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Wednesday, August 5, 2015

Notes on a Pattern - Vogue 1395


 
Vogue 1395 is an easy summer dress designed by Rebecca Taylor. It was published in 2014 and since that time several sewing bloggers have made it. To name a few: Lauren has made it three times and Andrea made it a few months ago. Based on the figure flattery diagram, this is not the best style for my body type. I bought it anyway, determined to make it work for me.


I like:
  • the gathering across the back and the tie in the front
  • the "V" neck
  • the appearance of a very comfortable summer dress
 My Concerns:
  • the dropped back neckline that could make my back appear to be even wider
  • the affect of the draping formed by the back over my sway back
  • making an appropriate FBA without a bust dart
Selecting a fabric with the right amount of drape could disspell my concern about the "broader back" appearance of the neckline.  But the FBA was still questionable.



I found this lovely Anna Sui silk voile and lined it with a fine silk/cotton voile.  Both fabrics are from Mood fabrics. 


Again Andrea to the rescue on the FBA.  She recommended this FBA to resolve the issue.  I've been similar FBA's in the past, but did not think of it for this dress.  To deal with the excess fabric at the waist, I lightly gathered it to match the width of the skirt.  The gathering is totally unnoticeable once the elastic is inserted.

Other Changes:
  • Small tuck to reduce the gaping neckline, front bodice.
  • Lengthen the skirt about two inches.
  • Tapered the the skirt from the mid hip to the hem and balanced out the hemline.
  • Underlined the bodice with silk voile.  The Ana Sui silk is sheer.
  • Added two layers on the silk voile to the skirt to reduce transparency.
Should have:
  • Raised the lower armhole by an inch.  Too much underarm exposure.   
  • Made the tie a little longer.
More later this week on my version of the Rebecca Taylor summer dress.




 

13 comments:

  1. Remember how I mentioned your FBAs on your last post? Yeah, this dress is next on my list so excellent timing. I can't wait to see how yours turns out. I have a floral print crepe de chine for mine. Pink roses on a gray background.

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    1. Sounds pretty. I hope this illustrationis helpful.

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  2. I can't wait to see your finished dress, very interested. I have to do a FBA on EVERY pattern make. I usually use the pivot and slide method from Nancy Zieman's Fitting Finesse for the FBA, in place of the cut and spread type. See me @ www.sewplus.blogspot.com

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    Replies
    1. Bonnie, I will certainly be watching you. I sometimes combine the two methods. But I mostly use the slash and spread.

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  3. Hope you model this - I've had the pattern since it came out, and admit I'm wary. You've used such beautiful fabrics... more pics please!

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    Replies
    1. I will post pictures of me wearing the dress soon. I was skeptical too. But it worked out.

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  4. Very interesting FBA! Why can you not do a 'regular' one on this bodice? It looks like I'm going to have to join the FBA club :( so I'm learning through bloggers like you!

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    1. This FBA eliminates the bust dart. I didn't think it would be appropriate for this style of dress. This adjustment works for my body type. Make sure you test it using muslin before cutting into your fashion fabric. Good luck with your fitting.

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  5. Looks like it's going to be a lovely dress. Your colors are pretty. I like the color wheel.

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    1. Thanks, dear friend. You helped push me to try this adjustment and make the dress. Now I'm certain to make it again.

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  6. I agree - I think the FBA adjustment you are doing will definitely work with this dress. I know you will do a superb job as usual. I look forward to seeing your finished creation.

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  7. Do you have any leftover fabric? If I find that the armholes are too low, I make a shield and sew it inside the armhole to cover my bra. Just a 1/2 circle of fabric, hemmed on the straight edge. You will have to try the dress on and pin it in place. This has saved many outfits and I have also used it in RTW. I don't want the world to be able to see inside my clothes!

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  8. Hmmm. This dress reminds me of something I made back in the day. Guess it's true what they say ... 'everything old is new again.' Glad I saved all of my old patterns. Think I'll give this one another turn.

    Thank you for sharing!!!

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