Notes on a Pattern - Simplicity S9894

Hello Sewing Friends,

I've been working on multiple projects again. Lol.  This is not uncommon for a lot of us.  I’m pretty sure many of you are working on more than one thing.  

Anyway, today I’m starting a new series of posts for a new project, Simplicity S9894.  My focus is on the corset.  It can be used to mix and match with several different dress/skirt silhouettes. My desire is to get the very best possible fit.  

Luckily this pattern comes with multiple cup sizes to help make the full bust adjustment process a little less daunting. The pattern description follows:  Cropped corset top with bust cups has underwire for support. Skirt has a slightly lowered waist and is offered in two length variations. Top and skirt both have side zippers. Top has separate pattern pieces pattern for B, C, and D cup sizes for Miss and C, D, and DD cup sizes for Women.

Size: 10-12-14-16-18, 20W-22W-24W-26W-28W

I started my project with using size 18/Cup D.  Hoping that the bigger size would help me have an easier time fitting the bust.  But that wasn't the answer.  For my first muslin, size 18 was too large with a cup size that needed some work.  The finished garment measurement is spot on as far as what is indicated on the pattern.  So, I scaled back to a size 16 for the best fit around my body.

After that change, I was able to address the fit of the cup size.  I used my bra to help me determine the cup circumference.  

In the photo below see the blue marking that shows about where the wire in my bra cup corresponds with the shape of the corset.       

Note:  The muslin is not pretty especially on my dress form.

The shape of the cup was the next thing to address.  There is too much fullness/length at the apex.  I needed to round out the apex a bit. The photo below illustrates the adjustment made to address the change in the cup shape.

 

 

This first muslin is too short for my taste.  So, I will add about 1.25” to the hem.  And to the upper edge, I will add between 1.50" to 1" for a little more coverage.  

My planned pattern adjustment for the bust cup are below.  Of course, if you are planning to make this, your changes may be different.  I wanted to share my changes in hopes that it would help someone else work through the fitting process of this corset pattern.

The pink lines on the front and side front indicate the new curve line. Length extended.

The pink lines indicate the new edge of the bust cup. Width added to the circumference.

For the next muslin, I will address the cup size/shape and extend the length.

Happy Sewing!

C