Friday, August 9, 2013
Getting Ready for Fall - Transition with Vogue 1262
This August feels like fall in Chicago, and it is the perfect time to start working on my fall wardrobe plans. Today's review is on Vogue 1262, another Sandra Betzina pattern. It's been on my list since last September, and last weekend I spent most of Saturday working it.
I had my color palette analyzed last year. This blue is one of the color that works well with my skin color. It is also one of the Pantone colors for Fall 2013.
This jacket is described as unlined, loose fitting jacket with three-quarter length sleeves, self-faced sleeve bands (side forms underarm), flat felled seams, double welt pockets, optional button and loop closure. Self-faced lower edges. Yes, it is all of that. Those details are what I like most about this jacket.
The available sizes are from A(32) to J(55). I used size E(40 1/2). I thought I'd try making this without doing a FBA.
My jacket looks like the one worn by the model on the front of the envelope. But the drawing on the back shows the center front edge as a straight line. It's not. It curves and swings open below the bust. After I finished it (poo poo on me), I noticed the pockets are a little on the high side.
The instructions were great; very easy to follow. I did deviate from them a few times but my changes didn't change the look of the jacket.
There are several things that I like about the jacket. For starters, I liked the shape of the front armholes, the 3/4 length sleeves and how the jacket falls open below the bust. But the thing that I like most about it is the double welt pockets. The double welts were an opportunity for me to try another construction method for welt pockets.
At the Sandra Betzina retreat I had an opportunity to try on test garments of various sizes. When I tried on the recommended size for my upper body measurements, the garments fit my neck, shoulder, arm and bust areas. No FBA required. The adjustments needed were below the bust and the length of the sleeves.
I used a dark royal/black crepe poly/rayon reversible fabric is from the FabricMart. It's heavy enough to double as light weight coat fabric, perfect for fall. This weight of fabric was not on the recommended fabric list. But I wanted something a little beefier for the fall. I pre-washed and dried the fabric. But I will have it dry cleaned as needed.
I didn't make any pattern alterations. It wasn't overly loose fitting, so I didn't make any alterations below the bust. The changes were in some of the construction methods. There are a lot of flat felled seams in this jacket. I didn't make any. Because of my fabric's weight and fiber content, it was difficult to get crisp, flat felled seams. Polyester doesn't roll and press as easily as natural fiber fabrics. Instead, I elected to trim one seam allowances and press the other over it. Then top-stitch it in place. So on the outside it looks flat felled, which is good enough for me. I didn't want to finish the lower back section as instructed (48). Instead, I attached the lower section in verse (46). Then finished it on the inside. In anchoring the facing, I tacked it down at the shoulder seams and at the top of the pockets.
Not certain that I will sew it again for myself. I have so many jackets patterns to try. But I do recommend it to others who are interested in trying something interesting. I'm really pleased with my new jacket.
The instructions and style are great. The welt pockets turned out pretty good. I will certainly use this method again. Now that it is finished and ready to wear, it reminds me of those cocoon coats. All photos on Flickr.
That's all for now! Have a great weekend!
PS - It took forever to get a few decent pictures. I still wasn't completely satisfied, but at least you can see the jacket on me.