Ribbed Summer Knit - Simplicity S9757

Good day everyone,

Today's post is an outfit for my DD.  She really liked how the previous version turned out and wanted another for this summer.  So here is the second version.  The only differences are that I made view C instead of D and the fabric is a ribbed knit.

All of the review information is here. 

So that's basically it for this post.  As for the sewing experience, it was the same expect for the type of fabric. I guess I should give some descriptive information about that.  This fabric was another purchase from Hobby Lobby.  It has 35-40% stretch crosswise. It has a soft hand and is fluid, not stiff like some ribbed knits.  

Happy Sewing!

C

Simplicity S9894 Is Finally Done!

 

It is so gratifying when you've finally completed something that you've been working on for a while.  This corset/bustier style top took two muslins and two fashion fabric tops to get it right.  And I love the way it turned out. 

So today I want to give my final pattern review with all the changes that went into making this top.  BTW- the skirt was a piece of cake.

There are two posts already published.  Links to each follows:

Notes on a Pattern Simplicity S9894  - This post basically gives some insight on the pattern and my first attempt at the FBA.

Notes on a Pattern Simplicity S9894-Part II - Continues with working on the fit of the corset top.  I  provided illustrations on how I made additional adjustments to suit my taste.

After the second post, I continued tweaking the fit of the corset top.  I took some time and several putting on and taking off until I got the fit just right.  I suspect anyone wanting to try this top will have to go through a similar process.  With that said, me get to the other details.

Pattern Description:   Cropped corset top with bust cups has underwire for support.  Skirt has a slightly lowered waist and offered in two length variations.  Top and skirt both have size zippers.  Top has separate pattern pieces pattern for B, C, and D cups sizes for Miss and C, D, and DD cup sizes for Women.

Pattern Sizing:  Sizes 10-18 and 20W- 28W.  I used size 18 with lots of modifications for the corset and size 16 for the skirt.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, it did, except for the width of the straps.  I made mine twice the width.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical, and there was nothing confusing in them.  Easy.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I wanted to try this corset type top.  It reminds me of a long-line bra.  And bra making is something I want to try.  This top seemed to be a good way to practice bra making.  The skirt pattern design is a common pattern design that I probably have in at least a dozen pattern that I own.  

I didn't really have any dislikes.  

Fabric Used:  It was a gift to me some time ago.  And I thought this pattern would be great for it.  A linen fabric with embroidered polka-dots on it.  I love working with natural fabrics.  So easy to handle.  But this one presented a little challenge with the polka-dots.  The embroidery was raised and sometimes got caught in the machine.  But overall, the fabric was okay to work with.  

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: 

 

• FBA - See previous posts for details on making the FBA adjustment.  There was more tweaks to make here and there to get the right fit.
• I raised the neckline and added a few inches to the hem of the corset.
• I doubled the width of the straps.
• No underwire inserted. The corset fit just fine without it.
• For the skirt, I lengthen the short version by eight inches. 
• Because I had limited fabric left, I made a straight waistband about 2.5 inches wide doubled.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Of course.  I did a lot of adjusting.  I will certainly sew the corset top again.  And I do recommend it to others.  Make a muslin or two. Lol  

Conclusion: I am so pleased with the results of this outfit.  It turned out very well.  I hope to make it again soon.

Happy Sewing!

C

My DD in Simplicity S9757

Pattern Description:  Fitted tops have cap sleeves, high mock neckline and optional ruched sides.  Skirt with elasticized waistband and figure-hugging fit comes in midi length with side slit or mini length with ruched detail. 

Pattern Sizing:  The pattern is available is sizes XS to XXL.  I used size medium with modifications for my daughter.  I made views B and D

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  

Yes it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  

The instruction were a piece of cake.  Super easy.  

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  

I like the high mock neckline cropped top.  I knew my DD would like it.  I/we also like the ruched sides of the skirt.  No dislikes.

Fabric Used:  

A modal jersey knit from JoAnn's Fabrics.  I love the soft touch and the color.  JoAnn's has a variety of colors available in this jersey.  

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  

My adjustments were minimal.  My DD's needs basic adjustments:  a square shoulder and slight swayback adjustments.  Nothing more is needed for this pattern.   

I made one change in the construction.  Instead of using bias tape to finish the armholes, I cut bias strips 1.75" wide and the length of the armhole minus an inch easing in the difference between the "facing" and the actual armhole.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes and yes.  My DD already asked for another outfit, View A and C.

Conclusion: 

We both really like how this outfit turned out.  It was easy and she liked it a lot.

Vogue V1515 Pullover Vest and Skirt

I hesitated awhile before finally deciding to go ahead with posting my pattern review of Sandra Betzina's Vogue V1515 (OOP).  The hesitation is due to my "not being so happy" with how the top/vest looks on me.  I really was hoping that it would be a good look for me.

This is the last garment that I made in January 2022.  I decided I would do end of the month reviews.  And before doing that, I wanted to post this last garment made.  To be clear, the vest is the last garment for January, and the skirt is the last garment for December 2021.

Anyway, as far as the making of it, the construction was fine. There are somethings I could try if I decide to make it again, which I'll mention later in the review.  So, let me get to the specific details of the review.

Pattern Description:  Misses' top and skirts:  Loose fitting, pullover top has elasticized collar, forming ruffle, contrast facings at armhole and lower edges, and topstitching.  Below waist skirts have wide yoke piping cargo pocket, hidden pocket on front yoke facing and shaped hem.  C: Side zipper.

Pattern Sizing: Sandra Betzina uses a different sizing chart from other Vogue pattern designers.  I used size E with very little modifications. Views A and B

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? I think both garments looked like the photos and drawing for the most part. 


Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions were pretty easy to follow.  I did have a little issue with the outside cargo pocket (skirt). I mistakenly place the ends too far apart.  So, there is a pull at the top of the pocket.  But other than that, no problems.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  What drew me to this pattern was the pullover top.  (I'm calling my version a pullover vest because of the heaviness of the fabric.)  Unfortunately, I'm not that happy with how it looks on me.  

So here are my likes:

• The design of both the top and the skirt.  I love the ruffled collar of the pullover as well as the shape of the uneven skirt hem with the cute cargo pocket.
• Easy to sew project.
• Yoked skirt.
• The bust darts were spot on.  I didn't have to lower them.

My dislikes:

• The length of the pullover.  I wasn't thinking when I cut it out.   I should have made it a few inches longer and tapered it a bit at the bottom so it wouldn't look so boxy on me.  So I added a piece of elastic to create some shape to the vest.  In turn, create some shape for me.
• The length of the elastic to form the ruffle on the collar.  It's too long.  I would have like it closer to my neck.  

Fabric Used: 

• Pullover Vest - I used a faux suede with fleece backing from JoAnn's.  I thought this was perfect for the vest.  Only problem, it's a little bulky for me.  Contrast facings - crepe back satin remnant from my fabric collection. 
• Pullon Skirt - I thought this was a cute jersey knit.  For the life of me I can't remember where I purchased it. BTW- this is a UFO.  It was cut and ready to sew for about two years.  

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I only wish I had made a few adjustments on the vest.  For the skirt, I added the elastic to the waist and omitted the piping.  I made a design change on the vest.  For the collar I used the satin for the inside of the collar.  I actually, divided it in half lengthwise adding an inch to the faux seude outside and subtracting an inch from the inside satin. The original design would call for an all-faux suede collar and that would be too hot in my opinion. No other changes.  

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I really like the skirt.  I may make a woven version with the side zipper and adjustment to the width of the yoke to fit better.  The pullover vest, I probably won't try it again.  I think I'm going to gift this one to someone.  

Overall, I like this pattern especially the skirt.  I do recommend it to others.  The rating on the envelope is average.  I think most sewist could make this with no problems.  

PS - I did add the little inside pocket.  I forgot to take a picture of it.

Happy Sewing!

C

Brocade Holiday Skirt - Vogue V1725

I started this project with the idea of making the dress, Vogue 1725, View B.  After struggling with trying to make a FBA, I decided to make a skirt to wear with a top of a different fabric.  See previous post. The bodice of the dress after the adjustment, just wasn't flattering.  

 

The skirt of the dress did not call for a lining.  I added one because the brocade is not completely opaque.  The lining was cut about 2.5" shorter than the skirt even along the curved high section.  I didn't want it to show.  The skinny waistband is about 2.5" wide and completely interfaced.  And I omitted the pockets.

What I liked about the skirt is the fullness of it and the high/low style.  That's actually why I purchased the pattern.  For this version, the brocade makes it extra special and perfect for a holiday or special event outfit.

My fabric is from Minerva Fabrics UK.  It is a lovely brocade that either side of the fabric can be used.   It all depends on whether you want more gold or more black in your outfit. I chose more black. 

I'm glad I was able to get something out of the pattern despite the unflattering altered bodice.  In hindsight, I could have used another bodice already tried and true (TNT).  Anyway, I was able to get a nice  outfit.

So, what are you planning to make for the holiday season?

Happy Sewing!
C

P.S.

Sorry the pictures are a little grainy and dark.  

Client Holiday Skirt - Burda 6390

Hi Everyone,

Christmas is just a few days away. With parties, celebrations, and quite a bit of sewing going on in my world, no time for blogging and very little time for Instagraming.  But I just had to post this picture of Alesa, my dear friend's daughter holiday skirt that I made two weeks ago.

Burda 6390 dress pattern is what I used to make it.  I'm not sure if this is a true pattern hack.  I simply used the skirt portion of the dress, added a lining with tulle and a waistband.  That's it!

I simply put it together like any other seven gored skirt with a zipper back and waistband.  To show off the fullness of the skirt, I added a lining that I sewed on two tiers of gathered tulle.  The tulle is between the lining and the skirt.  The front of the waistband is about 3 inches wide tapering to 1.5 inches wide in the back.

She chose this audacious, eye popping, African or Ankara print fabric that she purchased at a local store on west 95th street in the Chicago Beverly area.  This no fuss cotton fabric sewed up quickly and the finished press was nice and crisp.

Alesa received loads of compliments, and she was over-joyed with her "holiday outfit".  After her event, she reminded me that this would not be the last skirt I'd make for her. ;-)

Pattern Ready!

Happiest of Holiday!
Cennetta

Simplicity S8982 - The Great Wardrobe Builder

This Simplicity pattern can be used to build a little mini wardrobe.  For the SewYourView November Challenge, I came away with four new pieces:  three tops and one skirt.  They can be mixed and matched with other pieces I already have.

For now, this raps up my posts on S8982.  It's an easy pattern that you can get a lot of mileage out of.  Out of the four pieces that I made, my favorite is the hacked key hole top made of ITY polyester/lycra jersey.  You'll see this one again.

Anyway, this is more of a pictorial posts.  All of the pattern review notes are in the two previous posts.  Enjoy! More to come later.

Happy Sewing!
C


 

Notes on a Pattern - Simplicity 8982

Hi everyone,

It's been ages since I posted and even longer since I posted Notes on a Pattern.  Anyway, today I'd like to give some details on my pattern adjustments, talk about my likes and personal preferences using one of Simplicity's popular patterns for the Fall 2019 season.  It is also the "SewYourView" challenge pattern for November.

Simplicity S8982

Easy to Sew Misses' Dress or two-piece top and skirt. Designed and sized for stretch knits only. Dress is below-knee length with long sleeves. Top has straight or cuffed sleeve options. Pull-on skirt is elasticated at waist. Two length options. (description from the website.)

The pattern is available in two size groupings (6-14 and 14-22), which is pretty good for range of sizes available.  Because the pattern is so simple, you can easily grade it up if needed.

The instructions are pretty typical, no problems with understanding or following them.  I must confess, I didn't look at them until after I made my first top and skirt.  But because I'd wanted to do a Notes post, I decided to read them.  They are easy and all level sewists can follow them.

Looking at the drawing and the modeled view of C and D, the skirt appears to be tapered below the hip.   But the skirt pattern is exactly like the drawing, straight from the hip to hem.  So without any changes, your garment will look like the illustration.

I made a few fit adjustments and as well as personal preference changes.  Being with the top, view C:

• FBA using Sandra Betzina's Fast Fit.  Her FBA eliminates the bust dart that the standard FBA creates.
• Reduced the neckband by 1/2".  My first version still does not fit as snug as the modeled version.  For the next version, I reduced it by 1.5".
• Prominent shoulder blade adjustment (with shoulder dart).
• Swayback adjustment and slightly forward shoulder adjustment to correct the shoulder seam alignment. 
• Added a centered back seam for a better fit. 
• Because of the added width created by the FBA and PSB adjustments, I had to eliminate the added width below the bust by grading down a few sizes.  That is not illustrated here. I only showed the initial adjustments. I typically make that adjustment as I sew.

• Lengthen the sleeves by 2"
• Tapered the cuffs for a more attractive look.
• I also lengthen the top by a few inches.  But this was done on the pattern after this top was made. 

Skirt:

• Cut my usual size at the waist and tapered below the hip to the hem.  This change also produced a more flatter look and the skirt looks more like the skirt worn by the model. 

This is a good basic pattern that you can get a lot of mileage out of once you've worked out the adjustments.  For that reason, I like it and will use it over and over again.  If you're teaching sewing, it's a good beginner pattern.  Students will come away with a stylish outfit that is very easy to sew.  For me, it's a nice wardrobe builder.  So far, I've made three versions of top, view C, and one of the skirt, view D.   Next week, I will post me wearing my first versions of views C and D.

In the meantime, hears a picture of the outfit on Rochelle (I named my dress form).

Happy Sewing!
C