Press, Press, Stitch, Press - McCall 2233

Press, press, stitch, and press.

In sewing, pressing is just as important as stitching. This is something that I teach my sewing students.  One of the first projects that we make is an apron.

An apron gives students repeated opportunities to practice pressing and straight stitching, essential to developing good basic sewing skills.  I like teaching these skills using a basic apron like McCall's m2233.

This apron project was at the bottom of the UFO box that I decided to tackle at the beginning of the year.  Two aprons were cut almost ten years ago!  Last week I decided to finish them. One I will give to one of my sewing students and the other I'll keep for myself.  

The instructions included were antiquated. To form the strap they instruct to sew with right sides together to form a tube, then turn to the right.

Instead, I decided to press by folding it in half lengthwise, then turning the raw edges in. The same way that you would form belt carriers. See below.

The entire apron: hems, pockets, and straps are all completed by a series of folded edges, presses, and stitches.

Benefits to student:

• Ample practice with pressing
• Ample practice with straight stitching
• Ample practice with measuring and forming hems and seam allowance
• Opportunity to use needle positioning to create double rows of stitching for a hem
• Attaching straps and "D" rings

In conclusion,  a sewing student is able to create  agreat looking aprons that they can be proud of.

The fabric that I used for these came from Joann's.  A novelty cotton depicting a love for sewing.

That's all for this post.  I'm happy to complete two more UFO'S. 

Fall Dress - Butterick B6621

Finally, I'm writing my pattern review for B6621.  It's been one solid month since I made this dress.
Time waits for no one.  It seems like the summer started yesterday.  But now September is two away.  One good thing is I now have two fall like or transitional dresses in my closet.

For this second dress, I was lucky enough to get a few good pictures on me wearing it. 

Anyway, dresses are my favorite to make.  This one is very popular in the sewing community.  Butterick describes the dresses as:  Close-fitting knit dress has front, neckline and sleeve variations and double-stitched hems.  B, C ties are single thickness, wrong side of fabric may show.  I'd like to add:  view A, the dress I made, also has a twist front just above the waist and the back for all views has a center back seam.  (Lately, the Big-4 pattern companies are designing the back of tops and dresses to have a center back seam.)  All dresses are A-line.

 

The size range is 6-22, which is great.  I used size 14-16 with modifications.

My dress does look like the drawing on the envelope with the exception of the sleeve length.  I had enough fabric for the long sleeve so why waste the fabric.

The instructions were typical.  Nothing difficult about them though.

This dress was simple to make and easy to wear.   Those were the first things that draw me to the pattern.  Next, I thought the twist front would save me on the FBA.  And it did.  I actually, cut the neck and shoulders at size 14, gradually cutting up to 16 along the front armhole through the hem.  Pretty much cutting the back the same way.  I did make my usual sway back adjustment and added a little belt across the back to give the dress some definition along the my waist.  Lastly, I lengthen the sleeves 1.5 inches.The adjustment that I forgot to do was lengthen the dress a few inches.

This lovely poke-a dot ITY knit came from Fabric Mart Fabrics.  I purchased it during my Sew Camp retreat. It was the end of the bulk measuring about 2 yards, 58" wide.

I might make it again.  Between the two twist front dresses that I've made, my favorite is the McCall's (M7429) red and black dress that I made a few years ago.  But I do recommend this pattern (B6621)   to others.  It's a quick sewing project that yields great results.  I like my new dress.  It suits me.

Parting Shots:  I wanted to take this opportunity to showcase one of my sewing students.  Bonnie B. has been taking lessons from me about a year and a half.  When she first came, all she wanted to learn was how to make darts.  Well, since that first dart making sessions the list of sewing technique achievements is about a page long.  I'm happy that she is sewing a large variety of projects.  She wearing McCall M7356.

Rhonda and Susan's Workshop - Chicago November, 2014

Susan Khalje teamed up with Rhonda Buss for a mini workshop in Chicago.  How cool is that?  I had the pleasure of being one of the fortunate souls (sewists) who attended the sold out workshop last November. The group gathered at Soutache on the North side of Chicago for a full day of learning from master designers/couturiers.

Susan and Rhonda taught several couture, design, and fitting techniques. The day begin with Susan teaching the participants how to sew a couture skirt using fine guipure lace. The construction process is slow and the lace is meticulously shaped as one continuous piece. Her lessons also included tips and techniques on the construction of a beautifully sewn brocade dress that included underlining, inter-support system, and hand picked zipper. Susan gave us step by step instructions on the hand picked zipper process. In that lesson, I discovered I had missed a very important part of the process. Where the two sides meet, center of the zipper, there should be a slight hump when the zipper is closed. When the garment is worn and forms to the shape of the body, there will be no zipper exposure. This simple step in the process makes a world of difference in the finishing of a hand picked zipper.

By lunch time the students were all smiles and very pleased with what they had learned thus far. During break everyone was sharing sewing experiences and asking questions. Each person bought their own lunch, though a few kind ladies bought salad and desserts to share with everyone. Mily, the owner of Soutache, was on hand. The shop was open to the students to make purchases during the workshop. I think the location for the workshop was excellent. It provided adequate space to accommodate about twenty students. No one felt crowded or uncomfortable.


The second half of the day, Rhonda taught a mini course on pattern drafting, which included lessons about sleeve design and several illustrations on rectangle and square garment designs. She brought several of her designs as well and shared the construction process of those garments. Rhonda's teachings also included segments on the difference between petersham and grosgrain ribbons and demonstrated how petersham can be used as a facing on a skirt. She also taught the group how to properly sew on hooks and to use a thread bar instead of the metal eye.

The final segment of the workshop was devoted to fitting participants' muslins. We were invited to bring patterns and muslins. We came prepared. Each person was fitted and explanations of the adjustments were discussed and shared among the group. The last half hour was spent purchasing designer trimmings and notions bought by Susan.

This was an excellent workshop. By the end of the day, I wished for more. The room was buzzing with excitement. Everyone seemed enthusiastic about the possibility of using some of the techniques learned at the workshop. I'm putting in a bid to have more workshops like this, and I feel so very fortunate to be a part of the Haute Couture Club of Chicago. This is where I first met the fabulous Rhonda Buss.  Susan Khalje was a presenter at a club meeting about two years ago. It was my first time hearing her speak. Both ladies are experts in the field of couture sewing and are excellent teachers. I can't wait for the next workshop.


Be inspired! Books are good, but a fine teacher is superb!


Happy Sewing,
Cennetta

Palmer/Pletsch - Teacher's Fit Workshop

Following our shopping tour, There were about six of us who signed up for the Teacher Training Workshop. In this seminar, we learned to fit one another. This was a perfect opportunity to firm up all those fit techniques learned in the Fit workshop. We had time to fit a regular bodice pattern and a princess seam pattern. To prepare for this workshop, it was recommended that we purchase and read "The Business of Teaching Sewing". The goal of this great little book is to help you accomplish three things: be a great teacher, start and run a teaching business, and make money doing what you love. I read a large portion of it on the flight to Portland. It was good to know that I already practice and follow some of the suggestions noted in the book. The tools I learned will help refine some of my business skills and has introduced me to some new ones to improve my business and teaching skills.

During the class, we were given an opportunity to ask questions related to the materials. Then, over lunch, Pati shared more information on how to prepare for classes and presentations. Great information.

 I don't have long before I'm eligible for retirement. For the the past three years, I thought about what I'd like to do with the rest of my life. And sewing is what I've decided on. I love it, and that makes it easy. At times, it has been an additional source of income. I still take in a small amount of custom sewing. As a kid, I also wanted to be an elementary school teacher. It didn't happen. But in almost every job I've had, teaching (training) was part of it. For the past two years, I've taught sewing in my home on a regular basis. It has been a pleasure; I have fun sharing what I know about sewing. What better thing to do than something I enjoy doing? So I will continue to teach sewing and work on making things better as I go.

I have one more installment on my Palmer/Pletsch Sewing Vacation. Then it back to sewing. I already have some information ready to share. I promised my daughter I make her a few garments for work. She recently acquired a position at MATEC, an AIDS Prevention unit on campus. We are very happy she has steady employment. It tough out there.

Anyway, next post will be on other activities during the workshop week. I hope you've enjoyed reading about the events. And maybe you'll consider attending some type of workshop or seminar. It was great fun and it won't be the last time I attend a Palmer/Pletsch workshop.

Happy Sewing!
C