Client Holiday Skirt - Burda 6390

Hi Everyone,

Christmas is just a few days away. With parties, celebrations, and quite a bit of sewing going on in my world, no time for blogging and very little time for Instagraming.  But I just had to post this picture of Alesa, my dear friend's daughter holiday skirt that I made two weeks ago.

Burda 6390 dress pattern is what I used to make it.  I'm not sure if this is a true pattern hack.  I simply used the skirt portion of the dress, added a lining with tulle and a waistband.  That's it!

I simply put it together like any other seven gored skirt with a zipper back and waistband.  To show off the fullness of the skirt, I added a lining that I sewed on two tiers of gathered tulle.  The tulle is between the lining and the skirt.  The front of the waistband is about 3 inches wide tapering to 1.5 inches wide in the back.

She chose this audacious, eye popping, African or Ankara print fabric that she purchased at a local store on west 95th street in the Chicago Beverly area.  This no fuss cotton fabric sewed up quickly and the finished press was nice and crisp.

Alesa received loads of compliments, and she was over-joyed with her "holiday outfit".  After her event, she reminded me that this would not be the last skirt I'd make for her. ;-)

Pattern Ready!

Happiest of Holiday!
Cennetta

Notes on a Pattern - Butterick 5605 Ms. Paulette Bell's Dress

Good afternoon everyone,

It's been ages since I did a "Notes on a Pattern".  Today's post is on a vintage pattern that I'm using for Ms. Paulette Bell's annual dress.

The illustration clearly shows the princess seam bodice with cut on sleeves, which is different from most of the vintage pattern that I've seen with cut on sleeves.  This design element makes it easy to do a full bust adjustment.    Also, noted from the diagram is that the side front and side back are gores where the bodice is attached to the sleeve.   There may be a bit of a challenge to get all side bodices peaks the same.  Making a muslin is a great way to practice inserting the side front and back.

But with careful measuring, marking and sewing it can be achieved.   Other challenge may be the back opening.  It gapped mid-back on Ms. Paulette.  I would recommend that you make a muslin before attempting to make the dress out of your nice fashion fabric.

There was no way I would skip the muslin fitting.  Even though I've made a similar dress for her a few years ago without one.  On Saturday, Ms. Paulette came by for her muslin fitting.  There are several adjustments needed.

There are:

• Lower the front neckline about 1/2".  This change is a matter of preference.

• Right under arm, slight pull - may be resolved with adding  1/2" to the front underarm section.

• Swayback adjustment 1/4" near side seam to 1/2" torwards middle of lower back.  (Note: incorrectly marked on muslin as adding 1".) 
• Decrease back opening by 1"; gapping at top of zipper.

• A little snug at outer shoulder and upper arm - add 1/8" to 1/2" along this area.

• Add 1/2" back of skirt to compensate for the swayback tuck.
• Side seam bodice, lower section add 1/8" to 1" at waist.

• Side seam skirt, upper section add 1" to 1/8" along the side.

There was no problem with the construction process.  The markings were spot on.

Stay tuned.  More later on Ms. Pauletter's dress, but after the event.

Happy Sewing!
C

Paulette Bell of the Ball in Butterick 5557

Good evening all,

It's good to finally blog.  The Haute Couture Club of Chicago fashion show was May 3rd.  I'm happy to say it was a great show.  The show was at a different venue this year:  Fountain Blue Banquet facility in Rosemont, Illinois.  In January we had to form a fashion show committee to replace the removed show chair.  So I will stop at that; the story is too long.  Anyway, today I'd like to review Paulette's pastoral annual dinner dress.  I used Butterick 5557 .

Here is my review:


Pattern Description:
MISSES' TOP AND SKIRT: Fitted, lined tops A, B have neckband, below elbow kimono sleeves and back zipper. A: sleeve and lower bands, self-fabric bow. Semi-fitted, straight, lined skirts A, B, mid-calf, have waistband and side zipper.

Pattern Sizing:
6-20 I used size 18 with lots of modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? For the most part.  The pattern was true to the line drawing and pictures on the envelope.

Were the instructions easy to follow?   There is nothing difficult or confusing about the the construction techniques or the instructions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? This was a pattern selected by Paulette.  She loves vintage and usually picks a vintage style for the pastoral annual dinner.  Paulette likes the style lines of the top, but wanted to add a inch or two to the length of it.  The skirt of most vintage patterns that I have worked with tend to be on slightly on the "A" shape.  Paulette preferred a tapered skirt. 

I thought the style was okay too.  But I probably would not select it for myself.

Fabric Used: Paulette and I made our usual trip to Fishman's Fabric near downtown Chicago.  The fabric is a red stretch shantung blend; the lining is ambiance.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  There were a lot of changes with this one.  For starters I made two muslins trying to get the fit right and to incorporate any style changes.  Even after the two muslins there were more changes after the second garment fitting.

Alterations:   This is a fitted two pieces dress.  I should have started with size 18 upper body and size 20 for the rest.
  - Decreased the back neckline at the center by 1".  It was too big at the center back neckline.  My fix was not perfect.  After the change, I noticed a few drag lines.
  - Added 2" to 4" at waist and high hip on the top.
  - Added 2" to 4" through the waist and hip areas.
  - Tapered the skirt from the below the hip to the hem.
  - Added side slit to skirt.
  - I used the longer version top and added a 2" lower band.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I probably would not sew it again as it was a client project.  I do recommend it to others.  This pattern has nice style lines.  But you should make a muslin before cutting into your fashion fabric.


Conclusion:  With a little extra work, I was able to make a beautiful two piece dress for Ms. Paulette.

Parting Shots:  This is the vintage dress made for last year's annual dinner.  Paulette was so kind to model it at the Haute Couture Club of Chicago annual fashion show on May 3rd.  She was a hit on and off the runway.  It was so funny when she said to me, "People know me."  I chuckled and replied, "Some of the members read my blog." 

Ms. Bell of the Ball in Butterick 5556

Every year I know that I’m going to make Ms. Paulette’s dress for the Pastor’s Annual Banquet. This year was no difference except I got started about two weeks later than usual and I did not help her with shopping for the fabric and notions. Ms. Paulette was on her on with the exception of a few phone calls.

Because I got a late start, I didn’t make a muslin to check the fitting. This is definitely a no, no for me. I like to confirm the fitting adjustments and design preferences before cutting into the fashion fabric. But like I said I started late having only to weeks to complete the entire project.

One good thing is I’ve sewn for Paulette for many years and know where changes are needed. The second good thing is the changes are few and not drastic: A little added here and a little removed from there. She is really not hard to fit. More often than not, she will select a vintage pattern. She likes dresses from the 40’s and 60’s. Many have details that you do not see in dresses today, like shoulder and sleeve darts or belt made in the fashion fabric.

So without further ado, here is my review of Butterick 5556.  

Pattern Description:
MISSES' DRESS AND BELT: Lined dresses A, B, mid-calf, have semi-fitted bodice and gathered, flared skirt, winged or stand-up collar, below elbow kimono sleeves, side zipper and side front pockets. B: sleeve cuffs with slit. Self-fabric belt has purchased buckle. Purchased petticoat. I drafted and made the petticoat.

Pattern Sizing:
8-22; I used between 18 and 20.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes it did. At one point I thought I had made a mistake with the waist darts. They were too long. But I look at the drawing on the envelope to see that they were as intended. So I did not lower them.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
I did not have any problems following the instructions. The skirt had eight panels. I marked each on the wrong side so I could keep track of which ones were to be gathered and to identify the front panels for the pockets.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Paulette selected this pattern. She likes everything about this dress: the full skirt, the collar, the sleeves, and the fabric belt.

Fabric Used:
A polyester I believe. The weave is similar to shantung with lengthwise stretch. She made her purchase at a local store at Roosevelt and Desplaines. I can always count on Paulette to purchase nice fabric.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Alterations:

•  Added 3 inches to the length of the skirt. 
•  Cut between size 18 and 20 along the sleeves.
•  Cut size 18 at the bust area
•  Cut size 20 at the hips. 

No design changes.
Improvisation:

• I couldn’t find the belt backing at any of my local stores and didn’t have time to order any. So I used faux leather belting to substitute for it.
• I drafted and made the petticoat. It was pretty easy. I used some cling free lining and crinolines to make it. Sorry I don’t have pictures of it.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
One of my sisters loves her dress and would like one too. I do recommend it to others. I was very pleased with the results and so was Ms. Paulette.

Conclusion: This is not a quick project. Plan to spend some time getting the gathers just right. And settle into the yards and yards of hand sewing on the skirt. Be careful not to mix up all those skirt panels. In the end, you will have a beautiful elegant dress.

 Happy Sewing!
C

Vintage Vogue 8850 - Ms. Paulette's Frock

It's been so long since I blogged anything.  But today I decided to publish this review no matter what. It is has been one thing after another.  Each time I see a small window of time to write or post about sewing or fashion, something more important gobbles it up before I can even start. Today I'm determined to restart my blogging activities.

I miss keeping up with everyone's sewing projects and posts about current fashion trends. There are only a few more weeks of school. I decided not to take a summer course, but will resume my studies in the fall. This will give me some time to sew and beef up my wardrobe. I'm excited about my comeback! ;-)

Let's get down to business. I think it was February when Ms. Paulette Bell asked me to make her annual pastoral dinner frock. This is yearly commission. My two favorites are here and here.

Vogue 8850 

Pattern Description:
MISSES' DRESS AND BELT: Dress has fitted bodice, right front drape extending into tab with button trim, left drape, panel (wrong side may show) attached at waist, loose-fitting skirt, side snap or zipper closing and belt.

Pattern Sizing:
This pattern comes in sizes 8 to 24. I did have to make some modifications which I will talk about in the alterations and design changes section of this review.


 Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, it did. This is quite an attractive dress. I love the drama that the long drape gives.  I thought the drape was one continuous pieces of fabric. Not the case. The first section is part of the right bodice, then section to drapes across the bodice is a separate part, and finally the drape from the waist down is a triangle to is joined at the under-side to form a cylinder. It's interesting how this small design and construction step creates a different affect in the movement of the drape. You don't have the ends of the two sides flouncing all over this place. It moves gracefully with the skirt of the dress. I love this design element.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions were easy to follow.  At first glance the construction of the bodice and the drape seemed difficult to manage, but once I started following the instructions, I had no problem. As a precautionary measure I left all of the stitching to form the gathers in until I was sure the fit was right for Ms. Bell.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
For me, I simply love the style of this dress. It was perfect for the occasion and Ms. Bell looked fabulous in it. The pattern cover version doesn't do justice to the design of the dress. The line drawing gives a much better view of the details in the design. I really don't have any dislikes. Nor did Ms. Bell.

Fabric Used:
Ms. Bell chose a tangerine crepe back satin, which is the first fabric recommended for the dress. It was perfect for the design. However, I hate working with it because of the "snagibility". You must be extra, extra careful when sewing this fabric. I found myself filing my nails before each sewing session. There is no need for lining and interfacing. All that is needed is fabric, zipper, thread, and patience (gathering of the drape).

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
There were a few alterations necessary to get a good fit. That's always expected. I did make a muslin, which identified all the points of change. Initially, I cut a straight size 18. The first change was the lower bodice through the hips. I adjusted the size in these areas to a size 20 to the hem of the skirt. Then the upper arm required a little more tailoring, and I reduce the sleeve cap by a 1/2 inch. The next change was at the back neckline. There was a little gapping at the base of the neck. I chose to make deeper darts (1/8"). But in retrospect, I should have done a small upper round adjustment. Finally, I installed an invisible zipper and eliminated the side facing. I did not use any hem tape or seam binding. I just did clean serging on the sleeves and skirt, then hemmed them.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I would love to make this for myself in a mint green. And yes, I do recommend it to others. This is a lovely dress.

Conclusion: This is a very attractive vintage dress that was not difficult to sew. Like most commercial patterns, you will more than likely have to make some adjustments based on your body shape.

Vogue 8190 - The Finale Prom 2012

Now it's time for the finale on Vogue 8190. The prom was last Friday; but before writing the review, I needed a breather from all the activities surrounding the event. This year I had to finish two prom dresses within a four week period because of competing activities. Just a little bit of stress. The good thing, I'm pleased with the outcome of both gowns and relieved that it's all over.

My services including making six pieces for Traci's (2nd cousin) big day. So this review will encompass some mini reviews (linked) on the accessories that I made for this prom event. Yes, this review is long, but I think the details are important to cover. Let's start with the dress. I posted a few blog entries so I would not forget the alterations and design changes. So instead of repeating all of that I will refer to those posts at the appropriate time.

Here goes.., We actually started discussing this gown early March. My first shop day was March 24th, with many to following (mostly for notions). I logged 32 hours on this project. That includes: shopping, cutting, sewing (muslins and garments), cutting mistakes, sewing mistakes and adjustments, and ripping out mistakes and adjustments. A lot of hours. Compared to Vogue 2931 this dress was a bigger challenge. Vogue rating this one (8190) average and Vogue 2931 as advanced. I think they are both advanced.

Pattern Description:

MISSES’/MISSES’ PETITE DRESS: Strapless, lined, fitted, mid-calf or floor length flared dress has front and back gathers, built-in foundation with boning, flounce variation and back zipper. A: shaped flounce (wrong side of fabric will show). B: dress and flounce contrasting overlay. C: purchased trim.  

Pattern Sizing:
8 to 18. I started with size 12, but ending with a combination of sizes 8, and 10, and 12, depending on the area of the body.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
For the most part. There were a few design changes that made the finished dress slightly different.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. I had no problems following any of them. Standard, but very time consuming.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Traci gave me a sketch of how she wanted her dress to look, I picked this pattern because it closely resembled want she had envisioned.

My likes: ruching and the flounce. It's very attractive and figure flattering. Traci, as is Dominique, is lend and shapely. Almost zero fat.

I really don't have any dislikes about this dress. Because the time consuming elements are well worth it. The outcome is splendid. The pattern design and layout are excellent.

Fabric Used:
Silk Dupioni, bemberg lining, and bridal lace from Fishman's Fabrics in Chicago.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Some of the alterations and design changes can be found here and here.

The rest are;

Lace adorned bodice - The lace was sewn together and attached to the dress bodice by hand. I used the bodice lining pattern and drafted a bodice back to create the lace overlay. The beautiful embroidered, beaded lace had small floral appliques sewn to it. I carefully removed them when they fell on the seam allowance. After the overlay was sewn together, I reattached the appliques where appropriate.

Straps - I added straps for comfort. Traci probably didn't use them. But I added them just in case. A lady has to have options. ;-)

Foundation bias tape - I made my own using the silk dupioni. I thought it would look better. And it did.

Graduated Flounce - You should make sure your fabric is wide enough to make the fabric flounce. Because the fabric was only 45" wide, I had to make the flounce (View C) shorter than the design. In this photo, you can see the front flounce is higher than the back. At the final fitting, I cut the tulle a little shorter in the front to match the curve of the fabric flounce. This was done after this photo.

Omitted the lace trim at the upper edge of the dress.

 Accessories

 Purse - I used the same purse pattern as before (many times). It's reviewed here. Details on how to enlarge on Flickr.

Garter - I've designed many. Here is a link to my tutorial on Flickr. There are tons of ideas for prom garters here.

 Stole - (sorry no pictures) But it looks like this one.


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Only if I make it for someone else. I don't think I'll need a dress like this. Then maybe I will. :-). I highly recommend it to others. If you have the body for it, this is a gorgeous dress to show it off in. Beware it's labor intensive.

All pictures are on Flickr.

Conclusion: This was a great dress to sew with excellent results. I love how it turned out. And more importantly, Traci and her mom were very pleased with it.

Prom 2012 - Do Gentlemen Wear Coral?.., M4321

          This is one of the best photos available to me. 

I usual stay away from making anything related to the gentlemen who escort the princesses to the prom.  This time I gave the nod to make the vest and bow tie for my cousin's date.

I selected McCall's 4321.  The vest has a clean sophisticated look. It's a great complement to most tuxedo jacket.  The bow tie looked simple and easy to make.  Perfect for completing the gentleman's evening attire.

In review:
Pattern Description:
Men's Lined Vests, Bow Tie and Cummerbund: Vest A and B have collar and back belt; vest B has contrast collar; vest C and D have welts, shawl collar, front button closure, adjustable back neck button closure and back elastic with clip; bow tie E has two sections and back clasp; cummerbund F has pleated front, back lining and back elastic with clasp.

Pattern Sizing:
Small - XX-Large; I used size medium with modifications. Views A and E
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.  Except for the omission of the collar on the vest.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
A piece of cake with the exception of stitching the back (3) and stopping at the circle. The circle was about two inches from the edge. I didn't get that.  So I stop about 5/8" from the bottom of the edge of the center back seam.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the fact that the design was clean and would not take away from the style or design of the jacket. I didn't know what style of tux the young man would wear. So this pattern was simple enough to complement most styles. And it sewed up quickly. This is the first time I've sewn a bow tie. No pain there either.

Fabric Used:
silk dupioni and bemberg lining.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
View A - Vest. At first I thought I needed to do a prominent shoulder blade (PSB) adjustment. But the gaping at the armholes didn't quite match with the PSB adjustment. So I looked through my Palmer/Pletsch fit book for the correct solution. And ended up doing a round back adjustment. Additionally, I needed to trim about a 1/4 inch from the side seams, and I omitted the collar. View E - Bow Tie. I searched at a few stores trying to find the hook, eye and slide for it. Finally, I went to Vogue (Roosevelt Rd). They only had 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4". The tie was about 1" wide. So I had to trim it to make it fit through the closures.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I will sew both again. And yes I do recommend this pattern to others.

All photos on the vest and bow tie are here.
 
Conclusion: This was an easy pattern to sew. The pieces went together with no problem. The clean look of the vest is a great complement to evening attire. The bow tie literally took less than an hour to sew.

Brandon and Dominique Go To The Prom 2012 - Vogue 2931 & McCall 3033

Friday was the big day for my niece, Dominique and Brandon. I arrived at my sisters minutes before the couple left for the prom. There was lots of excitement at the house. We were all gathered to see the lovely couple off to the prom. First a few a lot of pictures, then the reviews:

Vogue 2931 Pattern Description:
MISSES’ DRESS: Fitted, lined dress has princess seams with bow and front bra, back invisible zipper closing and neck straps. Built-in foundation with boning, hook and eye tape closing. Floor length.
Pattern Sizing:
6 to 22; I started with a size 10; but ended up using size 6 for the top and 8 from the hips down.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes it did. This pattern makes a lovely prom dress.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Simple. At first I thought the bow was going to give me a "slight headache", but no. The construction of it was no problem at all. The key is to follow every step. The rest of the instructions were pretty standard.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
My niece picked a great pattern for starters. The over-sized bow and fish tail are the speakers. And boy do say speak elegance. You don't have to add rhinestones or crystals to come up with a beautiful dress. I enjoyed making it. There are a few dislikes, and they are related to some of the construction and my own personal taste (After thoughts are making the dress.) Step 27 instruction you to sew in bra cups. I think she could have done without them. The shaping around the bust area was a little bulky. No one else noticed I noticed in the fitting, but decided not to remove them. I didn't like that the founding was all lining fabric. In hind sight, it would have been better if the outer portion had been the dutchess satin. It seemed to round up over the top of the dress. And it was snug around her upper body. And finally, for years I have hated the method used by pattern companies for creating the French tack. This time I came up with a new way to get it done quickly. I used DMS floss and a tiny crochet needle to make the tacks. At the ends I left a three tail. So that I could easily thread a needle to attached the tacks between the lining and the dress.
Fabric Used:
Dutchess satin and poly lining from Fishman's Fabric in Chicago.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Dominique was easy to fit. No serious alterations. I made the halter straps shorter and shorten the dress by an inch or so. The other fitting adjustments were made as I sewed. The princess seams made that easy. No design changes.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I probably won't sew this again. But do recommend it to others.
Conclusion: The is a great prom dress pattern that doesn't require a lot of fussy trims, rhinestones and crystals. It's speaks elegance all by itself. The indicated sewing level is advanced, but I think with careful sewing intermediate sewers could also make this dress. As part of the prom dress assemble, I made a shrug/jacket, garter, and purse for my niece. All made from the same fabric as the dress.

McCalls 3033 Pattern Description:
MISSES’ EVENING COVER-UPS: Capelet A and B are unlined with optional trim detail; shrug C is self lined has ruffle detail; shrug D is unlined has set-in sleeves; capelet E and F are lined; capelet E has trim detail.
Pattern Sizing:
X-Small to Large. I made a Small
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
The silhouette was the same. I used the pattern for View D to make a lined jacket. So my rendition of the shrug/jacket is different.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
I really didn't look at them until I started writing this review. At glance, they appear to be easy. My method is much like the instruction for views C and D.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I thought is was a perfect "chill chaser". We are have cool days in Chicago. So it's nice to have a jacket or capelet as part of the prom outfit. No dislike for this easy shrug.
Fabric Used:
Dutchess satin and poly lining from Fishman's Fabric in Chicago.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
No alterations. The design changes are: - I cut lining as well as the fashion fabric for the three pattern pieces. Sew each together the combined them using a similar method as described for view C.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes and yes. This is a great pattern to have in your collection. Especially, if you sew prom dresses. All of the views are appropriate for gowns and evening attire.
Conclusion: This is a easy pattern to sew and a great complement to evening wear. I highly recommend it.

All photos can be viewed on Flickr.

Vogue 8190, The Second Fitting - Part III

Yesterday was the second fitting of Traci's prom dress.  Boy, I tell you the ruching takes about two hours to complete.  And I've done it twice for this dress.  The good thing about it is, the effort is well worth it.  The dress is coming along nicely and I hope to have it finished by Monday.  I hope.., Lol

This lace will go across the bodice of the dress.  Sorry the photo is dark.  This lace is gorgeous.

The purse and the garter are done.  I used the McCall 4679-D (purse) again; just graded it up and added some embellishment.  The garter, I designed.  Pretty easy.

Stay Tuned; there is more to come.

C