed pull at the shoulder blades.
- added tuck in the yoke at the upper back.
- added length where the shoulder seam would be.
- reduced fullness at the lower back just above the waist.
More later.
Happy Sewing!
C
Thanks so much for taking the time to document your process as you work through your voyage of discovery. It is so helpful to know that adjustments are not always easy to know on the first pass…Chris in FL
ReplyDeleteMy pleasure, Chris. Over the years I've learned a lot from the sewing community. I, too, want to help in any way I can.
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