Simplicity S8844 Mad About Plaid

This plaid blazer is part of my Brown/Cream Wardrobe Capsule.  (I know it probably seems like I'm all over the place.  But there is a method to my madness. Tee Hee.) Anyway, I've been wanted to sew more plaids this year.  And I was happy to be gifted this stretch plaid suiting from Minerva Fabrics.  When I first selected this fabric, I really didn't know which jacket I would make.  I wanted to choose a pattern that would complement the plaid.  Simplicity S8844 was one of three jackets that I'd plan to make before the end of the year.  

The pattern is described as Misses'/Miss petite unlined blazer with front variations with individual pattern pieces for B, C, D, and DD cup sizes.  It comes in sizes 6 through 24.

The princess seams and the individual cup sizes are what sold me.  My hoped the FBA pattern piece would only need tweaking.  So I used size 16, view A, with still a lot of modifications.  The changes included fit, construction, and design.

For the most part my jacket looked liked the one on the envelope.  The modelled jacket looks a little to full in the upper chest area though.  The instructions were typical.  I didn't see anything difficult in them.  Half of them I didn't follow because I changed a lot of the construction steps and techniques to suit my own preferences.

There were a few things that I like about it and a few things I didn't care for.  I'll start with the likes:

• The separate pattern pieces for the cup sizes.  I wanted to spend less time adjusting the pattern. 
• Princess seams.  Easier to adjustment
• Gathered sleeve cap
• Separate pattern pieces for the upper and lower collar
• Separate pattern pieces for the front and front facing

Dislikes:

• Length of the shoulder seam.  I don't under stand why the pattern company makes them so long.  I removed about 1.75" from the end.
• "Unlined" blazer.
• One piece sleeve.  I prefer a two piece sleeve

My fabric choice is a stretch suiting from Minerva Fabrics.  It has a slightly coarse hand.  It sews and presses beautifully.  The plaid is Glenn plaid, I think.  It's uneven.  The matching of the plaid was a bit of a challenge.  I came close with the matching; it's not perfect but wearable. For the lining, I used an anti-static cream colored lining from Vogue Fabrics.  Nothing fancy.  I just pulled it from my stash.

I didn't have to make my usual FBA.  I was able to tweak the DD pattern to fit.  Then I made my usual swayback, prominent shoulder blades, and lengthening the sleeves. 

My other changes were more construction and style preference changes.  They are:

• Lined the entire jacket
• I made my own shoulder pads.  There was a hallow area between the upper chest and armpit area.  So I made them larger than the average pad.
• I added hem facings to the sleeve.  This change was because I didn't add enough length to the sleeve.  This worked out fine.
• Cut the pockets of the bias.  I love the weight of the interfaced patch pocket.  And I love the bias cut of them. It plays of the plain on the front of the jacket adding a little more interest to the style.
• I sewed on the pocket after the jacket was assembled.

Note:  I need to move the button about 1/2" up.  The length of the front edge are the same.  I just need to move the button.  I noticed it after I saw the pictures.

I want to make this again soon.  But before that happens, I want to make a pair of pants.  I had enough fabric left.  So hopefully, I will share that project soon.  They are cut and ready to sew.

I recommend this pattern to all level sewists.  Make a muslin first.  I had to make two ;-)  It's important to test before you cut into your fashion fabric. 

Overall, I happy with how this jacket turned out.  It will be in high rotation.  The color looks great with red, and of course, brown.

  

This blazer is not difficult to sew, but there may be some adjustments needed.  Adding a lining was relatively easy to do.  I just used the jacket pattern pieces to do so.  The back facing looks much nicer with the entire jacket lined.

Until next time, happy sewing!

C

Pockets Simplicity S8844

I changed the construction of the patch pocket for my Simplicity S8844 jacket, view A.  The original pocket is unlined, but I chose to line them instead.  Also, I didn't want to try to match the plaid.  So I cut them on the bias.  

Here are the steps that I used to make the plaid on plaid patch pocket.

I interfaced them to help maintain the shape.. Using the pocket pattern I cut the lining 1.25" shorter than the pocket.

Next, I stitched the upper edge of the pocket to the lining leaving an opening. Pressed the seam allowance forwards the lining. 

I Sewed the lining to the pocket starting at the top, making sure the seam allowance is sewn 5/8" all the way around.  Note- For curved pockets, I sew one side halfway around, then flip it to sew the other side sewing slightly passed the end of the previous stitch. 

Next, I trimmed the seam allowance at the curve and notched the edge. Then, I turned the pocket to the right side, using a pointer creaser to make sure the pocket is completely turned out. While pressing I slightly rolled the pocket to the inside to help reduce the possibility of the lining showing on the outside.

Next I stitched the opening closed. Pressed again. Pinned the pocket in place. 

Next step, I usually base it in place and then machine sew.  That's it.

Happy Sewing!

C