Maxi Dress Wardrobe Staple - Dart Rotation M7386 and M6559

Now that I've shared many of the major events and activities of my birthday celebration, I'm back to playing catch up with my sewing projects from the summer.  Sometimes it is a challenge to take the photos and organize them.  

So let me get started with two maxi dresses that I made in August.  Both dresses are really easy to make.  The first is a "Learn to Sew for Fun" pattern. The second pattern that I used may be OOP. There are so many options for hacking or making changes to either pattern to suit your own taste or design preference.  

One of the major adjustments that I almost always make is a FBA, which I made for these two dresses.  Before I start with all the changes, let me provide some of the basic information about the two dresses.

Pattern Descriptions:

M7386 -  McCall's gives a really basic description:  Pullover top, dresses and pull-on skirts have narrow hem.  One of  my favorite elements of the design is the fishtail skirt of the maxi dress.

 M6559 - Close-fitting, unlined jacket in two lengths has front extending into single-layer tie ends (wrong side shows).  Very close-fitting, pullover dresses.

Pattern Sizing:

M7386 - Size groupings (XS, S, M and L, XL, XXL)

M6559 - Size groupings (6-14 and 14-22)

I used what would be large and size 16, respectively.  And, of course, I made some modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

The silhouette is basically the same. 

Were the instructions easy to follow?

The instructions are simple.  Any level sewist should be able to follow them with no problems

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

With my changes, my likes are the ruching in the bust area, the fishtail skirt, and the finishing of the bands at the neck and armholes.

Fabric Used:

My knit fabric is from Hobby Lobby.  It is a spongy knit, similar to Liverpool knit.  It was very easy to work with.  Before cutting into it, I pre-washed and dried it. 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

the adjustment is made for the length of the front and back pattern pieces.

#1 dress - animal print (M7386). 

• FBA and Dart Rotation - For this dress I used M7386 front and back.  The FBA was made to rotate the dart to the center front to create ruching at the bust area.  This eliminates the bust dart all together.  I've posted a tutorial years ago if you are interested in the steps to do the dart rotation.  Here 
• This process is pretty easy to follow.  Once I did the dart rotation, I just added seam allowance to the center front.
• Neck and armhole band -  I simply measured the circumference of  each for the length of the band minus 2 to 3 inches depending on the stretch of the fabric.  The width of the bands 2".  The ends of the bands were sewn together (3/8" seam allowance) to create a circle.  Then attached to the appropriate areas using a 5/8" seam allowance; trimmed after sewing.  Then top-stitched for a nice finish.
• Broad shoulder adjustment - I added width across the back.
• Swayback - horizontal tuck across the back at the waist.
• Length - I also have to add length. Lol  Just a few inches so that the dress is truly a maxi dress.
• I did do some tweaking along the way.  The added width across all areas isn't needed throughout the entire dress.  So I adjusted as needed taking in larger seam allowances.

#2  dress rust Solid (M6559) 

• I used the front of M7386.  But for the back I wanted a racerback.  So, I used the top of M6559.  And to keep the skirt silhouette of M7386, I overlaid the skirt back of M7386 folding and tucking the rest of the pattern out of the cutting path.  No need to retrace unless you really want to.  Lol.  So the skirt (fishtail) was the same for the front and back.  All other adjustments were the same.  I did need to add a center back seam.  The center back seam helps with getting that close fit at the small of my back.
• All other changes are the same as M7386.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Sure.  This is a quick and easy dress, a wardrobe staple.  It has many style options, which can be worn well into fall with cardigans, jackets, shrugs, or a knit t-shirt underneath.

I recommend these patterns to all level sewists.

Conclusion:  Both patterns are easy to sew for all level sewists.  It is versatile and stylish.  

Happy Sewing!

C

 

Full Bust Adjustment and Dart Rotation - Tutorial

I wondered if it was worthwhile to post an entry on full bust adjustment (FBA) and dart rotation.  The internet has tons of guides for FBA.  But, I haven't seen many FBA and dart rotation tutorials.  At the Palmer/Pletsch retreat, Marta Alto taught a segment on dart rotation and how it could be used as a style element as well adding form and shape to a garment. 

Although, I tried dart rotation in the past, her lesson helped build my confidence to try new ways to use this technique when making a FBA.  It is most challenging to make a FBA on a one piece front bodice.  Sometimes the dart is too large and it is difficult to form without dimpling or sharp points.

Today I'd like to share some examples of how I made a FBA combined with dart rotation.  My first illustration is a simple one.  It is Simplicity 2594-C, top with pleats below the yoke.

1. Make the standard FBA on the bodice.  I used the Palmer/Pletsch "Y" method because the FBA was greater than 1 inch. 

2.  Fill in the FBA with tissue paper, leaving one lege of the "Y" and the dart open.

3.  To close the dart, slash the second leg of the "Y" to open the end at the second pleat.  Next  close the dart and tape it together.  You may need to cut/tear the added tissue to fully rotate the dart into the

4. Next fill in the rotated dart, which is now part of the pleated area of the top.  Redraw the stitching lines for the pleats, evenly distributing the excess.

5.  No bust darts on top pictured below.


Next example is FBA dart rotation on Vogue 1127.  A gathered neckline blouse with bow tie.  This was fitted at the Palmer/Pletch workshop in 2012.

1.  Make the standard FBA on the bodice.  Do not fill in the new bust dart with tissue.

2. Next, slash the neckline to rotate the dart.  Now tape the slash made for the bust together.

3.  Fill in the slash at the neckline with tissue.

4.  Rotated dart becomes part of the gathered neckline. I haven't made this one yet. Soon...

And my final example, is Vogue 1220.  This example does not include all of the steps for making the FBA.  I think you'll understand how to make the FBA and rotate the dart to the shoulder pleats.

1. Remove the side back bodice from the front bodice and set it aside until the FBA and the rotation are complete. 

2.  Follow the steps for making a standard FBA and rotate the dart to the pleated area of the bodice.  Tape the slash for the bust dart together and tape the side back bodice in place.

3.  Redraw the pleats so they are evenly distributed at the joining edge.  That's it.

Happy sewing!
Cennetta