Easy Simplicity Pullover Top - S9679 in Review

I've had Simplicity S9679 in my pattern collection for a while. I am just getting around to sewing it.  Of course, I had to do my usual fit adjustments; FBA and swayback.  In this review, I paired it with a TNT pants pattern S8389.  It is a go-to for an easy fit and sew coordinate.  

So let's begin the pattern review of Simplicity S9679

Pattern Description:  Misses' knit top with sleeve variations.

Pattern Sizing:  4 - 20; I used size 16 with modifications.  I made view B.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, it did.  Slight changes to address the adjustments made.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Yes,  the instructions were typical; nothing difficult or confusing in them.  

Was the construction easy?  Yes, the top went together with ease.  The most tedious part was finishing the opening across the upper chest and back.  This step required you to take your time.  This area is a focal point of the top.  I used some steam a seam to hold everything in place as I sewed.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  For this version of the top I have likes and dislikes.

 Likes -

• The seaming and the opening at the upper body. 
• The slant of the neck opening.  It adds interest to what would a simple pullover top.

Dislikes -

• Finishing of the armhole.  I added a binding to finish it.
• The armhole fit.  I could have created the problem when I slightly rise it.  But this is something that I noticed in other tops that have a sleeveless and sleeved version that used the same front and back pattern.  For my next version I'll try to address that.

Fabric Used:  I used a ribbed knit from Fashion Fabric Fabrics.  I love the chartreuse color of it.  The stretch recovery could be better.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  

• FBA - I used my molly t-shirt pattern to make it.  You can see where are made changes along the sides and at the lower front armhole.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

• Swayback adjustment - I first cut the lower back into two pattern pieces.  Next, I made the tuck on each pieces and added at the hem.  I added seam allowance to both patterns where they would be joined.   I didn't make a prominent shoulder blade adjustment.  It appears to be okay without it. 
• I shorten the opening to eliminate any gapping.
• I cut binding out of the fashion fabric to finish the armhole.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I plan to sew view C. And yes, I recommend it to others.

Conclusion:  I enjoyed making this pullover top.  It is a change from the typical t-shirt style pullover.  You can dress it up or down.  It's easy to sew for all sewing levels.

Happy Sewing!

C

Summery Pleated Top - Vogue V1387

Pattern Description:  Misses' top:  top has self-lined yokes, front pleats, shaped hemline, and very narrow hem.  A, front longer than back and B, back longer than front, wrong side shows,  A: mock wrap, pullover, fitted through bust, no shoulder seams, elasticized tie ends for casing, underarm inset, and armhole bands.  B:  loose-fitting, collar, front bands with snap closing, and long sleeves with pleats, placket and snaps cuffs.  I made view A.

Pattern Sizing:  Size groups (6-14) (16-22)  I used size 16 with modifications.  See previous posts for more information.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, for the most part.  I added two pleats and lengthen the hem a bit. 

 

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical.  The only little hiccup was inserting the the gusset at the lower armhole.  It is important to mark as indicated and sew the exact seam allowance throughout.  For the hem, I never follow the instruction for that.  I stitch two rounds to make the hem.  first round sew hem at 1/8" trim where necessary.  Then, I turn the hem and repeat, no trimming.  This gives me a clean, nice finished rolled hem.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I like the style of the top.  No dislikes.

Fabric Used:  The fabric feels much like a rayon challis, but it doesn't press as easy.  So, I suspect that it is a blend.  I really like it doesn't wrinkle easy.  I purchased it at Hobby Lobby last year.


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  See this post for alterations/adjustments.  Additionally, I made adjustments to the placement of the gathers across the back for better fit near the arm area.  Second, I think the placement of the pleats can also be adjusted to fall more over the bust area. Finally, I added the same width to the lower portions of the top to match the width of the upper bodice.  

Extra:  I shorten the recommended elastic length and made the ties longer. 

 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, I plan to make it again soon.  And yes, I do recommend it to others.

Conclusion: I'm happy with how this top turned out.  It was fairly easy to sew.  This top can be worn during the warmer alone: Or it can be worn in the cooler months layered with a cardigan or jacket. 

Happy Sewing!

C

Notes on a Pattern - Vogue V1387

Today, I wanted to share a few notes on Vogue V1387, view A.  This pattern has been in my collection for a several years.  I hesitated to attempt to make the full bust adjustment (FBA).  I thought about it and determine the following would be the way to go.  There is probably a more effective solution, but this is how I chose to tackle the fit adjustment.

I started with slashing the upper bodice vertically from the pleated area to the waist, adding paper to fill the space.

Next, I added length by slashing the front bodice horizontally.  The same amount of length was added to the back upper bodice (not shown).

Then, I redistributed the pleats and the space between them.  Now, there are three pleats instead of two.

After making these adjustments, I made a muslin to check the fit.  When I tried on the muslin, I identified a few more adjustments needed.  NOTE:  don't skip sewing the armband and gusset. It will help you determine if there is a good fit in the armhole and bust and upper back areas.

Additional adjustments after fitting the muslin:

• more vertical width (front bodice) resulting in a fourth pleats.
• more vertical width across the back.  I noticed pull at the shoulder blades.
• added tuck in the yoke at the upper back.
• added length where the shoulder seam would be.
• reduced fullness at the lower back just above the waist.

More later.

Happy Sewing!

C