The Brocade Makes The Jacket - Butterick B6915

A little over a year ago, I briefly mentioned my work on the muslin for the jacket of this pattern.  Since that time, I did more tweaking of the pattern and decided to use a beautiful brocade that I purchased from Mood Fabrics several years ago during a visit to New York.  

I thought the style of the jacket was the perfect match for the brocade.  Granted I did want to reduce any chance of something going wrong or turning out wonky before I cut into my fabric.  I really love the fabric and wanted to make something special with it.   

We are now in the hot, muggy days of summer.  It was 94 degrees when I took the photos of me wearing my outfit.  Though the coloration of my new suit is bright and cheery, it is perfect for the fall/winter season.  

Pattern Description:  Classic two-piece suit with a twist.  Lined jacket draws asymmetrically across the body and fastens with three buttons.  Jacket features flap detail at front.  Pants come in ankle length and includes invisible zipper on the side.  View C are wide leg pants.  I made view A and B.

Pattern Sizing:  It comes in two size groups (8 - 16) and (18 - 26) I used size 16 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, my outfit does look like the drawing and the suit that the model is wearing.  

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical and easy to follow.  There was nothing confusing about them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  

Likes -

• The asymmetrical style line of the jacket.
• The pleats at the neckline of the jacket
• The princess seam.

Dislikes -

• The one piece sleeve.  I prefer a two piece sleeve for a suit jacket.  These sleeves were snug and there was too much in the sleeve cap for my fabric.  When I made the muslin the amount of ease in the sleeve cap was easy to work into the armhole.  But in the brocade it was slightly difficult.  I had to set the sleeve three times.

Fabric Used:  My fabrics were purchased at Mood Fabrics during a trip to met up with several sewing friends (Carolyn, Andrea, Gaylen)  in New York.  My jacket fabric is a silk brocade and the pants is a medium weight polyester satin.  

 
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I made several pattern adjustments beginning with the full bust adjustment and my usual back adjustments.  I also lengthen the sleeves and added an inch width to the upper arm area.  For the pants I had to lengthen the leg and crotch.  Sorry no photo of that adjustment.

After making the adjustments and a muslin, I still needed to make a few tweaks as I sewed.  Below is a photo of me fitting the lower half of the jacket along side of photo of the finished outfit.  See the difference in the flare of the peplum.  I ripped it all out and reduced the peplum along the sides. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I think once is enough.  But, I do recommend this pattern to others.  You should make a muslin before cutting into your fashion fabric.

Conclusion: I'm pleased with how this suit turned out.  I'll probably wear it the first chance I get when cooler weather returns.  This pattern is not difficult to sew. It's time consuming and you should take your time and enjoy the process.

Color Blocked Jacket With Ooh La La Leggings - Vogue V8795 and PaperCut Leggings

 

I decided months ago to make another pair of OohLaLa leggings.  Actually, I planned to make two pairs out of the designer rayon double knits that I purchased from Gorgeous Fabrics last fall.  After completing them I had about 3/4 yard leftover of each color.  It was too much to through away and two little to make another garment.  I was determined not to start another bin of scraps as I already have several in my sewing studio and in the garage.   So, I had to figure out some way to use them up immediately after making my leggings.  

This is why I came up with the idea to make a color blocked jacket.  It took some thought and a whole lot of playing Tetris with the pattern pieces.  The best design solution was to make each side a different color.  It was still a challenge with making the sleeves long enough.  So, I did something that my grandmother taught me many, many years ago.  She called the process "piece mill".  The sleeves are actually two pieces sewn together to get the desired sleeve length of the jacket.   I guess it could be considered a design element.  

Once I got all the pieces cut out, I began to happily put together my jacket.  This is not the first time that I used this pattern.  I first made the jacket way, way back in January 2013. It is Vogue V8795.  The complete review on that project is here.

The first time I made the leggings was in 2015.   I loved them and can't say why it took my so long to make them again.  The Papercut Ooh LaLa Leggings are reviewed here.   

There is nothing to add to the review of the leggings.  They were super easy to make and my likes remain the same.  As for the jacket, the major difference is color blocking it.  My design changes are centered around using a limited amount of two different fabrics to get one complete jacket.   The sleeves are two pieces: a upper and a lower piece.  The back of the jacket is also two pieces with a center back seam. This jacket is about 1" shorter than the first one due to fabric limitations.

I love how the jacket came together.  The whole process was fun.  All of the fabric was used. And I have a little jacket that I can wear with either pair of leggings. 

The fabric is a Designer Rayon Double Knit from Gorgeous Fabrics.  Here is where you can find the Deep Purple on Ann's site.   There are several  other colors to choose from.  This knit is wonderful.  It does not pill and has great recovery.    

I'm pleased with this project.  It was the last outfit that I made for myself in 2020.  I think it was a good final project.  The leggings are great and super easy.  Although the jacket took a little time to make, I am very pleased with the results and glad I was able to use the scraps.  Both patterns are a good sew, and I recommend them.

Happy Sewing!

C

Heather Purple Solid Coating - Cold Buster

 

We are well into the coat wearing season.  But there is still time to make that special coat you've been dreaming of.

This is the second coat that I made using Butterick 6385.  The first was finished at the end of January. So the review of the pattern is in that post.

 My daughter's coat was made way back in April.  I decided to wait until now to post it since April is spring time and who wants to see a winter coat after all the cold and snow.

Last week was the first time she wore it, and it was the perfect answer to the mid-western bone chilling winter frost.  Temperatures are in the 20's.  Burrrr!  Good thing I chose another great coat fabrics from Mood:  Heather Purple Solid Coating and the Warm Olive Twill Viscose Lining.   A great match for beauty inside and out.

The heather coating is 100% wool.  I love working with natural fabrics.  This wool is easy to press and to shape into the desired form.  The olive twill lining is crisp and tightly woven with a beautiful sheen finish.  Both textiles were a joy to work with.

Unfortunately, both are sold out.  No worries though.  Mood has a vast array of coat and lining fabrics to choose from.  Don't wait though.  Designers and sewists, alike are snapping up their outwear textiles like nobody's business.

For this coat I used snaps instead of buttonholes and I eliminated the bust darts  Those are basically the only changes to the construction of the coat.  Anything else is pretty much the same as the first coat.  Because I had been down this road before, it went together quickly.  And my DD was very happy to have a new coat before the winter season started. 


Happy Sewing!
C

PS - Hat and scarf also made by me. ;-)