I changed the construction of the patch pocket for my Simplicity S8844 jacket, view A. The original pocket is unlined, but I chose to line them instead. Also, I didn't want to try to match the plaid. So I cut them on the bias.
Here are the steps that I used to make the plaid on plaid patch pocket.
I interfaced them to help maintain the shape.. Using the pocket pattern I cut the lining 1.25" shorter than the pocket.
Next, I stitched the upper edge of the pocket to the lining leaving an opening. Pressed the seam allowance forwards the lining.
I Sewed the lining to the pocket starting at the top, making sure the seam allowance is sewn 5/8" all the way around. Note- For curved pockets, I sew one side halfway around, then flip it to sew the other side sewing slightly passed the end of the previous stitch.
Next, I trimmed the seam allowance at the curve and notched the edge. Then, I turned the pocket to the right side, using a pointer creaser to make sure the pocket is completely turned out. While pressing I slightly rolled the pocket to the inside to help reduce the possibility of the lining showing on the outside.
Next I stitched the opening closed. Pressed again. Pinned the pocket in place.
Next step, I usually base it in place and then machine sew. That's it.
Happy Sewing!
C
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