Showing posts with label maxidress. Show all posts
Showing posts with label maxidress. Show all posts

Monday, October 8, 2018

Vogue 1352 - A Seemingly Easy Vogue Dress





I love wearing maxi dresses. Especially a comfortable one.  My review today is on a Rebecca Taylor Vogue pattern (V1352)  It's been out for a few years, copyright 2013.  When it was first published, I hesitated on buying it.   Then after about two years, I did.  If it works; good.  If not, in the trash it goes.

You're wondering why I hesitated?  The "required" FBA and the possibly of me not being able to get the "perfect" neck binding finish.  The FBA with all that gathering could be a bad look on me.  And who wants I wonky neckline on top of that. Anyway..,

There are only five pattern pieces.  Sounds pretty easy, right?  For the most part it was once I tweaked, tweaked it.


This is a pullover maxi dress with a gathered neckline. The front is a mock wrap bodice with a small inverted triangle at the center front.  It has short sleeves, and an elasticized waist.  I used size 16 with modifications.  Some I could have skipped if I may add.

The pattern is available in two size groupings:  (8-16) and (16-24).

The drawing and photos do look very much like my dress.  My neck binding is wider  because I didn't do the folder process.  I like the wider binding and the front opening drapes just a little, but the modeled dress does not.  I didn't think about making a tuck along the opening to reduce the length of it.   If I make it again, I'll make that adjustment.  Also, the back neckline is much lower on the modeled dress.  And I think my dress has a little more wearing ease than the one pictured on the envelope.


My fabric is a jersey knit from Vogue Fabrics in Evanston.  I bought three yards and knew that I'd make a maxi dress out of it.  I love the colors and the smooth hand of this knit.  It has a nice weight and great recovery.  I used a microtex sewing needle, size 12.

The instructions were typical and easy to understand.  But I didn't follow then to the letter. I also made a few fit adjustments.  All noted below:

  • I didn't do the double needle top stitches along the front and to hem the sleeve.  And no top stitching on the neck binding.

  • The first time I attached the neck binding I followed the instructions: basting it and matching the notches and circles, with right sides together.  When I tried it on, it didn't lay flat as illustrated on the envelope. So, I decided to take a break and think about how to make it work.  After a  day or two, I tried it on again to determine the amount of excess binding to remove.  The neck binding was about six inches too long.  Luckily, I did not removed the gathering stitches.  I measured each section of the dress bodice: front 6.5; sleeve 4.125; and back 5.5 (I created a center back seam that wasn't needed.  More below on that.).  For the neck binding, I reduced each section by an inch and removed the basting  so I could stretch the band to fit each section of the neckline.  I did not change the location of the center front large circles where the front opening is attached.  If that makes sense.  The results were perfect.  The band lies flat and smooth.  I didn't in case the raw edges of the binding.  Maybe next time.  I like the width of the binding as shown on my version of the dress.





Portion of the neck binding with the new marking on it.



  •  The construction of the sleeve was a little weird too.  The ends are not sewn together, but overlapped at the top of the side seam.  If you follow the instructions, you'll end up with raw edges showing on the right side of you dress.  I curved the outer end into the armscye so that no raw edges were exposed.  Note:  the armhole is wide and low.  It wouldn't hurt to raise the armhole about an inch or two.  That will eliminate the exposure of your under garments.

  • I didn't cut the back on the fold.  I should have.  This dress is roomy and I really didn't require a prominent shoulder blade adjustment.  Anyway, the center back seam took up the added width of that adjustment.  Save..,
  • Full bust adjustment - just a small one to add a little width and length.  This FBA does not create I bust dart.  

  • Finally, I added a few inches to the length of the dress.
After working through all those changes and adjustments, I still like the dress for the ease of wear, the mock wrap bodice, and the gathered neckline.



I have an obscene number of dress patterns to try, but I'll kept this one for me just in case I want to make it again.



Vogue rated this dress as easy to make.  It is once you've worked out the kinks.  Remember, it's very loose fitting.  The armholes are low and the neck binding may be too long.  Other than that it's good.

Happy Sewing!
C








Thursday, September 20, 2018

Keeping Cool in Butterick 6451 - Last Dog Days of Summer




Ohwee!  The intense heat encouraged me to put on my new maxi-dress.  At first, I was only going to  take a few pictures in it; then put it away for my vacation.  NOT!  Too HOT!  Fall is literally around the corner, but typical Illinois September weather today it is in the 90's with 90% humidity, tomorrow it is in the 60's.   I stepped outside my door and it felt like I stepped into a spa sauna.  My face went flesh before I could walk on the driveway. 


That being said, it's clear that this dress is very appropriate for today's steamy temps.  I used Butterick 6451 for my lovely dress.  At least I think so.

The dress is described as: very loose-fitting pullover dress has elastic at neckline, and/hem variations.  A, B:  Elastic at waist.  My favorite view is view B the one that I made.  It was super easy and only took a few hours to make.  It's certainly a summertime wardrobe piece.  The dress is comfortable and effortless to wear.  I chose to wear mine with a wide belt partly to help define my waist and to break up the print of the dress.




The sizing comes in groupings (XS, S, M) (L, XL, XXL)  I purchased the second grouping.  It was the only size left.  Normally I would have purchased the first size. On the website the size groupings are different than what is actually printed on the pattern envelope.  Using the large, I just scaled it down a little.  Remarkably, not my usual adjustments to fit it.  The neckline and the back were my fit concerns to which I made very little change.  I cut the elastic for the neck and waist just a little smaller.  My other changes were to use self bias tape for the armhole facing and the casing for the waist elastic.  This was really easy to do with a bias tape maker and a few stripes of fabric cut of the bias to fit those areas.


My dress does look like the one pictured on the model. Cute..,

   
Likes:

  • Flounce neckline with option to pull it around the shoulders.
  • Floaty affects of the challis fabric
  • Comfort of wearing the dress.
  • My change to use self bias tape for the facing and casing.
  
Dislike:
  • Instructed use of stiff packaged bias tape.  The application areas look better with self bias tape.

My fabric was purchased at Vogue Fabrics in Evanston, rayon challis print.

I see a few more of these dresses in my future.  The next time I make it, I'll bring the armhole up a little bit (1").  This is a dress, I think, all level sewists can make with no problems.

Parting Shot:  Me starting to sweat after only a few minutes in the sun.



Happy Sewing!
C

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