Summertime Fun Dress in Ankara Fabric - Simplicity S8594

Today is the last day of June and it is 98 degrees HOT!  Great time to wear my latest creation, using a red and black, Ankara fabric that I purchased at the Textile Warehouse. I began sewing this dress last Thursday and finished it on Sunday.  

My photographer, DD, was available to take a few pictures of me wearing it this afternoon.   The sun was high and bright.  The heat was on. Lol

This will be a short and sweet review as I don't have pictures of the pattern alterations.  Sorry.  If you check out many of my previous princess fit adjustment makes, you'll get a good idea of the changes I had to make for this pattern. 

Pattern Description:  Misses and Petites with bodice and skirt variations.  The bodice options include a crewneck with slit or a halter, and the skirt can be made straight or flared with pockets.  I made View C with modifications, size 14 graded up. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, it did.  Of course, I lengthen the skirt and made a few other changes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Sorry, I really didn't read the instructions.  I've made this style dress many, many times before.  At a glance, I guess they were typical.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the halter style of the dress.  And I thought it would be a great style for the fabric that I selected.

Fabric Used: I purchased this Ankara fabric from the Textile Warehouse in Chicago on 21st Street.  They have a variety of colors and prints for the reasonable price of about $6.00 per yard.  It is 100 percent cotton.  It also washes and presses very well.  That's something I always appreciate with natural fibers.  I love the print and the vibrant red and black colors.  

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I made a ton of changes.

• FBA and graded the pattern up.  When I purchased this pattern, the largest size grouping available at the store was size 14. So, I made it work for me.
• I shortened the straps by 2 inches, much too long for me.
• NOTE:  I forgot to make a sway back adjustment.  Not too bad though.  If I use this bodice again, I'll be sure to do it to remove the excess fabric at the lower back.
• Lengthen the skirt.  Also, I barely had enough fabric for my desired length.  On a few of the lower corners of the skirt, I had to "piece" the corners together.  See picture below to see an example.  You can hardly tell. wink, wink.
• I installed an invisible zipper instead of a regular one, only because I didn't have one in my stash, and I refuse to buy another one. 

Observation:  The bodice is a little low at the underarm.  I'd would bring it up about 1.5 inches for a better fit and look.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes and yes.  I would consider making it again.  This view, view C, which I like the most.  Also, I recommend it to others.  It's a great little summer dress that is not difficult to make.

Conclusion: I am pleased with how this dress turned out.  The fit is almost perfect. and I really like the combination of the fabric and style.  Great little summer dress that beginners and experienced sewists could make with no problem.

Happy Sewing!

C

McCall's M8115 - Something New

This month, so far, I've made four new tops.  I'm in "need" of some new ones. Lol.  So I decided to try McCall M8115.  This is one of the newer patterns that also has a name, Sierra.  

The pattern is designed for woven fabrics.  But I decided to used a knit that I purchased at JoAnn's a few months ago.  I made this my wearable muslin.  This top helps me with fit adjustments for my woven fabric version. 

McCall's description is:  Pull-over dolman faux wrap top with hem variations.   It's available in sizes XS to XL.   I sewed View C using between sizes medium and large with a few other modifications.

My version looks similar to the photo and drawing.  The difference is I used a knit and the FBA resulted in a few gathers below the bust.  

The instructions were easy and the top went together with no problems.  I was able to sew it up in a few hours.

I like few of the design elements:

• faux wrap - flattering on my figure type
• flared lower bodice - also flattering on my figure type
• Dolman sleeves

Nothing to dislike.

I made a few of my usual fit adjustments:

• Sway back tuck, added length of tuck to the lower back to balance the hem.
• FBA - Slashed and spread, soft gather of the lower edge of upper front bodice
• Lengthen facing accordingly.

Now, I need to decide on a woven fabric for the second version. I do recommend this pattern to other sewists, all levels.

BTW - I didn't find any reviews on Pattern Review, and only a few people posted their versions on Instagram.  I guess this pattern is not a favorite or sewists haven't gotten around to making it yet.  Anyway, I think it is worth a try.  

More to come soon.  Happy Sewing, my friends!

C

Notes on a Pattern - McCall M7254 Sweater Cardigan

Sunday afternoon I was sitting in my sewing room thinking about what to make next.  I was really leaning toward cutting out a new project.  While sitting there, I thought about the great month of sewing I just had.   All in all I was feeling pretty good about my sewing success thus far.

So, I got up and began to look through my bag of projects to sew in 2019.    But before I could decide on what next, my thoughts turned to the box of UFO's that I need to address.  I asked myself new project or finish something already cut out?  This time I chose to go with the already cut out.

Surprisingly, I couldn't remember why I put this one aside other than the season changed before I finished it.  Anyway, I'd like to share some of the details on the pattern and the fit adjustments that I had to make it "my size".

This pattern is described as:  Unlined cardigans are close-fitting. A, and armholes B, D: Narrow hem. B: Contrast panels. D: Purchased toggle closing and sleeveless. B, C, D, E: Self-lined front (extends into shawl collar variations) and back peplum. A, C, E: Stitched hem on sleeves. Note: No provisions provided for above waist adjustment.

It's available in Multi-size groups (XS, S, M) and (L, XL, XXL).  I used medium with modifications.  On the McCall website, the sizing is indicated as 4- 22.

The instructions were typical.  Nothing confusing in them. Before cutting my cardigan/jacket, I made my usual pattern adjustments starting with the FBA on the side front.  Then adjusting the front to ensure a smooth joining of the two.  Lastly, I made a swayback adjustment with a center back seam.

The cardigan/jacket went together with no problems.  In the bust area I eased in more of the excess at the curve to allow for enough wearing ease across the bust.

My fabric is a quilted coating from Mood Fabrics and black knit coating remnant from this coat project.  I love the combination of the two.  It makes my cardigan/jacket more structured.

I like this pattern for the collar, front, and peplum look.  The sleeve are very narrow, especially below the elbow.  So if you're planning to make this, make sure you measure the circumference of the sleeve to ensure you have enough room.

My jacket is almost finished.  I decided to add a lining.  So once that's done, the jacket will be completed.

It's possible that I will make it again.  And I do recommend it to sewists.

Happy Sewing!
C

McCall's Flounce Top Is Not The Top For Me - M7687

I so wanted this top to work for me.  But what was I thinking?  The volume of this top was all wrong for me.  My bad!

My goal of posting this review is to get all of my projects posted before the end of this year: good or bad; success or failure; in my closet or not.  This one falls in the category of failure to compliment my figure.  I started this project way back in June with a muslin minus the flounce. I completely worked out the fit and style issues.  So I thought.

As far as the sewing review is concern, making the top was a success.  I was able to achieve a good fit (I'll try a different view later.). The sewing process was not difficult and the instructions were typical, but easy to follow.

Just to be consistent with other reviews, let me include a few more points about the sewing experience process:

Pattern description and size:   Fitted tops have front and back princess seams, back button closure, and sleeve variations.  Sizes 6 to 22.  I started with size 16 with modifications.

My likes and dislikes:  First my likes; the sleeve variations and the flounce version.  My dislike:  back button closure.

Fabric:  This cotton voile came from Mood Fabrics.  It's a beautiful fabric to work with.  I'd hoped to post this project on the Mood Sewing Network; but because I wasn't all together happy with it, I chose not to.

Changes and alterations:  After making the FBA, I ended up with a lot of unwanted fabric below the bust area.  This always happens and I always forget to just remove it before I make the muslin.  It the same every time.  With this top, I noticed it was also a little roomy in the neck and shoulder areas.  But once I tweaked the muslin and made the changes to the tissue pattern, it was good to make.  Not to forget, I also did a prominent shoulder blade adjustment with a swayback tuck at the waistline.  I added a short sleeves.

Final notes:  The sewing process was fine.  I just made the wrong view for me.  I will donate the top to someone who likes it.  The back button closure is not my favorite detail, but I give it at least one more try.

Parting Shots:  Me wearing the top with another of my less favorable projects from the summer.  I'll review McCall 7726 soon.  In the meantime, make it a great day. 

I used the remnant to make seam binding for my Butterick 6329 jacket/cardigan.

Navy, Red and White Crane Print Cotton Voile - Vogue 1247 Top

Cotton Voile is light weight and the perfect fabric to wear in the summer.  I purchased a few cotton voile to beef up my summer "easy wear" tops collection.  Today's review is on this Navy, Red, and White Crane Print Cotton Voile.  It's light weight and airy, easy to care for, and pretty.  It's available in three colorways.  Simply lovely and I had to have it.

In my previous post, I gave some details on the sewing process.  I used Vogue 1247, which is perfect for this top.  Those details are here.

On the sewing table now, is a shirt for my DD using this very same fabric.

I wanted to include a few pictures of the inside job of this top.  There are all french seams; no serging.

Happy Sewing!
C

Simple Khaki Skirt - Olive Organic Cotton Twill and McCall 7392

I just wanted a simple Khaki skirt.  One I could wear with a light airy shirt (My shirt review is posted here.) on sunny days.  Mood has a huge inventory of organic twill, from hibiscus pink to sweet potato orange.  A wonderful selection to choose from.  I would like to buy them all.  But I picked this Olive Organic Cotton Twill for my khaki skirt.  The twill weave is tightly woven and sturdy.  I love the sheen and luster of the fabric.  The color is vibrant and the hand crisp.  Like other natural fiber, it presses well.

McCall 7392 was the perfect pattern for my project.  I made view C with the back pockets of view B.  I used size 14 with a few minor tweaks made during the sewing process.  The description is  semi-fitted skirt with front band and side-front and side back seams; top stitching, back pockets, and side front pockets; waistband, carriers, and stitched hem.  I used buttons instead of snaps.

I really like the style, length, and the pocket treatment.  I always enjoy sewing the top stitching of twill garments.  And the front band was a change from the normal back or side zipper.  For an added special touch, I Hong Kong finished the inside of the waistband.

The instruction easy; nothing confusing.  In fact, I only skimmed through them.


I really like this skirt.  I could see myself making the long version for fall.  I do recommend it.  The style line are good and give the sewist/designer more easy fit options.  It's great for a khaki skirt.

Parting Shot:  Pond at Verteran's Park.

Happy Sewing!
C

Notes on a Pattern - McCall 7753

Hi everyone,

This is another installment of Notes on a Pattern.  I hope these notes are helpful.  One thing I'd like to point out "again" is that I understand that we all are different shapes and sizes.  With that understanding, I also know that there are ladies that have a similar silhouette as I do.  The thing that motivates me to post my pattern adjustments is it may help someone with their own fit adjustments like so many other sewists have helped me.  Anyway..,

We are three weeks into summer, and it is hot and sticky in the mid-west.  And before we know it, it will be fall again.  So I'm trying to get as much summer sewing done as possible.  For the most part, I'm concentrating my efforts on separates: skirts, tops, and pants.  Of course, I will include a few dresses too. ;-)

Right now, I'm working on fitting McCall 7753 (among other things).  At first I thought I'd take a pass on this one.  Simply because it does not have princess seams, which would make it easier for me to do the FBA.  I can count on having to do some form of FBA for any upper body garment.  Initially, I got tired just thinking about what the possible fitting changes would be.  But about two weeks ago, I decided it won't be too bad.  So I purchased the pattern at a June JoAnn's pattern sale.

I could see myself wearing views A and B.

Looking at the front and back pattern pieces first, I made on the front a FBA.  I'm always skeptical about huge bust darts.  I hate that weird dimpling affect.  One option is to make two bust darts on each side, and the other options is to do the "Y" technique that extends the spread into the upper chest area.  Doing the later produces a smaller bust dart in my opinion.  After I made the FBA on both sides I moved the darts down about an inch and rotated them.  This adjustment created a lot of width across the lower bodice that I don't need.  So finally, I added waist darts.

For the back, I made a prominent shoulder blade adjustment.  To keep the back pattern balanced added the same width on the right side.  For the left side, I'll add a small shoulder dart and for the left side I'll ease in the access as needed.  Finally, I added waist darts.

Here are the pattern front and back after the adjustments.  Plus you can see markings indicating that I need to raise the top edge of the front about an inch.

The back will not have a horizontal seam.  I was running out of muslin.

Next Step - Make a Muslin

I sewed the muslin together.  As I suspected, there is slight gapping in the neckline, which can be eased.  I need to move the front waist darts over towards the center a bit.  And raise the armhole area of the left side.  I think these additional adjustments will complete the necessary changes for the front and back.

Now, I can make the adjustments on the front and back facings; then check the fit of the collar to make sure it's falls at the appropriate place on the neckline.  The construction is not difficult or confusing.  So, after these last few tweaks, I'll be ready to cut into my fashion fabric.

Happy Sewing!

C