Notes on a Pattern - Vogue V2097

 

Sewing Friends,

Here is another "Notes on a Pattern", Vogue V2097.  I really like this pattern, and want to make it this spring.  The silhouette is perfect for me. ;-)

Of course, I want it fit as well.  So, of course, adjustments and muslin are in order.  

So, with this top/jacket the FBA is a little different.  I basically slashed and spread between each dart and added some length to the bodice.  With this FBA, I also needed to do a little tuck at the neckline to keep it from gapping.  Adjustments had to be made on each of the collars to match the length of the neckline.

For the back, I made the prominent shoulder blade and swayback adjustments as per usual. The resulting muslin showed that I still need more room in the bust area and the pleats need to be moved slightly to the center of my torso so that the center pleat falls at the center for the bust.  Additionally, I'll need about a half inch added to the side seam.    So, with a little tweaking, this pattern will be ready for me to cut out my coordinate.

I transferred all of the markings, again, so that the location of the buttonholes, pockets and grainlines were visual on the muslin.

More later of Vogue  V2097.

Happy Sewing!

C

Notes on a Pattern McCall's M7978 - Blouse

 

Here's another project that is in the works.  I've wanted to make this top for a few years now.  Early April, I made a muslin.  And over two years ago, I did the tissue paper fit adjustments.  Sometimes I start and stop, start and stop, working on a project.  But this time, I hope to finish this one with a very nice blouse that fits well.  I wonder how many of us do that. Lol.

Anyway, this Notes on a Pattern details the fit adjustments.  My hope is that the information is useful to other sewists with the same/similar fit adjustments.  

To begin, let me start with the design/style of the blouse.  I think it is a good silhouette for me.  The "V" neckline is great for my inverted triangle shape.  The midriff gives me a little more definition at the waist and the ever so slightly flounce helps with the lack of noticeable hips.  So I think it's good for me.

A, B, C, D tops have gathered front and back, self faced yoke, button and loop closures, forward shoulder seams and gathered sleeve variation and band. B: Flounce. A, B, C: Cuffs. D: Sleeve band, neck band and ties in one.  The pattern comes in sizing groupings (6-14) and (14-22).  I used size 16 with modifications, of choice.

Most of my likes about this pattern is related to how it will help enhance my figure.  I also like the gathers and the fullness of the long sleeve view.  Additionally, it is a pretty easy blouse to sew, and there are no difficult constructions steps that I see.

The photos and drawing are true to the pattern.  So there are no concerns there.

Now, let's get to the fit adjustments.  I'll start with the full bust adjustment the front, a surplus bodice.  For the surplus bodice, I simply slashed and spread the appropriate amount for me.  To do so, I had to determine the needed amount of width and length being careful not to create too much fullness to gather under the bust.  I really didn't need to add any width to the front midriff pattern pieces.  

Next, for the upper back, I added a little length to balance it out with the front bodice.  The lower back midriff pieces, I did a sway back adjustment to remove additional fabric to pool at the lower back area, then adding the length at the bottom to balance out the hemline.

The last thing I adjusted was the neck band and the tie.  For this pattern piece, I needed to add some length to the neckband part only, slightly less than what I added to the front bodice.  Less to reduce the chance of gapping at the fullness of the bust.  The difference in the front bodice can be eased in.  See neck band/tie photo slash above the tie section of the pattern piece.

As for the sleeve length, I wasn't too concerned about making that adjustment for the muslin.  Most of the time it's a matter of adding an inch in the lower half of the sleeve.  Easy.

So, this is it for the Note on a Pattern for McCall M7978.  Now, I need to get to work on the actual blouse.

More later.  Stay tuned.

Happy Sewing,
C

Notes on a Pattern - Simplicity S9894 Part II

Hello Sewing Friends,

This is part 2 of fitting the corset of Simplicity S9894.  

I've made the second muslin.  It looks better.  With this muslin, I did the cup adjustments and lengthen the corset.  I wanted to see how it would look with those changes.  The upper front/neckline stands away from the body.  But a little tweaking can take care of that.

I will still raise the upper edge for more coverage, just a little.   And I'm thinking about adding boning to hold it in place.

Here are the second changes to the tissue pattern:

Stay tune.  part 3 coming soon!

Notes on a Pattern - Simplicity S9894

Hello Sewing Friends,

I've been working on multiple projects again. Lol.  This is not uncommon for a lot of us.  I’m pretty sure many of you are working on more than one thing.  

Anyway, today I’m starting a new series of posts for a new project, Simplicity S9894.  My focus is on the corset.  It can be used to mix and match with several different dress/skirt silhouettes. My desire is to get the very best possible fit.  

Luckily this pattern comes with multiple cup sizes to help make the full bust adjustment process a little less daunting. The pattern description follows:  Cropped corset top with bust cups has underwire for support. Skirt has a slightly lowered waist and is offered in two length variations. Top and skirt both have side zippers. Top has separate pattern pieces pattern for B, C, and D cup sizes for Miss and C, D, and DD cup sizes for Women.

Size: 10-12-14-16-18, 20W-22W-24W-26W-28W

I started my project with using size 18/Cup D.  Hoping that the bigger size would help me have an easier time fitting the bust.  But that wasn't the answer.  For my first muslin, size 18 was too large with a cup size that needed some work.  The finished garment measurement is spot on as far as what is indicated on the pattern.  So, I scaled back to a size 16 for the best fit around my body.

After that change, I was able to address the fit of the cup size.  I used my bra to help me determine the cup circumference.  

In the photo below see the blue marking that shows about where the wire in my bra cup corresponds with the shape of the corset.       

Note:  The muslin is not pretty especially on my dress form.

The shape of the cup was the next thing to address.  There is too much fullness/length at the apex.  I needed to round out the apex a bit. The photo below illustrates the adjustment made to address the change in the cup shape.

 

 

This first muslin is too short for my taste.  So, I will add about 1.25” to the hem.  And to the upper edge, I will add between 1.50" to 1" for a little more coverage.  

My planned pattern adjustment for the bust cup are below.  Of course, if you are planning to make this, your changes may be different.  I wanted to share my changes in hopes that it would help someone else work through the fitting process of this corset pattern.

The pink lines on the front and side front indicate the new curve line. Length extended.

The pink lines indicate the new edge of the bust cup. Width added to the circumference.

For the next muslin, I will address the cup size/shape and extend the length.

Happy Sewing!

C

Classic Black Jumpsuit - Butterick B6658

Good afternoon Sewing Friends,

I'm happy to be posting a review of my classic black jumpsuit project.  Last month I made this jumpsuit to wear to the stage play,  "Living All Alone," the Phyllis Hyman story.  It's been awhile since I sewed anything for a specific occasion.

 

I used Butterick B6658 to make it.  This pattern comes in multiple size groupings  6 to 14 and 14 to 22.  So the pattern has a very large range of sizes that sewists can work with.    

The description is, per the website, is as follows:   Wrap dresses and surplice front jumpsuit with sash are fitted through bodice with built-on shawl collar, hook and bar waist closure, and sleeve and length variations. A: Purchased belt. B: Sash, shaped hem. Wrong side of fabric will show. C: Sash, purchased bias tape for armhole, slash pockets. No provisions provided for above waist or hip adjustments. Note: Separate pattern pieces are included for cup sizes A/B, C, D. 

I used size 16 with some modifications, mostly tweaks as I sewed the jumpsuit together.  Overall, my jumpsuit looks similar to the jumpsuit  drawing on the envelope.  I did lengthen the sleeves and the pant leg.  Those are the most visible changes that I made.  But everything else is pretty much the same as the drawing.  One note is that it fits slightly big across the back and along the sides.  I think I could have used size 14.  I had to take it in some through the sides and I made deeper darts.  These adjustments were all part of the "tweaking" that I did while sewing the jumpsuit together.

The instructions were typical, nothing confusing in them. 

My fabric came from JoAnn's Fabrics.  It is a medium double knit that has a dry hand and a crepe like texture on the right side and a neoprene texture on the  wrong side.  I loved the look and the movement of the fabric.  I wished JoAnn's carried more colors.  I only saw it in black.  This is a great fabric for pull-on pants and skirts as well as jackets.

This pattern has been in my collection for several years.  It is a classic design that is timeless.  That is one of the reasons I decided to buy it.  Another reason is that it has multiple cup sizes included.  With the multiple cup size patterns I'm always hoping to save a little prep time.  Luckily, I was spared the process of doing my typical FBA adjustments. My other likes are the princess seams and that the pattern has pants or skirt options.

I really don't have any dislikes.  Again a word of caution with the overall fit is that the sizing appears to be larger than normal.

My changes:

• Lengthen the pants
• Lengthen the sleeves - I really wanted 3/4 length sleeves, but I didn't have enough fabric.
• Sway back adjustments
• Tweaking throughout the side seams
• Tweaking throughout the bust area
• Shorten the crotch length by 1/2"
• Adjustment of darts as I sewed

I was able to have an enjoyable sewing experience using the pattern and fabric.  Nothing fancy, just a classic comfort look for the theater.  Not sure if or when I would use this pattern again.  It is good to have classic patterns to choose from.  The bodice, pants, or skirt can be mixed or matched with other patterns to create a different look.  

I do recommend the pattern to others.  It is easy to sew.  

Happy Sewing!

C

 

Summertime Fun Dress in Ankara Fabric - Simplicity S8594

Today is the last day of June and it is 98 degrees HOT!  Great time to wear my latest creation, using a red and black, Ankara fabric that I purchased at the Textile Warehouse. I began sewing this dress last Thursday and finished it on Sunday.  

My photographer, DD, was available to take a few pictures of me wearing it this afternoon.   The sun was high and bright.  The heat was on. Lol

This will be a short and sweet review as I don't have pictures of the pattern alterations.  Sorry.  If you check out many of my previous princess fit adjustment makes, you'll get a good idea of the changes I had to make for this pattern. 

Pattern Description:  Misses and Petites with bodice and skirt variations.  The bodice options include a crewneck with slit or a halter, and the skirt can be made straight or flared with pockets.  I made View C with modifications, size 14 graded up. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, it did.  Of course, I lengthen the skirt and made a few other changes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Sorry, I really didn't read the instructions.  I've made this style dress many, many times before.  At a glance, I guess they were typical.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the halter style of the dress.  And I thought it would be a great style for the fabric that I selected.

Fabric Used: I purchased this Ankara fabric from the Textile Warehouse in Chicago on 21st Street.  They have a variety of colors and prints for the reasonable price of about $6.00 per yard.  It is 100 percent cotton.  It also washes and presses very well.  That's something I always appreciate with natural fibers.  I love the print and the vibrant red and black colors.  

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I made a ton of changes.

• FBA and graded the pattern up.  When I purchased this pattern, the largest size grouping available at the store was size 14. So, I made it work for me.
• I shortened the straps by 2 inches, much too long for me.
• NOTE:  I forgot to make a sway back adjustment.  Not too bad though.  If I use this bodice again, I'll be sure to do it to remove the excess fabric at the lower back.
• Lengthen the skirt.  Also, I barely had enough fabric for my desired length.  On a few of the lower corners of the skirt, I had to "piece" the corners together.  See picture below to see an example.  You can hardly tell. wink, wink.
• I installed an invisible zipper instead of a regular one, only because I didn't have one in my stash, and I refuse to buy another one. 

Observation:  The bodice is a little low at the underarm.  I'd would bring it up about 1.5 inches for a better fit and look.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes and yes.  I would consider making it again.  This view, view C, which I like the most.  Also, I recommend it to others.  It's a great little summer dress that is not difficult to make.

Conclusion: I am pleased with how this dress turned out.  The fit is almost perfect. and I really like the combination of the fabric and style.  Great little summer dress that beginners and experienced sewists could make with no problem.

Happy Sewing!

C

Birthday Dress Reveal! - Vogue V1672

 

I'm so happy to finally reveal my birthday dress!

Vogue V1672 is a great pattern design.  I love so many things about it.  This is another one I'm going to make again.  ;-)

My Notes on a Pattern post gave you some information about my initial fit adjustments.  And for the most part they were spot on.  For the actual dress, I still needed to make a few little tweaks.  Nothing major though.  And that is why it is so important to make a muslin.  

Today, it feels like summer all over again.  It's 88 degrees and very sunny.  So we took advantage of this beautiful day and decided to do the photo shoot outside.  I have to hand it to my photographer, my DD.  She is always so willing to help me with the picture taking of me actually wearing the things that I make for myself. I am so grateful to have her help me.

Anyway, here is the rest of my review of this lovely dress.

Pattern Description:  This dress is described as: Lined dress with fitted bodice, side seam pockets, back zipper, and sleeve variations.  It is available in two size groupings (4-14 and 14-22).

NOTE:  The pattern envelope indicates that there are side seam pockets and the back view drawings show pockets.  But there is no pocket pattern included.  This is no biggie, you can used a pocket pattern from another design.  Vogue should update this error.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, my dress does look like the pictures on the envelope.  I didn't to the top stitching as shown in view A, and my sleeves are shorter.  I was aiming for more of a 3/4 length sleeve.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical.  Nothing in them was confusing or difficult to follow.  I omitted several steps based on how I wanted my dress finished.  I will discuss that in the design changes and alterations.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  There is so much I like about this pattern.  It has great bones.  My likes:

• I love the full skirt.  It is very lady like.  I didn't have to make adjustments to the side on the dress.  Often with this type of skirt, I sometimes need to shorten along the sides of the dress.
• mock wrap dress.  This is one of my favorite necklines.  And the design/fit of it was perfect, even after my FBA.  No small tuck needed.
• Lined dress.  One of my usual preference.  

My dislike:

• I didn't like not being able to easily try on the bodice during the construction process.  I had to base the center back seam (zipper) to see how the fit was coming along.  Nothing else.

Fabric Used:  As stated before, my fabric is from Mood Fabrics.  I purchased it awhile ago and it is no longer available.  It is a cotton/rayon blend I do believe.  Easy to work with, easy to press and soft to the touch.  I tested a piece in the wash.  Just to see if it washes well.  It did.  But I will be sending this dress to the dry cleaners.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  My usual fit adjustments.  See Notes on a Pattern.  Additionally, for the FBA I shortened the Dior dart by half the length.  It looks better.  My design and construction changes:

• I only lined the bodice.
• I added hem tape to the hem of the sleeves and skirt.
• To eliminate the fear of the center front gap or opening, I tacked at the intersection of the front.
• Shorten the sleeve length
• Positioned the back shoulder dart on a angle.  It also looks better.  See back bodice adjustments.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, and yes.  I will probably make a summer version. Also, I may use the bodice and/or the skirt with other designs.  I love this pattern, and recommend it to others.

Conclusion: Love, love making this dress and how it turned out.  The design is classic and I think it looks good on me. ;-)  

Happy Sewing!

C