Silky Print and Suiting are Matched - Simplicity S3103 and Vogue V1294

Next, Outfit sharing posts is Simplicity S3103 and Vogue V1294.  Good combination.  Still in some neutral tones for some mixing and matching.

I really like these coordinates together.  All I need is a orange, ivory or black jacket.  Hmmm..., more sewing projects added to the never ending list.  Previous post on this outfit is here.

Happy Sewing!

C

A New Blouse Silhouette with Simplicity S3103

Another new pattern to review.  This is a recent release:  Simplicity S3103.  I paired it with Vogue V1294.  These slacks were made last winter.  I just never posted pictures of them.  They look good with this top.

Pattern Description:  Simplicity vague description - blouse with sleeve variations

Pattern Sizing:  4 - 24; I used size 16 with modifications View B

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Pretty much.  I think the top pictured on the envelope looks longer than mine.  I thought about making it again adding a few inches to the hem. 

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Yes.  They were pretty easy to follow. 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Looking at the pattern, I initially liked the funnel neck and the sleeves of view C.  I was concerned about how my upper body would look in this silhouette.    Additionally, I didn't care too much for how the armhole facing looked once it was finished.  

Fabric Used: This is a silky polyester print that I purchased from Mood Fabrics several years ago.  I was drawn to it because of the print and colors in the fabric.  I only purchased one yard hoping I would be able to make a simple top.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I made my usual adjustments:  FBA, swayback, and prominent shoulder blades.  The FBA produced an additional waist dart plus and bust dart.  I made the bust dart slightly on an angle.  It almost disappears in the fabric.  One other change needed for me is the width of the funnel.  It stands out too far from my neck.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I will make it again.  I want to make view C with a few more inches added to the hem.  And yes, I do recommend it to others.  One word of caution, pay close mention with finishing the armhole with the facing.


Conclusion:  This is a easy top to sew.  If you need a FBA, it may produce an additional waist dart.  You can also consider making the original waist dart deeper if you do not want to add another one.

P.S.  -  I'm hoping my DD will be able to take some pictures soon of me wearing my newly made outfits.

Stay Tuned!

C

Notes on a Pattern McCall's M7978 - Blouse

 

Here's another project that is in the works.  I've wanted to make this top for a few years now.  Early April, I made a muslin.  And over two years ago, I did the tissue paper fit adjustments.  Sometimes I start and stop, start and stop, working on a project.  But this time, I hope to finish this one with a very nice blouse that fits well.  I wonder how many of us do that. Lol.

Anyway, this Notes on a Pattern details the fit adjustments.  My hope is that the information is useful to other sewists with the same/similar fit adjustments.  

To begin, let me start with the design/style of the blouse.  I think it is a good silhouette for me.  The "V" neckline is great for my inverted triangle shape.  The midriff gives me a little more definition at the waist and the ever so slightly flounce helps with the lack of noticeable hips.  So I think it's good for me.

A, B, C, D tops have gathered front and back, self faced yoke, button and loop closures, forward shoulder seams and gathered sleeve variation and band. B: Flounce. A, B, C: Cuffs. D: Sleeve band, neck band and ties in one.  The pattern comes in sizing groupings (6-14) and (14-22).  I used size 16 with modifications, of choice.

Most of my likes about this pattern is related to how it will help enhance my figure.  I also like the gathers and the fullness of the long sleeve view.  Additionally, it is a pretty easy blouse to sew, and there are no difficult constructions steps that I see.

The photos and drawing are true to the pattern.  So there are no concerns there.

Now, let's get to the fit adjustments.  I'll start with the full bust adjustment the front, a surplus bodice.  For the surplus bodice, I simply slashed and spread the appropriate amount for me.  To do so, I had to determine the needed amount of width and length being careful not to create too much fullness to gather under the bust.  I really didn't need to add any width to the front midriff pattern pieces.  

Next, for the upper back, I added a little length to balance it out with the front bodice.  The lower back midriff pieces, I did a sway back adjustment to remove additional fabric to pool at the lower back area, then adding the length at the bottom to balance out the hemline.

The last thing I adjusted was the neck band and the tie.  For this pattern piece, I needed to add some length to the neckband part only, slightly less than what I added to the front bodice.  Less to reduce the chance of gapping at the fullness of the bust.  The difference in the front bodice can be eased in.  See neck band/tie photo slash above the tie section of the pattern piece.

As for the sleeve length, I wasn't too concerned about making that adjustment for the muslin.  Most of the time it's a matter of adding an inch in the lower half of the sleeve.  Easy.

So, this is it for the Note on a Pattern for McCall M7978.  Now, I need to get to work on the actual blouse.

More later.  Stay tuned.

Happy Sewing,
C

Many Sewing Projects All At Once

Good morning Sewing Friends,

I wanted to post a short update on the many projects that I am currently working on.  During the past few months, most of my sewing time has been on pattern fit adjustments and making muslins to check the fit to make sure it's good.  Often I do several fit adjustments at the same time.  Then once everything is good, I move to the next step of making the actual garments.

Today, I'm posting a few of the muslins that I've completed.  My hope is to post a "Note on a Pattern" and make the garment.  So, here is a preview of some of my upcoming projects.  

McCall M7978 - Blouse

Butterick B6915

Simplicity S9783

New Look NL6560 and Vogue V1294 - New Outfit Done

 

I'm so pleased with how both of these pieces turned out. It was a lot of fun making them. There are so many things I like about it.

Blouse

The fabric is lovely.  It is a polyester crepe from Minerva.   This soft, floaty fabric falls close to the body.  It sews and presses with no problems.  I love the bold, floral print.  There is an excellent balance between the ivory and black. 

The flounce is very feminine and pretty.  Most of the time, I shy away from neckline flounces, but this one doesn't add to my top heaviness.  

The sleeves are pretty and simple.  The bell falls perfectly above my hand held together by a piece of elastic.  Super simple to construct.  

I also like that the tie was separate from the top.  It closes with an inside twill tape tie and a buttonhole closure on the outside just above the waist.  I used a piece of interfacing to reinforce where I sewed on the button.

My adjustments to the front facing resulted in a wider lower facing.  I wish I had made the upper portion wider too, It kept flipping to the right side of the blouse.  So, after I under-stitched around the neckline, I stitched again to secure the facing to the blouse in hopes of reducing the flip over affect.

This was the second time I used this pattern.  Previously, I made view C and gifted that top to my sister.  So, I was already familiar with most of the construction steps.  In general, they are typical.  Nothing difficult or unique about them compared to other styles with similar instructions.

Pants

The pants are of a viscose suiting, also from Minerva Fabrics.  It has a crisp hand and a stiff drape.  Easy to sew and press.  I love a nice striped fabric.  The pinstripe is subtle, pairing the two fabrics there is no competition between the prints.  They complement each other.

I'll use this pattern again.  They are well drafted, and I love a curved waistband.  And I will definitely add welt pockets again.  They are a great detail.

My related posts are here: blouse and pants 

Happy Sewing!

C  

The Second Time Is A Charm - M6512

 

Yes, the second time is a charm if all the fit adjustments have been made.  Today I'm sharing one of my latest makes.  

When I received this lovely floral poly crepe from Minerva Fabrics, I decided to use McCall's M6512 again.  I have a few coordinates that really didn't have a good match.  So this blouse has filled another gap in my wardrobe.  

You may remember the first blouse.  It's part of my green wardrobe capsule and one of the UFO's that I finished last fall.  Once it was finished, I liked it even more than when I initially decided to make it.  And I like this second blouse just as much. 

It's perfect with my tangerine pants made a few years ago.  Actually, I can wear either blouse with the pants.  But I think the orange one looks the best.  Anyway, I am happy I have another pretty blouse in my wardrobe.

Stay Tuned more to come!

Cennetta

The Prettiest Blouse That Almost Wasn't Made - McCall M6512

 

This blouse was a tremendous save.  In the sense that this blouse has been in a bag in the UFO's bind for the longest time.  To be precise, I cut this blouse out shortly are I returned from the Palmer/Pletsch workshop in 2012.  

I can't say why it took me so long to finish it.  But I am very happy that it done and it still fits.  It fits in with my current wardrobe capsule plans.  

 

Enough on the back ground information.  Here is my pattern review.

Pattern Description:  Misses' Blouses:  Loose-fitting blouses A, B have neck and front bands, yoke, front sleeves (cut on crosswise grain of fabric), no shoulder seams, back pleats and narrow hem.  A:  Pleated pockets with button flaps and short sleeves rolled-up (wrong side shows) with button tab. B: Bias collar extends into tie ends and sleeves gathered into button cuffs with seam opening.

Pattern Sizing: The pattern comes in size groupings from 4 to 18.  I used size 16 with some modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, my finished blouse does look like the illustrations on the pattern envelope. 

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical with the Palmer/Pletsch instructions for adjustments, which are always a plus.  For the most part, I followed them.  I didn't like the suggested construction for the collar/tie and neck band.  My preference is to attach the neck band to the top first.  I like to check and make sure everything lines up as it should.  I also found it strange/different to interface the collar/tie.  In my mind, it should be soft and fluid. So, I hoped that it would be fine as I added the interfacing to the collar/tie.  As it turned out, it's a little stiff but still floaty.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? There are so many likes about the blouse, and there were a few challenges with the construction.  I start with the many likes.

Likes:

• The cut on sleeve that continues into the back yoke.
• The join of the blouse front at the arm hole.
• The front band and the 3/4 sleeves.
  
• The overall style of the blouse with the tie.
• My selection of fabric.  It's so soft and fluid.

 

• The join of the blouse front at the arm hole.

•  The front band and the 3/4 sleeves. 

•  The overall style of the blouse with the tie.

• My selection of fabric.  It's so soft and fluid.

Dislikes/Challenges:

• The construction of the collar/tie and neck band.
•  I struggled with the fabric.  The neck band and the front band that I cut eight years ago was a little off.  The fabric is slippery which makes it difficult to cut.  So when I re-cut these pieces (Thank God I had more fabric.), I block fused the interfacing to it before cutting out the pieces.
• In order to produce good buttonholes, I cut stripes of wax paper placing a piece on top and underneath the buttonhole area. 

 

 

Fabric Used: The fabric is a silk chiffon that I purchased during the Palmer/Pletsch workshop way back in 2012.  I purchased it at the Fabric Depot.  It is pretty, soft, and fluid. But difficult to handle.  It slips and slides.  Initially, my plan was to do french seams. Somehow, I forgot all about that after making two seams  (the back sleeve to the back blouse).  No way was I going to rip out the next set of seams.  So, tested the look of the zig zag on the sewing machine.  It didn't look good.  So I finished the rest of the seam with the serger.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  Some changes in construction are above. Additionally, I made a FBA.  No other pattern alterations.  My closure has seven buttons instead of six.

 

Next time, I'll add a few inches to the length of the sleeve and I don't think I'll add interfacing to the collar/tie.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, I want to make at least one more.  And yes, I recommend it to others.  My blouse turned out pretty good.  This first one was a very slow sew.  I spent time than I normally spent on a blouse of similar style.  In the end though, it was worth it.  Now, I have one less garment in the UFO bind.  And I'm very happy about that.  

Conclusion:This project was a little challenging, but with patience and perseverance I finished another UFO.  I ended up with one more pretty blouse in my closet.

Happy Sewing!

C

Eyes Closed Shut in Simplicity 4112

I cannot for the life of me figure out why my DD always has her eyes closed when I trying to take pictures.  This time I decided to go ahead with the posting, instead of taking more pictures again.

Another early spring 2018 project finally making it to the blog.  The (S4112) pattern is out of print, but still fashionable.  When I approached her with the idea to make a blouse, I was aiming for the another view pictured on the envelope.  She favored the second view.  So that what I made.

She is wearing it with a denim skirt that I made for my sister many years ago.  (No review on that today.)  

Simplicity gives sparse descriptive information.  All is stated is misses shirt and sash.  I will add Nehru or mandarin collar, button up with two sleeve variations.  Sizes 4 to 20.  I used size 12 with modifications.  

This was a fairly easy blouse to sew.  The instructions were typical and I did not see anything confusing in them.  There are a few pattern flaws and construction steps that I'd like to point out.  But first, I must say that this is a wearable muslin.  Because I didn't make one; I should have all things considered.

• The front and back pattern length are different.  Matching up the notches, the back is slightly longer than the front.

  
• There is more ease in the neckline.  I made it work by easing, soft gathering to make it fit.

  
• There is some pulling at the neckline.  That could be due to my daughter's square shoulders.  Something that I have adjusted in the past, but some how forgot for this project.
• The armhole has more curve in it than expected, considering setting/curve of the sleeve, even with gathers, if that makes sense.

I like the sleeve variations and the longer hemline with the sash.

No real dislike beyond the small things mentioned above.

The fabric that I used came from Vogue Fabrics in Evanston.  I think I bought it a few years ago.  It's a lightweight cotton blend.  Easy to sew and press.  Perfect for a button up shirt.

I doubled the front facing to help support the buttonholes and buttons.  To make the buttonholes, I sewed each once then again to get a nice even stitching.

The minor flaws are just that; easy to correct.  So this is a pattern that I would consider using again for her and maybe myself.  I have two copies. 

Anyway, this one is a short review on a pretty simple blouse to sew.

Happy Sewing!

C