Notes on a Pattern - McCall M7929

Today's "Notes on a Pattern" is for McCall M7929.  

I couldn't skip this step in the fit process.  I wanted to be sure about the fit before I cut into my fashion fabric.  Luckily, the changes that I initially made to the tissue pattern were very close to what is needed to make this top work for me.  

In these notes, my main focus was the fitting the front bodice.  My muslin is a combination of view B and D.  It helps me to see how it all comes together and how it will look on me.

Below are the tissue pattern changes.  Here I made a full bust adjustment (FBA).

For the bodice back, I made swayback adjustment and I adjusted the back pattern for a zipper closure instead of a button closure.  Please forgive the pencils and pens.  I used them to hold the pattern pieces in place.  On both front and back I raised the neckline a little.  I hate how low pattern fall on me.

Now, to look at the outcome of my changes.  For the FBA, the bottom edge of the cup is now longer than  the midriff.  To reduce length,  the excess needed to be removed.  So on one side I made a dart and the other I ease in the excess.  I liked to dart better.  So, in my fashion fabric I will make a dart at the lower section of the cup.  

The back is very good with this muslin.  So I don't think I need to make any more substantial changes.  Maybe a little tweaking here and there.

The next is to determine whether to make the top or add a skirt to the top for a dress.  Stay tuned.

Happy Sewing!

C

A New Blouse Silhouette with Simplicity S3103

Another new pattern to review.  This is a recent release:  Simplicity S3103.  I paired it with Vogue V1294.  These slacks were made last winter.  I just never posted pictures of them.  They look good with this top.

Pattern Description:  Simplicity vague description - blouse with sleeve variations

Pattern Sizing:  4 - 24; I used size 16 with modifications View B

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Pretty much.  I think the top pictured on the envelope looks longer than mine.  I thought about making it again adding a few inches to the hem. 

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Yes.  They were pretty easy to follow. 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Looking at the pattern, I initially liked the funnel neck and the sleeves of view C.  I was concerned about how my upper body would look in this silhouette.    Additionally, I didn't care too much for how the armhole facing looked once it was finished.  

Fabric Used: This is a silky polyester print that I purchased from Mood Fabrics several years ago.  I was drawn to it because of the print and colors in the fabric.  I only purchased one yard hoping I would be able to make a simple top.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I made my usual adjustments:  FBA, swayback, and prominent shoulder blades.  The FBA produced an additional waist dart plus and bust dart.  I made the bust dart slightly on an angle.  It almost disappears in the fabric.  One other change needed for me is the width of the funnel.  It stands out too far from my neck.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I will make it again.  I want to make view C with a few more inches added to the hem.  And yes, I do recommend it to others.  One word of caution, pay close mention with finishing the armhole with the facing.


Conclusion:  This is a easy top to sew.  If you need a FBA, it may produce an additional waist dart.  You can also consider making the original waist dart deeper if you do not want to add another one.

P.S.  -  I'm hoping my DD will be able to take some pictures soon of me wearing my newly made outfits.

Stay Tuned!

C

Notes on a Pattern - Vogue V1387

Today, I wanted to share a few notes on Vogue V1387, view A.  This pattern has been in my collection for a several years.  I hesitated to attempt to make the full bust adjustment (FBA).  I thought about it and determine the following would be the way to go.  There is probably a more effective solution, but this is how I chose to tackle the fit adjustment.

I started with slashing the upper bodice vertically from the pleated area to the waist, adding paper to fill the space.

Next, I added length by slashing the front bodice horizontally.  The same amount of length was added to the back upper bodice (not shown).

Then, I redistributed the pleats and the space between them.  Now, there are three pleats instead of two.

After making these adjustments, I made a muslin to check the fit.  When I tried on the muslin, I identified a few more adjustments needed.  NOTE:  don't skip sewing the armband and gusset. It will help you determine if there is a good fit in the armhole and bust and upper back areas.

Additional adjustments after fitting the muslin:

• more vertical width (front bodice) resulting in a fourth pleats.
• more vertical width across the back.  I noticed pull at the shoulder blades.
• added tuck in the yoke at the upper back.
• added length where the shoulder seam would be.
• reduced fullness at the lower back just above the waist.

More later.

Happy Sewing!

C

Tunic Delight - Vogue V1937 - Sandra Betzina

 

Pattern Description:  Misses' Dress and Tunic:  Pleat front A-line dress or tunic with back yoke.  View A has side seam pockets, contrast collar, cuffs and hem facings.  View B has lantern sleeves, contrast upper sleeves, yoke lining and hem facings, stitched to outside.  Purchased trim.

Pattern Sizing:  A - J corresponding measurements included.  I made view B (tunic), and I used sizes E and F.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, it did.  The sleeves were slightly longer on me than on the model.  It could be related to the sizing.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Yes, the instructions were easy to follow.  Sandra Betzina also included some tips for making bust and back adjustments along with some construction tips.  Note:  I still need to tack down the front pleat.  

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I have a few likes:  The lantern sleeves are beautiful; the trim around the neckline and below the yoke, and the contrast at the hem.

No real dislikes.

Fabric Used:  I used an Ankara fabric that I purchased at Djenne Collection on 95th Street.  The contrasting fabric is a basic cotton from JoAnn's. All fabrics pre-washed and dried.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I made a few small changes:

• I made bias tape for the trim instead a purchasing a fancy trim.  This first tunic was to test the pattern and the design for me.
• The sizing - I tweaked the fit between sizes E and F.
• I added 1/2" across the shoulder blades for prominent shoulder blades.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I think I will make the tunic again in one of the recommended fabrics.  I used a crisper fabric because I was going for more of a dashiki look.  With a crepe or silky fabric the tunic will hang closer to the body and have more drape than my version of it. I also want to make the dress.  And yes, I do recommend it to others.  I do suggest that you should transfer all markings especially on the front of the top.

Conclusion: I enjoyed making this tunic.  It was not difficult to sew and the instructions were good.  The finished top really looks great.  I hope to post pictures of me wearing it soon.

Thanks and Happy Sewing,

Cennetta

 

Notes on a Pattern - Full Bust Adjustment Tutorial McCall's M8240

This is my muslin

It has been a while since I did a Notes on a Pattern.  

This top is all over social media.  I hesitated to make it for fear of the front placket not being perfect.  To help myself, I researched for some tutorials to get a flawless placket.  I did find a few on Instagram that were helpful.  An easy fit.  My other concern was with the FBA adjustment.  Could I get away without adjusting?  So for my wearable muslin, I decided to use the molly t-shirt front pattern as a sloper for the FBA. 

Well, it didn't exactly work to my liking.  The center front hem is slightly higher than the rest of the hem. So, I did the next best thing:  I made a traditional FBA for the best fit.  Today, I am posting a FBA tutorial for this McCall's pullover.

Below is my tutorial:

Step 1 - Draw the lines to prepare for the slash and spread of the pattern sections.

Step 2 - Cut along the line 1 and spread the desired amount of the adjustment.  In this instance, the amount is 1".

Step 3 - Cut and spread line 2 at the bust area to bring balance back to the side.

Step 4 - fill in with tissue paper along line 1 and 2.  Tape in place except for the lower right portion severl inches above the hem.

Step 5 - Cut and spread line 3 to true up the hemline.  Then fill in with tissue paper.

Step 6 - trim tissue paper all except for the bust area.

Step 7 - Fold the dart in half to trim tissue paper.  True up the bust dart along the side seam.

That's it for the basic traditional full bust adjustment.  I hope this information/tutorial is helpful.

Happy Sewing!

C

Ribbed Summer Knit - Simplicity S9757

Good day everyone,

Today's post is an outfit for my DD.  She really liked how the previous version turned out and wanted another for this summer.  So here is the second version.  The only differences are that I made view C instead of D and the fabric is a ribbed knit.

All of the review information is here. 

So that's basically it for this post.  As for the sewing experience, it was the same expect for the type of fabric. I guess I should give some descriptive information about that.  This fabric was another purchase from Hobby Lobby.  It has 35-40% stretch crosswise. It has a soft hand and is fluid, not stiff like some ribbed knits.  

Happy Sewing!

C