Vogue V2097 - Emerald Green Crepe Pants Suit

I'm finished it!  I'm so happy to finally be able to share my newest Vogue (V2097) outfit!

This outfit suits me.  I love so many details about the design and how everything came together.  If you have been following my journey of making this suit, I posted details on my pattern adjustments and the construction process.  Here is where you can read about the process.  

Pattern Description:  Partially lined, hourglass shape V-neck top sewing pattern, fitted through waist, has concealed front button closure, decorative flaps and asymmetric collar.  Fitted skirt, has invisible back zipper and back vent.  Semi-fitted pants have front pleats, side pockets and invisible back zipper.

Pattern Sizing:  Size groupings (6 - 14) & (16 - 24)  I used size 16 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it does.  I made a few changes with the closure of the pants.  More later.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Yes, there was nothing difficult in the instructions.  

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? 

I have several likes.  They are:

• Collar
• Pleated bodice
• Pleated high waisted pants
• In-seam buttonhole
• Darts at neckline
• Faux pockets

Dislikes:

• Back zipper
• Partially lined jacket

Fabric Used:  Stretch Polyester Crepe - Emerald Green from Mood Fabrics.  I love this fabric.  I bought three colors:  black, blue violet and the emerald green.  They have this stretch poly crepe in twelve different colors.  The crepe was a dry hand.  It is easy to handle and sew.  It hangs away from the body.  Great fabric to work with.  

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I made my usual fit adjustments.  See my Notes on a Pattern post.    For the pants, I put the zipper in the front, change the closure of the waistband, and lengthen the pants as needed.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Oh yes, I will make it again and again.  Lol  And yes, I do recommend it to others.  Make sure you make a muslin before cutting into your beautiful fabric.  

Conclusion:  I am so very happy with how this outfit turned out.  I love everything about it: the style, fabric, and color. I would consider this an advanced intermediate level project.   

Parting Shot:  My Babylon Leather Bucket Tote Bag is a perfect complement to this outfit.

Happy Sewing!

C

Update - Vogue V2097

It's been a long while since I posted any status on Vogue V2097.  It's been hanging on the dress form for a month now.  Teaching and other things have kept me away from finishing it.  But I hope to finish it before the end of the June and provide the final view and review.  

Today, I did want to share some likes and dislikes, though.

Likes -

• the collar.  The way it came together and the design of it.
• pleats on the bodice 
• Faux welt pockets.  There are no pockets, but...,
• darts at the neckline
• in-seam buttonhole
• high waisted pants

Dislikes -

• back zipper 

More later..,

Notes on a Pattern - Vogue V2097

 

Sewing Friends,

Here is another "Notes on a Pattern", Vogue V2097.  I really like this pattern, and want to make it this spring.  The silhouette is perfect for me. ;-)

Of course, I want it fit as well.  So, of course, adjustments and muslin are in order.  

So, with this top/jacket the FBA is a little different.  I basically slashed and spread between each dart and added some length to the bodice.  With this FBA, I also needed to do a little tuck at the neckline to keep it from gapping.  Adjustments had to be made on each of the collars to match the length of the neckline.

For the back, I made the prominent shoulder blade and swayback adjustments as per usual. The resulting muslin showed that I still need more room in the bust area and the pleats need to be moved slightly to the center of my torso so that the center pleat falls at the center for the bust.  Additionally, I'll need about a half inch added to the side seam.    So, with a little tweaking, this pattern will be ready for me to cut out my coordinate.

I transferred all of the markings, again, so that the location of the buttonholes, pockets and grainlines were visual on the muslin.

More later of Vogue  V2097.

Happy Sewing!

C

Notes on a Pattern - Burda Style Jacket 7321

 

Hi Sewing Friends,

Today's post is "Note on a Pattern" for Burda Style Jacket 7321.  For starters, I cut the pattern pieces at size 18 instead of 16.  I wanted to test to see if a larger size would give me a better fit.  I've noticed that some Burda Style sizing/cut run smaller than the Big Four.  

I made most of my usual fit adjustments:  FBA, swayback back, lengthen the sleeves, and slightly forward shoulders.  This jacket is short.  The hem is at the upper hip area. I prefer a longer jacket for this style.  So I lengthen the jacket by 2 inches above the waist.

My muslins fit pretty well, with the exceptions of the waist area.  It fits, but I like a little more move.  So, I will just an inch or two along the side seam.  Truly, though, adding the 2 inches to the length of the jacket may have something to do with the snug fit.

On the muslin, you can see that I transferred all of the markings. I wanted  to have a complete visual of the jacket; the location of the buttonholes and pockets as well as the grainlines. The back looks very good.  I like the darts at the shoulder for better shaping on me.  I didn't make a prominent shoulder blade adjustment.  That may also attribute to the snug fit.

There are a few drag lines in the upper chest area, which I will address.  I'm excited to make this jacket.  I think the style and the fit are good for me.  So with that said, I think I am off to a good start on making this jacket.

So, stay tune for updates on this jacket project.

Happy Sewing!

C

Notes on a Pattern - McCall M7929

Today's "Notes on a Pattern" is for McCall M7929.  

I couldn't skip this step in the fit process.  I wanted to be sure about the fit before I cut into my fashion fabric.  Luckily, the changes that I initially made to the tissue pattern were very close to what is needed to make this top work for me.  

In these notes, my main focus was the fitting the front bodice.  My muslin is a combination of view B and D.  It helps me to see how it all comes together and how it will look on me.

Below are the tissue pattern changes.  Here I made a full bust adjustment (FBA).

For the bodice back, I made swayback adjustment and I adjusted the back pattern for a zipper closure instead of a button closure.  Please forgive the pencils and pens.  I used them to hold the pattern pieces in place.  On both front and back I raised the neckline a little.  I hate how low pattern fall on me.

Now, to look at the outcome of my changes.  For the FBA, the bottom edge of the cup is now longer than  the midriff.  To reduce length,  the excess needed to be removed.  So on one side I made a dart and the other I ease in the excess.  I liked to dart better.  So, in my fashion fabric I will make a dart at the lower section of the cup.  

The back is very good with this muslin.  So I don't think I need to make any more substantial changes.  Maybe a little tweaking here and there.

The next is to determine whether to make the top or add a skirt to the top for a dress.  Stay tuned.

Happy Sewing!

C

Easy Simplicity Pullover Top - S9679 in Review

I've had Simplicity S9679 in my pattern collection for a while. I am just getting around to sewing it.  Of course, I had to do my usual fit adjustments; FBA and swayback.  In this review, I paired it with a TNT pants pattern S8389.  It is a go-to for an easy fit and sew coordinate.  

So let's begin the pattern review of Simplicity S9679

Pattern Description:  Misses' knit top with sleeve variations.

Pattern Sizing:  4 - 20; I used size 16 with modifications.  I made view B.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, it did.  Slight changes to address the adjustments made.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Yes,  the instructions were typical; nothing difficult or confusing in them.  

Was the construction easy?  Yes, the top went together with ease.  The most tedious part was finishing the opening across the upper chest and back.  This step required you to take your time.  This area is a focal point of the top.  I used some steam a seam to hold everything in place as I sewed.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  For this version of the top I have likes and dislikes.

 Likes -

• The seaming and the opening at the upper body. 
• The slant of the neck opening.  It adds interest to what would a simple pullover top.

Dislikes -

• Finishing of the armhole.  I added a binding to finish it.
• The armhole fit.  I could have created the problem when I slightly rise it.  But this is something that I noticed in other tops that have a sleeveless and sleeved version that used the same front and back pattern.  For my next version I'll try to address that.

Fabric Used:  I used a ribbed knit from Fashion Fabric Fabrics.  I love the chartreuse color of it.  The stretch recovery could be better.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  

• FBA - I used my molly t-shirt pattern to make it.  You can see where are made changes along the sides and at the lower front armhole.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

• Swayback adjustment - I first cut the lower back into two pattern pieces.  Next, I made the tuck on each pieces and added at the hem.  I added seam allowance to both patterns where they would be joined.   I didn't make a prominent shoulder blade adjustment.  It appears to be okay without it. 
• I shorten the opening to eliminate any gapping.
• I cut binding out of the fashion fabric to finish the armhole.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I plan to sew view C. And yes, I recommend it to others.

Conclusion:  I enjoyed making this pullover top.  It is a change from the typical t-shirt style pullover.  You can dress it up or down.  It's easy to sew for all sewing levels.

Happy Sewing!

C

The Brocade Makes The Jacket - Butterick B6915

A little over a year ago, I briefly mentioned my work on the muslin for the jacket of this pattern.  Since that time, I did more tweaking of the pattern and decided to use a beautiful brocade that I purchased from Mood Fabrics several years ago during a visit to New York.  

I thought the style of the jacket was the perfect match for the brocade.  Granted I did want to reduce any chance of something going wrong or turning out wonky before I cut into my fabric.  I really love the fabric and wanted to make something special with it.   

We are now in the hot, muggy days of summer.  It was 94 degrees when I took the photos of me wearing my outfit.  Though the coloration of my new suit is bright and cheery, it is perfect for the fall/winter season.  

Pattern Description:  Classic two-piece suit with a twist.  Lined jacket draws asymmetrically across the body and fastens with three buttons.  Jacket features flap detail at front.  Pants come in ankle length and includes invisible zipper on the side.  View C are wide leg pants.  I made view A and B.

Pattern Sizing:  It comes in two size groups (8 - 16) and (18 - 26) I used size 16 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, my outfit does look like the drawing and the suit that the model is wearing.  

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical and easy to follow.  There was nothing confusing about them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  

Likes -

• The asymmetrical style line of the jacket.
• The pleats at the neckline of the jacket
• The princess seam.

Dislikes -

• The one piece sleeve.  I prefer a two piece sleeve for a suit jacket.  These sleeves were snug and there was too much in the sleeve cap for my fabric.  When I made the muslin the amount of ease in the sleeve cap was easy to work into the armhole.  But in the brocade it was slightly difficult.  I had to set the sleeve three times.

Fabric Used:  My fabrics were purchased at Mood Fabrics during a trip to met up with several sewing friends (Carolyn, Andrea, Gaylen)  in New York.  My jacket fabric is a silk brocade and the pants is a medium weight polyester satin.  

 
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I made several pattern adjustments beginning with the full bust adjustment and my usual back adjustments.  I also lengthen the sleeves and added an inch width to the upper arm area.  For the pants I had to lengthen the leg and crotch.  Sorry no photo of that adjustment.

After making the adjustments and a muslin, I still needed to make a few tweaks as I sewed.  Below is a photo of me fitting the lower half of the jacket along side of photo of the finished outfit.  See the difference in the flare of the peplum.  I ripped it all out and reduced the peplum along the sides. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I think once is enough.  But, I do recommend this pattern to others.  You should make a muslin before cutting into your fashion fabric.

Conclusion: I'm pleased with how this suit turned out.  I'll probably wear it the first chance I get when cooler weather returns.  This pattern is not difficult to sew. It's time consuming and you should take your time and enjoy the process.