Notes on a Pattern - McCall M7929

Today's "Notes on a Pattern" is for McCall M7929.  

I couldn't skip this step in the fit process.  I wanted to be sure about the fit before I cut into my fashion fabric.  Luckily, the changes that I initially made to the tissue pattern were very close to what is needed to make this top work for me.  

In these notes, my main focus was the fitting the front bodice.  My muslin is a combination of view B and D.  It helps me to see how it all comes together and how it will look on me.

Below are the tissue pattern changes.  Here I made a full bust adjustment (FBA).

For the bodice back, I made swayback adjustment and I adjusted the back pattern for a zipper closure instead of a button closure.  Please forgive the pencils and pens.  I used them to hold the pattern pieces in place.  On both front and back I raised the neckline a little.  I hate how low pattern fall on me.

Now, to look at the outcome of my changes.  For the FBA, the bottom edge of the cup is now longer than  the midriff.  To reduce length,  the excess needed to be removed.  So on one side I made a dart and the other I ease in the excess.  I liked to dart better.  So, in my fashion fabric I will make a dart at the lower section of the cup.  

The back is very good with this muslin.  So I don't think I need to make any more substantial changes.  Maybe a little tweaking here and there.

The next is to determine whether to make the top or add a skirt to the top for a dress.  Stay tuned.

Happy Sewing!

C

Sewing Updates

Hi everyone,

July is almost over! Can you believe it?  

It seems like the month of July flew by.  We are already more than half way into 2025, and I just got used to writing 2025.  Lol

Anyway, it has been a very busy month full of festive celebrations and plenty of sewing for me.  As part of my 2025 sewing goals, I wanted to purge, organize, and sew my stash.  This month, I was quite successful.  I have plenty to share over the next few weeks.  Many of my newly finished projects have not been photographed with me wearing them.  But I hope to get photos soon.  

My greatest focus has been on sewing my stash to reduce the amount of fabric that I have to organize in the fall.  

So stay tuned for more on my recent sewing projects.

Happy Sewing!

Cennetta

Notes on a Pattern - Vogue V1387

Today, I wanted to share a few notes on Vogue V1387, view A.  This pattern has been in my collection for a several years.  I hesitated to attempt to make the full bust adjustment (FBA).  I thought about it and determine the following would be the way to go.  There is probably a more effective solution, but this is how I chose to tackle the fit adjustment.

I started with slashing the upper bodice vertically from the pleated area to the waist, adding paper to fill the space.

Next, I added length by slashing the front bodice horizontally.  The same amount of length was added to the back upper bodice (not shown).

Then, I redistributed the pleats and the space between them.  Now, there are three pleats instead of two.

After making these adjustments, I made a muslin to check the fit.  When I tried on the muslin, I identified a few more adjustments needed.  NOTE:  don't skip sewing the armband and gusset. It will help you determine if there is a good fit in the armhole and bust and upper back areas.

Additional adjustments after fitting the muslin:

• more vertical width (front bodice) resulting in a fourth pleats.
• more vertical width across the back.  I noticed pull at the shoulder blades.
• added tuck in the yoke at the upper back.
• added length where the shoulder seam would be.
• reduced fullness at the lower back just above the waist.

More later.

Happy Sewing!

C

Notes on a Pattern - Full Bust Adjustment Tutorial McCall's M8240

This is my muslin

It has been a while since I did a Notes on a Pattern.  

This top is all over social media.  I hesitated to make it for fear of the front placket not being perfect.  To help myself, I researched for some tutorials to get a flawless placket.  I did find a few on Instagram that were helpful.  An easy fit.  My other concern was with the FBA adjustment.  Could I get away without adjusting?  So for my wearable muslin, I decided to use the molly t-shirt front pattern as a sloper for the FBA. 

Well, it didn't exactly work to my liking.  The center front hem is slightly higher than the rest of the hem. So, I did the next best thing:  I made a traditional FBA for the best fit.  Today, I am posting a FBA tutorial for this McCall's pullover.

Below is my tutorial:

Step 1 - Draw the lines to prepare for the slash and spread of the pattern sections.

Step 2 - Cut along the line 1 and spread the desired amount of the adjustment.  In this instance, the amount is 1".

Step 3 - Cut and spread line 2 at the bust area to bring balance back to the side.

Step 4 - fill in with tissue paper along line 1 and 2.  Tape in place except for the lower right portion severl inches above the hem.

Step 5 - Cut and spread line 3 to true up the hemline.  Then fill in with tissue paper.

Step 6 - trim tissue paper all except for the bust area.

Step 7 - Fold the dart in half to trim tissue paper.  True up the bust dart along the side seam.

That's it for the basic traditional full bust adjustment.  I hope this information/tutorial is helpful.

Happy Sewing!

C

Notes on a Pattern McCall's M7978 - Blouse

 

Here's another project that is in the works.  I've wanted to make this top for a few years now.  Early April, I made a muslin.  And over two years ago, I did the tissue paper fit adjustments.  Sometimes I start and stop, start and stop, working on a project.  But this time, I hope to finish this one with a very nice blouse that fits well.  I wonder how many of us do that. Lol.

Anyway, this Notes on a Pattern details the fit adjustments.  My hope is that the information is useful to other sewists with the same/similar fit adjustments.  

To begin, let me start with the design/style of the blouse.  I think it is a good silhouette for me.  The "V" neckline is great for my inverted triangle shape.  The midriff gives me a little more definition at the waist and the ever so slightly flounce helps with the lack of noticeable hips.  So I think it's good for me.

A, B, C, D tops have gathered front and back, self faced yoke, button and loop closures, forward shoulder seams and gathered sleeve variation and band. B: Flounce. A, B, C: Cuffs. D: Sleeve band, neck band and ties in one.  The pattern comes in sizing groupings (6-14) and (14-22).  I used size 16 with modifications, of choice.

Most of my likes about this pattern is related to how it will help enhance my figure.  I also like the gathers and the fullness of the long sleeve view.  Additionally, it is a pretty easy blouse to sew, and there are no difficult constructions steps that I see.

The photos and drawing are true to the pattern.  So there are no concerns there.

Now, let's get to the fit adjustments.  I'll start with the full bust adjustment the front, a surplus bodice.  For the surplus bodice, I simply slashed and spread the appropriate amount for me.  To do so, I had to determine the needed amount of width and length being careful not to create too much fullness to gather under the bust.  I really didn't need to add any width to the front midriff pattern pieces.  

Next, for the upper back, I added a little length to balance it out with the front bodice.  The lower back midriff pieces, I did a sway back adjustment to remove additional fabric to pool at the lower back area, then adding the length at the bottom to balance out the hemline.

The last thing I adjusted was the neck band and the tie.  For this pattern piece, I needed to add some length to the neckband part only, slightly less than what I added to the front bodice.  Less to reduce the chance of gapping at the fullness of the bust.  The difference in the front bodice can be eased in.  See neck band/tie photo slash above the tie section of the pattern piece.

As for the sleeve length, I wasn't too concerned about making that adjustment for the muslin.  Most of the time it's a matter of adding an inch in the lower half of the sleeve.  Easy.

So, this is it for the Note on a Pattern for McCall M7978.  Now, I need to get to work on the actual blouse.

More later.  Stay tuned.

Happy Sewing,
C

Notes on a Pattern - Simplicity S9894 Part II

Hello Sewing Friends,

This is part 2 of fitting the corset of Simplicity S9894.  

I've made the second muslin.  It looks better.  With this muslin, I did the cup adjustments and lengthen the corset.  I wanted to see how it would look with those changes.  The upper front/neckline stands away from the body.  But a little tweaking can take care of that.

I will still raise the upper edge for more coverage, just a little.   And I'm thinking about adding boning to hold it in place.

Here are the second changes to the tissue pattern:

Stay tune.  part 3 coming soon!