Simplicity S9894 Is Finally Done!

 

It is so gratifying when you've finally completed something that you've been working on for a while.  This corset/bustier style top took two muslins and two fashion fabric tops to get it right.  And I love the way it turned out. 

So today I want to give my final pattern review with all the changes that went into making this top.  BTW- the skirt was a piece of cake.

There are two posts already published.  Links to each follows:

Notes on a Pattern Simplicity S9894  - This post basically gives some insight on the pattern and my first attempt at the FBA.

Notes on a Pattern Simplicity S9894-Part II - Continues with working on the fit of the corset top.  I  provided illustrations on how I made additional adjustments to suit my taste.

After the second post, I continued tweaking the fit of the corset top.  I took some time and several putting on and taking off until I got the fit just right.  I suspect anyone wanting to try this top will have to go through a similar process.  With that said, me get to the other details.

Pattern Description:   Cropped corset top with bust cups has underwire for support.  Skirt has a slightly lowered waist and offered in two length variations.  Top and skirt both have size zippers.  Top has separate pattern pieces pattern for B, C, and D cups sizes for Miss and C, D, and DD cup sizes for Women.

Pattern Sizing:  Sizes 10-18 and 20W- 28W.  I used size 18 with lots of modifications for the corset and size 16 for the skirt.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, it did, except for the width of the straps.  I made mine twice the width.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical, and there was nothing confusing in them.  Easy.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I wanted to try this corset type top.  It reminds me of a long-line bra.  And bra making is something I want to try.  This top seemed to be a good way to practice bra making.  The skirt pattern design is a common pattern design that I probably have in at least a dozen pattern that I own.  

I didn't really have any dislikes.  

Fabric Used:  It was a gift to me some time ago.  And I thought this pattern would be great for it.  A linen fabric with embroidered polka-dots on it.  I love working with natural fabrics.  So easy to handle.  But this one presented a little challenge with the polka-dots.  The embroidery was raised and sometimes got caught in the machine.  But overall, the fabric was okay to work with.  

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: 

 

• FBA - See previous posts for details on making the FBA adjustment.  There was more tweaks to make here and there to get the right fit.
• I raised the neckline and added a few inches to the hem of the corset.
• I doubled the width of the straps.
• No underwire inserted. The corset fit just fine without it.
• For the skirt, I lengthen the short version by eight inches. 
• Because I had limited fabric left, I made a straight waistband about 2.5 inches wide doubled.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Of course.  I did a lot of adjusting.  I will certainly sew the corset top again.  And I do recommend it to others.  Make a muslin or two. Lol  

Conclusion: I am so pleased with the results of this outfit.  It turned out very well.  I hope to make it again soon.

Happy Sewing!

C

Easy, Breezy Summer Dress - Simplicity S8735 and Simplicity S8637

There is nothing like a floaty, breezy summer dress.  This one has been in the making for two years.  Last week I finally finished it, and I am glad I did. 

 

Here again, I decided to use two different patterns to come up with the style that I wanted.  I used Simplicity S8735 for the bodice and Simplicity S8637 for the skirt and the flounce sleeve.  

I decided to use S8735 because it included different patterns for the cup sizes.  So all I needed to do was select my cup size and tweak it a little bit.  For the skirt, it was very easy.  No serious fit adjustments; just a little tweaking.  I used size 16 for both.  Both patterns are over six years old.  But they may be still in print. 

 

Because the bodice of S8735 is above the waist, my dress also sits above the waist.  That's something that you need to pay attention to if you're splicing patterns together.  

What I like about my new dress is:

• The wrap - I love a wrap dress.  Perfect for my body shape.
• Princess seam - easy to make fit adjustments.  In this case, having the different cup sizes made it even easier.
• The flounce on the skirt - Who doesn't love a full skirt dress. 
• The flounce of the sleeve - I wanted to try something a little different.  This is a cute style design.

No dislikes.

The fabric is from Mood Fabrics.  They may not have it in stock.  It's been in my collection for at least 4 years.  But I’m sure they have similar cottons that would look great in a summer dress.

 

I'll wear this fit and flare beauty as soon as an opportunity presents itself.

 

More sewing projects to come.  So stay tuned!

 

Happy Sewing,

C

Fit and Flare Brown Bows Dress - Butterick 6280

Spring is almost here! What better way to start the season than with dress.  By now I'm sure you've noticed that my favorite thing to make is a dress. Last month I decided to "line them up" for the Spring/Summer sewing party that I scheduled with myself.  This is a solitary event that I planned for myself in hopes of getting back to spending more time in my sewing room.

This is the second dress posted for the March.  The fabric is another lovely fabric purchased from moodfabrics.com, brown bows printed on a cotton.  It is a lighter weight cotton sateen, great for everything from summer dresses to curtains.  This sateen has a smooth hand and a crisp drape.  No trouble sewing or pressing it.

I decided to pair it with Butterick 6280.  The fit and flare silhouette is a great style to show off the crisp drape of the fabric.  Because it is transparent when held against the light, I lined it with a crisp polyester lining from my stash; also I like the durability, comfort, and luxury that linings add to a garment.

Butterick 6280 is easy to make and is described as misses/misses petite dress semi-fitted through the bust, has princess seams, side front overlapped at the neckline, side pockets, and back zipper.  B.  Front and back overlays.  I made view B, no contrast, with modifications using sizes 14 and 16.

There was nothing confusing about the instructions.  I like the neckline, princess seams and the fit and flare silhouette.  I plan to make a few more dresses with the same basic style lines.  I don't have any dislikes.


I made some of my usual adjustments:

• FBA
• Swayback
• Lengthen sleeve by 1"
• Lengthen dress by 2"

Finishings:

• Lined the dress
• Added Hug Snug to the hem of the sleeves and dress.  Love this stuff. 
• Inserted an invisible zipper instead of a regular one.

This dress turned out well.  After making all the pattern adjustments, I'd like to make at least one more of the views.

I know it's not spring yet, but I already wore the dress.  For almost the entire month of February and the beginning of March, we had "Spring" like weather; 50-60 degrees and rain.  Unfortunately, winter returned with freezing temps in the 20's with about 9 inches of snow on Tuesday.

Anyway, I think I'm off to a good start with building a new spring/summer dress collection.

Happy Sewing!
C