Vogue V2049 - New Pattern Release in Review

When I saw Vogue V2049 bodysuit pattern in the catalog, I had to have it.  And a few weeks ago, I was finally able to purchase it at the JoAnn's pattern sale.  Days later I cut it out and begin to make the fit adjustments.

At times making the fit adjustments can take just as much time as it does to sew up a simple t-shirt.  For this top, I got the brilliant idea to use my Molly Tee pattern as a sloper in hopes of speeding up the process.  Low and behold, it was spot on with the adjustments.  

I was extremely happy not to do the entire process of slashing, cutting, and taping. So, here is my review:

 

 Pattern Description: Misses' Bodysuits:  close-fitting bodysuit has asymmetric neckline stabilized with 1/4" elastic, bust darts, long sleeves and fastens with snap closures.  View A has front and back gathered drape pulled through loop.

 

Pattern Sizing:  8 to 26.  I used size 16 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.  

Were the instructions easy to follow?  One of the things that I love about sewing Vogue patterns is that they sometimes have some very interesting techniques for constructing a garment.  The construction of the right top at the arm was one of those cases.  To my surprise, it went together very well.  

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I have some likes and dislikes.

Likes

• The style of the bodysuit.  I love the drape about the neckline and the scarf. And the asymmetric stabilized neckline is a winner. too

Dislikes

 

• Now, the way that vogue instructs on how to finish the leg hole and the snap area, I didn't appreciate at all.  It did not make sense to me.  But for the sake of following the instructions for this wearable muslin, I finished the leg hole and snap area as instructed.  Next time I will probably add a little more to the edges and sew on elastic to finish the area.

Fabric Used:  My fabric came from Walmart.  I got it out of the 2 yard discount bend.  I only paid $4.00 for it.  It is a soft, light weight knit with 75% crosswise stretch required for this top.  Note:  having enough crosswise stretch is key.  Make sure you take the amount of stretch into consideration if you plan to make this top.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I used what I'll say is a short-cut on the FBA.  If you've been following this blog for at least a year, you know that I love making the Molly Tee and have made several of them throughout the years.  It comes with bust cup sizes, I think, up to G.  I have my pattern at the ready at all times.  So, I placed my Molly Tee under the front of the Vogue V2049 to determine the FBA.  I totally ignored the darts.  Then I added the "curved width" needed to make this new top fit.  When I constructed the bodysuit, I did make darts as instructed.  It worked out perfectly.

 

I'm hope  I'll be able to take of picture of me wearing it soon.  But for now, I'm showing it on the dress form.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, this was my wearable muslin.  I think that I will make it as a top, though.  We will see how that goes later.  I do recommend it to others.  Caution, this is not a typical t-shirt pattern.  I can sew up a simple t-shirt within an hour and a half.  This bodysuit took about 3 hours to make minus putting on the snaps.  It takes time and patience on the neckline and drape.

Conclusion:   I really like how this bodysuit turned out with the exception of the finishing of the leg hole and snap area.  The attractive neckline is a winner.  

 

Happy Sewing!

 

C

 

Wrap Top- Butterick B5101

This wrap top was made in October 2024.  It has been on my "to make" list for ages.  Butterick B5101 Lifestyle Wardrobe pattern, with several views to literally make a complete wardrobe with endless outfit options.  The copyright year is 2007.  So it is OOP.

Pattern Description:  Misses' top, dress, skirt and pants:  wrap front top and dress have all-in-one sleeve, pleated collar extending into front neckline, side tie, sleeve length and hem variations.  Mock wrap front skirt and straight leg pants have casing and elastic yoke.

Pattern Sizing:  SX, S, M, L, XL .  I used size medium grading it up somewhere between a medium and large with fit adjustments.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes,  my top does look like the drawing on the envelope.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical, but not difficult to follow.  

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I liked that it is a wrap top/dress with some pleating around the mid section with a tie.  

I do have a few dislikes, though.  The tie is slightly wider than what I'd like for this top/dress.  And I prefer it to be a little longer since I'm so tall.  My other dislikes is the thickness of the belt loop.  It could be thinner.  I'll make these adjustments on my next version, which is already in the making. :-)  No other dislikes.

Fabric Used:  My knit jersey came from New Rainbow Fabrics on Roosevelt Road in Chicago.  It is a vibrant tomato red with a dry hand.  It is easy to work with and is wrinkle free.  I pre-washed and dried it as soon as I bought it home.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  Okay, it may be boring, but I had to make my usual full bust adjustment.    Definitely necessary for the level of stretch of my fabric choice and the style of the top.  Because the sleeve is cut-on, I started the process with removing the sleeve.  Then I made the FBA.  Finally, reattaching the sleeve. See the photo below for the finished fit adjustment. Also, I lengthen the sleeve by an inch.  

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, I will.  I'm in the process of making the pants and the top.  I hope to finish it by the end of this week.  If this is your style, of course, I recommend it.  The pattern is easy to sew and it offers a lot of style options in one pattern.

Conclusion:  This is a good wardrobe pattern that offers many outfit options.  It is easy to sew for all level sewists.  The hem of the top/dress may be a little challenging for beginners, but doable.  Take your time.

Happy Sewing!

C

Maxi Dress Wardrobe Staple - Dart Rotation M7386 and M6559

Now that I've shared many of the major events and activities of my birthday celebration, I'm back to playing catch up with my sewing projects from the summer.  Sometimes it is a challenge to take the photos and organize them.  

So let me get started with two maxi dresses that I made in August.  Both dresses are really easy to make.  The first is a "Learn to Sew for Fun" pattern. The second pattern that I used may be OOP. There are so many options for hacking or making changes to either pattern to suit your own taste or design preference.  

One of the major adjustments that I almost always make is a FBA, which I made for these two dresses.  Before I start with all the changes, let me provide some of the basic information about the two dresses.

Pattern Descriptions:

M7386 -  McCall's gives a really basic description:  Pullover top, dresses and pull-on skirts have narrow hem.  One of  my favorite elements of the design is the fishtail skirt of the maxi dress.

 M6559 - Close-fitting, unlined jacket in two lengths has front extending into single-layer tie ends (wrong side shows).  Very close-fitting, pullover dresses.

Pattern Sizing:

M7386 - Size groupings (XS, S, M and L, XL, XXL)

M6559 - Size groupings (6-14 and 14-22)

I used what would be large and size 16, respectively.  And, of course, I made some modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

The silhouette is basically the same. 

Were the instructions easy to follow?

The instructions are simple.  Any level sewist should be able to follow them with no problems

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

With my changes, my likes are the ruching in the bust area, the fishtail skirt, and the finishing of the bands at the neck and armholes.

Fabric Used:

My knit fabric is from Hobby Lobby.  It is a spongy knit, similar to Liverpool knit.  It was very easy to work with.  Before cutting into it, I pre-washed and dried it. 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

the adjustment is made for the length of the front and back pattern pieces.

#1 dress - animal print (M7386). 

• FBA and Dart Rotation - For this dress I used M7386 front and back.  The FBA was made to rotate the dart to the center front to create ruching at the bust area.  This eliminates the bust dart all together.  I've posted a tutorial years ago if you are interested in the steps to do the dart rotation.  Here 
• This process is pretty easy to follow.  Once I did the dart rotation, I just added seam allowance to the center front.
• Neck and armhole band -  I simply measured the circumference of  each for the length of the band minus 2 to 3 inches depending on the stretch of the fabric.  The width of the bands 2".  The ends of the bands were sewn together (3/8" seam allowance) to create a circle.  Then attached to the appropriate areas using a 5/8" seam allowance; trimmed after sewing.  Then top-stitched for a nice finish.
• Broad shoulder adjustment - I added width across the back.
• Swayback - horizontal tuck across the back at the waist.
• Length - I also have to add length. Lol  Just a few inches so that the dress is truly a maxi dress.
• I did do some tweaking along the way.  The added width across all areas isn't needed throughout the entire dress.  So I adjusted as needed taking in larger seam allowances.

#2  dress rust Solid (M6559) 

• I used the front of M7386.  But for the back I wanted a racerback.  So, I used the top of M6559.  And to keep the skirt silhouette of M7386, I overlaid the skirt back of M7386 folding and tucking the rest of the pattern out of the cutting path.  No need to retrace unless you really want to.  Lol.  So the skirt (fishtail) was the same for the front and back.  All other adjustments were the same.  I did need to add a center back seam.  The center back seam helps with getting that close fit at the small of my back.
• All other changes are the same as M7386.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Sure.  This is a quick and easy dress, a wardrobe staple.  It has many style options, which can be worn well into fall with cardigans, jackets, shrugs, or a knit t-shirt underneath.

I recommend these patterns to all level sewists.

Conclusion:  Both patterns are easy to sew for all level sewists.  It is versatile and stylish.  

Happy Sewing!

C

 

Catching Up

 Good evening everyone,

This is the first time I've attempted to write a blog post since my accident with the hedge clippers.  I'll skip the details.  The good thing is I'm all right.  Anyway, I had a few potential blog posts that got derailed the day of my incident.  It does take forever to type out a post on my computer.  So for a while my posts will be abbreviated. 

I just made another blog anniversary. Fourteen years of blogging on July 4, 2021. It doesn't feel like fourteen years have past. 

Today I'm posting a photo from my first pattern review. I made the faux leather outfit with fabric purchased from Walmart. The second half of the picture is my most recent outfit made with fabric from Minerva Fabrics of the UK.. 

It has been a wonderful journey. I am so happy I chose to start blogging.  It has so many benefits. I seen growth in my ability;  an opportunity to share with others who love what I do; I've gained a host of new friends; I've had opportunities to share my knowledge with others as well as an opportunity to learn from some great sewists. These are just a few benefits.

In the coming days I'm hoping to publish a few short posts on some projects that were near completion or in the works. 

I found a Threads Magazine Youtube video titled, "Pattern Adjustment for a Full Bust Without a Dart."  Excellent tutorial and I used it for two projects that I will post soon.  

Initially, I was going to do my own tutorial based on my own measurements and projects.  But I decided not to "reinvent the wheel".   Posting Threads video is easier.  My reason for wanting a dartless FBA  is to maintain the original pattern design as much as possible and/or to use striped fabrics without disrupting the flow of the stripes with a dart.  I hope that makes sense.

My first project is Simplicity S9222.  I'm still working on this one.  The dartless FBA does not interfere with the drape of the top of the dress.  This is one I decided to make after seeing Carol Crocker-Ware's dress that she posted on Patternreview.  My dress is coming soon.  

The second project I used the dartless FBA on is Vogue V1786.  I love this shirt and think it is great in a striped fabric.  My July Minerva project is using this pattern and a navy/black jacquard.  The jacquard is double layered where the navy stripes appear.  On the reverse side of the navy, it is black, and the reverse side of the black is navy.  So you can use either side of the fabric. Early June, I made a medium blue pair of slacks to wear with this shirt using Simplicity S9147 again. 

This project is actually finished, but I want pictures of me wearing the outfit before I post my final review. ;-)

That's all for today.  Happy Sewing!

C

Bright Orange/White Floral Speaks Summer - B6680

I finished this dress two days before my vacation.  Into the suitcase it went. The bright orange/white with royal blue floral knit was perfect for the sunny days of my Los Cabos vacation.  But I didn't get a chance to wear it!  Grrrgh..., Missed opportunity for a great photo shoot.

No worries.  Summer is coming!  And I'll have plenty of opportunities to wear it here is the States. But today, I wanted to take this opportunity to share my experience of making it.

My fabric comes from Mood Fabrics.  It's labelled Bright Orange White and Royal Blue Floral Printed Lightweight Ponte knit.  It has a smooth hand and has a firm weave with about 30% stretch.  Excellent recovery.  The colors are vibrant and rich.  Great print and color combination; perfect for summer.

The pattern used is Butterick B6680, published last year.  It is described as:  Misses' dress dress A, B, C is close-fitting with side gathers, neck and armhole bands; and slightly flared hem in three lengths.  I made view B below mid-knee length.  The pattern is available is sizes 6 to 22.  I used size 16 with modifications.


Three dress was on my to make list last year, but I didn't get around to making it until now.  I did a little online research to see if others had made it.  This is another pattern that I didn't find many pattern review for.  Only a few tried it, and they did not appear to have the same fit issues that I have.  I must admit, once I started to prep the pattern I wondered if the ruching at the side would be problematic.  Considering my swayback and the little fluff around the middle.

Anyway, I continued on with making a FBA.  Nothing extraordinary.  I just looked passed the curve on the left side where the ruching goes and followed the standard process of making a FBA.  I decided if darts are needed, then I sew them in.

Initial Dart on Right Side Just above the ruching

In the end I tested darts on both sides.   It was perfect on the left side.  But on the right side it didn't look good.  So I plucked out the stitches and extended the ruching through the dart area.  The construction process was to simply add the elastic.  The difference created by the dart needed to be gathered; then sewn together and elasticized.

Final Right Side with No Dart

Final Left Side with Dart

With that little challenge out of the way, my thoughts turned to whether or not this would be a good look for me given my swayback coupled with the ruching.  I did not do a swayback adjustment.  My rationale was it's ruched.  The extra would be ruched.  Anyway, it's a little more ruching then seen in the photograph and drawing, but it a good look.  So my only other fit adjustment was the prominent shoulder blade.

The instructions typical and easy.  Nothing confusing  Aside from my testing and adjusting, the dress went together very quickly.

I like the neck and armhole bands.  They create a very nice finish to the dress.  Godet of the right side and the flounce at the bottom of the dress add interest and flare, which I like as well.

No dislike.

This is a quick and easy dress to make if you don't have the FBA issue to address.  It easy to wear.  A nice casual summer dress that can be worn in the spring with a cardigan or jacket. I don't think I'll make it again, but I do recommend it to others.

Happy Sewing!
C

Baby It's Cold Outside - But I'm Keeping Warm in Christine Jonson Funnel Neck Top -Travel Trio 2

On one of my calls to my mama earlier during the week.  She answered the phone singing to me,  "Baby it's cold outside."  Then she chuckled and asked how were we getting along with the cold weather.  Well we are getting along.  It's to be expected for the Chicagoland area.  It's the coldest in January and February.  But tomorrow we will get a heat wave, high in the 20's.  By the weekend it will be about 40 degrees.  I'm glad we are getting close to tolerable temps.

Living in the mid-west all of my life, I know what to expect during the months of January and February.  So for the month of January, my goal was to concentrate on making some separates to beef up my winter gear.  Sure I have some turtlenecks and warm pants ready in my closet, but many are worn and need to be replaced.  So last week, I make this cute little funnel neck top, pattern designed by Christine Jonson.

I bought all three of her Travel Trio patterns way back in 2011 when Rhonda created the Travel Trio Challenge for the Haute Couture Club 2011-2012 Fashion Show.  I only made the Travel Trio One.  This year I'm revisiting the Trio patterns to enhance my wardrobe.  They are great basics.

In Trio Two:

• Funnel Neck top- close-fitting top with 3/4 length sleeves (with sleeve band) and funnel neck.
• Wrap Skirt- semi-fitted skirt with self-fabric ties that wrap around the back and tie in the front skirt may be made reversible.
• Hoodie- Hooded, loose-fitting jacket with long sleeves.  Jacket is fastened at top with button and self-fabric loop.  Jack may be made reversible.

Sizes 4 to 22; I used 14 with modifications

My Fabric is from FabricMart Fabrics.  It's a jersey poly/cotton knit with 30% 4-way stretch and great recovery.  Love it.  I still have about 2.5 yards left to make something else.

There are only three pattern pieces for the funnel neck top:  front/back, sleeve and sleeve band.  I didn't like the idea of using the one pattern for the front and back.  Because my front and back are different shapes and sizes.  So I traced off two copies of the front/back pattern and adjusted each for my body shape and measurements.

For the front, I wanted to test to see if I could get away again without making a bust dart.  So I adjusted the curve of the lower armscye and side above and at the bust area and tapered back to the size 14.

For the back I created a center back seam and made a swayback adjustments and adjusted the curve of the mid and lower armscye.

The sleeve doesn't have notched for the front and back.  I didn't like that either.  So I added them.  I think the shape of the front arm and back arm are different.  So for the back I added just a little more for the mid and lower armhole area.  The sleeve cap did not have the excessive amount of ease as the big four commercial patterns, which was a plus.  And the shoulder seam wasn't an inch too long either.  Two pluses.


Once I made my adjustments and cut out my funnel top, it took about 1.5 hours to make.  Super easy and all sewists can make it.

I really like how this funnel neck top turned out.  It's great for the winter; it keeps your neck and chest nice and warm.

Will I make it again.  You bet I will.  One of my goals this year is to look at ways to maximize the use of my patterns.  With this basic funnel neck top I could change the sleeve and/or make it into a simple knit dress.

More later on using this simple, but versatile pattern.

Happy Sewing!
C

Parting Shots:  My wearing Simplicity 8643