Notes on a Pattern - New Look NL6013 Jacket

New Look 6013

It's time for another "Notes on a Pattern".  I spent last Saturday afternoon/evening working on my first jacket of 2020.  My initial pattern adjustments were made late 2019, and I cut the jacket out the first week of January 2020.  So on Saturday everything was ready to sew.

I became interested in making this jacket last summer when I saw a few projects posted on Instagram.  I've wanted a shawl collar, princess seam jacket for a while.  Jackets are something that I'm lacking in my wardrobe.  This one is a good start to filling the gap.

So, let me start with some basic information about the style of the jacket and pattern information.  This jacket is part of a New Look wardrobe pattern (NL6013).  It is to make an unlined with princess seams, pleated sleeve caps, and a shawl collar.  The closure is one loop at the base of the collar.  It is available in sizes 4 to 16.  I used size 16 with modifications.



The instructions are typical, easy to follow, and no points of confusion that I could see.  My jacket does look like the drawing. But I made a lot of changes to satisfy my own personal taste for construction and sewing techniques.

First, allow me to start with the initial adjustments.  I include this information a lot.  The reason is some of you may need to make similar adjustments and my changes may be helpful to you.    These pattern adjustments are typically the initial adjustments.  Then as I sew, I continue to fit as needed. BTW - I didn't make a muslin. 

So, I begin with some tissue pattern fitting it assess how much more or less circumstance space I'll need.  And to see if the jacket is the right length for me.  Below are two photos with my basic adjustments:

 

• FBA 
• Tucks on the front jacket and the collar at the fullest of the bust.  It helps eliminate gapping along the collar opening.
• Swayback adjustment.  Both back patterns are adjusted.  
• Slight Prominent shoulder blade adjustment. Not shown in the pattern adjustment here.  Sorry.
• Lengthen the entire jacket by 2".  It just needed to be a little longer for me.
• Not shown.  I lengthen the sleeves by 1.5"

Once I put the body of the jacket together, I continued to fit.  My biggest issue was at the upper and fullest of the bust area.  There was way too much fabric throughout that area.  I tried several times to eliminate the extra with little success.  It wasn't until I ripped out the seam from the upper bust to just below the bust area was I able to get a good fit.  Wish I had done that in the first place.  I literally pinned out the excess with the jacket on one side at a time. Then, I basted the seam to check if the fit was right.  BINGO!  It's a fit!  The other area of  change was the lower back and lower side seam areas.  These changes didn't take much time to adjustment as I often make these changes after the swayback adjustment.

Now onto my other preferred changes for jacket sewing. 

•  First, lining this style of jacket is a preference.  Secondly, my fabrics dictated the need for a lining.  It's loosely woven and soft.  The lining adds support and stability.  With the lining, the jacket guides on.  Plus, quite a bit of time and effort goes into a well made garment; it's good to make it last.

• Interfacing the hemlines (not all are shown here), upper back area, and adding sleeve heads for support and stability.

• Welt pockets.  I change them from mock to real welt pockets.

My fabric is a medium weight tweed wool blend.  That was great to work with.  It's from Mood.  In the online descriptive information, it indicates that it is pre-shrunk.  But I did stream it using the iron on highest steam setting as an added precaution.

I was well pleased once I completed all of the fit adjustments and construction changes. My after thoughts were: 

• I should have made a muslin.  I spent a lot of time tweaking the fit.
• Hurry, transfer the changes to the tissue pattern, but leave some room for varied fabric weaves and textures.  Because a tightly woven fabric may require a little more width across the bust and upper back. 
• My pockets look nice, but the welt could have been an inch longer.

This is the end of this installment of "Notes on a Pattern".  I hope to show you my finished jacket soon.  It needs a hem and a button sewn on.  So, I hope this posts has some helpful information or at least encourage someone to sew a jacket.  It's a great feeling of accomplishment when you are able to complete a wearable, likeable jacket.  I recommend this jacket pattern.  It's cute. ;-)

Happy Sewing!
C

 

Burda Style Boyfriend Coat - Coats in March Part II

Coat number two.  This coat is so for right now.

I'm batting a 100 with my selecting fabrics from Mood.  I've had nothing but success and happiness when I select a textiles and other goodies from Mood.  My coat is made of Mood's Infinity Black and Multi-Color Gray/Black Abstract.  I purchased this about two years ago, but was undecided about what kind of coat to make.  I chose this fabric because of it's unique texture and weave.  I love combining classic styles with interesting fabrics. This one has a lot of body.  It's a looser ropy weave with a slightly rough hand.  When cut, it unravels like a jacquard.  So you need to finish the edges or sew it up quick.  It presses easy and is easy to mold into shape.  If you are so inspired to make a coat, here is a link to some gorgeousness.

The upper collar of my coat is Mood's Faux Black Bear Fur (#312623).  Sorry it's no longer in stock.  But come fall you may be able to see it again at the online store.  It's thick, soft and shiny.  It feels wonderful against my skin.  Here is a link to a variety of Faux Fur. There is so many styles and choices to choose from.

To cut the faux fur, I used a single edge razor blade instead of scissors.  First, I started by trace the pattern onto the wrong side of the fur with tailor chalk.  Then I used the razor to cut out the upper collar.  This method reduces the amount of cut fur.  After sewing the upper and under collars together, I used a straight pin to pick out the fur caught in the stitches.

The lining is Canary/Rose iridescent twill lining.  (#FN26445).  You can't go wrong with Mood's twill lining.  I order it all the time to line coats, dresses, skirts.  You name it.

This is the second coat that I made using Burda Style 6462.  You can find some of the basic pattern details here on my blog.

for this view, I only made a few minor changes:

• Lengthen the sleeves 1"
• Lengthen the coat by a few 1"
• I used Diane's hemming technique from her YouTube tutorial

This pattern is perfect for that desired boyfriend coat that you've been wanting to make.  One of the things that drew me to this pattern was the welt pockets and another opportunity to practice making them.

For the buttonholes, I did two applications per buttonhole to help reduce the chance of fraying.  Then I generously applied Fray Check allowing it to dry over night before cutting the buttonholes open.  It worked like a charm.

I'm going to get a lot of wear out of this beauty.  Starting this spring! ;-)

Happy Sewing!
C

Coats in March!? Burda 6462 Boyfriend Coat

Yes, I decided to make coats in March!  Who does THAT?  After all the fuss, "When is Spring going to get here?  I'm tried of the cold."  After all the whining, I chose to sew two coats for my March sewing projects.  The thought didn't suddenly pop into my head.  These are two of the coats I planned to make in the fall 2018, but never got around to it.  So, better late than later, chuckle, chuckle..,

Spring might a better time to make coats.  When fall rolls around, all I'll have to do is reach in the closet and pick one.  I cut out both coats at the same time, using Burda 6462.  I started the construction of this one first.  Once I had the body of it assembled, I started on the second one.  That post will following this one.

I bought this pattern January 2018, in preparation for making at least one coat in the fall.  My eye was drawn to view A.  I love long, sweeping coats.  This one was a bit over-sized and I'd hoped to by-pass the all full bust adjustment process.  But in retrospect it would have fit better in the chest area if I had.  And I could have gone down a size.  There is a lot of style ease throughout the body of the coat.  In some ways this is very good, especially in my neck of the woods.  Plenty of room to add layers.  Secondly, it is a great example of a boyfriend coat.

Today, the sun was super bright (Temps in the 40's).  So bright that many of the photos were washed out making the actual color of the coat appear to be muted.  When, in fact, the color of the fabric is a dark green with some dark gray under tones.  It also has little white specks in it.

The Burda Style 6462 description is vague as usual.  It simply states AB: normal welt, semi-fitted.  That's it!   The style is NOT that simple.  The coats are lined, over-sized with notched collar.  Collar and sleeve variations.  Patched pocket or welt pockets.  View A is belted with a detachable collar.  This is a better description.

More details to come later in the review.

The pattern includes sizes: 8-20.  I used 16 with a few modifications.

My coats do look similar to the ones pictured on the envelope.  This view A pictured on the model, looks like it could be slightly longer in the back, but the drawing does not indicate that.  Both modeled coats do show a dropped in-set sleeves.  So I think the pictures are pretty much how my coats turned out.

Burda's instructions are not the best.  They do not give enough information.  This was not a challenge for me.  Because I've had some experience with making coats.  Burda's instructions start with view B on how to assemble the welt pockets.  There is some skipping around.  I just followed my own way of constructing the body and the lining.

There were so many little details about the coat that I liked:

• I love it when the pattern includes separate pattern pieces for the upper and under collars.  It looks so much better when the upper collar rounds slightly under.  So you don't see where the two pieces meet, especially along the center back.
• There are two different patterns for the front and the front facings.  The inside center front looks so much nicer when the coat is open.  And the front isn't overly heavy due to the facing and the front being the same size.
• There is a shoulder dart just beneath the lapel.  Easy to adjust for the hallow area above the bust.
• The center back seam.  Always a plus for me. 
• Welt pockets.  This is something that I want to include in my 2019 sewing.  

  My dislikes:

• The thread loops for the belt.  I think carriers would have been better.  So that's one of my minor changes.
• There was almost no ease in the sleeve cap.  Maybe because the sleeves fall below the shoulder bone.  

My fabric is from my stash.  It's from FabricMart Fabrics.  I've had it about 5 years or so.  Again, the color is a dark green/dark gray under tones with white specks throughout.  It has a very nice, soft hand.  The pile has a velvet feel to it.  Love it.  The lining is from Mood.  It is called sycamore green twill viscose lining (#319547).  Another beautiful pieces of fabric.

I did not make my usual full bust or sway back adjustments.  I figured that this is an over-sized coat.  Who would notice?

• I did lengthen the sleeves by 1"
• Lengthen the coat by a few inches
• I didn't make the detachable collar of the knit cuffs.
• Instead of thread loops, I made carriers.
• For the upper body and hems, I interfaced them.
• Along the fold line of the lapel, I added stay tape.  (I should have taken a picture.)
• I followed, Diane method for hemming the coat.  This is something I wanted to do for the longest time.  She also has the template on her blog.  This one is not perfect, but I think I'll keep using this method.  It looks so nice.
• Added bound buttonholes instead of regular ones.  (Do more in 2019)

 

This is the hem of the second coat. I forgot to take a picture of the first one.

I like this pattern, but I don't think I will use it again.  I have dozens of coat patterns to try.  I do recommend it to others, though.

Next up is will be my review on my second coat, View B, Burda Style 6462.

Happy Sewing,
C