Coats in March!? Burda 6462 Boyfriend Coat

Yes, I decided to make coats in March!  Who does THAT?  After all the fuss, "When is Spring going to get here?  I'm tried of the cold."  After all the whining, I chose to sew two coats for my March sewing projects.  The thought didn't suddenly pop into my head.  These are two of the coats I planned to make in the fall 2018, but never got around to it.  So, better late than later, chuckle, chuckle..,

Spring might a better time to make coats.  When fall rolls around, all I'll have to do is reach in the closet and pick one.  I cut out both coats at the same time, using Burda 6462.  I started the construction of this one first.  Once I had the body of it assembled, I started on the second one.  That post will following this one.

I bought this pattern January 2018, in preparation for making at least one coat in the fall.  My eye was drawn to view A.  I love long, sweeping coats.  This one was a bit over-sized and I'd hoped to by-pass the all full bust adjustment process.  But in retrospect it would have fit better in the chest area if I had.  And I could have gone down a size.  There is a lot of style ease throughout the body of the coat.  In some ways this is very good, especially in my neck of the woods.  Plenty of room to add layers.  Secondly, it is a great example of a boyfriend coat.

Today, the sun was super bright (Temps in the 40's).  So bright that many of the photos were washed out making the actual color of the coat appear to be muted.  When, in fact, the color of the fabric is a dark green with some dark gray under tones.  It also has little white specks in it.

The Burda Style 6462 description is vague as usual.  It simply states AB: normal welt, semi-fitted.  That's it!   The style is NOT that simple.  The coats are lined, over-sized with notched collar.  Collar and sleeve variations.  Patched pocket or welt pockets.  View A is belted with a detachable collar.  This is a better description.

More details to come later in the review.

The pattern includes sizes: 8-20.  I used 16 with a few modifications.

My coats do look similar to the ones pictured on the envelope.  This view A pictured on the model, looks like it could be slightly longer in the back, but the drawing does not indicate that.  Both modeled coats do show a dropped in-set sleeves.  So I think the pictures are pretty much how my coats turned out.

Burda's instructions are not the best.  They do not give enough information.  This was not a challenge for me.  Because I've had some experience with making coats.  Burda's instructions start with view B on how to assemble the welt pockets.  There is some skipping around.  I just followed my own way of constructing the body and the lining.

There were so many little details about the coat that I liked:

• I love it when the pattern includes separate pattern pieces for the upper and under collars.  It looks so much better when the upper collar rounds slightly under.  So you don't see where the two pieces meet, especially along the center back.
• There are two different patterns for the front and the front facings.  The inside center front looks so much nicer when the coat is open.  And the front isn't overly heavy due to the facing and the front being the same size.
• There is a shoulder dart just beneath the lapel.  Easy to adjust for the hallow area above the bust.
• The center back seam.  Always a plus for me. 
• Welt pockets.  This is something that I want to include in my 2019 sewing.  

  My dislikes:

• The thread loops for the belt.  I think carriers would have been better.  So that's one of my minor changes.
• There was almost no ease in the sleeve cap.  Maybe because the sleeves fall below the shoulder bone.  

My fabric is from my stash.  It's from FabricMart Fabrics.  I've had it about 5 years or so.  Again, the color is a dark green/dark gray under tones with white specks throughout.  It has a very nice, soft hand.  The pile has a velvet feel to it.  Love it.  The lining is from Mood.  It is called sycamore green twill viscose lining (#319547).  Another beautiful pieces of fabric.

I did not make my usual full bust or sway back adjustments.  I figured that this is an over-sized coat.  Who would notice?

• I did lengthen the sleeves by 1"
• Lengthen the coat by a few inches
• I didn't make the detachable collar of the knit cuffs.
• Instead of thread loops, I made carriers.
• For the upper body and hems, I interfaced them.
• Along the fold line of the lapel, I added stay tape.  (I should have taken a picture.)
• I followed, Diane method for hemming the coat.  This is something I wanted to do for the longest time.  She also has the template on her blog.  This one is not perfect, but I think I'll keep using this method.  It looks so nice.
• Added bound buttonholes instead of regular ones.  (Do more in 2019)

 

This is the hem of the second coat. I forgot to take a picture of the first one.

I like this pattern, but I don't think I will use it again.  I have dozens of coat patterns to try.  I do recommend it to others, though.

Next up is will be my review on my second coat, View B, Burda Style 6462.

Happy Sewing,
C

Notes on a Pattern - McCall 7753

Hi everyone,

This is another installment of Notes on a Pattern.  I hope these notes are helpful.  One thing I'd like to point out "again" is that I understand that we all are different shapes and sizes.  With that understanding, I also know that there are ladies that have a similar silhouette as I do.  The thing that motivates me to post my pattern adjustments is it may help someone with their own fit adjustments like so many other sewists have helped me.  Anyway..,

We are three weeks into summer, and it is hot and sticky in the mid-west.  And before we know it, it will be fall again.  So I'm trying to get as much summer sewing done as possible.  For the most part, I'm concentrating my efforts on separates: skirts, tops, and pants.  Of course, I will include a few dresses too. ;-)

Right now, I'm working on fitting McCall 7753 (among other things).  At first I thought I'd take a pass on this one.  Simply because it does not have princess seams, which would make it easier for me to do the FBA.  I can count on having to do some form of FBA for any upper body garment.  Initially, I got tired just thinking about what the possible fitting changes would be.  But about two weeks ago, I decided it won't be too bad.  So I purchased the pattern at a June JoAnn's pattern sale.

I could see myself wearing views A and B.

Looking at the front and back pattern pieces first, I made on the front a FBA.  I'm always skeptical about huge bust darts.  I hate that weird dimpling affect.  One option is to make two bust darts on each side, and the other options is to do the "Y" technique that extends the spread into the upper chest area.  Doing the later produces a smaller bust dart in my opinion.  After I made the FBA on both sides I moved the darts down about an inch and rotated them.  This adjustment created a lot of width across the lower bodice that I don't need.  So finally, I added waist darts.

For the back, I made a prominent shoulder blade adjustment.  To keep the back pattern balanced added the same width on the right side.  For the left side, I'll add a small shoulder dart and for the left side I'll ease in the access as needed.  Finally, I added waist darts.

Here are the pattern front and back after the adjustments.  Plus you can see markings indicating that I need to raise the top edge of the front about an inch.

The back will not have a horizontal seam.  I was running out of muslin.

Next Step - Make a Muslin

I sewed the muslin together.  As I suspected, there is slight gapping in the neckline, which can be eased.  I need to move the front waist darts over towards the center a bit.  And raise the armhole area of the left side.  I think these additional adjustments will complete the necessary changes for the front and back.

Now, I can make the adjustments on the front and back facings; then check the fit of the collar to make sure it's falls at the appropriate place on the neckline.  The construction is not difficult or confusing.  So, after these last few tweaks, I'll be ready to cut into my fashion fabric.

Happy Sewing!

C

Vintage McCall's Bomber Jacket M7203 and Vogue Jogging Pants V8909

One of the things that I love to do sometimes is mix and match patterns.  In this case, I used the bomber jacket of a vintage McCall's pattern V7203 and Vogue 8909 jogging pants.

I first planned to make the bomber jacket about a year and half ago, but I never got around to it until now.  Sure, I purchased McCall's bomber jacket from last year, but I liked this one better.  The vintage pattern has two options for making the collar, waistband, and wristbands: one for ribbed knit and the other the same fashion fabric as the jacket (collar and wristband cut on the bias - the waistband with rows of elastic inserted between channel stitches.)

Here are my reviews for the McCall 7203 bomber jacket and the Vogue 8909 jogging pants:

McCall 7203 Bomber Jacket

Pattern Description: Jacket has separating zipper and long sleeves with elasticize waistband, cuffs and neckband. 

Pattern Sizing:  6-16; My pattern was size 16, copyright 1980.  Only one size per envelope during that time.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes it did. 

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes the instructions were easy to follow.  When I opened the envelope to review them, I had to chuckle.  This pattern is almost 36 years old.  The guide sheet has colored illustrations.  Unlike the guide sheets on today.  The blue indicates the right side of the fabric.  The pattern pieces are also different, having large print and numbers to indicate notches and layout instructions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the option of having the entire jacket had in the fashion fabric and the instructions on how to do so.  Also, bomber jackets are on trend.  No real dislikes.

Fabric Used:  I purchased this lovely faux ultra suede from JoAnn's.  The chestnut or cinnamon color is also on trend.  This warm color is perfect for my skin tone.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I didn't make any changes.  The pattern is a size 16.  So I thought it should be okay across the bust and shoulder areas. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, I want to sew it again, but in a mesh or lacy fabric.  I noticed some pull at the neck area.  So I will address that before I do so.  And, I think I will add a few inches more to the length of the waistband elastic as it pull a little more than I'd like it to.  I do recommend the construction technique to other.  You should be able to use a more recent pattern to get the same results by cutting the fabric for the collar and wristband on the bias; also by adding the elastic to the waistband with channel stitches.

I really enjoyed making this jacket.

Vogue 8909 Jogging Pants

Pattern Description: Fitted (below waist) pants have elastic waistband and purchased ribbon drawstring, yoke back, side-front seams, no side seams, and side-front pockets. A, B: Elasticized leg bands. B, C: Stitched hems.  I had view B lengthening the pant leg by a few inches.

Pattern Sizing:  4-26; I used size 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, they did except I eliminated the draw string and only did two rows of elastic instead of three.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Nothing difficult about them.  Simple.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the back yoke, pocket placement, mock fly, and front/side seaming.  My only dislike was the length as shown on the model.  I like my pant a little longer.  In this case I over compensated by a inch or so. Next time I won't add as much length to them.

Fabric Used: I used a lovely faux ultra suede from JoAnn's.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  The only changes to the pants were: eliminated the draw string, only inserted two rows of elastic instead of three, and lengthen the pant leg.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, and yes.  This will be my go to jogging pant pattern.

So there you have it.  My new bomber jacket and jogging pants outfit.   They can be worn together or with other coordinates.

Happy Sewing!
C