Valentino Inspired Dress - Fancy Mood Floral Roses Jacquard and Simplicity 1011

Plain and simple:  there is nothing like a beautiful piece of fabric.  Just the mere fact that it is gorgeous makes you imagine how proud you feel to wear something made of it. This is the case with Mood's Black Malaga Floral Roses Jacquard and Eggplant Polyester Lining.  The pairing of these two fabrics was a winning combination for my latest dress.   This jacquard is rich and luxurious, the pattern is intricately woven with a glossy under tone.  It has a smooth hand, unlike most brocades, but just as radiant.  The lining is perfect for it.  It is very smooth and has similar movement as the jacquard.

My inspiration for this dress comes from one of my favorite designers, Valentino.  I'm always dreaming about making something spectacular drawing from the simplest details in hopes of translating them into my very own creations.  The vertical lines that are seen throughout Valentino's Fall 2016 collection is were I drew my inspiration for this dress.  I posted a few pictures on my blog.  

Pattern Description:

Simplicity never really spends anytime given good descriptions of the pattern.  So, here's my description:  princess seam "V" neck bodice with individual pattern pieces for B, C, D,and DD cup sizes.  The four panel high-low skirt of the dress has four inverted pleats: two in the front and two in the back.  The dress includes two sleeve options or can be made sleeveless with a belt that is attached to the back with two buttons.  The pattern is available in sizes 10 to 28W.

My dress does look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope with the exception of my "small" design changes.

There were no confusing steps in the instructions.  Like all the amazing fit patterns, Simplicity include instructions on how to fine tune the fit as you sew.

My Likes -

There are a lot of reasons why I like and chose this pattern:

• It included my cup size and I wanted to test it to see if it would fit with minimum fit changes.
• Princess bodice, easier to fit, if the "Amazing Fit" bust size didn't fit.
• low-high skirt.
• "V" neckline
• Lantern style sleeve, five darts, makes for an interest sleeve detail. I only wish it was a little more pronounced.

I have no serious dislikes.  




Fit Changes -

I decided to use Simplicity Amazing Fit S1011 in hopes of limiting the amount of fit adjustments that I normally make.  Surprisingly, that was the case with this pattern.  I used size 14, DD cup, with only a few tweaks.

After making the muslin, I determined that a few small changes would produce a better fit:

• Add 1/4 at the fullness of the bust area to the side front and front.
• Add 1/2 width to the back, creating a neck dart.
• Make a swayback adjustment.
• Add an inch to the length of the bodice.  In hind-sight, I think that was too much.
• Add an inch or two to the length of the skirt so that the hem would fall at my knee.
• Add an inch to the belt, for good measure, didn't need it.

It seems like many changes, but these were mostly small tweaks, unlike the full process of making a FBA that I normally make.  There is one more tweak I should have made, and that is to the length of the shoulder seam.  It's too long.  Next time I'll reduce it by 1/2 inch.

Design and Construction Changes -

•  I lined the entire dress.  The pattern only gives instructions on lining the skirt of the dress. 
• To emphasize the vertical lines, I added a floral trim with a Medallion style motif along the front and back seems of the bodice.  Luckily, I had buttons with a similar design to hold the belt in place.
• Added hem tape to the skirt of the dress.  It looks nicer.
• The instructions (#4) has you to form the pleat by bringing folds to broken lines.  I simply bring the lines together, basting to form the pleats.  It's easier.
• Step 1b, I didn't follow.  I prefer to stay-stitch along the front and back; then slashing the seam allowances to fit the curve of the side front and side back.

I like how my dress turned out.  And I will definitely use the bodice again for another dress and as a sloper.  This is a good basic dress pattern that can be used to create a variety of looks and styles.

It's a little chilly and windy outside.  Resting my coat for a five minute photo shoot.

Happy Sewing!
C

Unity Conference Dress 2016 - Simplicity 1156

Photo taken day after event, Monday afternoon.

For the past several years, almost every Unity Conference I've made a new cream or white dress.  This year is no different.  But I must say I thought, "By now I should have enough white/cream to wear for this annual event."  I also thought, "I wish the principle color was a color instead of white/cream."   Oh well, it's been this way since I could remember.  So I concluded that next year I will repeat something already in my closet and make myself a vibrant birthday dress instead.

With that being said, here is my review  for my Unity Conference dress 2016.  The fabric used was a gift to me.   I don't know the fabric content, but I suspect it is a polyester/rayon blend.  It washes beautifully and wears well.  It has a wonderful texture.  There are three layers: top, bottom and a very light filler.  It's not quilted, but it is fused somehow to create what look like stitching from a distance.  Very nice.

For this dress I used Simplicity 1156.  It's an "Amazing Fit" pattern.  It includes separate patterns for B, C, D,and DD cups sizes.  The fabrics recommended are woven, but I used a knit.  It's what I had on hand and I thought it would be easy to make given the fabric had quite a bit on stretch in it.

The dress is described as misses' dress with individual pattern pieces for slim, average and curvy fit and B, C, D, and DD cup sizes.  I used size 14 and average, view A.  The category of pattern promises an "Amazing Fit" because of the multiple pattern pieces for the cup sizes.  It also includes inch side seam allowances to help make fitting easier.  Now this does not mean you can bypass an adjustment like the sway back adjustment.

The seaming of the dress allows you some extra points of adjustment that may not be available in dresses with fewer style lines.  For my dress, the knit fabric made it that much easier.  My choice of sizing was pretty good. for the bust area.  But for the other seams I made adjustments.  Some allowances were greater than an inch.  It worked out fine though.  Once I got the fit, I serged the edges.

Accent color fuchsia. Shown with self-made corsage.

When my dress was finished it did look like the photo on the envelope, with the exception of the length.  I added a few inches.

There was nothing difficult or confusing about the instructions.  Typical.

The reason I picked this pattern was because I wanted something very quick and easy.  This fit the bill.  The style lines gave opportunity to fit and I prayed that the cup sizes would work for me.  And it did.

Taken on Sunday, Worn with self-made corsage.

My dislike are related to the drafting of the pattern:  neckline, the shape of the skirt, and facings (neck and armhole).  I prefer a closer fit about the neck and a slightly tapered skirt.  So I made slight adjustments to both areas.   Facings are a pain.  If you stitch them down all the way around, there is a possibility that the stitching will show through to the right side.  I just stitched in the ditch at the side and shoulder seams.  I also had to make a sway back adjustment.


I probably won't sew this pattern again.  But recommend it to other.

This is a very easy dress to make.  The style lines gives more opportunities to make adjustments as you sew.  The angled side seams are pretty nice too. 

Happy Sewing!
C