Caped in Sweet Grape Faux Fur! Isn't It Spring?

Yikes!

It's almost Spring. So why did I decide to make this cape? Because this sweet grape acrylic faux fur (#306542) is beautiful.

Spring is not yet sprung in the mid-west. Days are sunny about 55 degrees, while night time temperatures drop to the mid or upper 40's. I'll get at least a few wears before warmer days truly come my way. Then when fall returns, I'm ready for it. ;-)

Just as the season is changing the availability of some heavier fabrics are no longer available at Mood's online store. Maybe this lovely textured textile will return for the fall season. I used Vogue 8212 to make my new cape. It's out of print, but I've seen many RTW capes in stores.

The pattern is described as Misses' wrap, cape, and shrug: A: gathered front wrap, self-lined, self loops and covered buttons, elastic at the upper and lower edges. B: front flounce and snap closing. C: flounce and contrast ties. D: side front wrap cape has flounce with double fold bias tape, self fabric leaves and flower. I made view B, size medium.

Although it was the basic over the head shape, there are some interesting design elements. The side looks like a sleeve and the diagonal seaming across the front with flounce is eye catching. It's calls for moderate stretch fabric. The faux fur has a knit backing, but hardly any stretch in it. No fuss, no muslin.

This was a quick and easy cape to sew. It's not as opaque as it appears when holding it to the light. For protection from the cold winds, I lined it. Adding a lining super simple to do. I cut the same pattern pieces except the flounce for the lining, sewing it together the same as the cape. Then attaching it to the cape using the bag method. I like this cape and the fabric too.

Now it's time to lighten up the wardrobe a bit. ;-)

Happy Sewing!
Cennetta

Tutorial: Hand Picked Zipper with Seed Beads

A few of my followers on periscope asked me to do a tutorial on hand-picked zipper.  This is a beautiful accent to add to a special dress or skirt.

A few years ago, Susan Khalje and Rhonda Buss did a workshop in Chicago where they shared some couture and some pattern drafting techniques.  It was a great workshop and I learn quite a few things.  Susan shared some tips on how to hand-pick a zipper.  I discovered that in some of my garments I didn't quite master the process for concealing the zipper teeth.  While lunching with Rhonda on  Thursday, I told her about my plan to post a tutorial.  She further explained that if the garment has a few inches on wearing ease, it's not necessary to create overlap between the two sides or create a rise at the center of the zipper.  And that butting the sides is fine.  But on the other hand if the garment fits very close to the body, the overlap is appropriate.  So when the garment fits around the body, there is room for the overlap to relax and spread a little without showing the zipper teeth.

Today, I will provide steps for hand-picking a zipper and adding seed beads along the stitching line.
The supplies needed are listed below:

Supplies-

• fabric (garment)
• thread
• needles (I prefer the sharp thin ones)
• bees wax
• fusible interfacing or organza
• zipper
• pins
• pencil
• ruler
• seed beads
• scissors

Process-

• Apply Interfacing to edge of opening where zipper will be sewn.

• With right sides together, sew the garment up to the point where the zipper is to end.

This next step is optional.  Explanation -Typically I do not mark where to stitch.  I do free hand stitching.  You may also use the ridge in the zipper tape as a guide for your stitching line. In the illustration, I marked the locations where the stitches should be made.  (Note: some chalks may not wash out.  So carefully consider how to mark and/or stitch. Tip from Rhonda)

•  The stitches should be about 3/8" apart.  The markings are very light.

• To overlap, bring the edge of the opening even with the zipper teeth as shown above.
• Pin zipper in place.  Do this to both sides.

• Before you begin to stitch, thread a few needles, run them through some bees wax, and press the thread.  This is done to help reduce tangling.

• Stitch the zipper in place using a stab stitch.  I start at the top of the zipper.

 

• Now, add beads using the previous stitches as a placement guide.  Start adding the beads about 1" below the top of the garment.  You are literally stitching on top of the first stitches.  (I used to different types of beads for the illustrations.  You can use whatever you want.)

•   Press after finishing the zipper.

Here are a few options for bead size and shape.  I hope this is clear and helpful.

Happy Sewing!
C

Notes on a Pattern - Butterick 5605 Ms. Paulette Bell's Dress

Good afternoon everyone,

It's been ages since I did a "Notes on a Pattern".  Today's post is on a vintage pattern that I'm using for Ms. Paulette Bell's annual dress.

The illustration clearly shows the princess seam bodice with cut on sleeves, which is different from most of the vintage pattern that I've seen with cut on sleeves.  This design element makes it easy to do a full bust adjustment.    Also, noted from the diagram is that the side front and side back are gores where the bodice is attached to the sleeve.   There may be a bit of a challenge to get all side bodices peaks the same.  Making a muslin is a great way to practice inserting the side front and back.

But with careful measuring, marking and sewing it can be achieved.   Other challenge may be the back opening.  It gapped mid-back on Ms. Paulette.  I would recommend that you make a muslin before attempting to make the dress out of your nice fashion fabric.

There was no way I would skip the muslin fitting.  Even though I've made a similar dress for her a few years ago without one.  On Saturday, Ms. Paulette came by for her muslin fitting.  There are several adjustments needed.

There are:

• Lower the front neckline about 1/2".  This change is a matter of preference.

• Right under arm, slight pull - may be resolved with adding  1/2" to the front underarm section.

• Swayback adjustment 1/4" near side seam to 1/2" torwards middle of lower back.  (Note: incorrectly marked on muslin as adding 1".) 
• Decrease back opening by 1"; gapping at top of zipper.

• A little snug at outer shoulder and upper arm - add 1/8" to 1/2" along this area.

• Add 1/2" back of skirt to compensate for the swayback tuck.
• Side seam bodice, lower section add 1/8" to 1" at waist.

• Side seam skirt, upper section add 1" to 1/8" along the side.

There was no problem with the construction process.  The markings were spot on.

Stay tuned.  More later on Ms. Pauletter's dress, but after the event.

Happy Sewing!
C

Moved

Good morning everyone,

I just thought I'd write a brief post to let you know that I'm still alive and well. Last month, I closed on my new home and moved about a week later. So I'm happily settling into my new house. Unfortunately, the designated sewing studio is not yet ready for me to comfortably sew. 

Seriously, I'm having withdrawn symptoms and am anxious to spend some time at the sewing machine. Last week I started to organize my fabric and UFO's. But stopped after about an hour. Moving can surely shine a BIG light on all the "stuff" you accumulate. I have certainly amassed an enormous box of UFO's not to mention all the fabric and fabric remnants. My, my! I must get through it though.

Anyway, I'm purging. It's amazing how things so precious become unimportant. So the trash cans are filling, and I'm getting closer to making something new. Good thing is, I was able to altered several patterns and make muslins before the move. So I do have something sewing related to talk about.

Happy sewing!
Cennetta

Plush Warm Faux Fur and Burda Style Magazine Coat

It is no surprise that it is too cold to breathe outside.  This year is no different from any other year.  We can count on single digits with sub-zero windchill temperatures in January.


I am so happy that I finally made my Chocolate/Black Faux Fur coat.  It's super warm and cozy, perfect for the breathtaking arctic winds that have found their way back our fair town.  This soft faux fur has been sitting waiting for me for over a year.  I must admit, I was a little apprehensive about making my coat.  Because I wanted it to be just right.

The wait was worth it.  My coat is just right for me: the fit, color and style.  Faux fur coats and denim are on trend.  So that how I'm wearing my new coat today.  See more trend styles on my blog, here.

The pattern that I selected is from Burda Style Magazine, October 2008, View 101.  Burda's descriptions are just as sparse as the construction details.  The high collar is perfect for my long neck. The overall silhouette is a-line with the hem hitting just above my knee.  The no fuss raglan, bell 3/4 length sleeves makes sewing them super easy.

The sizes are 36(4/6) to 44(14).  I used 14 with modifications.  My coat looks similar to the photo in the magazine with the exception of the thickness of the faux fur.


Let's not talk about the instructions.  I decided not to follow them.  So I just used some basic construction techniques that I've learned over the years.


Some tips to consider if you plan to sew this coat:

•  Adjust stitch length to 3mm when sewing the faux fur
• Used a jersey machine needle, size 14
• Because of the backing of the faux fur, I decided to interface the entire coat with Pellon apparel interfacing - SF101 black shape flex fusible.  Be careful not to crush the pile.
• I did not heat press any of the faux fur seams.  I just finger pressed them.
• Used a crepe back satin for the lining.
• The same pattern pieces are used for the lining.  Be sure to trim the lining accordingly to properly fit/join front facing and the neck facing.  
• For me, the pockets are a little high and too small.  You may want to test the replacement before sewing them.
• Make sure you pick the fur out of the seams so there is no interruption in the fur.

Fit Adjustments:

•  FBA.  I know you are probably thinking why.  I think I needed one.  My first placement of the dart was too low.  So I moved it up about an inch and curved it a bit.  

• Broad shoulder adjustment on the back coat and back sleeve.

• Added two inches to the length of the coat
• Added a few inches to the length of the sleeves, but used the added length to create a deep hem.

I may or may not make this coat again.  With Burda I would probably lean towards making it again for all the work involved with tracing the pattern.  The style of the coat is exactly what I wanted.  That is my "like".  My dislikes are: tracing the darn Burda pattern and the lack of construction guidance given in the magazine.

Overall, my coat turned out very well if I may say so myself.  I did notice some incorrect placement of a few of the snaps.  That's an easy fix, which I will correct immediately.

That is all for now.

Happy Sewing!
Cennetta

Glittery Knit Jumpsuit - McCall 7099

This jumpsuit was ready to sew for over two months. Last week, I finally sat down to sew it up with hopes of wearing it to dinner. It did not make it's debut at the dinner party, but I did finish it on Monday afternoon. So it's ready for the next evening event.  This is one of about twenty UFO's I'd like to sew soon.

McCall's describes this jumpsuit as: MISSES' ROMPER AND JUMPSUITS: Loose-fitting romper and jumpsuits have raised neckline, mock wrap, gathered, blouson bodice, front band extending to back neckline, elasticized waist, and side pockets. B, C and D: tapered. Sizes are:6 to 22; I used 14 with a few modifications. My finished jumpsuit did look like the drawing and pictures.


It reminds me of styles worn in the 80's. I even went through some old patterns to find similar styles.

My likes:

• mock wrap
• dropped shoulder seams
• loose fitting top
• tapered pant leg
• Centered back facing

No problems with the instructions.  They were easy and typical.  Nothing confusing about them.

The fabric used is a shiny blue on black knit that I picked up at Joann's.  After I started working with the knit, I did notice that the recovery was not the best, but I will certainly get a few wears out of it.

Not many alterations wear needed.  I made a FBA.  Three small pleats wear made to take up the added width due to the FBA. Also, I added three inches to the length of the pants and added two inches to the length of the sleeves.

I have so many patterns to try.  Right now I don't think I'll make it again.  But I do recommend it to all level sewists.  It's easy to sew and the style can be worn by most body types.

 Happy Sewing!
C