Shirt Making Project Spring/Summer 2020 - Simplicity S1166

Sometime in January, I decided to do another "Shirt Making Project".  To start, I cut out three shirt using Simplicity S1166.  These shirts were in a bag in the UFO bin that I had almost forgotten about.  This week I decided it was about time I made them.  This is a pattern that I used before.  The initial review and project here.

I like the shape of the collar and design of the sleeves.  These details make it a little better than your average button down shirt (to me).  They can  also make or break the project as they are focal points of the garment. Making this batch of shirts was an opportunity to do a lot of top-stitching and paying attention to the simple details and construction processes.

Tip 1:  Construction of the Collar

The collar is large and curvy ending in the typical point on each end.  There are a few approaches to making the point just right.  I posted Sandra Betzina's method of redrafting the collar pattern.  The details:  Part I and Part II. 

For these shirts I used another method.  Sorry I don't know what it is called.  But, instead of sewing the seam and pivoting at the corner.  I made it "squared" at the corner then I pivoted to continue.  This is done in addition to "not" interfacing the corners of the collar.

The next few steps are critical:  Use a pointer/creaser to help turn the collar inside out using the point to push the tip of the collar out.

Next, this is key:  Pressing.  I made sure I gave that collar a great press.

My last step is the top-stitching.  I use thread at each point to help guide the collar under the needle.  Often, at the corners of a garment it is difficult to get the end to move through the stitching area.

This method is also good for the cuffs.

Tip 2:  Construction of the Buttonholes

These days I'm making a lot of garments that button down the front.  This is another focal point and I want it to look as good as possible.  I've said this many times before.  I test before I do it on my actual project.  And for each shirt, each type of fabric I tested making the buttonholes.

After successful testing, I sew the buttonholes on my garment.  They are not complete without some Dritz Fray Check.  After the buttonholes are constructed, I apply fray check and allow it to completely dry before opening the buttonholes.

So that's it for my tips.  I hope this information is helpful.

Happy Sewing!

C

More Fabric Savvy by Sandra Betzina

Good evening all,

I wanted to take some time to talk about books written by Sandra Betzina.  This first one is the updated edition of her Fabric Savvy guide for selecting and sewing fabric.  This time it's titled, "More Fabric Savvy".  The book provides exactly what's indicated on the cover, a quick resource guide to selecting and sewing fabric.  The book includes a brief introduction followed by a list of 101 different fabrics, glossaries, more helpful tips for handling fabrics, sources, and index.

It is a handy hard cover book with spiral binding so the book lays flat on the table for hands free reading. The pages are nice light weight card shock that can withstand tons of page turning. 

I really like how the book is organized.  The fabrics are listed in alphabetical order with two pages of content devoted to each one.  Each section includes facts about the fabric, what it's suitable for, and sewing tips.  Tips for working with the fabric include recommendations for preshrinking, marking and cutting, interfacing selection, the best thread and needles to use, stitching guides, seam finishings, pressing, and hems.  A photograph of a garment made from each fabric type is included on the fabric fact page to provide a clear illustration of how the fabric can be used.

You can purchase the book on the Power Sewing website for the reasonable price of $24.95. I highly recommend this book. The holiday season is upon us and this would be a nice stocking stuffer for yourself or for your crafty sewing friends.

Parting Shots:

Ron Collins at the September 2012 Power Sewing Retreat demonstrating how to do a burn test. 

Also below is a quick reference sheet for determining fabric fiber content using the burn test.  Caution:  hold fabric with tweezers and have a cup of water to extinguish the flame when conducting your burn test.