Notes on a Pattern McCall's M7978 - Blouse

 

Here's another project that is in the works.  I've wanted to make this top for a few years now.  Early April, I made a muslin.  And over two years ago, I did the tissue paper fit adjustments.  Sometimes I start and stop, start and stop, working on a project.  But this time, I hope to finish this one with a very nice blouse that fits well.  I wonder how many of us do that. Lol.

Anyway, this Notes on a Pattern details the fit adjustments.  My hope is that the information is useful to other sewists with the same/similar fit adjustments.  

To begin, let me start with the design/style of the blouse.  I think it is a good silhouette for me.  The "V" neckline is great for my inverted triangle shape.  The midriff gives me a little more definition at the waist and the ever so slightly flounce helps with the lack of noticeable hips.  So I think it's good for me.

A, B, C, D tops have gathered front and back, self faced yoke, button and loop closures, forward shoulder seams and gathered sleeve variation and band. B: Flounce. A, B, C: Cuffs. D: Sleeve band, neck band and ties in one.  The pattern comes in sizing groupings (6-14) and (14-22).  I used size 16 with modifications, of choice.

Most of my likes about this pattern is related to how it will help enhance my figure.  I also like the gathers and the fullness of the long sleeve view.  Additionally, it is a pretty easy blouse to sew, and there are no difficult constructions steps that I see.

The photos and drawing are true to the pattern.  So there are no concerns there.

Now, let's get to the fit adjustments.  I'll start with the full bust adjustment the front, a surplus bodice.  For the surplus bodice, I simply slashed and spread the appropriate amount for me.  To do so, I had to determine the needed amount of width and length being careful not to create too much fullness to gather under the bust.  I really didn't need to add any width to the front midriff pattern pieces.  

Next, for the upper back, I added a little length to balance it out with the front bodice.  The lower back midriff pieces, I did a sway back adjustment to remove additional fabric to pool at the lower back area, then adding the length at the bottom to balance out the hemline.

The last thing I adjusted was the neck band and the tie.  For this pattern piece, I needed to add some length to the neckband part only, slightly less than what I added to the front bodice.  Less to reduce the chance of gapping at the fullness of the bust.  The difference in the front bodice can be eased in.  See neck band/tie photo slash above the tie section of the pattern piece.

As for the sleeve length, I wasn't too concerned about making that adjustment for the muslin.  Most of the time it's a matter of adding an inch in the lower half of the sleeve.  Easy.

So, this is it for the Note on a Pattern for McCall M7978.  Now, I need to get to work on the actual blouse.

More later.  Stay tuned.

Happy Sewing,
C

Festive Summer Vacay Dress - Simplicity S9598

Pattern Description:  Slim V-neck pullover knit dresses in two lengths have long or short sleeves with cutout back and twist detail.  One view feature contrast layout.

Pattern Sizing:  The pattern is available in two size groupings (6-14) and (16-24).  I used between size 16 and 18.  This is very close fitting and I want just a little ease in the dress.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, it did.  I really like the way the dress turned out.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical and easy to follow.  There was nothing confusing in them.  Of course, I changed a few things.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the V-neck, the twist/cutout, and the option to color block the dress.  There was only one dislike; the way the back elastic facing is supposed to be finished.  It did not look good.

Fabric Used:  I used an ITY knit that I purchased from Fabric Mart Fabrics a while ago.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  There is always something that needs to be adjusted or changed.  Here is my little list:

• Small FBA made that produced a bust dart.  You can barely see it in this print.
• Made a prominent shoulder blade adjustment.  I didn't want the twist to pull too much.
• Selected a length between the two indicated on the pattern.
• 3/4 Sleeve instead of the long sleeve
• Sewed a channel for the elastic to be threaded through.  It looks better than just having the elastic between the skirt and facing.
• Used a twin needle to hem the sleeves and the skirt.
• The neckband was gapping a bit.  I had to make a deeper center front seam to make it fit better.  See pattern pieces showing the blue marking to indicate the new stitching line.  Note:  You must be precise in your stitching making sure both neckbands are stitched the same.  

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Of course, I will sew it again.  I don't know when though.  There are so many other dress patterns in my to make pile for 2022.  We will see how it goes. 

Conclusion:  I think this is a great little pattern to make a fun, festive summer dress.  It a good one for all level sewists. 

 

P.S.  I'll post pictures of me wearing soon.  No one available for a photo shoot today. Wink, wink.

Happy Sewing!

C

Cute Flounce Knit Top - In Review Burda 6428

I finally got around to making my "first" top from Burda 6428.  This is the same top made by Ms. Faye of Faye's Sewing Adventures.  Her top inspired me to give it a try.  I even selected a similar color to her inspiration top.  Here is my review.

Pattern Description:  Burda describes this as a fitted t-shirt pattern.  I'd like to add with neck variations.  Looking at view 1 on the pictured model, it a little loose to me. 

Pattern Sizing: It is available in sizes 8 to 18.  I used 14/16 with modifications. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, it did look like the photo.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Everyone knows that Burda can be a little vague with the instructions.  But they were fine for me.  I didn't see anything confusing.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the neckline, the flounce, simply the look of the t-shirt.  It didn't look like your typical T.  On the construction - I like the finishing of the neckline and the lower armhole.  It looks clean and RTW.

After my few modifications, the neckline is still a little wider than I am accustom to.  Next time I'll bring it in a little more. 

Fabric Used:  I purchased this knit from Marcy Tilton.  It kinda of slinky and has great recovery.  It's semi-opaque.  I did experience a little stitch skipping even though I used a microtex sewing machine needle, size 10, which works for me with most knits.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: 

• I cut size 14 at the neck and 16 through the bust area and tapering back to size 14.  
• Swayback adjustment - added a center back seam, tuck at lower back,  scooped out excess at lower back and adding the amount of the tuck at the hem.  
• FBA - I used Sandra Betzina Fast Fit FBA.  I saw Ann of Gorgeous Fabrics' Blog use this technique for one of her projects.  Sorry, I can't remember which project.  Her post post reminded me that there was alternative to creating a FBA.  This one does not produce a bust dart.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I'll give this one another try.  I like the cut of the t-shirt.  Next time, I'll reduce the opening of the neckline.  I do recommend it to others.  It's easy and it's cute.