Minerva ITY Silky Knit - McCall M7812 and Simplicity S9147 Third Time Is A Charm

This is a showing of a new top and pair of pants using patterns I've used before.  Once I work out fit issues of a good wardrobe staple pattern, it's so easy to make it again and again.  Such is the case with both M7812 and S9147.

It's been a few years since I used McCall 7812.  Here is the link to my review.  Simplicity 9147 is a new release, and I've made a modified version of the pants three times in less than four months.  Link to initial review is here.  Both patterns are now a TNT (tried and true) for me.  

For my latest version of the top, I used a lovely ITY silky knit from Minerva Fabrics.  I love the bold print and the vibrant colors.  Perfect for my little blue and red wardrobe.  My slacks are made using a beautiful stretch woven that I got from Mood Fabrics several years ago.  It was originally slated for a dress, but I changed my mind. Lol.  I have enough left  for a vest, which I'll make later.  Both fabrics were pre-washed and dried before I cut into them.  

So here is to TNT's.  Which TNT's do you most often grab?  Please share. ;-)

Happy Sewing!  More to come.

C

 

September Hat Challenge - Inspiration and Pattern Review Vogue V7784

 

I decided to participate in Carol's September Hat Challenge.  It was an opportunity to get one more thing off my sewing to do list.  You see, I'd plan to make a Dior inspired hat months ago when I saw an ad in a fashion magazine.  Carol's challenge was all I needed to get moving on it.  

 

Since the start of the Covid-19 pandemic and my mask making, I've been going through bin after bin of fabric searching for cottons to use for masks.  In my search, I reacquainted myself with all the beautiful remnants I have stored away for the perfect accessory project.  I pulled several pieces from the bins and tossed them into the washer to freshen them up.  I chose to use this lovely brocade from Vogue Fabrics and a medium weight black faille from Mood Fabrics for the hat;  Remnant lining from a coat that I made last year and a 1" gross grain ribbon leftover from a skirt project.  That's a lot of leftover pieces.  Good thing is I've documented my sewing journey on this blog and in journals to help me keep track of all the wonderful sewing experiences that I've had over the years.  

 

For my project, I used a Patricia Underwood Vogue pattern, (V7784).  It's OOP, but you can find a copy on Etsy or Ebay.

There are seven lined hats of various shapes and sizes. I used view D.  The brim on the pictured hat appears to be stiffer than my brim.  But overall the design and look of the hat is the same.  Next hat, I'll interface the entire hat for a stiffer finish.  

The instructions were easy to follow and there weren't any confusing steps.  I did make a few changes though.  After stitching the under and upper brims together, I under stitched the outer edge for a polished finish.  Then I proceeded with channel stitching the brim.  Because the back brim is smaller than the front, I decreased the distance of the stitching beginning at three inches before the center back and three inches after the center back.  Also, I contrasted the under brim with the back faille because there wasn't enough of the brocade to make two brims.

I bought this pattern almost two decades ago.  Simply, I liked the design/style of the hats and knew one day I would make them for myself or for someone.  Luckily, this pattern was perfect for the inspired Dior hat.  My favorite part of this view is the detailing on the crown and the channel stitching on the brim. 

This was the first but not the last hat.  I already have remnants ready to go for the second one.  A dear friend was over yesterday and she loved the hat.  My DD wants to take my new hat!  So, already I need to make at least two more of this view alone.  ;-)

 

I do recommend this pattern to others.  Especially, those who want to use up some of their short yardages and who may consider this as a gift item.  It's easy to sew and the instructions are simple. The end results is a beautiful hat custom made to your desire.

Happy Sewing!

C

New Look N6594 in Review - Green Wardrobe Capsule PTIV

 

Finally, I posting about the fourth garment in my Green Wardrobe Capsule. It's been three weeks since the last post. My goal was to post a "Notes on a Pattern" next. But because I was "distracted" by so many other things, I never got a chance to post it. So today I decided to go ahead and post a complete pattern review of NL6594 instead. 

This dress took more time than I expected. My adjustments were a little off. Not making a muslin before hand caused a little set back. I ended up making the bodice twice. Thank God I had enough leftover fabric to do so. 

Anyway, this fourth garment completes the first segment of my Green Wardrobe Capsule. Here is the review. 

 

The pattern description is so unbelievably vague.  My description - Dresses with fitted bodice, front midriff,  and slightly flared skirt; side zipper. The dress comes with multiple length and sleeve variations.  It is available in sizes 8 to 20.  I made view C with shorten skirt and 16 with modifications. 

I used a beautiful kelly green tencel twill from Mood. The fabric is super smooth and easy to work with.   It's also very fluid and light on the body.  

My dress does look like the dress on the envelope.  But I expected it to be a little more flared.  As usual, I did make a few changes for fit and construction.  Those changes didn't change the overall silhouette of the dress.

First, I made several fit adjustments to the tissue pattern.  Those changes include:

• FBA, little tuck along the neckline for a better fit along the bust area.
  
• Swayback
• Prominent shoulder blades, which produced a little dart in the shoulder seam
• Length of skirt between view B and view C
• No darts in the back skirt
  

 

After making the changes, I really needed to make a muslin.  Because there were areas where I needed to do a little more tweaking.  These changes weren't identified until after I almost completed the bodice.  You can image I didn't want to pluck all of those seam apart.  I decided to cut a whole new bodice, which in my mind took less time to do then taking the first one apart.

Last thought on that:  Make a muslin.

 

Construction changes:  

• Instead of tacking down the facing to the dress,  I machine stitched in the ditch at the front gathered bodice and along the shoulder darts.
• For the hem, I just serged the raw edges of the sleeves and hem, turned and stitched.

Close to the end of completing this dress I was ready to be finished.  I felt like I spent too much time on a very simple dress.

 

 

The instructions provided with the pattern easy, simple and typical.  Nothing confusing in them. 

There are a few things that I like about the style of this pattern:

• The design and style of the front bodice.  This is a style that I'm fond of.  Partly, because of my body type, inverted triangle.  I think a more fitted "V" bodice looks best on me.  Sometimes I over compensate, which was the case of the initial bodice.  I think I almost got it right.
• I also like the a-line skirt.  But it doesn't exactly work for me in this dress.  I think a fuller skirt would look much better.

 

I don't think I really have any serious dislikes. There is one thing I don't like; and that is, side zippers.  I prefer back or front closures.  One of my goals with making this dress was to fit a likeable bodice that I can interchange with other skirt designs.  This one I'll make again. 

A nice little dress that I recommend to others.  It is not a difficult dress to make I'd rate it average.  My dress is good. But I will tweak the bodice just a little more.  Then I make it again with a fuller skirt.  

This completes my review of my fourth garment of my Green Wardrobe Capsule.  I wanted to make one more dress for the summer season.  But, Fall is upon us.  So, I will start a new capsule:  Blues and Reds.  More on that later.

Happy Sewing!

C

 

Sewing For My Sweet Pea - Simplicity S1803

While looking at fabric options for a sundress for me, guess what happened?  My Sweet Pea enters my sewing room and sees all my possible fabric sections

Conversation:

Sweet Pea - What's up?

Me - Planning my next projects for summer.

Sweet Pea - Oh this is pretty.  Can I get a dress please?

Me - Well, okay.  You sure you want this fabric?

Sweet Pea - Oh yes.

Me - Okay then.  What style would you like?

Sweet Pea - Anything, Mama.  You pick.  Thanks.

Sweet Pea leaves the room.  Me feel like what just happened?  I wanted that fabric for me.  Lol

Anyway, Sweet Pea got a new dress in the middle of me planning a new dress for myself.  Got to appreciate a daughter who allows her mother to pick, choose, and sew clothes for her.

I made it easy on myself.  I selected a pattern that I've used before. Yet again. Lol  Simplicity S1803

The initial review is here if you are interested.

For this version, I used a different bodice and sleeve style.  I also lengthen the dress by a few inches.  Unlike before, I kept it simple using the instructions, no beading or tulle.  Just a simple sundress

The fabric is a stretch cotton twill that I ordered from Mood Fabrics several years ago.   This color is not available any longer, but Mood does have a similar print on a white background available, 307111.

Needless to say, she likes it.  What not to like?  Anyway, I made her two matching masks out of the leftover remnants.

So that's it for now.  Short and sweet.

Parting Shots:  Beautiful flowers in Veterans Memorial Park.  This is one of our favorite places to take pictures of my handmade treasures.

Happy Sewing!

C

What's Going On

Hi everyone,

It's been a minute! Okay, several minutes (weeks) since I last posted.  I've been quiet on the blog this month, but I'm busy working multiple projects with most of my sewing time being sent of my latest coat project. This will be the second year that I chose to make a coat close to Spring instead of in the fall.  Believe it or not, it's a good time to make a coat in preparation for the next fall/winter season.  The excitement of having something new is not lost because it is the end of the season make.  Living in the mid west, I can expect at least two more months of cold weather and will probably get to wear my new coat at least a few times before it's stored in the coat closet. Then when winter comes again, it will be just as nice to have a new made coat to keep me warm.

My new coat is made using a Simplicity Project Runway pattern that I purchased many years ago.  I'm calling it a coat of many pieces.  The version that I'm making requires the use of 21 pattern pieces.  That's a lot!  I'm using a black wool blend from Minerva Crafts online store.  The plan this weekend is to finish my coat.  So stay tune to the reveal and full review.

Another thing that has been keeping me busy is pattern preparation for upcoming projects.  This year, I'll be trying several new jacket and dress patterns.  When I say "new" I mean it will be the first time to make something using them.  I'm continuing my plan to make a variety of jackets/coats to complement my wardrobe.  Additionally, my dress collection is a little anemic, in my mind. ;-).  There are a few I want to make this spring and summer.  Below are a few that I'm currently working on with  potential fabric already to cut and sew.

Mood Fabric #328986

Mood Fabrics #MD0368

So, that's my little sewing update.  Hopefully I'll have another post up before next week.

Happy Sewing!

C

Vogue V1275 - The Other View

After making and being happy with the outcome of view B, I was still on the fence about giving view A a try. My apprehension was centered around the ruching and if it would make me look fluffier than I am.  These days I'm focusing more and more on making good choices for flattering styles and colors.

As the years go by, gravity and metabolism try to take over the shape and density of my body.  More than ever exercise and better fashion choices are  of great importance.  I try to always look my best.

So when I decided to go ahead with making view A, my thought was the ruching is center front as oppose to on the sides.  This might work for me.   

This view didn't take as long as view B.  The difference was the careful placement of the trim and the experience of first time sewing a pattern.  The ruching was only a matter of gathering up the front to fit the side front sections.  The elastic wrist, quick and easy:  measure, cut, place, and sew.

My fabric is from Mood. A polyester jersey that is nearly sold out. 

 Mood has other similar fabrics that are equally beautiful. 


I'm happy I decided to give it a try.  Another successful make in the knit top category.  BTW- I've been sewing a lot of knit tops lately. (NOTE: a few more to post from last year.)  I think it's time to make some woven shirts and blouses.

Vogue 1275, View B 2019

Anyway, this is another win for me.  I do recommend both views of Vogue 1275 if this is your style.  So, if you have the pattern give it a try.

Happy Sewing!
C

New Look NL6013 Finished Jacket Reveal - Not Just One But Two

Finally, I have some pictures of me wearing my new jacket!  Sometimes it is a challenge coordinating my photo shoots with my DD schedule, But we final got it done!

Here is the link to the first post on New Look NL6013 Jacket Project. 


If you read the title of this post, you'll know that I not only finished the first jacket.  But also made a second one.  All of the adjustments were so labor intensive, I decided to go ahead with making another one.

My second version is made with a stretch woven from Fabric Mart.  I bought this fabric last June while attending Sew Camp.  It is like a beefy scuba knit, heavy enough for a coat.  The stretch is maybe 1 or 2 percent, not a lot.  I love the rich color of it and am very glad I bought it.  This fabric caught my eye after I made my big purchase.

The sewing was easy.  No more major adjustments needed.  For this jacket I decided to make it as designed:  no lining or welt pockets added.  I added another inch to the length of the jacket, making it a total of three inches added.  The original jacket length is more like vest length.  With my board shoulders the shorter length makes me look wider than I am.  And that's not good.  The new length is perfect.

I did make one other change: no shoulder pads.  This fabric has a lot of body and holds it's shape very well.

I didn't have enough fabric for the under lapel.  So I used a Marcy Tilton ponte knit remnant.  I was so happy I kept it.  Turns out it was the perfect weight, lighter than the jacket fabric.  A plus as it reduced the bulk along the neckline. Score!

I'm happy with the outcome of both jackets.  The first has a few tailored features and the feel of the natural fibers is wonderful.  I'm very pleased with how the welt pockets turned out. The second jacket is more slenderizing; the fabric a little stiffer but wear well.

So that's it for New Look 6013 jacket for now.  I'm working out my sewing plans for February, which will include a coat and a skirt so far.

Oh I forgot to mention, sewing for January, 2020:  two jackets, two pull over tops, and one pair of pants.  The pants are a waddler. I'm actually wearing them with the first jacket.  All kinds of issues.  More on the January sewing review later.

Happy Sewing!
C