Djenne Collection - Clothing and Fabric - Store Review

 I can't believe I've never reviewed this store.  It is a gold mine filled to the brim with African attire and Ankara fabric.  It is a must shop at store located on west 95th Street in the Beverly neighborhood of Chicago.

Djenne Collection

1759 West 95th Street

Chicago, IL  60643

The store is huge, or it appears to be huge.  At the front of the shop are accessories, jewelry, skin care, and all kinds of scents for the home.  Clothing is throughout to the rafters, literally.  In the middle of the store is Ankara fabric heaven.  At the back of the store, there are tailors and seamstresses.  You rarely see them.  But every once in a while, someone will emerge from the back of the shop.

I have shopped there numerous times.  In the passed, I've had clients who wanted an African styled garment for Black History month.  Most recently, Calumet Middle School, has commissioned stoles made of Kente clothe.  For one of my recent projects, I wanted to use Ankara fabric for it.  Djenne is the place to go!

The staff is always courteous and helpful.  You are greeted with a smile and a helpful attitude.  Great place to shop.  I only wish there were more ma and pa shops like this around town.

This is one of my favorite things in the store, a symbol chart.

As you can see, I took lots of pictures at my last visit, in February, to give you an idea of what the store looks like.

Happy shopping!

Cennetta

Simplicity S8992 A Simple Easy Dress

 

Pattern Description:  Misses' front buttoning dress or cardigan, with options for pattern hacking. Garment length and sleeve length variations. Designed and sized for stretch knit fabrics only. Can be constructed using an overlocker/serger. I used size large with a few modifications. 

Pattern Sizing:  It's contains Sizing XXS to XXL.  I made view A, the dress with belt loops and belt.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  It does look like the drawing. I decided to contrast the belt and create a contrasting band much like the inspiration dress. Note:  I made two belts: one in the floral knit and the other in the contrasting ribbed knit. 

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were easy and typical. There was nothing confusing in them. A beginner should be able to make this.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  There is much to like about the pattern. It's a great template for designing your own cardigans and button- front knit dresses. That is one of my favorite elements about the pattern  I like the fit and the style of the dress. This is a great silhouette for me, A- line. Third, the in-set pockets and the front and back facings doubling as a band to add some more interest to the dress.  That's what this pattern is about, having the option to create personalized look.

Fabric Used: This ponte roma double knit is from Minerva Fabrics. I love the vibrant colors and the feel of it.  These colors are so me. And who doesn't love a floral print.  It was easy to sew. I prewashed it and it came out of the dryer soft and fluffy. It's a great piece of textual.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  Lucky for me I didn't have to do major fit adjustments. The fabric had a fair amount of stretch, but it's not stretched out when I'm wearing the dress. It just rest nicely against my body. I only added a small amount of width at the bust area. Nothing more.  I was amazed at how well it fits. My other change was in the design. See previous post for that and a few tips.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes and yes. I want to make another dress and a cardigan. This pattern can be used again and again. All level sewists can craft beautiful pieces using this pattern.

Conclusion:  I am very pleased with how my dress turned out.  It sewed together with no problems and it wears like a dream. The colors of the fabric are spot on for me. And the texture of the is lovely.  Happiness.

Happy Sewing!

C

The Shirt Project 2020 - Simplicity S1166 In Review

The making of these three shirts is the beginning of my second Shirt Project.  About two weeks ago, I found the shirts in a bag while inventorying my UFO bin.  Everything was already cut and marked.  All I needed to do was sew them.  This was the perfect project to finish while I wait for my button order to arrive.

I made this shirt once before, but I didn't do a full pattern review.  So today I'd like to share my thoughts on this pattern. 

Simplicity almost never gives a good description of the pattern views. For this one they just said, "Misses' blouse, skirt, and bra top.  How vague is that?

My description for view B - Misses' blouse with dolman like 3/4 length cuffed sleeves with wide collar and curved hem.

The pattern comes in sizes 6 to 24. The sizes are grouped: 6-14  and 16-24.  I used size 14 with modifications.

This drawing and the envelope photo do not match.  The drawing is the same silhouette as my blouse, but the blouse on the model is different.  Either the blouse she is wearing  is three sizes too big or the pattern design is for an all together different pattern than what is provided in the envelope.

The instructions were easy, and I didn't see anything confusing in them.  I did make some fit adjustments and minor changes for my versions.

My likes:

• Sleeve design
• Wide collar
• Cuffs

No real dislikes other than the misinterpretation of the design modelled on the envelope.

I used three different fabrics from three different sources:

• Iridescent Blue Kaufman Greenwich Chambray Cotton is from Fabric.Com. Love this fabric.  It has a teal undertone.  It is super soft.  I ordered this one two years ago.  And it was what I requested plus the end of the bolt pieces.  So they probably don't have this one anymore. Striped Cotton Blend is from Vogue Fabrics in Evanston, Illinois.  Beautiful fabrication: sews, presses, and wears very well.  This one has been in my fabric collection for years.  
• White 100% Pima Cotton Broadcloth from Mood Fabrics.  This fabrication is soft to the touch and great to sew.  But it does wrinkle easy, typical cotton shirting.  This fabric is available on Mood's website.

The pattern alterations are some of my usual adjustments:  FBA plus I lowered the bust dart; and I lengthen the blouse about a few inches.

Design/Construction changes:  I did something a little different for each blouse

• White - No top-stitching except for the cuffs.  I didn't do a rolled hem.  I serged, turned and sewed the hem.  Added darts to the back.  Stitched in the ditch of the shoulder seams instead of tacking the facing to it.
• Stripe - Followed the instructions except for the hem and tacking the facing to the shoulder seams.  The collar design change for this one was due to limited amount of striped fabric.  I didn't have enough for both upper and lower collars.  So I used some of the white pima for the under collar.
• Blue - Same as the stripe blouse. No design change.

So far I've made a total of four blouses using this pattern.  Why stop now?  I can see myself using it again.  And I do recommend it to others.  It's an easy sew.  All level sewists can enjoy making this blouse.

I noticed a few areas where I could tweak the fit a little more.  But overall I'm pretty pleased with how these turned out. They are good wardrobe staples and will be in high rotation.  Perfect pairing with jeans and pull-on pants.  

My tips:

Buttonholes
Collar

My first blouse made 2016.

Side Note:  Whenever I make shirts, I include at least one white one.  You can never have too many. ;-)


Happy Sewing!
C

Fabric Mart Fabrics Sew Camp Challenge - Simplicity 8015

I've only sewed the bodice together for my Fabric Mart Fabrics Sew Camp Challenge.  I started late.  The challenge was for the month of July.  So I'll be working on my project into the first few days of August.

My challenge project is a dress for my daughter.  I shared my thoughts with her, and she agreed that it would be a nice dress for her.

My design includes a contrasting fabric that I already had.  It's a remnant from a previous client project, 2012.  Paired with the floral Fabric Mart fabric it looks like a great combination. Of course, we will see very soon. ;-)

I had to dig deep to found the matalasse piece (Fishman's Fabrics).  Some of you may remember  Ms. Paulette Bell's pastoral dress (above) that I made for her in 2012 (Vogue 8615).  I had about 3/4 yards and some smaller pieces leftover.  I thought it was enough to make a princess seam bodice and cap sleeves. So, I kept them.  Anyway, these straps were too good to throw away.

From a distance, it looks like a jacquard.   But the weave actually imitate a fine quilted texture.  Matalasse mimics the style of the hand-stitched quilting in Marseilles, France.  It's beautifully textured and elegant.

Hopefully in a few days I have the dress finished and ready to show you.  Until next time.

Happy Sewing!
C

Another Sew Camp Project - McCall 7890 - View C

I wanted to plan my projects for this SewCamp experience.  I attempted to prepare by completing all steps pre-sewing before arriving at the Carriage Corner B&B.  I selected fabric and patterns, cut the patterns out and made fit adjustments, cut and sewed some muslins before bagging everything into individual ZipLoc bags.  Sounds good, right?

But even with all the prep work, there is still a chance of something not working out.  In this case, it was more my selection of fabric.  The second problem was way too much added for the FBA.  The first fabric was a nice medium weight denim.  It was too stiff and really not the best fabric for this dress.  With regards to the FBA, I actually made a muslin before cutting into my fashion fabric.  From that I just saw a few little tweaks.  The muslin fabric was lighter and softer.  The pleats worked just fine in the muslin fabric.

Now let's fast forward to SewCamp.  I'm at the sewing machine, ready to start making this cute dress.  I put the front and back together pieces together and finished the seams hong kong seam binging style.  So at this point, I'm ready to try it on.   The front of the dress was a hot mess with fabric bulging out in the bust area. So I tried and tried to make it better.  No good.  Next, I changed the pleats to gathers.  Still, no joy.  After hours of trying to make it work, I decided to move on to something else.

The next day, I only spent a little time on the denim dress before I decided to try making it in another fabric.  I purchased a medium light weight twill at JoMar shortly after arriving in Philadelphia.  I started out with the idea of making gathers instead of pleats and reducing the FBA even more. 

In the end, I was able to complete View C of this pattern.  So after that long story, let me give you some of the typical pattern review information.  So here goes.

McCall m7890

Pattern Description: Fitted tunic and dresses have asymmetrical button-front opening with band, double yoke, slightly dropped shoulder and shaped hem with length and sleeve variations. A, B: Elasticized sleeve. D:Purchased bias tape for armhole.

Pattern Sizing:  Available in sizing 6 to 22; I used size 16 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? There was nothing confusing in the instructions or the construction of the garment.  My problems were with the fit and with the pleats.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? 

Likes:

• Asymmetrical button-front opening
• Sleeve of view C; something different.  I could use it in other garments.
• Side slits and back yoke
• Pleats.  I really wanted them to work for me.  Maybe in a lighter fabric.

Dislikes

• Pleats.  Grr..,
• The upper part of the front band.  It gapes open a bit even on the model on the envelope.  I shorten it about 1/2", but that wasn't enough.

Fabric Used: First fabric used was a denim from Mood.  The second fabric, pictured here is a medium/light weight twill that I purchased at JoMar's in Philly.  It has just a little stretch in it.  My original plan was to make a circle skirt out of it.  But oh well.  I have some other textiles that I can use for that project.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: My pattern alterations were a messy FBA, a swayback adjustment with a center back seam and to shorten the upper front band by 1", a half on each side.  With my back adjustments there is still a few wrinkles across my back.  My only design change was from pleats to gathers on the upper front.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I have a gingham that I thinking about trying.  Maybe the third version will be perfect.  And yes, I recommend it to others.  Each of us has different fit issues.  So that's something that always has to be worked out.  Some may have to work a little harder  than others to make it work.  But, it's not a difficult dress to make.

Conclusion: All was not lost.  I think I ended up with a decent dress, not perfect, but wearable.  BTW- My first attempt at making the dress didn't completely go to waste.  I gave it to Gaylen.  She has a little one (grand-daughter) that she can make something for.

That's it for now.  I do have a few more pattern reviews.  And I want to, at least, post a mini review of the first six months of 2019.

Happy Sewing!
C

About Last Week - SewCamp

Gaylen and Jay Owners' of the B&B

Some of the lovely ladies at Breakfast

SewCamp was so much fun!  I had an opportunity to see some old friends and make some new ones.  I headed for Philadelphia early Thursday morning.  Andrea picked me up at the airport.  We went to get Philly Steak and fries.  Then off to JoMar for our first fabric shopping experience of the weekend.  After that, we picked up Laquana (of course, we had to bring her a cheese steak too. Lol)

Andrea

Laquana with her sewing projects

Group after the shopping

Next stop Carriage Corner for our four day Sew Camp!  Within an hour of our arrival, we were all gathered in the sew studio selecting sewing stations and pulling out projects to sew.  On Friday after breakfast, we quickly got into the van and headed to Fabric Mart fabric.  Look at the group fabric haul.

Just a few pieces from my fabric haul.

Over the next few days, we did some serious power sewing.  Everyone enjoying the process and the company of fellow sewists.  There was all kinds of buzzing in the sew studio. We were helping fit each other, doing tutorials, snacking, and talking about the news of the day.  Gaylen and Jay are the best.  Hosting a Sew Camp is a big deal.  The preparing of the accommodations, meals, and sharing a lovely studio is a lot of work.  But Gaylen and Jay never failed to make this the most enjoyable experience.

Me with my sewing projects

On Saturday afternoon a few of us decided to take a walk to the local Quilt shop were they sold high end quilter's cotton and notions.  On the way, we stopped a fudge shop to pick up some treats.  After shopping back to Carriage Corner to continue with our sewing marathon.

Lady in the fudge shop

Fudge Shop

Carolyn kindly did photo shoots for each of us on Sunday and Monday.  Each of us have a series of photos to select from for Instagram and blog posts.  I think she took over 100 pictures of three outfits for me.  Great start for blogging my pattern and sewing project reviews.

Monday afternoon, my kind friend, Andrea, drove me and Laquana back to the airport for our flights home. I love everything about Sew Camp:  the location, the hopping, and the sewing with friends.  I'm looking forward to my next Sew Camp in 2020.

For more Sew Camp stories, check out these posts:

Carolyn, Diary of a Sewing Fantatic
Gaylen, gMarie Sews 
Andrea, Knit-Knac
Laquana, Made by Laquana 


Happy Sewing!
C

Style Maker Fabric Fall/Winter Tour

It's feeling much like fall these days.  I love the cool crisp mornings and the sunny afternoons that the Autumn season brings.  Fall also marks a new season to start a new wardrobe.  My first two fall garments are made with Style Maker Fabrics.  They have an entire store of new, beautiful textiles to start your new fall wardrobe with.

I'm new to Style Maker Fabrics.  Michelle contacted me to join the SMF Tour group and I'm glad I did.  It was a good introduction to work with her great fabric.  Through Instagram I learned about SMF and their textiles.  But had never made a purchase.  Now I will definitely use their fabrics again.

The new fall collection has so many lovely fabrics to pick from.  It was so hard for me to pick something; I wanted about 10 different fabrics at first look.  Forcing myself to select two (my choice), I focused on my color palette for fall.  Fall colors earthy; deep and vibrant colors like burnt orange, chocolate brown, firm and ever greens, and golden yellows.  These are some of my colors for fall.

I love a good print and I love sewing neoprene/scuba knit.  So, I just couldn't pass up the splattered paint rust, black, and sage scuba knit. The scuba knit was great to work with.  It has an impeccably smooth hand. The stretch is tight and great for active wear as well as fit and/or flare coordinates.  I love it.

My pattern an oldie but goodie Simplicity 1314.  I've made two other dresses using it.  So I decided to add a handpicked beaded zipper.  Luckily for me, I finished it in time to make it my annual "birthday dress".  More on pattern adjustments here. 

My second choice was a rust medium weight textured cotton cloth; soft and a dream to sew.  Amy also selected this fabric making the cutest cuffed pants.

I wanted to start by fall wardrobe sewing with a jacket/cardigan to help fight back the early morning or the night chill of the Midwestern winds.  I also wanted to make something that was special.  This fabric has a very rich color with the right and wrong sides looked the same.  So I chose a unlined jacket, Butterick 6329, view D.

This jacket is described as an unlined jacket with a snap closing.  It's relatively easy to sew and the style line is relaxed and had quite a bit of wearing ease.  I was able to skip my usual fitting adjustments only making slight changes along the side seams and adding 1/4" to the center front.  Because of the simplicity of the pattern, I decided to add something special to this piece as well.  Hong Kong finished seams was the perfect element.  This additive made the inside pop.  Every edge of the jacket sections is finished except for seam the that joins the facing to the jacket.

I really love how this jacket turned out. And I hope to make a few more possibly using the recommended medium weight moderate stretch knit fabric.  For the most part, I constructed the jacket as indicated omitting the topstitching around the front and neckline.  I did not add a snap either.  The instructions were easy and typical.  If you decide to make it, make sure you carefully mark the large circles and match them as instructed.

The sewing process was great for both projects.  I used a microtex schwertz needle, size 12. The pressing was easy and resulted in a crisp finish.  Both garments will be in high rotation this fall and winter.  I've already worn my dress on Sunday.

So in conclusion, I highly recommend that you take a look at the selection of new fall fabrics at Style Makers Fabrics.  I also recommend both patterns:  Simplicity 1314 and Butterick 6329.

Happy Sewing!
C