Friday, January 17, 2014
Full Bust Adjustment and Dart Rotation - Tutorial
I wondered if it was worthwhile to post an entry on full bust adjustment (FBA) and dart rotation. The internet has tons of guides for FBA. But, I haven't seen many FBA and dart rotation tutorials. At the Palmer/Pletsch retreat, Marta Alto taught a segment on dart rotation and how it could be used as a style element as well adding form and shape to a garment.
Although, I tried dart rotation in the past, her lesson helped build my confidence to try new ways to use this technique when making a FBA. It is most challenging to make a FBA on a one piece front bodice. Sometimes the dart is too large and it is difficult to form without dimpling or sharp points.
Today I'd like to share some examples of how I made a FBA combined with dart rotation. My first illustration is a simple one. It is Simplicity 2594-C, top with pleats below the yoke.
3. To close the dart, slash the second leg of the "Y" to open the end at the second pleat. Next close the dart and tape it together. You may need to cut/tear the added tissue to fully rotate the dart into the
5. No bust darts on top pictured below.
Next example is FBA dart rotation on Vogue 1127. A gathered neckline blouse with bow tie. This was fitted at the Palmer/Pletch workshop in 2012.
2. Next, slash the neckline to rotate the dart. Now tape the slash made for the bust together.
3. Fill in the slash at the neckline with tissue.
4. Rotated dart becomes part of the gathered neckline. I haven't made this one yet. Soon...
And my final example, is Vogue 1220. This example does not include all of the steps for making the FBA. I think you'll understand how to make the FBA and rotate the dart to the shoulder pleats.
1. Remove the side back bodice from the front bodice and set it aside until the FBA and the rotation are complete.
2. Follow the steps for making a standard FBA and rotate the dart to the pleated area of the bodice. Tape the slash for the bust dart together and tape the side back bodice in place.
3. Redraw the pleats so they are evenly distributed at the joining edge. That's it.