I'm simply loving Moods stretch cotton sateen fabrics. The selection includes gorgeous silky smooth solids to audacious bright prints. The coloration is flawless. These beauties are versatile and are great for summer dresses, pants, skirts and jackets. I recently ordered five different yardages to perk up my spring/summer wardrobe.
By now it's clear that I love a great bold print. For my jacket, I used beige/brown python printed stretch cotton sateen. I couldn't pass it up. Wink, wink. The warm beige solid sateen was perfect for my pants. The online photo does not do this buttery fabric justice. It almost looks off white in the photo. It actually has a soft yellow under tone, which is a great hue against my skin.
This is the first time I used Butterick 6169, jacket and Burda 6879 pants, view B. There are several things about both I'd liked to point out to fellow sewists who are thinking about trying them. Let me begin the reviewing process with Butterick 6169.
It is described as semi-fitted lined jacket with shoulder pads, seam detail, welt pockets, exposed zipper and two piece sleeves. The sizes are from 6 to 22.
This moto style jacket is very popular. I have a few similar patterns, but I chose this collarless version to test the construction process. I agree with the average pattern rating. The construction process was not difficult, but did requires a little more time to install the zipper. There was an error in the instruction #5. It stated .., pin remaining zipper tape (face down)..,. It should be face up as the other zipper tape instruction #3 should be installed face down.
After I installed the zipper, I tested zipping it up and down. It kept getting stuck. So after I constructed the jacket, I understitched both sides. This stopped the facing from getting caught in the path of the zipper pull. The understitching does show, but is not unattractive.
When I was done, my jacket did look like the drawing. I had to make several adjustments based on my body shape. I also made a few other changes, my preference. Changes include:
- Full bust adjustment
- Sway back adjustment adding the amount of the tuck to the hem of the back pattern pieces
- Decreased the top of the sleeve by 1/4" to 1/2"
- I interfaced all four pieces of pattern 1 with a lighter weight interfacing. This works better for me. It keeps the sizing and flexibility of all four pieces the same. It's easier to work with in my opinion.
- The pocket bag falls below the hem. So I trimmed off some of the seam allowance to avoid bunching up the pocket between the jacket and the lining. I posted this on Facebook a few days ago and Kenneth King stated to allow the pocket to sit in the jump pleat at the hem of the lining. Next time.
- I only ordered two yards of the python sateen. So I ended up "piece milling" the front facing. This is something my grandmother shared during one of our many conversations about sewing years ago. It does not look too bad if I must say so myself.
- Added an inch to the length of the sleeves.
Now for the pants. Burda 6879 offers some interests to the pants leg and the back yoke. See my latest installment of "Notes on a Pattern" .
These pants have a slim pant leg with over-lay option. Top open front pockets, three piece back yoke and belt loops. The sizing is from 8 to 18. It is recommended that you use stretch fabrics: cottons, gabardine, lightweight wools and imitation leather for the contrasting fabric.
My pants did look like the drawing. The instructions easy; nothing difficult or confusing. My likes are noted in my Notes on a Pattern post. No dislikes. I really like this pants pattern and will definitely use it again.
With all pant patterns I need to make a few changes starting with lengthening them at least 3 inches. For these I added about a 1/2 inch to the side seam allowance. I was afraid the sateen did not have enough stretch in it. I made a small crotch adjustment for the front pant and slightly changed the curve of the crotch on the back pant. For the back yoke I increased the width of the seam allowance for a closer fit at the waist.
I like these pants and will use the yoke and pocket for other pants. And I recommend the pattern to others. You may need to tweak the pattern a bit as they fit close from the waist to the knee.
The overall outfit is a success. I love the stretch cotton sateen offerings at Mood Fabrics. So you will see a few more garments sewn using them. I recommend the sateen. There is a sizable online selection to choose from. The colors are vibrant and the hand is smooth and soft. No fussing with sewing or pressing.
Try them. That's all for now.