Sweater Knits - A Difference In Sizing Burda Style 6990

Of course,  you all already know that all knits are not alike.  Sometimes I have to remind myself. Especially when I'm making multiple versions of a given pattern.  Way back in January, I made two turtleneck tops using sweater knits from So Sew Fabrics.  The graduated color knit is just a basic weave sweater knit with a slightly course hand and about 30 percent stretch.  While the tan ribbed sweater knit is very soft and has about 60 percent stretch.

My original plan was to make the Burda Style 6990 turtleneck top for me and my daughter.  I traced off size large for me and medium for DD.  Of course, I wanted the brown knit for myself; and DD gladly took the tan ribbed knit.  As it turned out, my top was perfect.  But when DD tried on her top, it looked like she was wearing my top. Lol

So I tried it on. It fits me almost perfectly.  The armsyce needed a little adjustment.  I ended up with two new turtleneck tops.  Unfortunate for DD. Lol  I'll make her something later.

These new turtlenecks fit into my brown wardrobe capsule.  They go well with pull-on pants and jeans.  I'm pictured wearing the brown top with my TNT Vogue V8859 pull-on pants.  I love this pattern.

No pictures of me wearing the second top yet.  I hope to post that soon.

Notes on the pattern -

This was a very easy top to sew.  I especially like the cut on the sleeve.  It fit well under the arm and looks good in the shoulder area.  This pattern does have great bones.  I could make a hundred of these.

There is nothing complicated or confusing about the construction of the top.  And it has three other views that look great too.  I think I will also try the shawl collar view.

Parting Shots:  Because it was a sunny day, we wanted to take some pictures outside.  But it was windy and cold.  Anyway, we tried.  I couldn't keep a straight face or hold a good pose.  So here are a few fun/silly shots.

Happy Sewing!

C

 

Client Holiday Skirt - Burda 6390

Hi Everyone,

Christmas is just a few days away. With parties, celebrations, and quite a bit of sewing going on in my world, no time for blogging and very little time for Instagraming.  But I just had to post this picture of Alesa, my dear friend's daughter holiday skirt that I made two weeks ago.

Burda 6390 dress pattern is what I used to make it.  I'm not sure if this is a true pattern hack.  I simply used the skirt portion of the dress, added a lining with tulle and a waistband.  That's it!

I simply put it together like any other seven gored skirt with a zipper back and waistband.  To show off the fullness of the skirt, I added a lining that I sewed on two tiers of gathered tulle.  The tulle is between the lining and the skirt.  The front of the waistband is about 3 inches wide tapering to 1.5 inches wide in the back.

She chose this audacious, eye popping, African or Ankara print fabric that she purchased at a local store on west 95th street in the Chicago Beverly area.  This no fuss cotton fabric sewed up quickly and the finished press was nice and crisp.

Alesa received loads of compliments, and she was over-joyed with her "holiday outfit".  After her event, she reminded me that this would not be the last skirt I'd make for her. ;-)

Pattern Ready!

Happiest of Holiday!
Cennetta

First Quarter 2019 - In Review

Late to publication:  I wrote this April 24, 2019.  Posted April 29, 2019  Warning Long Post

We are 24 days into the second quarter of the year.  It's spring and I like many others in the mid-west are relieved that the sun is shining more, the temperatures are warmer, and the days are longer.  All of these signs of spring motivate me to be more productive.  One of the things that I've wanted to start to do is post a quarterly review of my sewing projects.  This is a practice that I used to do when I was working at the university.  It kept me on task with my goals for the year.  It also help me highlight milestones accomplished rather than waiting until the end of the year to review the status of set goals.  In my sewing, this will help me catalog my sewing projects and help me focus on accomplishing more of my annual goals.  So, I'll note garment types, fabric used, and construction techniques practiced in one simple quarterly post.

Sometimes, for whatever reason, some projects never get posted to the blog.  They somehow get lost in the shuffle of my day-to-day routine of thinking about sewing rather than be able to do something sewing related.  So these quarterly posts will if nothing more give mention to ALL makes good, bad, and given away.

So it begins:

January - Wardrobe Building Month:  I wanted to beef up my staples, and I wanted to make comfortable easy to wear knit garments.  My focus was on quick and easy pieces that sewed up really fast, but also had some cute style elements.

• Simplicity 8643 - Pleated Front t-shirt.  It's a great alternative to a basic t-shirt.  Luckily I was able to make it without doing a FBA.  Fabric Marcy Tilton  2 yards

• Christine Jonson Funnel Neck Top Travel Trio 2 - Simple, cute, and easy. Fabricmart Fabrics 1.5 yards

• McCall 7812 Drawstring front top - I wanted a new style.  This pattern fit the bill.  First, I made a "red wearable muslin" that I decided to gift someone.  The second one is perfect. Fabricmart Fabrics 1.5 yards for each.

• Christine Jonson Center Seam Pullon Pants - I love these pants.  I made a black and a chartreuse pair.  Two pair made using a total of 4 yards from Mood Fabrics

     Not Posted -

• McCall 7688 - Drawstring knit dress.  I didn't like it on me.  So I'm gifting it to my sister.  Will post later.  Mood Fabrics, 2 yards
• PaperCut Oh-la-la Leggings.  Sorry, I didn't post these yet.  Later with a new top. Mood Fabrics, 2 yards

February - Another month of easy, quick garments.  I needed some new t-shirt dresses to replace the worn ones.  These dresses took less than three hours to sew.  I also made a quilted jacket.  Something a little different from my usual sewing garments for myself.  This jacket was a UFO, cut and ready to sew over a year ago.  I added a lining for the front, back and sleeves.  February I ended with only three garments made, but each is unique in it's own right.  Be it color, style or fabric texture.

• Christine Jonson Funnel Neck Top and M7386 skirt - dress hack - This was a simple blending of two easy patterns that produced a cute little black flirty dress.    Fabric Mood Fabrics 3 yards

• Vogue 1314, my TNT t-shirt dress.  This one I changed up a bit.  Using the pattern lining front and back, I lengthen the dress, added slits to the sides, and finished the look with a thin belt. 2 yards

• M7254 - Cardigan/Jacket.  This one had been waiting in a box for about two years.  Already cut and ready.  What was I waiting for.  It turned out to be a winner.  Fabric from Mood and Vogue Fabrics about 3 yards

March - For the final month of the quarter, I decided to make two coats.  This coat pattern had been on my to make list for awhile.  The sewing techniques that I'm hoping to major are: welt pockets and attaching the lining to the coat to emulate the techniques seen in ready to wear coat.

• Burda 6462 - Long belted boyfriend coat.  Special sewing techniques bound buttonholes and fully lined and attached at the hem of the coat.

• Burda 6462 - Short fur collared boyfriend coat.  This is my favorite of the two.

Burda Style Boyfriend Coat - Coats in March Part II

Coat number two.  This coat is so for right now.

I'm batting a 100 with my selecting fabrics from Mood.  I've had nothing but success and happiness when I select a textiles and other goodies from Mood.  My coat is made of Mood's Infinity Black and Multi-Color Gray/Black Abstract.  I purchased this about two years ago, but was undecided about what kind of coat to make.  I chose this fabric because of it's unique texture and weave.  I love combining classic styles with interesting fabrics. This one has a lot of body.  It's a looser ropy weave with a slightly rough hand.  When cut, it unravels like a jacquard.  So you need to finish the edges or sew it up quick.  It presses easy and is easy to mold into shape.  If you are so inspired to make a coat, here is a link to some gorgeousness.

The upper collar of my coat is Mood's Faux Black Bear Fur (#312623).  Sorry it's no longer in stock.  But come fall you may be able to see it again at the online store.  It's thick, soft and shiny.  It feels wonderful against my skin.  Here is a link to a variety of Faux Fur. There is so many styles and choices to choose from.

To cut the faux fur, I used a single edge razor blade instead of scissors.  First, I started by trace the pattern onto the wrong side of the fur with tailor chalk.  Then I used the razor to cut out the upper collar.  This method reduces the amount of cut fur.  After sewing the upper and under collars together, I used a straight pin to pick out the fur caught in the stitches.

The lining is Canary/Rose iridescent twill lining.  (#FN26445).  You can't go wrong with Mood's twill lining.  I order it all the time to line coats, dresses, skirts.  You name it.

This is the second coat that I made using Burda Style 6462.  You can find some of the basic pattern details here on my blog.

for this view, I only made a few minor changes:

• Lengthen the sleeves 1"
• Lengthen the coat by a few 1"
• I used Diane's hemming technique from her YouTube tutorial

This pattern is perfect for that desired boyfriend coat that you've been wanting to make.  One of the things that drew me to this pattern was the welt pockets and another opportunity to practice making them.

For the buttonholes, I did two applications per buttonhole to help reduce the chance of fraying.  Then I generously applied Fray Check allowing it to dry over night before cutting the buttonholes open.  It worked like a charm.

I'm going to get a lot of wear out of this beauty.  Starting this spring! ;-)

Happy Sewing!
C

Coats in March!? Burda 6462 Boyfriend Coat

Yes, I decided to make coats in March!  Who does THAT?  After all the fuss, "When is Spring going to get here?  I'm tried of the cold."  After all the whining, I chose to sew two coats for my March sewing projects.  The thought didn't suddenly pop into my head.  These are two of the coats I planned to make in the fall 2018, but never got around to it.  So, better late than later, chuckle, chuckle..,

Spring might a better time to make coats.  When fall rolls around, all I'll have to do is reach in the closet and pick one.  I cut out both coats at the same time, using Burda 6462.  I started the construction of this one first.  Once I had the body of it assembled, I started on the second one.  That post will following this one.

I bought this pattern January 2018, in preparation for making at least one coat in the fall.  My eye was drawn to view A.  I love long, sweeping coats.  This one was a bit over-sized and I'd hoped to by-pass the all full bust adjustment process.  But in retrospect it would have fit better in the chest area if I had.  And I could have gone down a size.  There is a lot of style ease throughout the body of the coat.  In some ways this is very good, especially in my neck of the woods.  Plenty of room to add layers.  Secondly, it is a great example of a boyfriend coat.

Today, the sun was super bright (Temps in the 40's).  So bright that many of the photos were washed out making the actual color of the coat appear to be muted.  When, in fact, the color of the fabric is a dark green with some dark gray under tones.  It also has little white specks in it.

The Burda Style 6462 description is vague as usual.  It simply states AB: normal welt, semi-fitted.  That's it!   The style is NOT that simple.  The coats are lined, over-sized with notched collar.  Collar and sleeve variations.  Patched pocket or welt pockets.  View A is belted with a detachable collar.  This is a better description.

More details to come later in the review.

The pattern includes sizes: 8-20.  I used 16 with a few modifications.

My coats do look similar to the ones pictured on the envelope.  This view A pictured on the model, looks like it could be slightly longer in the back, but the drawing does not indicate that.  Both modeled coats do show a dropped in-set sleeves.  So I think the pictures are pretty much how my coats turned out.

Burda's instructions are not the best.  They do not give enough information.  This was not a challenge for me.  Because I've had some experience with making coats.  Burda's instructions start with view B on how to assemble the welt pockets.  There is some skipping around.  I just followed my own way of constructing the body and the lining.

There were so many little details about the coat that I liked:

• I love it when the pattern includes separate pattern pieces for the upper and under collars.  It looks so much better when the upper collar rounds slightly under.  So you don't see where the two pieces meet, especially along the center back.
• There are two different patterns for the front and the front facings.  The inside center front looks so much nicer when the coat is open.  And the front isn't overly heavy due to the facing and the front being the same size.
• There is a shoulder dart just beneath the lapel.  Easy to adjust for the hallow area above the bust.
• The center back seam.  Always a plus for me. 
• Welt pockets.  This is something that I want to include in my 2019 sewing.  

  My dislikes:

• The thread loops for the belt.  I think carriers would have been better.  So that's one of my minor changes.
• There was almost no ease in the sleeve cap.  Maybe because the sleeves fall below the shoulder bone.  

My fabric is from my stash.  It's from FabricMart Fabrics.  I've had it about 5 years or so.  Again, the color is a dark green/dark gray under tones with white specks throughout.  It has a very nice, soft hand.  The pile has a velvet feel to it.  Love it.  The lining is from Mood.  It is called sycamore green twill viscose lining (#319547).  Another beautiful pieces of fabric.

I did not make my usual full bust or sway back adjustments.  I figured that this is an over-sized coat.  Who would notice?

• I did lengthen the sleeves by 1"
• Lengthen the coat by a few inches
• I didn't make the detachable collar of the knit cuffs.
• Instead of thread loops, I made carriers.
• For the upper body and hems, I interfaced them.
• Along the fold line of the lapel, I added stay tape.  (I should have taken a picture.)
• I followed, Diane method for hemming the coat.  This is something I wanted to do for the longest time.  She also has the template on her blog.  This one is not perfect, but I think I'll keep using this method.  It looks so nice.
• Added bound buttonholes instead of regular ones.  (Do more in 2019)

 

This is the hem of the second coat. I forgot to take a picture of the first one.

I like this pattern, but I don't think I will use it again.  I have dozens of coat patterns to try.  I do recommend it to others, though.

Next up is will be my review on my second coat, View B, Burda Style 6462.

Happy Sewing,
C