Custom Made Sneakers!

Finally today I'm able to take some time to blog about the shoemaking workshop that I took in March.  There is always so much going on.  And I'm forced to choose between blogging and sewing.  You know which one wins.  ;-)  Instagram has me spoiled.  I can snap a picture, write a brief description, and post in a matter of minutes.  Blogging takes a little more effort.  

Anyway, back to my shoemaking experience.  At first, I was very skeptical about taking it online. This workshop was offered through the Haute Couture Club of Chicago.  In the past, the Chicago School of Shoemaking has given presentations on making all types of leather goods.  At these presentations, we learned about the school, courses and all types of wonderful things to make. I was intrigued by the possibility of me, little ole me, being able to make my own shoes one day.

And, that day came on March 27, 2021.

Again, my course was online.  My sneaker kit could be mailed to me or I could pick it up.  I picked up my kit a few days before the class.  The school workroom is fabulous.  When I entered the front door, I knew I would be back.  Back to take another class in person.  There were all types of sewing machines, workstations, tools, projects and leather all about the room.  I was in a "crafting" candy store.

My course was the beginner's sneakers class, taught by Yohance Lacour.  Mr. Lacour presented to the club members March 2020, right before the pandemic.  He makes beautifully custom made sneakers and handbags.  He is an excellent instructor.  He is very thorough and patient.  No student is left behind.  He makes sure of that.  Additionally, he explains each step to make sure the students understand the methodology of the shoemaking process.

Before the course, we received an email with the zoom meeting link along with some preliminary instructions that needed to be completed before the workshop.  They were cutting out the pattern, shoes, and marking and punching out holes for sewing and eyelets.

All of the sewing is done by hand.  Waxed thread and needle are included in the kit as well as shoe soles, shoe strings, your choice of leather, and pattern.  I purchased a large hole puncher with multiple sizes.

The length of the class is 3.5 hours.  I was able to complete one shoe during that time.  After the class I finished the second shoe.  The eyelets that I had at home did not completely curl to the wrong side of the leather.  So I went to JoAnn's Fabrics to purchase larger eyelets which were perfect.

I thoroughly enjoyed the shoemaking process and hope to make a more detailed pair when I feel comfortable going to the school for instructions.  The school does offer more virtual sneaker courses if you are interested and are unable to travel to the school.  Check out their website.  There maybe a course that you'd like to take.

I hope you enjoyed reading about my experience.  It was so fun.

Happy Sewing!

C

Rhonda and Susan's Workshop - Chicago November, 2014

Susan Khalje teamed up with Rhonda Buss for a mini workshop in Chicago.  How cool is that?  I had the pleasure of being one of the fortunate souls (sewists) who attended the sold out workshop last November. The group gathered at Soutache on the North side of Chicago for a full day of learning from master designers/couturiers.

Susan and Rhonda taught several couture, design, and fitting techniques. The day begin with Susan teaching the participants how to sew a couture skirt using fine guipure lace. The construction process is slow and the lace is meticulously shaped as one continuous piece. Her lessons also included tips and techniques on the construction of a beautifully sewn brocade dress that included underlining, inter-support system, and hand picked zipper. Susan gave us step by step instructions on the hand picked zipper process. In that lesson, I discovered I had missed a very important part of the process. Where the two sides meet, center of the zipper, there should be a slight hump when the zipper is closed. When the garment is worn and forms to the shape of the body, there will be no zipper exposure. This simple step in the process makes a world of difference in the finishing of a hand picked zipper.

By lunch time the students were all smiles and very pleased with what they had learned thus far. During break everyone was sharing sewing experiences and asking questions. Each person bought their own lunch, though a few kind ladies bought salad and desserts to share with everyone. Mily, the owner of Soutache, was on hand. The shop was open to the students to make purchases during the workshop. I think the location for the workshop was excellent. It provided adequate space to accommodate about twenty students. No one felt crowded or uncomfortable.


The second half of the day, Rhonda taught a mini course on pattern drafting, which included lessons about sleeve design and several illustrations on rectangle and square garment designs. She brought several of her designs as well and shared the construction process of those garments. Rhonda's teachings also included segments on the difference between petersham and grosgrain ribbons and demonstrated how petersham can be used as a facing on a skirt. She also taught the group how to properly sew on hooks and to use a thread bar instead of the metal eye.

The final segment of the workshop was devoted to fitting participants' muslins. We were invited to bring patterns and muslins. We came prepared. Each person was fitted and explanations of the adjustments were discussed and shared among the group. The last half hour was spent purchasing designer trimmings and notions bought by Susan.

This was an excellent workshop. By the end of the day, I wished for more. The room was buzzing with excitement. Everyone seemed enthusiastic about the possibility of using some of the techniques learned at the workshop. I'm putting in a bid to have more workshops like this, and I feel so very fortunate to be a part of the Haute Couture Club of Chicago. This is where I first met the fabulous Rhonda Buss.  Susan Khalje was a presenter at a club meeting about two years ago. It was my first time hearing her speak. Both ladies are experts in the field of couture sewing and are excellent teachers. I can't wait for the next workshop.


Be inspired! Books are good, but a fine teacher is superb!


Happy Sewing,
Cennetta

Sandra Betzina's Power Sewing Retreat - Part II

Finally, I can tell you more about the Sandra Betzina’s Sewing Retreat.  I had serious jetlag.  My brain was over-saturated, and I had a mid-term for my management course.  A five page paper with 50 questions on six chapters that I needed to read after returning from my sewing retreat.  I think the combination of all the learning, the late night sewing and school had me zonked out.

Today is the first day I’ve felt rested.  

Now that I’ve got that out of the way, here is more on the retreat activities.

There were two rooms for our retreat, providing enough space for everyone to have an independent workplace.   We all met at 7:00pm Sunday in the Marine’s Memorial Club Heritage room.  You could feel the excitement.
The rooms were set up like a sewing studio/classroom:  several tables (sewing stations and cutting areas) and pressing areas.  The ladies, who lived nearby, brought their own sewing machines.  For those of us from out of town, a machine was provided along with two sergers.  Everyone also received a folder with instructional materials.  

I was happy to meet a very delighted group of women who shared the same passion as me.  This was a great place to be.  Some had recently started sewing again and others were like me, sewing for many years with no significant breaks.  All in all, we were excited to learn new skills and techniques.

Today, I wanted to share some of the sewing activities we did.  Unfortunately, I didn’t get many pictures because I was busy sewing myself.  

Sandra and Ron brought in two full racks of garments.  Ron brought several shirts, jackets and pants.  He used some to demonstrate a technique or process.  Sandra brought dresses, pants, jackets/coats, a little bit of everything.  Many of her garments were the actual garments used for the photo on the Vogue pattern envelope. 

This is one of Ron's jackets, beautiful inside and out.

I promise you, the pattern photos do not do her garment justice.  You really need to see them in person.  I enjoyed trying on Sandra’s garments and looking at how they were made.  It was a treat and an excellent teaching tool.

Ron's illustration of a corded buttonhole.  He showed me how for my french jacket.

On Monday, everyone was measured and was able to try on muslins made from Sandra’s Vogue patterns.  For each pattern, she had muslins in every size.  If you wanted to fit a jacket, you could try one on based on your measurements.  Sandra and Ron helped you determine what adjustments you’d need to make.  The fitting was not just for Betzina patterns, but for any pattern you wanted to make.  For example I brought my Vogue 8804 French Jacket to tissue pattern fit at the Palmer/Pletsch workshop.  Ron helped me tweak it a bit to get a better fit.  We started with making a muslin and worked from there.  

The fitting process and the lessons continued throughout the rest of the week.  But we still had time to sew.  Some of us finished one garment, while others were able to fit several muslins to use for a guide for the “real thing”.  I started two jackets, which I need to get back to soon.  For our convenience, basic notions and patterns were available for purchase.  For specific items needed, Britex was within walking distance from the hotel.

Here are some of the ladies in action.

Mary Lou (background lef),Colette, Monika, and Roseana

Debra (also a Haute Couture Club member.)

Patty working of a skirt.

Mary.  She gave me a beautiful purple and black ruffle knit.  I made Vogue 1292, which I'll review later.

Gay checking out some of Sandra's clothes.

Mary Lou; she makes french jackets and was able to give me some pointers.

Haldis at the work table.

Linda making the Vogue 1291, butterfly top.

Roseana; she was able to fit a few muslins during the retreat.

Parting Shot - The workroom after everyone has clear out.

More to come..,
Reviews:  Books and Fabric Stores
Patterns I plan to make
Other social activities
Projects I worked on at the retreat
Sandra’s House
Happy Sewing!
C
PS- I need to sew thing.  Wink, wink.

Sandra Betzina's Power Sewing Retreat

I've only been home a few hours, but I wanted to share a brief summary about Sandra Betzina's Power Sewing Retreat.  

In one word; Excellent!

It was an outstanding learning experience!  One solid week of learning from one of the USA’s renowned sewing/designing experts.

The Retreat was held in San Francisco at the Marine’s Memorial Club.  Seventeen ladies were taught by some of the best in the business, Sandra Betzina and Ron Collins.

The days were filled with several lessons and tips to help us horn our skills.  In the evening we were able to continue sewing up to 10pm.  A positive “side effect”of this sewing marathon was the women attending the retreat became friends.  Some have attended several of Sandra’s Retreats over the years.  They return because no  retreat is exactly the same.  Sandra caters to the needs of the students.  Sure some basic information is the same, like fitting and seaming.  Additionally, there is a ton of things that are geared forward the needs of the student attending each particular retreat.  For instance, I brought my French jacket project to check the fit, cut and begin sewing.  Sandra and Ron, guided my through the initial stages of making the jacket.  I tissue fitted Vogue 8804 at the Palmer/Pletsch workshop, but needed to muslin fit it to make sure it was just right before cutting into my fabric.  After we made the needed adjustments, I cut and sewed it with Ron and Sandra's help.  Now, I at the point of sewing and setting the sleeves.  

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Sandra’s unique approach to teaching and sewing inspired us to try new and creative sewing techniques. 

Sandra has developed a WebTV show, “Power Sewing”, that provides step by step sewing construction techniques on demand.  Right now she has a special on; the annual cost is $60.00 for a limited time.  This subscription gives you access to over 110 shows, current and archive.  This is a great offer.  Give them a call at 415-876-2434.

 

Over the next week or so, I will post some highlights from the Power Sewing Retreat.  But today I just wanted to give you an idea of what to expect when you go to a Sandra Betzina’s Power Sewing Retreat.  Secondly, you don’t want to miss this great opportunity to subscribe to Power Sewing for $60.00 for one year.  So if you watch one show per week, the average cost to you is less than $2.00.  This is an opportunity to improve your sewing skills for less than a Starbucks’s coffee.

Until next time, Happy Sewing!

C

Palmer/Pletsch - Other Activities and Highlights

A few of the ladies signed up for a color analysis, with Ethel Harms (Image Consultant).  Ethel using a remarkable technique to determine which colors are best for your hair, skin, and eye colors.  As part of the consultation, she creates a color palette using your very best colors.

Seriously, once you've had a color analysis, you will ask yourself, "Is this the best color for me?"  I used to think I could wear almost any color.  That's true.  Everyone can.  But is it the best color for your skin, hair, and eye color?  Above is Ethel and Lisa.  Ethel is telling the class about Lisa's color palette.  Ethel gave me a color consultation that revealed some surprises about the best colors for me.  Sorry I don't have my color palette yet.  It's on the way.  More on that later.

Ladies on the Veranda

After the four day fit workshop we were invited to Pati's house for dinner.  She gave us a tour and told stories about how she came to design patterns for McCall's. 

The history of the Haute Couture Fashion Dolls is detailed in Theatre de la Mode

We enjoyed lunch at two of Portland's famous restaurants:  On the shopping tour, we lunched at Whole Grain Store (restaurant)

During Teacher Training Day, we lunched at the McMenamins Edgefield restaurant.

Beautiful murals were painted on the walls and doors throughout McMenamins Edgefield.

Parting Shots: Marta Alto showed and told about one of her fabulous creations, a silk hearts quilt. 

These are the final highlights that I wanted to share.  Now, I'm back to sewing.

Thanks,

C