Notes on a Pattern - McCall M7929

Today's "Notes on a Pattern" is for McCall M7929.  

I couldn't skip this step in the fit process.  I wanted to be sure about the fit before I cut into my fashion fabric.  Luckily, the changes that I initially made to the tissue pattern were very close to what is needed to make this top work for me.  

In these notes, my main focus was the fitting the front bodice.  My muslin is a combination of view B and D.  It helps me to see how it all comes together and how it will look on me.

Below are the tissue pattern changes.  Here I made a full bust adjustment (FBA).

For the bodice back, I made swayback adjustment and I adjusted the back pattern for a zipper closure instead of a button closure.  Please forgive the pencils and pens.  I used them to hold the pattern pieces in place.  On both front and back I raised the neckline a little.  I hate how low pattern fall on me.

Now, to look at the outcome of my changes.  For the FBA, the bottom edge of the cup is now longer than  the midriff.  To reduce length,  the excess needed to be removed.  So on one side I made a dart and the other I ease in the excess.  I liked to dart better.  So, in my fashion fabric I will make a dart at the lower section of the cup.  

The back is very good with this muslin.  So I don't think I need to make any more substantial changes.  Maybe a little tweaking here and there.

The next is to determine whether to make the top or add a skirt to the top for a dress.  Stay tuned.

Happy Sewing!

C

Many Sewing Projects All At Once

Good morning Sewing Friends,

I wanted to post a short update on the many projects that I am currently working on.  During the past few months, most of my sewing time has been on pattern fit adjustments and making muslins to check the fit to make sure it's good.  Often I do several fit adjustments at the same time.  Then once everything is good, I move to the next step of making the actual garments.

Today, I'm posting a few of the muslins that I've completed.  My hope is to post a "Note on a Pattern" and make the garment.  So, here is a preview of some of my upcoming projects.  

McCall M7978 - Blouse

Butterick B6915

Simplicity S9783

Multi-Tasking - Sewing Related Activities

I'm all over the place with my sewing activities and projects.  I continue to add projects to the ole to make list. Occassionally, shuffling them around based on my current level of interest or excitement.  I'm ordering and buying fabric from multiple places.  I received a box from Mood with this lovely faux fur in it.  I haven't decided on what jacket/coat to make.

I have a mound of muslin garments cut, ready to sew up and fit.

My pattern collection has grown tremendously over the past few months.  I poured the newly purchased patterns over the dining table.  It looked like an explosion of patterns.Below is only a hand full that I started to trim.  And on top of that, I have a big shopping bag full of projects cut and stored in separate "Vogue" plastic bags.

So.., I will continue to "multi-task" the ole sewing projects and post as soon as I have something note worthy.  Expect to see more "Notes on a Pattern" even though I've only made one of the patterns of interest.

On Saturday, I'm attending a workshop taught by Rhonda Buss and Susan Khalje.  I'm so excited and can't wait to learn from the pros.

What about you?  Are you multi-tasking sewing projects?  Or do you work on them one at a time?


Happy Sewing!
Cennetta

To Muslin or Not To Muslin - Fitting New Look 6067

To Muslin or Not to Muslin. That is the question...,

While working on a muslin fitting for a client who sewed, she said to me, "When I sewed for people I never made muslins. I just went by the measurements." My reply, "Oh no, I have to make a muslin to get the fitting right.  I'm afraid not to."


There are great benefits to making a muslin first especially when the garment is for someone other than yourself.  


better fitting of the garment
helps avoid re-dos of garment
Saves money and time on fitting mistakes made

Now as for myself and DD, I don't always make a muslin.   Our basic adjustments have been pretty much worked out using the big four patterns. I have a few patterns that I use as slopers that help make adjustment easier on new patterns.  As a safety precaution, I cut one inch  side seam allowances.  This adjustment gives me a little more room to make changes if needed.

My biggest challenge is fitting my torso due to my fuller bust and prominent should blades.  Both changes are made in the same reign of my upper body front and back respectively.  But when it comes to the upper chest, neck, length of shoulder (from neck to ball of my arm) and my waist, there are almost no change needed from the pattern size 14.

One of my current projects is New Look 6067. Cute dress with pleating at the center front just below the bust area.  This pattern has no bust or waist darts.  My initial reaction was cute but I'll take a pass.  My second thought, but I like it.  I'll give it a try anyway.

Challenge:  Full bust adjustment in the absence of a waist and bust dart (woven fabric).


So this project required me to make a muslin to test my solution for a FBA adjustment. 

First the pattern:  I slashed the pattern in the center of each pleat pivoting a few inches away from the armhole.  Each slashed is spread increasing with width of the pleats and the bust area.  Total amount of spread in the bust area is about 1 1/4 inch.

My typical prominent shoulder blade and swayback adjustments are shown below.

Second the muslin:  Sorry it's on Rochelle and not me.  But you'll get the idea of how it will fit.  It looks like there is too much fabric around the armhole and side area.  It's just that way on Rochelle.  It fits better on me.  When I tried on the muslin, I noticed the waist was a little high.  I will add about an inch to the length of the bodice to correct that.

I hope this information is helpful.  Now my question to you:  Do you make a muslin?  If not, what's your process for getting the right fit?

Happy Sewing!
C 

Fitting V8555 and V8594

Not much sewing going on this week. We are in the middle of our Unity Conference at church. So at most, I thinking about the fall wardrobe for myself and DD.

Last week, I was able to fit the bodice of two dresses for myself. One was supoosed to be my birthday dress (to wear Sunday). I don't think it's going to happen. But at least I was able to got most of the fitting done. Both are sheaths. A sheath that is very appealing to me and seems to be a good match for my body type.

Here are both back views of the muslin for both dresses. I cut V8555 at size 14 with a small adjust to the front bodice hoping to compensate for the bust area. It's still a little snug. There is a slight gap about three inches from the center back of the neckline. So further adjustment is needed. V8594 was cut at size 16 with no changes. As you can see there is a lot of move across the back. At the neckline I could increase the seam allowance for a better fit. Across the lower back I need a sway back adjustment. May be increase the side seam allowance a little bit.


































Now for the front. V8555 (too much information) omitted. But I can say it's a little too snug. (lol). V8594 gaps at the neckline and is too large through the bodice. However, the upper bodice need to be length to make the horizontal seam hit in the right place where the lower front bodice in joined.

Here are the adjustment made so far.

V8555 - Removed the gap by folding out the excess and rotating the difference to the dart. Increasing the shoulder, armhole and side.

V8555- Increasing the shoulder, armhole, and side. Previously cut to include a FBA. Will also add about 5/8" to the neckline for modesty.
V8555 - Increase width of the midriff.

V8594 - Here I added the length needed to the upper bodice. I didn't address the slight gap in the neckline. I think if I reduce the shoulder seam to a size 14 that will solve that problem. Also there needed to be a slight reduction along the armhole and side.
V8594 - Sway back adjustment. The neckline through the shoulder blade area needs to be adjustment as well.
There is still a little work needed on fitting the muslin. May be this weekend I'll have time to work on it. We will see.

Happy Sewing!
C

Patricia Underwood Hat V8440

Test driving Patricia Underwood hats. I started with view A of V8440. This is my wearable muslin originally made to wear on the return trip from the March Spa weekend. More details later.

Fall 2007 Collection for Me

I completed four of the six muslins for the dresses in my collection. The seventh dress is a UFO that I started in February. It is so difficult for me to narrow down the number of garments in my collection. I've decided to have several sub-sets of my collection. First up is the dress set. I'm in need of new dresses. I have selected seven styles to start: two knit and five woven. So far, three out of the four muslins will be made into actual dresses. The photos of the muslins aren't good. DD and I will have to redo them. I'll post the muslin with each finished dress. The idea behind completing several muslins is a tip from "Think Like a Designer": create all muslins, then begin to construct the actual garments. Stay tuned.