Today, I wanted to share a few notes on Vogue V1387, view A. This pattern has been in my collection for a several years. I hesitated to attempt to make the full bust adjustment (FBA). I thought about it and determine the following would be the way to go. There is probably a more effective solution, but this is how I chose to tackle the fit adjustment.
I started with slashing the upper bodice vertically from the pleated area to the waist, adding paper to fill the space.
Next, I added length by slashing the front bodice horizontally. The same amount of length was added to the back upper bodice (not shown).
Then, I redistributed the pleats and the space between them. Now, there are three pleats instead of two.
After making these adjustments, I made a muslin to check the fit. When I tried on the muslin, I identified a few more adjustments needed. NOTE: don't skip sewing the armband and gusset. It will help you determine if there is a good fit in the armhole and bust and upper back areas.
Additional adjustments after fitting the muslin:
- more vertical width (front bodice) resulting in a fourth pleats.
- more vertical width across the back. I noticed pull at the shoulder blades.
- added tuck in the yoke at the upper back.
- added length where the shoulder seam would be.
- reduced fullness at the lower back just above the waist.
More later.
Happy Sewing!
C
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