Simplicity S8844 Mad About Plaid

This plaid blazer is part of my Brown/Cream Wardrobe Capsule.  (I know it probably seems like I'm all over the place.  But there is a method to my madness. Tee Hee.) Anyway, I've been wanted to sew more plaids this year.  And I was happy to be gifted this stretch plaid suiting from Minerva Fabrics.  When I first selected this fabric, I really didn't know which jacket I would make.  I wanted to choose a pattern that would complement the plaid.  Simplicity S8844 was one of three jackets that I'd plan to make before the end of the year.  

The pattern is described as Misses'/Miss petite unlined blazer with front variations with individual pattern pieces for B, C, D, and DD cup sizes.  It comes in sizes 6 through 24.

The princess seams and the individual cup sizes are what sold me.  My hoped the FBA pattern piece would only need tweaking.  So I used size 16, view A, with still a lot of modifications.  The changes included fit, construction, and design.

For the most part my jacket looked liked the one on the envelope.  The modelled jacket looks a little to full in the upper chest area though.  The instructions were typical.  I didn't see anything difficult in them.  Half of them I didn't follow because I changed a lot of the construction steps and techniques to suit my own preferences.

There were a few things that I like about it and a few things I didn't care for.  I'll start with the likes:

• The separate pattern pieces for the cup sizes.  I wanted to spend less time adjusting the pattern. 
• Princess seams.  Easier to adjustment
• Gathered sleeve cap
• Separate pattern pieces for the upper and lower collar
• Separate pattern pieces for the front and front facing

Dislikes:

• Length of the shoulder seam.  I don't under stand why the pattern company makes them so long.  I removed about 1.75" from the end.
• "Unlined" blazer.
• One piece sleeve.  I prefer a two piece sleeve

My fabric choice is a stretch suiting from Minerva Fabrics.  It has a slightly coarse hand.  It sews and presses beautifully.  The plaid is Glenn plaid, I think.  It's uneven.  The matching of the plaid was a bit of a challenge.  I came close with the matching; it's not perfect but wearable. For the lining, I used an anti-static cream colored lining from Vogue Fabrics.  Nothing fancy.  I just pulled it from my stash.

I didn't have to make my usual FBA.  I was able to tweak the DD pattern to fit.  Then I made my usual swayback, prominent shoulder blades, and lengthening the sleeves. 

My other changes were more construction and style preference changes.  They are:

• Lined the entire jacket
• I made my own shoulder pads.  There was a hallow area between the upper chest and armpit area.  So I made them larger than the average pad.
• I added hem facings to the sleeve.  This change was because I didn't add enough length to the sleeve.  This worked out fine.
• Cut the pockets of the bias.  I love the weight of the interfaced patch pocket.  And I love the bias cut of them. It plays of the plain on the front of the jacket adding a little more interest to the style.
• I sewed on the pocket after the jacket was assembled.

Note:  I need to move the button about 1/2" up.  The length of the front edge are the same.  I just need to move the button.  I noticed it after I saw the pictures.

I want to make this again soon.  But before that happens, I want to make a pair of pants.  I had enough fabric left.  So hopefully, I will share that project soon.  They are cut and ready to sew.

I recommend this pattern to all level sewists.  Make a muslin first.  I had to make two ;-)  It's important to test before you cut into your fashion fabric. 

Overall, I happy with how this jacket turned out.  It will be in high rotation.  The color looks great with red, and of course, brown.

  

This blazer is not difficult to sew, but there may be some adjustments needed.  Adding a lining was relatively easy to do.  I just used the jacket pattern pieces to do so.  The back facing looks much nicer with the entire jacket lined.

Until next time, happy sewing!

C

Notes on a Pattern - Vogue 1247 Top

Vogue 1247 Top is very popular in the sewing community.  It is no surprise that hundreds of imagines of it are posted online in a variety of colors and textiles.  I'm sure my sewing experience is not very different from other sewists. 

I love sewing Vogue patterns.  There is almost always something interesting in the construction process.  This top has all french seams except for the neckband, sleeve band, and the hem.  French seams are not difficult to make.  But they do take a little more time than the average seaming.  Because for each section sewn there is two seams instead of one.  To make them effectively, you may need to trim the seam then press as you go.  The pressing is something that we, sewists, should do anyway.   This process helps to reinforce some basic sewing practices.  I love how the inside of this top looks with all french seams, no serging.

The entire construction process was great.  It took me about 2.5 hours to complete it all except for the hem.  This afternoon I finished that in a matter of minutes.  I did it the old school way.  First step, press the desired hem; second step turn and pin; finally sew the hem in place.  Perfect hemming.

Part of the lower half of the top is cut on the bias which helps reduced uneven turning of the clothe.  My fabric also helped.  Cotton voile with a smooth, semi-crisp hand.  It's very easy to work with.  If I make it again, I may choose a silky fabric. 

On another note..,

Recently, I purchased a set of specialized feet. There is one that can produced the same hem.  But instinctively, I just follow the method that I've used for years. 

I did make some minor adjustments to the tissue pattern before cutting into my fashion fabric.  I didn't like the wide neckline.  I already have broad shoulder.   So I narrowed the neckline by raising the back about an inch and the front about the same.  I did not make a FBA.  This top is super loose.   At the front neckline a small tuck is needed to help reduce any gapping that may occur.  Finally, I did a small swayback tuck across the lower back.  I was glad it already had a center back seam.  If I make it again, I will lengthen the top by a few inches. 

The construction of the sleeve band, I sewed it on with the right facing the wrong side of the top.  Then fold it to the right side and stitched.  No other changes made.

That's it on the notes for this top.  I hope to post pictures of me wearing the top soon.  As for the skirt, I do like it and hope to make it soon.  

Stay tuned and happy sewing!

C