Monday, June 29, 2020

Bold New Lime Green Jacket with McCall 5668 - Pattern Review




Happy Monday everyone,

Today, I'm excited to talk about my bold lime green jacket!  This jacket is the first piece in my green wardrobe capsule that I'm making this summer.  I've been purchasing a variety of green textiles for a few years now.  Green is a good color for me.  So far, I've included two dresses and a top and pants set (UFO's) as part of the capsule.  More on the capsule plan in the weeks to follow.


The pattern, M5668, is one of the Sewing with Nancy patterns designed for people with limited time to sew.  I bought it because I liked the style of the jacket. Also, I selected this as the summer/fall project for one of my sewing students.  This will be the first jacket for her.  So, I wanted to make it a few times before she started on her project.  So expect to see another version of this jacket.  

The pattern is described:  Princess seamed jackets have fold-back wing collar, slits at side seams, three-quarter length lined sleeves with slits and shoulder pads. B: Self-belt with purchased buckle and optional sew-on or iron-on jewels on collar.  

Published in 2008, but it is still available.  It comes in sizes 8 to 20.  I used size 16 with modifications.

My jacket looks pretty much like the drawing on the envelope.  I wanted long sleeve. So I adjusted the length.

The instructions were easy to follow, and also included several tips on cutting, pressing, and interfacing.  The guide sheet includes step-by-step stop and go sewing tips to help sewists maximize their sewing time by breaking the process into 10, 20 and 30 minutes sewing intervals.  I think this is a great jacket pattern for beginners. 

There is a lot to like about this jacket style wise:  the collar and the dart at the roll line; the princess seams helps make fit easier; the slit at the side; and the belted waist to create a more defined waistline.  At least, these are my likes.   I don't have any real dislikes.





The fabric that I selected is from Mood.  It is described as Lime Green Stretch Cotton Crepe.  Sorry it is out of stock.  The texture of it reminds me of a stretch cotton pique.  It pressing well; but like most cottons, it does wrinkle. 

I made several changes:  pattern adjustments, style changes and construction adjustments. BTW- I didn't make a muslin this time. 

  • FBA - l inch initially.  Then during construction I reduced the height of the apex.  The change was transferred to the pattern after I made the change to the jacket.  Below are the initial adjustment to the side front and the final adjustment.

  • Prominent shoulder blade adjustments.  This was a very small adjustment.  I probably could have skipped it as the back of the jacket was wide enough.
  • The length of the shoulder seam was too long.  I reduced the length by 1/2 inch.
  • Swayback adjustment. Same as for other princess seam garments.
  • Sleeve length.  I wanted a long sleeve jacket instead of a 3/4 sleeve.  Next time, I will taper the sleeve a bit.  The sleeves on this jacket are wide.
  • No lining in the sleeve.  I decided to skip that.
  • For the slits.  I didn't follow the instruction #40.  I like mitered corners.

  • I did not add any jewels to the collar.  The color of this jacket is the speaker. 
  • Top-stitching.  I added top-stitching to the belt and the front and collar of the jacket.  It looks better with it.






  • Initially, I was going to go without buttons.  I even started the photo shoot without them pinning the front to keep it closed.  But after a few photos, I decided to add three buttonholes.  Luckily, I bought some earlier.  I decided on only three buttons instead of four because the belt holds the rest of the front in place.

I know these are a lot of changes for a simple jacket pattern.  But they made it better for me.  Now, my next version, will include most of the above changes, plus a little more tweaking.  I want to taper the sleeves and add a little length to the hem of the jacket.  I may or may not line the sleeve.

This was a great basic jacket for all level sewists.  I think there are more design options to explore:  completely lining the jacket, lengthening it,  and adding pockets. 

I'm pleased with how this one turned out.  The next one will be navy. So, if you have the pattern, allow me encourage you to try it.  Style it as you like or use it as a sloper/basic jacket pattern. 

Stay tune.  More to come on my green capsule.

Parting Shot: My little third cousin, London, wearing her Cennetta made Minnie Mouse mask.














34 comments:

  1. Wow. That green looks great on you. I'm interested in how you did prominent shoulder blade adjustment. Next time could you include pics? Your altered pattern photos are always so helpful, as I need to make many of the same adjustments.

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    1. Thanks, Karey. I will post a illustration next time. But this is an adjustment that I do all the time. There are several examples posted on my blog.

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  2. Your jacket is beautiful, I love the color; looking forward to seeing the other items in your green wardrobe capsule. Since I have this pattern and you said a beginner could make it. I think I will try it!!

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    1. Thank you so much. Yes, it is easy. Try it. Make a muslin first.

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  3. I love the jacket, the color, and it looks fantastic with the white pants!

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    1. Thank you, Kathy. The pants were made three years ago with Burda 6879. Thanks again.

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  4. I love the jacket! Thanks for sharing your fitting processes.

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  5. You are totally owning those white pants! They look very good on you as well as the jacket!

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    1. Thanks, Terry. The pants were made awhile ago, Burda 6879

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  6. I'm inspired to go find this pattern and dig some fabric out of my stash. Love your color.

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    1. Thank you, Kathy. I'm glad you're inspired to make this jacket.

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  7. Love this jacket - you look fantastic! Thanks for the inspiration, as I do have this pattern.

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  8. Very Pretty and a Beautiful color on you also!

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  9. This is gorgeous! I love the lime green. The belt with the rings fastening at the side is a great feature.

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    1. Thank you, Ann. The belt actually is supposed to be in the center front. But that would cause a problem for sitting. So I moved it to the side. Thanks again.

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  10. This lime color lights you up so well. The jacket is a good fit with your alterations and those pants fit perfect.

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    1. Thanks, Connie. I made the pants awhile ago. They are one of my TNT pants, Burda 6879.

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  11. Your little cousin is adorable! Your jacket is beautiful! I love the fit and that color sings. So nice.

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    1. Thank you and thank you, Kesha. I love this color.

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  12. I agree with Karey, that color looks fantastic on you and all your adjustments on this relatively simple pattern show how much a bit of fitting can really elevate the final result. I like that textured fabric, gives more visual interest.

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    1. Thank you so much, Beth. I think this pattern can be used over and over again adding pockets, lengthen the jacket, etc. Thanks again, Beth.

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  13. Beautiful jacket!! How did you do the seatback adjustment on the back with princess seams.

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  14. Thanks, Lynne. Sorry, I'm not sure what you mean about seatback adjustment. Are you talking about the sway back adjustment? If so, sorry I didn't post that illustration. However, if you search my blog for sway back adjustment, use the search box on the right, there are multiple examples of the sway back adjustment. Thank you again.

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  15. Yes, I did mean swayback. Thanks so much, I will do the search!!

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  16. I have this pattern and I love your jacket. The color is amazing! I also like that you added buttons. I would want to do that also. How did you decide on button placement because I don't believe the pattern addresses buttons? Thanks.

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    1. Thank you, LindaC. I always start at the fullest part of my bust for button placement, no matter what the pattern says. From there I determine the distance between each button according to the button size and type of garment.

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  17. This jacket is just divine. The fit and shape of the upper part of the jacket is just so flattering and so perfect on your shape.Doesn't get any better. This definitely belongs in the TNT pile. And that color!!! oh,my. It is beautiful against your skin. Gorgeous, Cenetta, gorgeous!

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  18. you are a very stylish lady, and really carry off the lovely jacket beautifully!

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