Just In Time For Spring - Kelly Anorak Jacket - Part II

 

Good morning everyone,

It's a beautiful day in the Chicago area.  The sun is shining, the grass is green and lush with the temperatures in the 50's.  It's a great day.  Yesterday was pretty much the same as today, just a little warmer.  

Today I want to give you the deets on my new Kelly Anorak jacket.  It took about five sessions averaging five and half hours.  This was a new pattern to me.  But I've seen several dozen makes on Instagram and other social media outlets.  I think it's a jacket worth making.  

Yesterday I did my little photo shoot in a little park not too far from my home.  Sorry I forgot the name of it.  Anyway, we were able to get a few good shots of me wearing my first Kelly Anorak jacket.

Here is the description straight from their website:  Style meets function with the Kelly Anorak; a classic shape with a modern cut, this simple coat is the perfect choice for transitional weather.

Lightweight and unlined, it features a two-piece cuffed sleeve, optional drawstring waist, gusseted flap pocket and a zipper placket with snap buttons.  View A will keep you warm and dry with a roomy three-piece hood, while View B features a classic stand-up collar.

Kelly is just right made up in light to medium-weight woven fabric such as twill, gabardine, and linen, and will make the ultimate rain coat when sewn with a waterproof fabric like ripstop or Goretex.

I purchased the online PDF version, which comes in sizing 0 to 20.  I used size 16 and made the unlined version.

My jacket does look like the photographs and the drawings.  In looking at my photos I did notice that my sleeves have more wearing/style ease in them.  It could be because of the sizing.  Note: the sleeve cap also has quite a bit of ease in it. 

Closet Core did an excellent job of providing information on the construction of the jacket.  A few years ago, they hosted a sew-a-long and posted multiple blogs on how to best construct the jacket.  The pattern instructions were very good too. 

There is so much to like about the jacket.  My likes are:

• The style of it.  I've wanted an anorak fashioned jacket for a while,  But hesitated on making it, thinking it was too labor intensive for a basic jacket.  Since making my first one, I think it is a great sewing projects. 
• The construction is loaded with different sewing techniques to practice.  Top-stitching, flat fell seams, installing a zipper, installing snaps and grommets.
• The hood.  It is great for keeping my hands free if it rains while I'm out shopping.
• The length of the jacket.  Perfect for getting in and out of the car multiple times while running errands.
• The pockets.  Love them: the style and construction.

There is one dislike for my first jacket.  And that is, I didn't do a FBA.  I should have.  There is enough room across the front of my jacket.  But in the bust area, there isn't enough length to keep the drawstring completely parallel to the floor.  That's a minor flaw that I can easily correct.  Closet Core has a tutorial on how to make a FBA without a dart.  

 

The fabric that I used is a Stretch Cotton Twill that I purchased from Mood fabrics a few years ago.  This fabric is no longer available.  But they have a huge selection of twills in stock if you are interested.   

Along with the pattern I purchased the Kelly Anorak Hardware Kit. I loved having the kit.  It made tackling the snap and grommet installation easy.  No extra trips to the store to find the right size or style.  Also, there is a tutorial to help with installing them.  I didn't use the zipper or the drawstring due to the color of my jacket.  I'll just save it for another project down the road.

The only thing that I altered was the length of the sleeves. Now, they fall about an inch past my wrist bone.  So they are a little on the long side.  But that's okay.

I like to make my own bias tape.  For this jacket I used a remnant from this skirt.  Here is my tutorial on how to make it. 

I enjoyed making this jacket.  I'm so glad that Rhonda and I decided to go ahead with our mini sew-a-long.  It encouraged me to get it done in time for the spring/winter/summer weather in Chicago. Lol

I will make the jacket again.  At least once more for myself.  I want a jacket with a quilted lining, and I'll do the FBA next time.  My DD loved my jacket.  So I have to make one for her too. ;-)  This is a great sewing project for other sewists.  Especially if your are wanting to try some of the sewing techniques mentioned above.  You'll have a great looking jacket.  One to be proud of ;-)

Parting Shot:  My silly out take.  We always try to have a little fun during the photo shoot. 

 

Happiness in the Sewing Studio!

C

Ralph Lauren Blue Nights Stretch Denim In Body Hugging Ginger Jeans

What better way to show off your body hugging Ginger jeans than a day at the Art History Museum of Chicago to see the Mainbocher Exhibit.   The Haute Couture Club of Chicago field trip took place of December 4th where several club members showed off their Ginger jeans.

I was happily sporting my new pair made with Ralph Lauren blue nights stretch denim from Mood Fabrics.  I ordered five yards, enough for two pair and than some.  This is a great denim to work with.  It has just the right amount of stretch for a great fitting pair of jeans.  The cotton adds texture and durability for long lasting wear and comfort.

My sister tagged along with me to the museum and was able to see and hear about the making of everyone's jeans.  Of course, she wanted a pair.  Later, I had her to try mines on.  They fit her better than they fit me!

So I let her have them along with my Ralph Lauren striped cotton blouse.  So yesterday, she took these photos for this post.  Afterward, she didn't hesitate to let me know that she'd love another pair.  But first, I need to make a pair for myself. ;-)

Anyway.., here is more on the making of the jeans.

Pattern Description:  Closet Case Ginger Jeans View A low rise with narrow stovepipe legs.  View B high-waisted with skinny legs and a tummy-slimming pocket stay.  I made view B.

Pattern Sizing: 0 - 20; I made size 14 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?   Yes, they did.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were very good and easy to follow.  Rhonda Buss did a sew along for Sew News that provides great illustrations on the sewing process.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I especially like the option of having two different jean styles in one pattern.  Although view B is rise-waisted, they don't look like "mommy jeans".  The slim leg makes them figure flattering while providing some control around the medium section if you need it.

I didn't like the placement of the back pocket.  It is too low on the hip.  I moved the pockets up about 1.5 inches.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  The back hook is too short.  I added about an inch to it.  Of course, I added a few inches to the length of the leg.  I mentioned earlier that they were a better fit on my sister.  This pair I didn't make a swayback adjustment.  So the center back of the pants stands away from my waist, and the leg wasn't a snug on me.  Next, pair I will make that adjustment.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Most certainly would.  I need to make at least two more pairs:  one for me and one for my daughter.  And yes, I recommend them to others.

Conclusion:  This is a great jean pattern with two style options.  I would recommend that you test the fit by making a muslin before you cut into your Ralph Lauren Stretch Denim.  ;-)

Parting Shots:  These are from the Mainbocher Exhibit.  If your in the Chicago land area, check it out.  It's very interesting.  Mainbocher was a first in a few fashion design elements, and he designed uniforms for the Girl Shouts of America and the U.S. Armed Forces.

Notes on A Pattern - Closet Case Ginger Jeans - The First Sew

Hello everyone,

I hesitated on sharing my first try at making Closet Case - Ginger Jeans.  Because I made the worst choice of fabric for them.  The pattern clearly states that you should use a stretch medium fabric for these jeans.  But a silly little thought came to my mind: just make them with this pretty floral print demin (with no stretch).  It will be all right.

Well, after about three hours of construction, my DD tried them on and they were too little.  I screamed in and out, more on the inside.  Lol  I couldn't believe it.  I tried to save them by adding gussets to the sides.  Now, it's from bad to worst. It looked tacky.  The true of the matter: these jeans should be made (as stated) out of a stretch woven fabric, period.

I could kick myself.  So, At that point, I decided to start on the next pair for myself, which was a stretch woven demin. More on that project later.

Today, I wanted to share my blunder and share my likes and dislikes.

The Pattern: I used view B 

There were a few things that I liked about the construction and design of the jeans.

• The shape of the inside edge of the pocket.  It is slightly curved.
• The construction technique of the pocket bag. Rhonda illustrates how to on the Sew News blog.
• The slim leg of the pant
• The option of normal rise (A) or high rise (B) pant
• The pieces go together beautifully

Things I didn't like:

• The placement of the back pocket.  They are too low.  I had to move them up about 1.5 inches.
• I ordered the downloadable version to get the pattern fast.  I hated taping it together.

Another note:  The hook on the back pant is too short.  I extended it.  So you may want to test it against another pattern that fits well to make sure it's the right length for you.

More Fitting needed:  The high rise is a bit too high for me.  Next pair I will reduce it by an inch.  I used size 14 and didn't do any adjustment for my swayback.  The pants stand away from my body without a belt on.  I will correct this as well.

That's all for now.  Stay tuned more to come on the Ginger Jean.   

Happy Sewing,

C