Easy Simplicity Pullover Top - S9679 in Review

I've had Simplicity S9679 in my pattern collection for a while. I am just getting around to sewing it.  Of course, I had to do my usual fit adjustments; FBA and swayback.  In this review, I paired it with a TNT pants pattern S8389.  It is a go-to for an easy fit and sew coordinate.  

So let's begin the pattern review of Simplicity S9679

Pattern Description:  Misses' knit top with sleeve variations.

Pattern Sizing:  4 - 20; I used size 16 with modifications.  I made view B.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, it did.  Slight changes to address the adjustments made.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Yes,  the instructions were typical; nothing difficult or confusing in them.  

Was the construction easy?  Yes, the top went together with ease.  The most tedious part was finishing the opening across the upper chest and back.  This step required you to take your time.  This area is a focal point of the top.  I used some steam a seam to hold everything in place as I sewed.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  For this version of the top I have likes and dislikes.

 Likes -

• The seaming and the opening at the upper body. 
• The slant of the neck opening.  It adds interest to what would a simple pullover top.

Dislikes -

• Finishing of the armhole.  I added a binding to finish it.
• The armhole fit.  I could have created the problem when I slightly rise it.  But this is something that I noticed in other tops that have a sleeveless and sleeved version that used the same front and back pattern.  For my next version I'll try to address that.

Fabric Used:  I used a ribbed knit from Fashion Fabric Fabrics.  I love the chartreuse color of it.  The stretch recovery could be better.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  

• FBA - I used my molly t-shirt pattern to make it.  You can see where are made changes along the sides and at the lower front armhole.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

• Swayback adjustment - I first cut the lower back into two pattern pieces.  Next, I made the tuck on each pieces and added at the hem.  I added seam allowance to both patterns where they would be joined.   I didn't make a prominent shoulder blade adjustment.  It appears to be okay without it. 
• I shorten the opening to eliminate any gapping.
• I cut binding out of the fashion fabric to finish the armhole.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I plan to sew view C. And yes, I recommend it to others.

Conclusion:  I enjoyed making this pullover top.  It is a change from the typical t-shirt style pullover.  You can dress it up or down.  It's easy to sew for all sewing levels.

Happy Sewing!

C

Notes on a Pattern - Vogue V1387

Today, I wanted to share a few notes on Vogue V1387, view A.  This pattern has been in my collection for a several years.  I hesitated to attempt to make the full bust adjustment (FBA).  I thought about it and determine the following would be the way to go.  There is probably a more effective solution, but this is how I chose to tackle the fit adjustment.

I started with slashing the upper bodice vertically from the pleated area to the waist, adding paper to fill the space.

Next, I added length by slashing the front bodice horizontally.  The same amount of length was added to the back upper bodice (not shown).

Then, I redistributed the pleats and the space between them.  Now, there are three pleats instead of two.

After making these adjustments, I made a muslin to check the fit.  When I tried on the muslin, I identified a few more adjustments needed.  NOTE:  don't skip sewing the armband and gusset. It will help you determine if there is a good fit in the armhole and bust and upper back areas.

Additional adjustments after fitting the muslin:

• more vertical width (front bodice) resulting in a fourth pleats.
• more vertical width across the back.  I noticed pull at the shoulder blades.
• added tuck in the yoke at the upper back.
• added length where the shoulder seam would be.
• reduced fullness at the lower back just above the waist.

More later.

Happy Sewing!

C

The Brocade Makes The Jacket - Butterick B6915

A little over a year ago, I briefly mentioned my work on the muslin for the jacket of this pattern.  Since that time, I did more tweaking of the pattern and decided to use a beautiful brocade that I purchased from Mood Fabrics several years ago during a visit to New York.  

I thought the style of the jacket was the perfect match for the brocade.  Granted I did want to reduce any chance of something going wrong or turning out wonky before I cut into my fabric.  I really love the fabric and wanted to make something special with it.   

We are now in the hot, muggy days of summer.  It was 94 degrees when I took the photos of me wearing my outfit.  Though the coloration of my new suit is bright and cheery, it is perfect for the fall/winter season.  

Pattern Description:  Classic two-piece suit with a twist.  Lined jacket draws asymmetrically across the body and fastens with three buttons.  Jacket features flap detail at front.  Pants come in ankle length and includes invisible zipper on the side.  View C are wide leg pants.  I made view A and B.

Pattern Sizing:  It comes in two size groups (8 - 16) and (18 - 26) I used size 16 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, my outfit does look like the drawing and the suit that the model is wearing.  

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical and easy to follow.  There was nothing confusing about them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  

Likes -

• The asymmetrical style line of the jacket.
• The pleats at the neckline of the jacket
• The princess seam.

Dislikes -

• The one piece sleeve.  I prefer a two piece sleeve for a suit jacket.  These sleeves were snug and there was too much in the sleeve cap for my fabric.  When I made the muslin the amount of ease in the sleeve cap was easy to work into the armhole.  But in the brocade it was slightly difficult.  I had to set the sleeve three times.

Fabric Used:  My fabrics were purchased at Mood Fabrics during a trip to met up with several sewing friends (Carolyn, Andrea, Gaylen)  in New York.  My jacket fabric is a silk brocade and the pants is a medium weight polyester satin.  

 
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I made several pattern adjustments beginning with the full bust adjustment and my usual back adjustments.  I also lengthen the sleeves and added an inch width to the upper arm area.  For the pants I had to lengthen the leg and crotch.  Sorry no photo of that adjustment.

After making the adjustments and a muslin, I still needed to make a few tweaks as I sewed.  Below is a photo of me fitting the lower half of the jacket along side of photo of the finished outfit.  See the difference in the flare of the peplum.  I ripped it all out and reduced the peplum along the sides. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I think once is enough.  But, I do recommend this pattern to others.  You should make a muslin before cutting into your fashion fabric.

Conclusion: I'm pleased with how this suit turned out.  I'll probably wear it the first chance I get when cooler weather returns.  This pattern is not difficult to sew. It's time consuming and you should take your time and enjoy the process.

Simplicity S9894 Is Finally Done!

 

It is so gratifying when you've finally completed something that you've been working on for a while.  This corset/bustier style top took two muslins and two fashion fabric tops to get it right.  And I love the way it turned out. 

So today I want to give my final pattern review with all the changes that went into making this top.  BTW- the skirt was a piece of cake.

There are two posts already published.  Links to each follows:

Notes on a Pattern Simplicity S9894  - This post basically gives some insight on the pattern and my first attempt at the FBA.

Notes on a Pattern Simplicity S9894-Part II - Continues with working on the fit of the corset top.  I  provided illustrations on how I made additional adjustments to suit my taste.

After the second post, I continued tweaking the fit of the corset top.  I took some time and several putting on and taking off until I got the fit just right.  I suspect anyone wanting to try this top will have to go through a similar process.  With that said, me get to the other details.

Pattern Description:   Cropped corset top with bust cups has underwire for support.  Skirt has a slightly lowered waist and offered in two length variations.  Top and skirt both have size zippers.  Top has separate pattern pieces pattern for B, C, and D cups sizes for Miss and C, D, and DD cup sizes for Women.

Pattern Sizing:  Sizes 10-18 and 20W- 28W.  I used size 18 with lots of modifications for the corset and size 16 for the skirt.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, it did, except for the width of the straps.  I made mine twice the width.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical, and there was nothing confusing in them.  Easy.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I wanted to try this corset type top.  It reminds me of a long-line bra.  And bra making is something I want to try.  This top seemed to be a good way to practice bra making.  The skirt pattern design is a common pattern design that I probably have in at least a dozen pattern that I own.  

I didn't really have any dislikes.  

Fabric Used:  It was a gift to me some time ago.  And I thought this pattern would be great for it.  A linen fabric with embroidered polka-dots on it.  I love working with natural fabrics.  So easy to handle.  But this one presented a little challenge with the polka-dots.  The embroidery was raised and sometimes got caught in the machine.  But overall, the fabric was okay to work with.  

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: 

 

• FBA - See previous posts for details on making the FBA adjustment.  There was more tweaks to make here and there to get the right fit.
• I raised the neckline and added a few inches to the hem of the corset.
• I doubled the width of the straps.
• No underwire inserted. The corset fit just fine without it.
• For the skirt, I lengthen the short version by eight inches. 
• Because I had limited fabric left, I made a straight waistband about 2.5 inches wide doubled.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Of course.  I did a lot of adjusting.  I will certainly sew the corset top again.  And I do recommend it to others.  Make a muslin or two. Lol  

Conclusion: I am so pleased with the results of this outfit.  It turned out very well.  I hope to make it again soon.

Happy Sewing!

C

Soft Crepe Dress Simplicity S9820

Hello Sewing Friends,

I finally have something to share with pictures.  This Simplicity dress was made immediately after I finished my Chicago Frock tails dress.  In fact, I made it the morning before the Frock tails Saturday evening affair.  I really needed something to cleanse my palette.  Because I devoted many hours to making my Frock tails dress which in the end lack luster.  The truth is I made two dresses.  One trashed and the other a substitute for what I really wanted to wear.

Anyway, Simplicity S9820 helped me feel better about all the hours that I spent on the party dress.  To start, I had already made the pattern adjustments.  Anyone who has similar adjustments knows that this takes quite some time with every new pattern to use in a sewing project.  It was so satisfying to go right to the cutting table.  Sewing time was about 3.5 hours plus time to hand stitch the hem.

Pattern Description:  As usual, Simplicity gives the vaguest pattern descriptions.  My description:  Misses's knit dresses and shrug.  View A dress is an A-line mid-calf knit dress with shoulder and neckline drape details.  View B dress is a floor length A-line strapless dress with a front knotted long sleeve shrug.  Both dresses close with an invisible zipper at the back of the dress.

Pattern Sizing:  This pattern is available in  sizes 8 to 26, which is very nice.  I used size 16 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical.  Nothing difficult or confusing in them.  

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I love the shoulder and neckline drape.  The A-line silhouette was a plus too.  I was mostly interested in making view A.  But after I finished it, I considered making view B at a later date.

 

I don't have any real dislikes.

Fabric Used: My fabric is from New Rainbow Fabrics on Roosevelt Road in Chicago,  It is a blush, crepe knit with a soft hand.  The stretch of the fabric is more than 25%.  It has great recovery.  I think it is perfect for this dress.  New Rainbow has this crepe knit in a variety of colors at a very reasonable price of $7.00 per yard.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I have quite a few changes that I made.  I begin by examining the measurements on the pattern front for the finished dress.  The finished bust measurement is only 34 inches.  

 

• FBA - Often, for my size it's around 39 inches.  So, I feel this pattern runs a little on the small size.  Because the front and back patterns are designed sleeveless, I had to think about how to make the FBA adjustment without distorting the shape of the dress.  Below is an illustration of the FBA.  I simply slashed through the neckline down to the bust area continuing the length of the pattern.  This had to be done twice because the front pattern piece was for the entire front body instead of half the width of the body.   This adjustment produce a dart.  I decided to angle the dart slightly.  I hate darts that are straight across from side to apex.

• Added width to the two back pieces - When I make a FBA, the front is sometimes much wider than the back.  Particularly, below the bust. Often, I end up sewing larger side seams to slim down the rest of the dress.  This sometimes causes the back to be even smaller.  And the side seams are off center along the side.  So to balance things out a bit, I added some width across the back.  Note:  My usual prominent shoulder blade adjustment was not needed because the back of the dress falls well  below the shoulder blades.

• Swayback - There are two back pattern pieces.  I suspect the reason is not to confuse the sewist with the markings for each shoulder and neckline attachments.  Tucks were made on both pieces.  Note:  the amount of the tuck has to be added back at the hem to balance out the hem.  

• Marking the Lower dress pattern pieces - I decided to cut the pattern pieces at the hem for view A.  Each piece is label with the respective pattern number plus the letter "B".

• Front and Back Facings -  I adjusted the width of both to match the adjustment that I made to the front and back.

• Elastic Around the Top of the Dress -  To stabilize the neckline of the dress, elastic is added.  I measured the elastic by first stretching it to relief any added tension.  Then I measure it like I would to take an upper bust measurement.  This is how I determined the length of my elastic.  Next, I divided it into four sections.  Starting at the right back for section 1.  Sections 2 and 3 for the front.  Finally, section 4 for the left back.  I stretched the elastic to fit each section.  The elastic was attached after the facings were sewn on.
• Shoulder and Neckline Drape - I added about an inch to each.  I didn't need it.  So, I had to remove the added length to those pieces.

These are my adjustments/changes.  I hope this is clear.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I think I will make it again.  Probably for a holiday dress.  There is always a holiday party to go to.  And this dress is a quick make with great results.  And, yes I do recommend it to others.  

Conclusion: I am very pleased with how this dress turned out.  It was the perfect antidote for recovery from a "not so great" sewing experience.  Lol

Parting Photos:   Me wearing Simplicity Combo S8735 and S8637.  The pattern review is:   Easy, Breezy Summer Dress.  It is perfect for the 90 degree temps we are experiencing right now.