Utility Jumpsuit - McCall's M7908

I'm so happy to be able to sport my new jumpsuit. It turned out pretty good.  I'm going to make another one. Lol

Utility jumpsuits are somewhat on trend now.  I just like the way it looks.  

Nordstrom $149

Way back in the 70's when I first started making my own clothes, I made a similar jumpsuit out of a knit fabric my late grandmother gave me.  I wish I had a photo of it.   

Anyway, here is my review.

Pattern Description:  Jumpsuits have fitted bodice with princess seams, exposed front zipper, and semi-fitted straight leg pants with neckline, sleeve, pocket and length variations. A, B, C, D neck and B armhole finished with purchased bias tape.  Note: Separate pattern pieces are included for cup size A/B, C, D.

Pattern Sizing:  6 - 22.  I used size 16, cup D, view C with modification.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, my jumpsuits looks like the photo envelope

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical; nothing confusing in them.  But I had a little challenge with getting the base of the exposed zipper presentable. I tested an alternative construction method that I saw on social media; it worked only slightly better than what's in the instruction guide sheet. 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  

Likes -

• The style of the jumpsuit. 
• The stretch denim fabric from Textile Warehouse.
• That the pattern include different pattern pieces for A/B, C and D cup sizes.  It reduced the amount of pattern adjustments for me.
• The princess seams.  Easier to fit.

Dislikes -

• The neckline is too "open" for me.  It stands away from my neck.  Next time I will bring it a little closer.
• The exposed zipper instructions.  It could just be me. Lol

Fabric Used:  I used a stretch woven denim that I purchased from the Discount Textile Warehouse.  It is so forgiving and comfortable to wear.  I prewashed and dried it before cutting into it.  The fabric was softer and easier to work with.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I tweaked the  D cup pattern, swayback adjustment and lengthen the pants leg,  I don't like cropped pants.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, and yes.  I like it well enough to make it again.  And, I do recommend it to other sewists. 

Conclusion:   I'm happy I finally made my jumpsuit.  My sewing buddy, Marcy, was the motivation for getting this made this spring.

Happy Sewing!

C

 

Trending: Junk Ties - Simplicity S4762

 

Good evening Sewing Friends,

Have any of you heard of "junk ties?"  Well, Bethanie (one of my friends from church) asked me to make her a denim tie using some jeans that she wanted to "upcycle".  She indicated that she had her own findings to decorate the tie.  

I have seen a few junk ties on Instagram, but I wanted to get a little more information on how to style them as well as what the price points for a finished tie.  What I found online was a wide variety of styles and price points.  Click here is see.   I think junk ties are another canvas to express your own personal style and creativity.  You can style it simple, chic or audaciously over the top.  The price $25.00 to $160.00.  

My challenge, if you will, was to craft a denim necktie for my client to personalize.  Good thing, I have at least ten different patterns that including a necktie.  I chose Simplicity S4762, view E.

This pattern may be OOP, but you can still find it online.  My copy to about twenty years old, and this was my first time view E.  The pattern consists of boys' and men's vests and ties.  The sizes include S - XL.  I used the men's tie, view E.

Before cutting into Bethanie's jeans, I made a prototype just to see how the tie would turn out.  It was exactly as expected and look like the tie pictured on the envelope.  It was a bit narrower then the desired necktie.  The next one, I made it about 1.5" wider, which was closer to the width needed.  (The first two tie were made using some denim from my fabric collection.)  Lastly, I cut into her jeans to make the final tie.  To finish it, I added one of the pockets to jump start the design process.  In total three neckties made to achieve the desire look. 

For some reason, I thought sewing a necktie would be more difficult than making a bowtie.  It was actually easier.  And the instructions were simple and easy to follow.  Definitely, a beginner could easily make a necktie.

I really like how all of the ties turned out, narrow or wide.  I considered making a few more "junk ties" to gift and/or sell.  So, I will definitely make more ties and recommend this pattern to all level sewists.

In conclusion, this was a fun little project.  Each tie took less than an hour to make from start to finish.  Great beginner project with great results.

Here is Bethanie's final design for her personalized "junk tie."

Happy Sewing!

C

Simplicity Shacket S9388 In Denim - Better Than The Last

Here I go again!  This is my second shacket, and I'm loving it even more than the first. 

This medium weight denim that I bought from JoAnn's is perfect.  For this version, view A, I decided to make a few changes.

The first was to change the design of the hemline.  I wanted to add a curve hem with slits on the sides.  So, I used a bowl the create the curve. then I decided the length of the slit. Easy, easy.  

With the first shacket I thought the front placket was a little too short.  But I wasn't absolutely sure because I added a few inches to the length.  For this version I cut the pieces exactly as instructed.  True enough, the placket is nearly two inches too short.  So after changing the hemline, I had to redo it and shorten the front enough to fit the length of the placket.  Easy solution.

Next change, I made the sleeve pleats deeper and I turned the upper part of the vent in.  The sleeves are really BIG, and the cuff too.  This change makes it fit a little better.

The final change was to use snaps instead of buttons.  I put them on today after finishing it a week ago.

This one is so versatile. I can wear it with almost any casual outfit.  today I'm showing two style options:  leggings, tall boots, and a colorful scarf and slim pants and a turtleneck top.  Not shown today, but definitely a great outfit for me too: a simple pullover dress cinched at the waist with a big scarf draped about the neck.  The style options are endless.

So, here's to the trending shacket.  I'm going to get plenty of wear out of this baby. ;-)

More to come.  Rhonda and I will continue our little sew along with a pink wool shacket.  So stay tuned.  Be sure to check us out on Instagram too.  There may be additional postings as we go along. 

Happy Sewing!

C

Another Sew Camp Project - McCall 7890 - View C

I wanted to plan my projects for this SewCamp experience.  I attempted to prepare by completing all steps pre-sewing before arriving at the Carriage Corner B&B.  I selected fabric and patterns, cut the patterns out and made fit adjustments, cut and sewed some muslins before bagging everything into individual ZipLoc bags.  Sounds good, right?

But even with all the prep work, there is still a chance of something not working out.  In this case, it was more my selection of fabric.  The second problem was way too much added for the FBA.  The first fabric was a nice medium weight denim.  It was too stiff and really not the best fabric for this dress.  With regards to the FBA, I actually made a muslin before cutting into my fashion fabric.  From that I just saw a few little tweaks.  The muslin fabric was lighter and softer.  The pleats worked just fine in the muslin fabric.

Now let's fast forward to SewCamp.  I'm at the sewing machine, ready to start making this cute dress.  I put the front and back together pieces together and finished the seams hong kong seam binging style.  So at this point, I'm ready to try it on.   The front of the dress was a hot mess with fabric bulging out in the bust area. So I tried and tried to make it better.  No good.  Next, I changed the pleats to gathers.  Still, no joy.  After hours of trying to make it work, I decided to move on to something else.

The next day, I only spent a little time on the denim dress before I decided to try making it in another fabric.  I purchased a medium light weight twill at JoMar shortly after arriving in Philadelphia.  I started out with the idea of making gathers instead of pleats and reducing the FBA even more. 

In the end, I was able to complete View C of this pattern.  So after that long story, let me give you some of the typical pattern review information.  So here goes.

McCall m7890

Pattern Description: Fitted tunic and dresses have asymmetrical button-front opening with band, double yoke, slightly dropped shoulder and shaped hem with length and sleeve variations. A, B: Elasticized sleeve. D:Purchased bias tape for armhole.

Pattern Sizing:  Available in sizing 6 to 22; I used size 16 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? There was nothing confusing in the instructions or the construction of the garment.  My problems were with the fit and with the pleats.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? 

Likes:

• Asymmetrical button-front opening
• Sleeve of view C; something different.  I could use it in other garments.
• Side slits and back yoke
• Pleats.  I really wanted them to work for me.  Maybe in a lighter fabric.

Dislikes

• Pleats.  Grr..,
• The upper part of the front band.  It gapes open a bit even on the model on the envelope.  I shorten it about 1/2", but that wasn't enough.

Fabric Used: First fabric used was a denim from Mood.  The second fabric, pictured here is a medium/light weight twill that I purchased at JoMar's in Philly.  It has just a little stretch in it.  My original plan was to make a circle skirt out of it.  But oh well.  I have some other textiles that I can use for that project.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: My pattern alterations were a messy FBA, a swayback adjustment with a center back seam and to shorten the upper front band by 1", a half on each side.  With my back adjustments there is still a few wrinkles across my back.  My only design change was from pleats to gathers on the upper front.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I have a gingham that I thinking about trying.  Maybe the third version will be perfect.  And yes, I recommend it to others.  Each of us has different fit issues.  So that's something that always has to be worked out.  Some may have to work a little harder  than others to make it work.  But, it's not a difficult dress to make.

Conclusion: All was not lost.  I think I ended up with a decent dress, not perfect, but wearable.  BTW- My first attempt at making the dress didn't completely go to waste.  I gave it to Gaylen.  She has a little one (grand-daughter) that she can make something for.

That's it for now.  I do have a few more pattern reviews.  And I want to, at least, post a mini review of the first six months of 2019.

Happy Sewing!
C

Eyes Closed Shut in Simplicity 4112

I cannot for the life of me figure out why my DD always has her eyes closed when I trying to take pictures.  This time I decided to go ahead with the posting, instead of taking more pictures again.

Another early spring 2018 project finally making it to the blog.  The (S4112) pattern is out of print, but still fashionable.  When I approached her with the idea to make a blouse, I was aiming for the another view pictured on the envelope.  She favored the second view.  So that what I made.

She is wearing it with a denim skirt that I made for my sister many years ago.  (No review on that today.)  

Simplicity gives sparse descriptive information.  All is stated is misses shirt and sash.  I will add Nehru or mandarin collar, button up with two sleeve variations.  Sizes 4 to 20.  I used size 12 with modifications.  

This was a fairly easy blouse to sew.  The instructions were typical and I did not see anything confusing in them.  There are a few pattern flaws and construction steps that I'd like to point out.  But first, I must say that this is a wearable muslin.  Because I didn't make one; I should have all things considered.

• The front and back pattern length are different.  Matching up the notches, the back is slightly longer than the front.

  
• There is more ease in the neckline.  I made it work by easing, soft gathering to make it fit.

  
• There is some pulling at the neckline.  That could be due to my daughter's square shoulders.  Something that I have adjusted in the past, but some how forgot for this project.
• The armhole has more curve in it than expected, considering setting/curve of the sleeve, even with gathers, if that makes sense.

I like the sleeve variations and the longer hemline with the sash.

No real dislike beyond the small things mentioned above.

The fabric that I used came from Vogue Fabrics in Evanston.  I think I bought it a few years ago.  It's a lightweight cotton blend.  Easy to sew and press.  Perfect for a button up shirt.

I doubled the front facing to help support the buttonholes and buttons.  To make the buttonholes, I sewed each once then again to get a nice even stitching.

The minor flaws are just that; easy to correct.  So this is a pattern that I would consider using again for her and maybe myself.  I have two copies. 

Anyway, this one is a short review on a pretty simple blouse to sew.

Happy Sewing!

C

Ralph Lauren Blue Nights Stretch Denim In Body Hugging Ginger Jeans

What better way to show off your body hugging Ginger jeans than a day at the Art History Museum of Chicago to see the Mainbocher Exhibit.   The Haute Couture Club of Chicago field trip took place of December 4th where several club members showed off their Ginger jeans.

I was happily sporting my new pair made with Ralph Lauren blue nights stretch denim from Mood Fabrics.  I ordered five yards, enough for two pair and than some.  This is a great denim to work with.  It has just the right amount of stretch for a great fitting pair of jeans.  The cotton adds texture and durability for long lasting wear and comfort.

My sister tagged along with me to the museum and was able to see and hear about the making of everyone's jeans.  Of course, she wanted a pair.  Later, I had her to try mines on.  They fit her better than they fit me!

So I let her have them along with my Ralph Lauren striped cotton blouse.  So yesterday, she took these photos for this post.  Afterward, she didn't hesitate to let me know that she'd love another pair.  But first, I need to make a pair for myself. ;-)

Anyway.., here is more on the making of the jeans.

Pattern Description:  Closet Case Ginger Jeans View A low rise with narrow stovepipe legs.  View B high-waisted with skinny legs and a tummy-slimming pocket stay.  I made view B.

Pattern Sizing: 0 - 20; I made size 14 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?   Yes, they did.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were very good and easy to follow.  Rhonda Buss did a sew along for Sew News that provides great illustrations on the sewing process.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I especially like the option of having two different jean styles in one pattern.  Although view B is rise-waisted, they don't look like "mommy jeans".  The slim leg makes them figure flattering while providing some control around the medium section if you need it.

I didn't like the placement of the back pocket.  It is too low on the hip.  I moved the pockets up about 1.5 inches.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  The back hook is too short.  I added about an inch to it.  Of course, I added a few inches to the length of the leg.  I mentioned earlier that they were a better fit on my sister.  This pair I didn't make a swayback adjustment.  So the center back of the pants stands away from my waist, and the leg wasn't a snug on me.  Next, pair I will make that adjustment.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Most certainly would.  I need to make at least two more pairs:  one for me and one for my daughter.  And yes, I recommend them to others.

Conclusion:  This is a great jean pattern with two style options.  I would recommend that you test the fit by making a muslin before you cut into your Ralph Lauren Stretch Denim.  ;-)

Parting Shots:  These are from the Mainbocher Exhibit.  If your in the Chicago land area, check it out.  It's very interesting.  Mainbocher was a first in a few fashion design elements, and he designed uniforms for the Girl Shouts of America and the U.S. Armed Forces.

Fur and Denim

My first thoughts of a fur coat is often associated with a vision of a elegant dress or pant suit underneath.  But Marie Claire shows a different perspective in it's August 2015 issue.  The colors are bold and beautiful.

 Fur and denim is a great weekend outfit.

This second look is so 70's.  The shoulder wide collar, the over the knee boots, and the fringed purse.  I couldn't do the short, shorts though.

 These jackets also remind my of the 70's.  Cute, but a little to youthful for me.

Of course all of these looks are a little pricey.  But I can get "a look" for less with some faux fur. Lol

In my Mood Fabric stash, I have a yardage of faux fur that would be a great for a faux fur project this fall.

I'm thinking of using Burda Magazine, October 2008, coat 101 style.

Happy Sewing!
C