Jean Pool 2014 - A Back Story of a Practicing Sewists

Good morning everyone,

Thank you for commenting on the previous Jean Pool post. Lately, I haven't been able to sew much, but wanted to keep posting about upcoming projects and overdue reviews.

Today I wanted to post a short back story about a refashion project that I did 40 years ago. The thought occurred to me that this may be a good post for a number of reasons:

• To encourage a new sewists.  Often new sewists have challenges with very basic sewing processes and sometimes give up on sewing far too soon.
• To document my thoughts one of the first projects I made when I was  about 11 years old. I keep this jacket/over shirt because I was proud of myself.  Proud that I completed it.  And I'm glad I continue to sew.
• Patch work denim is on trend now.  It's everywhere and there are patterns you can use to make your very own trendy denim shirt.

Now my little back story -

I had been sewing about two years when I tried to make a patch work denim over shirt using old jeans that would have ordinarily been tossed in the can.  But the little creative me decided to use them to make a shirt.  I can't remember the pattern I used back then, back I can almost guarantee it was a McCall pattern.  Those were my favorite patterns at that time.

Truth be told, I had no idea how to make the shirt or how it would turn out.  But I was excited about the project and, in my mind, this would be a special project once it was completed.  Although my execution of simple sewing processes and techniques were less the stellar, I was proud to say I made:

• Button holes
• Attached a collar
• Patched pockets
• Made tabs for the sleeves and shoulder
• Installed in-set sleeves

Did I wear it?  Oh hell yeah, I did.  I was proud and felt I accomplished a lot with my refashion project.  Was it polished?  No way.  It looked homemade.  Because it was a first of many things, I thought I should keep it to remind me of the project.  Every five or so years, I pull it out to look at it again.  Which each survey I compare were I was then and where I am now with perfecting my sewing skills.  Needless to say, I've come a long way from the 11 year old girl who wanted to make all of her clothes.  I happy that I stayed the course and didn't let anyone detour me from that goal.

Did people (peers) comment about the flaws?  All the time.  That did not stop me.  I was determined and knew that someday I would be much better at sewing.  So I pressed on.  Now today, I am able to make a variety of shirts and jackets.  I'm still learning new skills and techniques.  Sewing is still a huge source of enjoyment for me.

Jean Jacket of 2012 M5860

Now, for part two:

If you are interested in creating your own patch work shirt, try McCall's 6649.  This pattern gives many style options for a button down shirt.

Jean Pool 2014 - Jeans vs. Leggings

Is everyone getting rid of their jeans?  This year has been the year of the leggings.  It looks like leggings are replacing the long time wardrobe staple, jeans.  I can't imagine life without them.  A recent study revealed that there is a decline in the purchase of jeans.  How could that be?

I like leggings too, but they will never replace my jeans.  So today's inspirational post is all about denim.  Enjoy!

Another Chapter In The Jean Pool - M5515

First I want to start out by saying this is a loonnnng review. I made several changes and want to include some quick, pro, and sew tips. I'm hoping this review will help other sewists with making jeans.

I started a series, June 2009, on making jeans to document and set some standards for myself for making jeans for myself and DD. Last spring while admiring the many, many patterns I own, I rediscovered a Palmer & Pletsch jean pattern c1981. I used this pattern, back in the day, to make jeans for my mom. As I started to read all of the tidbits in the instructions, I realized this pattern contained a treasure trove of tips that many would like to have. So on that note, let me get started with the review.

Pattern Description: MISSES’ LINED JACKET AND PANTS: Fitted, lined, above hipline jacket with flounce has separating zipper and pockets with band and zipper, princess seams, standing collar, two-piece sleeves with cuffs; jacket A has contrast bands, cuffs and collar; pants C with side slant pockets, below waistline contour waistband and mock fly zipper opening.

Pattern Sizing: 4- 16. I used size 14 with several modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? The design lines looked pretty much like the pattern cover photo. There were a few details that I omitted and/or changed.

Were the instructions easy to follow? There was nothing difficult or confusing about the instructions or construction of the outfit.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I particularly liked the design of the jacket: the peplum and the pockets with zippers. Nothing to dislike.

Fabric Used: I used an apple green demin that my Dad gave me several years ago. For the lining, I used a floral cottonthat's been in my stash for over 15 years. Originally bought to make DD (little DD) a blouse. Both were pre-washed and dried on hot to pre-shrink the fabric.

The suggested fabric for the jacket is faux leather or suede. Of course I used demin for jacket and pants.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:

Jacket -



I did a FBA to the front jacket pattern pieces. The jacket calls for a 16 inch zipper, because of the FBA I had to install a 18 inch zipper.

I didn't use the front band or the pocket band. If I had used faux leather or suede I would have. But for the demin I skipped it.

There is a lot of top stitching in the construction of the jacket. I omitted the top-stitching at the shoulder seam. Not on purpose; I simply forgot about it. When I realized I had omitted it, the jacket was finished.

I omitted the button on the cuff.

The peplum wasn't as long as I thought it should be.



Back of jacket showing overlap of peplum. There should have been a little more over lap at the center back. Additionally, I ease the bottom of jacket to fit the peplum.



Inside sleeve cuff didn't have enough fabric to make the inside. So I used the lining fabric for it.

Pro Tip - When pressing, roll seam slightly toward facing side so it won't show.

Pants -

The pants pattern included is really not a jean pattern, but I made changing to incorporate the stylings in a pair of jeans by:



Adding pockets to the back pants and following some construction method in the M7555 instruction sheets.

Back pocket sewn to back pant.

Sew Tip - Know your presser Foot - It makes top-stitching easy! Measure the presser foot. Most are 1/4" 6mm, from needle to outside edge. Most top-stitching is done 1/4" 6mm from the edge, so the edge of the foot is your guide. If your presser foot measures 3/8" 1cm stitch 3/8" from the edge.

Sew Tip - Stitch row closest to edge first, then using presser foot as a guide, stitch the second row 1/4" 6mm away.

Quick Tip - Instead of breaking stitching who you edge stitch and then top stitch, make the row of edge-stitching then pivot and stitch across; pivot again and top-stitch to complete the second round of stitching.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I'm not sure if I'll sew this particular pattern again. I have so many pattern to try. But I will follow some of the techniques: adding zippers to pockets (first time) and instructions on sewing synthetic suede and leather. I would recommend trying this pattern to others if you have it. It's out of print.



Conclusion: I like the grean jean outfit. Am glad I was able to finish it before the end of summer. The pattern is not different, but requires a little patience with the top-stitching, pockets, lining, and facings.

My flickr set on the makings of this outfit.

Sewing A Little Here and There - M5515 and M5801

I had the grand plan of finishing the matching jacket to my apple green jeans this weekend. But it didn't happen. Friday night I sat down to sew, completing all parts up to finishing the front zipper. And lo and behold. The zipper was too short. Well I purchased the length indicated on the pattern. I did not think about the FBA adding length to the front of the jacket, which it did. So, I decided to put the lining together a pick up another zipper later.



Saturday morning (not feeling to well), I stopped by to the local WalMart (trying to save time) to see if they had a forest green separating zipper. No such luck. I didn't feel like going to Joann's or Hancock's so I headed back home. No sewing though just resting. I'm having a really tough time with regulating my high pressure.

So, Sunday evening, I'm feeling brand new. Go figure..., So, I put the lining together. Then I starting on my dress made from M5801.

Here are some comments and pictures on both projects:

On the pattern, it is suggested that this jacket is made out of faux leather or suede. I chose demin to match the jacket. The fabric was a gift and a little too short to cut all of the required pieces from it. So the inner cuff are made from the lining fabric.



The front pocket details include a facing that is finished and placed over the zipper. I didn't follow this construction. Once I finished the zipper, I attached the second piece of the pocket inside.



One of the thing that I liked about this jacket is the peplum, which has a slight overlap in the back.




May be today I'll stop to pick up a zipper.

M5801 -

This dres includes separate pattern pieces for the bust cups. I was a treat not to alter the pattern to fit. I cut the dress at size 14 with 1 inch side seam allowances. I didn't do a sway back adjustment to the pattern, featuring I could make that adjustment as I sew, increasing the seam allowances at the area that falls at the small of my back. This worked fine. But this dress is a little too big. So I need to increase the seam allowances (side) for a better fit.



Again, my fabric was a little short. When it came time to cut the sleeves I needed about four more inches. Didn't have it. So I cut the cuff separately then attached it using my own method that I created as I sewed.



First I sewed the underarm seam together; then sewed the cuff. Pressed seams open.

Next, I attached the to the bottom of the sleeve. Sleeve wrong side, cuff right side facing. Pressed and turned cuff to the right side of the sleeve to checked it. Then I turned it out again to press the seam allowance at the top of the cuff. Now I'll top stitch the cuff to the sleeve. It's not the same as the pattern, but I still get a cuffed sleeve.

Jean Pool - Back Pockets Part III

Last night I finished the jeans (M5515). This post I wanted to mainly talk about the process of finishing the pockets and a few changes with the construction of the pants. The full review will come after I finish the jacket.

To stitch the design onto the pocket, I double the thread hoping that it would make the design stand out. As it turns out the tailor chalk stands out more than the actual stitching. Hoping it will wash out.




The next step after stitching, I determined the placement of the pockets. McCalls 5515 did not have a back pocket pattern. I used another pattern pocket. To help with the placement, I used an old pair of favorite jeans measuring the distance from the top of the pant and the center back. The end result placed my pockets with the back dart centered above them.





To hold the pocket in place, I added stitch witchery to each side of the pocket. Two stripes about 4 inches long were place beneath the seam allowance then pressed in place.





Back pocket sewn to the pant.



After completing the pockets, I went ahead with the construction of the rest of the pants/jeans making a few changes from the suggested process.

The instructions suggest that you shorten the zipper and make a new zipper stop. I placed the zipper stop at the large circle. Sewed it in place attaching the left fly. After the waistband was sewn, I cut the zipper even with the top of the pant. I also topstitched the waistband instead of slipstitching as suggested.



Finally, here's a shot of the inside of the zipper/fly area. The fly is tacked to the extension as suggested in the instructions.



This week, I'll work on completing the jacket.

Stay Tuned!
C

Jean Pool - Back Pockets Part II

Using the suggestions from the 1981 Palmer/Pletsch pattern I went on a hunt for potential back pocket designs. Of course, I did the easiest thing: I googled "back pocket designs". Here's what I came up with as potential designs for the jeans I'm making from M5515. This pattern does not have back pockets so I used the back pocket pattern from the 1981 Palmer/Pletsch pattern.

Potential Designs:



Copied lines to pocket using tracing wheel and paper:



Went over lines with tailor pencil:



Next Sewing the design onto the pockets.

Stay tuned!
C

Found the Curve - M5667 Part III

DD got some lotion on the pants while putting them on. Oh well, it should wash out.



Next version I'll narrow the legs a little more for a snug/comfort fit.


A few weeks ago, I made the first pair of jeans using M5667. The pattern photo shows a curver pant leg than the pattern produced. So I re-shaped the pant leg of the second pair to create "the curve" shown in the photo.

Inspired by a 1981c Palmer/Pletsch jean pattern, I decided to include some detailing on the back pockets.

I didn't have enought fabric for the back yoke, so I used some left over faux leather from a jacket made for DD in 2007. DD was quite pleased with the results and so was I.

Hear are a few photos of DD wearing the jeans with the jacket (2007).








This is the first of several projects that I will post this week. Left to review:

Three pairs of pants for me
One jumpsuit
and
One maxi dress

Happy Sewing

Finding The Curve M5667 - Part II

I'm almost finished with the second pair of jeans for from M5667. Both DD and I are pleased with the look so far. If I'm up to it, tonight I will sew the loops, waistband, hem and press them.

Wondering why I'm posting now when I'm so close to finishing? This process ties in with a previous post titled: "Jean Pool". It's all about discovering new and better ways to sew a great pair of jeans, which most of you have already done. The process is more for me, but I hope it inspires/helps some of you as well.

Also, today's post is about designing unique and interesting details on the back pocket. My vintage Palmer/Pletsch McCall's pattern (1981). Can I call it vintage (over 25 years old)? Anyway, they are two columns of instructions that teaching the sewist how to design unique pockets. Two topics in one post, blended. First progress on DD jeans.

Plain pocket canvas. Ready for embellishment and/or details. I had already finished the edges and press the fold lines.

Adding embellishment to the back pocket is new to me. So I wanted to keep it simple. I used some faux leather leftover from a jacket made for DD about two years ago. The faux leather was cut into two stripes. I didn't do any measuring, just guessing the length and width. Here are the two back pockets for the pants. After I sewed them on I notice that the stripes were not placed exactly the same on each pocket. I didn't want to ripped one out. So I added another stripe to one of the pockets.

Here's the pocket with the top edge finished.

To test the look of the pocket on the pant, I placed the pocket onto the pant with the yoke before sewing.

Here both pockets sewn onto the pant.


Here is a view of the two back pant legs joined at center back.


The first pair I just quickly sewed them together, not spending a lot of time trying to make them "perfect", or my version of perfect. Here is a view of the zipper.

Here is a view of the pants (rightside out). I think the reshaping looks more like the photo on the pattern envelope.

Tips from M7555 (1981).


Quick Tips - Design

Look in a child's cooking book for illustrations to inspire pocket designs. Use the illustrations to trace onto the pocket with tracing paper and wheel.

Add appliques and ribbons. Fuse them; then edge stitch or zigzag around them.

Add middy braids to create designs

Create your own name tag with permanent markers and faux suede; then attach it to the pocket.

Add piping - copy pocket pattern. Split into section, add seam allowance where necessary, and add piping as you join the pieces together.

Quick Tips - Sewing

When the pocket is ready to be attached to the pant:

Pound to flatten and trim away bulk at top corners.
Use fusible web to hold the pocket in place while stitching to pant.

Those are the tips.

Happy Sewing!
C