The Second Time Is A Charm - M6512

 

Yes, the second time is a charm if all the fit adjustments have been made.  Today I'm sharing one of my latest makes.  

When I received this lovely floral poly crepe from Minerva Fabrics, I decided to use McCall's M6512 again.  I have a few coordinates that really didn't have a good match.  So this blouse has filled another gap in my wardrobe.  

You may remember the first blouse.  It's part of my green wardrobe capsule and one of the UFO's that I finished last fall.  Once it was finished, I liked it even more than when I initially decided to make it.  And I like this second blouse just as much. 

It's perfect with my tangerine pants made a few years ago.  Actually, I can wear either blouse with the pants.  But I think the orange one looks the best.  Anyway, I am happy I have another pretty blouse in my wardrobe.

Stay Tuned more to come!

Cennetta

An Audacious, Simple Sweater Dress - McCall M7979

Every once in awhile a lady needs to add an audacious garment to her wardrobe.  For me, a simple, easy pattern paired with a bold textile is a perfect combination for achieving this goal.  It's especially, gratifying when you can achieve it in less than two hours.  So here's my audacious dress!

I purchased the pattern about a year ago.  Almost immediately, I made a test garment out of a jersey snake print that I purchased from FabricMart Fabrics. My test proofed that this style looked pretty good on me given there was quite a bit of fabric in the upper part of the dress.  No need for any of my usual fit adjustments.  That put a smile on my face.  It's takes so much time to make the adjustments. 

 

What makes this dress standout is the audacious "Ziggin' and Zaggin'" sweater knit from Gorgeous Fabrics.  This was another fabric that I purchased for my birthday in September.  This fabric is super easy to sew.  It's cozy and bold.  Definitely, a statement piece anyway you design it.  

Anyway, today I want to give my review of McCall M7979.

McCall's description:  Misses': Tops and Tunic close-fitting, pullover top A, B or tunic C has  drop shoulder and low armhole and sleeve variations.  A, B: neckband C: Cowl collar.

The first thing I noticed about the description is "close-fitting".  It is only close fitting in the hip and upper thigh area.  They must have meant loose-fitting.  Anyway..,

I decided to make view C into a dress.  So, the only change I made was to lengthen the tunic by a few inches.  My idea for styling this view was to wear it as a dress as well as a tunic with leggings belted at the waist.

The pattern comes in sizes 8 to 24.  I used sizes 14 and 16.  For the most part, the dress looks like the tunic only a few inches longer.

The instruction and the construction were a piece of cake.  Nothing confusing as I just glance them.  The guide sheet included all the typical Palmer/Pletsch fit adjustments.  Again, I didn't need to make any.  There was also a construction technique for making the cowl with a twist.  I may try that on one of the top versions if I decide to make it again.

Initially, I thought it might look better if I added cuffs to the sleeves and a band to finish the hem.  But when I tried it on, I didn't like it.  So I removed them I made small hems.

I bought this pattern for view B. Then, I became interested in view C after I made my test top.  I like the drop sleeves and the cowl neck. No real dislike.

I may make it again.  And, I do recommend it to others.  

There is a lot of style ease in this pattern.  For most, there will be no need for complicated fit adjustments.  For me, it's was another quick and easy sewing project with great results and style.

Happy Sewing!

C

BTW  - I'm still working on Vogue 8627 jacket.  More on that later.  

The Prettiest Blouse That Almost Wasn't Made - McCall M6512

 

This blouse was a tremendous save.  In the sense that this blouse has been in a bag in the UFO's bind for the longest time.  To be precise, I cut this blouse out shortly are I returned from the Palmer/Pletsch workshop in 2012.  

I can't say why it took me so long to finish it.  But I am very happy that it done and it still fits.  It fits in with my current wardrobe capsule plans.  

 

Enough on the back ground information.  Here is my pattern review.

Pattern Description:  Misses' Blouses:  Loose-fitting blouses A, B have neck and front bands, yoke, front sleeves (cut on crosswise grain of fabric), no shoulder seams, back pleats and narrow hem.  A:  Pleated pockets with button flaps and short sleeves rolled-up (wrong side shows) with button tab. B: Bias collar extends into tie ends and sleeves gathered into button cuffs with seam opening.

Pattern Sizing: The pattern comes in size groupings from 4 to 18.  I used size 16 with some modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, my finished blouse does look like the illustrations on the pattern envelope. 

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical with the Palmer/Pletsch instructions for adjustments, which are always a plus.  For the most part, I followed them.  I didn't like the suggested construction for the collar/tie and neck band.  My preference is to attach the neck band to the top first.  I like to check and make sure everything lines up as it should.  I also found it strange/different to interface the collar/tie.  In my mind, it should be soft and fluid. So, I hoped that it would be fine as I added the interfacing to the collar/tie.  As it turned out, it's a little stiff but still floaty.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? There are so many likes about the blouse, and there were a few challenges with the construction.  I start with the many likes.

Likes:

• The cut on sleeve that continues into the back yoke.
• The join of the blouse front at the arm hole.
• The front band and the 3/4 sleeves.
  
• The overall style of the blouse with the tie.
• My selection of fabric.  It's so soft and fluid.

 

• The join of the blouse front at the arm hole.

•  The front band and the 3/4 sleeves. 

•  The overall style of the blouse with the tie.

• My selection of fabric.  It's so soft and fluid.

Dislikes/Challenges:

• The construction of the collar/tie and neck band.
•  I struggled with the fabric.  The neck band and the front band that I cut eight years ago was a little off.  The fabric is slippery which makes it difficult to cut.  So when I re-cut these pieces (Thank God I had more fabric.), I block fused the interfacing to it before cutting out the pieces.
• In order to produce good buttonholes, I cut stripes of wax paper placing a piece on top and underneath the buttonhole area. 

 

 

Fabric Used: The fabric is a silk chiffon that I purchased during the Palmer/Pletsch workshop way back in 2012.  I purchased it at the Fabric Depot.  It is pretty, soft, and fluid. But difficult to handle.  It slips and slides.  Initially, my plan was to do french seams. Somehow, I forgot all about that after making two seams  (the back sleeve to the back blouse).  No way was I going to rip out the next set of seams.  So, tested the look of the zig zag on the sewing machine.  It didn't look good.  So I finished the rest of the seam with the serger.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  Some changes in construction are above. Additionally, I made a FBA.  No other pattern alterations.  My closure has seven buttons instead of six.

 

Next time, I'll add a few inches to the length of the sleeve and I don't think I'll add interfacing to the collar/tie.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, I want to make at least one more.  And yes, I recommend it to others.  My blouse turned out pretty good.  This first one was a very slow sew.  I spent time than I normally spent on a blouse of similar style.  In the end though, it was worth it.  Now, I have one less garment in the UFO bind.  And I'm very happy about that.  

Conclusion:This project was a little challenging, but with patience and perseverance I finished another UFO.  I ended up with one more pretty blouse in my closet.

Happy Sewing!

C

Plaid Crepe Knit Top - McCall M6963

McCall M6963 was the next to last top that I made on New Year's Eve.  The goal that day was to make something quick and easy to end my year of sewing projects.  Last year was the year of knit tops.  I made over twenty.

Again, this pattern was already adjusted for fit.  It is also a Palmer/Pletsch pattern with fit instructions included.  The design is basically a t-shirt pattern with two variations of a cowl neck.  I used this to make another one of Rhonda's sleeve designs.  It's still available on the McCall Patterns website.  There are two size groupings:  8 to 16 and 16 to 24.  I used size 14 with modifications.

The fabric that I used is a beefy crepe knit from the New Rainbow Fabrics on Roosevelt Road. At first glance, I had to have it.  One of the things that I discovered while cutting out the top is that the plaid is not printed straight on the fabric.   From one end to the other, crosswise, the print is slightly off.  So it was difficult getting the plaid to line up throughout the top.  But I think I did okay.  Not perfect though.

My top does look like the photo on the pattern envelope with the exception of the drape of the cowl.  Mine has a little more body than the fabric used for the pictured top.  My fit adjustments produced a few more seams.  But other than that, it looked the same.

The instructions were typical and nothing confusing about them.  The bonus is that the pattern has fit instructions and some additional sewing tips.

I liked the cowl drape neckline variations.  As far as the rest of the pattern, it's a typical t-shirt pattern.  No dislikes.

My alterations:

• FBA
• Swayback and center back seam
• Changed the sleeve length 
• Prominent Shoulder Blade adjustment

I will use it again for sure.  It's a easy wardrobe builder.  It looks great underneath jackets and cardigans as well as by itself with pants or a skirt.  All level sewists can enjoy making it and wearing it.

Worn with Christine Jonson Travel Trio Pants

Both M6964 and M6963 t-shirt knit tops were a great way to close out my sewing projects for 2019.  They were easy and quick.  To start the new year I have two great looking tops to coordinate with other separates in my wardrobe.


Happy Sewing!
C

The Very Last Project Sewn in 2019 - McCall M6364

Tonight I decided to do a quick review of my last project of 2019.  I actually finished this top late afternoon on New Year's Eve just before dinner and cocktails with members of my family.

I used McCall M6364 a few years ago when I drafted one of Rhonda's sleeve designs.  That review is really about drafting the sleeve.  So today I will share details on the fit, fabric, and construction.

This is a Palmer/Ptetsch pattern, which makes the fit process easier.  The adjustment lines are already on the pattern pieces and the "how to" instructions are included in the guide sheet.  My initial adjustments were still good on this one.  So I didn't need to change anything making this a quick end of the year project.

The pattern includes four basic t-shirt style tops with neck and sleeve variations. I used view B with long sleeves. It comes in two size groupings (8 to 16 and 16 to 24).  I believe it's OOP now.  But you can find it on Amazon.   It's easy to sew and takes less than two hours to make.  All seams are sewn on the sewing machine and serger.

I chose this pattern because I knew it was a fast project, and I wanted to keep the design simple.  My version does look like the top worn by the model, except for the sleeve length and I added a few inches to the length of the top.

My other changes were for fit purposes.  My usual:

• FBA - with a dart.  It's almost invisible due to the print.
• Swayback adjustment with center back seam.
• Prominent shoulder blades  
• I also shorten the neckband by 1.5 inches.  The neckbands for the Big-4 are always too long.

My fabric was purchased at the New Rainbow Fabric store on Roosevelt Road.  It is a crepe knit similar to Mood's Liverpool knit collection.  This knit is slightly beefier and they have it in several prints and colors. This is one of the newest textiles in my "forever growing" fabric collection. Lol  I bought it the Friday before New Year's Eve.  Occasionally, I take my sewing students on field trips.  And this was our end of the year trip.

I chose the camouflage print.  The colors were vibrant and the colorway was perfect for my skin tone.  I also had a few coordinate in my wardrobe to pair with my new top.  My McCall M7392 twill skirt and Vogue V8859 TNT pull-on pants that I made a few months ago.

So, that's about it for this one.  Tomorrow, I'll post the "next to last" 2019 project.  And I work through the other reviews as time permits.  Anyway, enjoy the rest of our weekend.

Happy Sewing!
C

Kimono Styled Jacket - Palmer Pletsch McCall 7790

McCall 7790 - Designed by Palmer/Pletsch Melissa Watson

This kimono styled jacket/lounge robe was my first project finished at SewCamp.  I totally negated the fabric suggestions on the envelope.  The knit that I used is beefier than what they suggested and it was about 20% stretch in it.

I originally envisioned this as a dress, but that idea quickly went out the window when I realized how high the side slits were.  During the entire time of adjusting the pattern, I never once thought about the length of the side seams.

This pattern is available in two size groupings (XS, S, M) and (L,XL, XXL).  I used size Large with modifications, some of which I think I could skipped.

It does look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope.  Wearing it feels more over-sized than it looks if that makes sense.

The instructions were not confusing or difficult.  There is a better way to attach the hem band to the jacket though.  But I was able to follow the construction instruction and get good results.  Maybe later I'll do a tutorial on an alternative method that I've tried before.

My fabric was purchased at FabricMart Fabric last year during SewCamp.  It is a scuba knit.  What drew me to it was the floral and the bright red.  It speaks happiness.

My pattern alterations:

• Full bust adjustment - I could have skipped that.  I don't have pictures.  Palmer/Pletsch included instructions on how to do it.
• Prominent Shoulder Blades - I think I could have skipped that too.

Design Changes:

• I excluded the lining.  The fabric was heavy enough, and I didn't care about adding one.

Overall, I really like this kimono styled jacket/lounge robe:  the curve of the front band in the neck area; the side slits; the sleeve band; and the style of the hem band. 

I dislike the construction for the hem band and the effect of the FBA.  The FBA created a gigantic dart!  When I make it again, I use Sandra Betzina's dartless FBA pictured below.

I do recommend it to others.  This is a great gift idea that most ladies will enjoy.

Stay Tuned; there is more to come!

C

Winter Clothes - Cozy Sweaters with McCall 7574

It is insanely cold in the mid-west.  Between today and Friday evening we are expected to get 8 to 14 inches of snow!  In the midst of snow storms and arctic winter temperatures, I need the right gear to brave the season.  I really started late with my preparation for it all.  Christmas is really too late to start thinking about cozy separates.  I almost needed to start in the summer considering the cold November.  But nevertheless, the bite of the January winds encouraged me to make my previously posted sweater dress and these sweater knit pull-over tops.

I used McCall 7574 making my usual adjustments these sweaters tops are the answer to the winter blast we are experience right now.

This is a Melissa Watson, Palmer/Pletsch pattern. The views are described as:  close-fitting pullover tops, tunic and dress have raglan sleeves, sleeve and length variations. D: Uneven hem, wrong side of fabric will show.  The available sizes are 6 to 22.  I used 14 with modifications.

The tops are semi-fitted to me.  Even the dress on the model isn't close-fitting.  I guess that my FBA may attribute to some of the looseness.   The cream sweater is view B lengthen with long sleeves, and the multi-color orange is view c with long sleeves.

The instructions are typical, and I didn't notice any confusing construction steps.  Palmer/Pletsch instructions are included for making adjustments, which may be helpful for anyone needing to make them.

My likes:

• The shape of the sleeves
• Center back seam

No dislikes.

I made my usual adjustments:

• A small FBA. The cream sweater I didn't make a bust dart.  I eased in the excess.  The multi-colored orange knit really hides any sign of a bust dart.  So I just sewed it as I normally would.

• Small swayback adjustment.  Because the top was on the boxy side to me. I didn't make the full swayback adjustment.
• Adjusted the roundness of the sleeve near the shoulder.  Too much fabric.
• Lengthen the cream sweater, view B and lengthen the sleeves of both views.

Both sweater knits came from JoAnn's Fabrics and Crafts.  Currently, they have an entire section of sweater knits. I believe they are acrylic/polyester blend.
  
I can't say that I will sew either again anytime soon.  But I do recommend this pattern to others.  It's easy and a great staple (wardrobe builder).  During this cold blast, I will definitely get a lot of wear out of them.

These two tops complete the four garments that I made in January 2018.

Happy Sewing!
C